Project - Auction Non-Run/Drive 2000 LX 470 (1 Viewer)

[GOLIGHTLY]

Hi there! I drive a 200 and have enjoyed the hell out of these forums. Amazing wealth of information and good folks, so wanted to introduce myself and start documentation of (one of) my mid-pandemic crisis project(s).

Picking up a one-owner, never-left-Texas, non-running/driving 2000 LX 470 at some point this coming week, purchased at auction here in Houston. I'm slated to move to CO in June of this coming year, so looking to keep the 2010 LX 570 in the nice shape its in during winters/true backcountry bashing. As evidenced by a shaky trailer build that's currently ongoing, I enjoy a good project and figured this one checks a lot of boxes.

I've been chewing through a lot of "Failure to start" threads on here, but figured see if anyone has any specific diagnostic advice for the non-Run/Drive "issue"? Will cross fingers that it's an ignition/starter contacts/battery issue, but going to plan for catastrophe.

Eventual build goals are pretty standard as far as a lot of folks on here are concerned. Steel bumpers front and rear, some type of undercoating, and swapping the AHC for something lower maintenance are high priority items.

Posting a photo from auction below in case the original owner happens to be on here (worth a shot). Would love to talk shop and look forward to giving your rig a few extra miles of life if I can. Figure I'll document here as the project unfolds. Looking forward to it.

Thanks all!

 

[Mauser]

Congrats on the new project. If you need help with the immobilizer or ecu let me know.

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

Congrats on the new project. If you need help with the immobilizer or ecu let me know.

Thanks a lot for the offer. Odds are pretty good that I'll be back your way!

 

[gregnash]

Get yourself on the Techstream thread, download it and install on a laptop and get an appropriate cable and start there. Should be able to tell you any existing codes that may have been thrown. The early year trucks have the ECU fuse issue where the fuse block in the engine bay needs replace because of a bad connection for the ECU fuse/relay. ChowCares on YT has a video on how he replaced. So that could be a good place to look at first.

But more than anything the code reader/techstream will tell you codes that were thrown with good indication of where to start.

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

Get yourself on the Techstream thread, download it and install on a laptop and get an appropriate cable and start there. Should be able to tell you any existing codes that may have been thrown. The early year trucks have the ECU fuse issue where the fuse block in the engine bay needs replace because of a bad connection for the ECU fuse/relay. ChowCares on YT has a video on how he replaced. So that could be a good place to look at first.

But more than anything the code reader/techstream will tell you codes that were thrown with good indication of where to start.

Thanks man. I've yet to do the research on how much more comprehensive the TechStream is, but I have a Carly OBD reader that has worked wonders for me with the 200 that should get me started alright. And thanks for the heads up on the fuse block. Got one on the way in case that's the issue. Seems from what I've read on here in other threads that it's not going to hurt to go ahead and replace it regardless? Thanks again!

 

[gregnash]

Thanks man. I've yet to do the research on how much more comprehensive the TechStream is, but I have a Carly OBD reader that has worked wonders for me with the 200 that should get me started alright. And thanks for the heads up on the fuse block. Got one on the way in case that's the issue. Seems from what I've read on here in other threads that it's not going to hurt to go ahead and replace it regardless? Thanks again!

With Techstream it will allow you to make modifications to certain things like when doors lock/unlock, windows, and other such "extra" especially on the new vehicles. The 2000 may not have a whole lot of customizations for that stuff but the BEST (in my opinion) feature of the Techstream software is the ability to program additional keys to your system as Master or Valet. When I got my truck I was given One master and one spare (neither unlocked/locked the doors) and when I had others cut, the locksmith had a hard time programming any more keys to the system. Ended up that my system (98) only allowed a max of 11 keys, of which all slots were full (with the 3 keys I had, one my own and two received on purchase) programmed. I was able to take one master, clear all slots and program MY KEYS to the system as masters to allow me to eventually add more down the road (if needed). That made it all the more worthwhile for me.

 

[ramangain]

I've been chewing through a lot of "Failure to start" threads on here, but figured see if anyone has any specific diagnostic advice for the non-Run/Drive "issue"? Will cross fingers that it's an ignition/starter contacts/battery issue, but going to plan for catastrophe.

Once you get codes and post exactly what happens when you try and crank the motor, folks here can (probably) quickly point you the the appropriate fix.

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

With Techstream it will allow you to make modifications to certain things like when doors lock/unlock, windows, and other such "extra" especially on the new vehicles. The 2000 may not have a whole lot of customizations for that stuff but the BEST (in my opinion) feature of the Techstream software is the ability to program additional keys to your system as Master or Valet. When I got my truck I was given One master and one spare (neither unlocked/locked the doors) and when I had others cut, the locksmith had a hard time programming any more keys to the system. Ended up that my system (98) only allowed a max of 11 keys, of which all slots were full (with the 3 keys I had, one my own and two received on purchase) programmed. I was able to take one master, clear all slots and program MY KEYS to the system as masters to allow me to eventually add more down the road (if needed). That made it all the more worthwhile for me.

Gotcha, thanks for the intel. Ya Carly has a couple coding capabilities in Beta, but they're definitely limited even for my 200. I imagine a full TechStream would be worthwhile here in the near future.

 

[neckbone]

Gotcha, thanks for the intel. Ya Carly has a couple coding capabilities in Beta, but they're definitely limited even for my 200. I imagine a full TechStream would be worthwhile here in the near future.

Considering if you already have an old laptop, the techstream is going to run you about $20-30, it’s well worth it.

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

Considering if you already have an old laptop, the techstream is going to run you about $20-30, it’s well worth it.

Damn... I thought it was like $300. I’m on it.

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

Well folks, can't say how thankful I am for this community... had a new battery and a fuse for the immobilizer waiting in the garage when I got home. Now an absurdly under-priced non-run/non-drive LX 470 is officially back up and running, drove fine for the 30 minutes I drove it (still a lot of baselining and diagnostic work to do to make sure it's not a polished turd, but couldn't be more stoked. Genuinely happy to keep one of these on the road.

The frame is SPOTLESS though. Like, less rust than my never-left-Texas 2010 LX 570. Unbelievable.

Things that DO need to be addressed (aside from baselining):

1- Highest priority and any input would be appreciated from folks familiar with 100's. Looks like a lot of oil deposited all over the drivers-right (starboard, passenger, whatever language you speak) side of the engine bay. Oil level and temp were fine over 40 minutes of light driving around the block, and level is spot-on on the dipstick before and after. I don't want to be ignorant and assume it's all good, so just wanted to see if folks here have any experience with ... I don't even know, headgaskets? This was supposed to be a more involved project, so with it already up and driving, hit me with your worst suspicion.

2- Would like to have some good tires on here. There are currently THREE brands on the car, and I cannot abide... that sh*ts just disrespectful.
3- Sunroof probably needs a new seal or something. Very minor leak.
4- Cracked dash. Will get that addressed locally.
5- Kind of want to re-upholster seats, though they appear to have already been recovered. They're in pretty good shape.
6- Rear wiper is sagging down off the glass. Front blades need replacing.
7- Radio antenna doesn't raise of lower.
8- Kind of want to wrap it in the metallic grey like the 2010, but I actually really like the colors in the off-white-ish paint that's on it.

8- Lastly, and most critically... He needs a cleaning and some love. Engine bay is pretty dirty, and parts of the interior needs some good going through.

A lot of little things I want to address, but super stoked on this. A little bummer that this wasn't going to be as much of a project as I was hoping for, but happy that the adventures can start early.

 

[gregnash]

1. Likely from the valve cover seals being blown out and leaking. Grab a replacement kit from Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters along with a new PCV valve and spark plug gaskets and you should be good to go there.
2. Tires are subjective to what you plan to do with the truck. Largest you will get on there stock (no lift) will be 285/75r16 (effectively 33s). Brand is all over the place, personally I have always had great luck with Coopers but current rig has Falken Wildpeak AT3W and honestly I do not have any gripes with them.
3. Could potentially be the drains are clogged. Look for the thread on cleaning the drains and see if it still leaks. If so then there are other threads on rehabbing the sunroof.
4. Yeah that one may be something harder to take care of, honestly the first I have seen/heard of a cracked dashboard but who knows.
5. If they are in good shape run them or maybe put some L-Seat or other covers over them. Couple threads floating around with info.
6. I found that front blades the Bosch ICON kit from Amazon (20A/B) have been awesome. The rear I am running a Costco Michelin special and it works OK. If the arm is sagging it could just need adjustment at the nut. Pull the arm off and reset.
7. This could be the mast is busted. Couple thread floating around, relatively easy fix and cheap.

Outside of that... start baselining it, figure out what the plans are for it and go from there. Seems like you got an awesome deal if it was just dead battery and immobilizer fuse. Def grab the OBDII scanner and pull any codes. If it still has OEM axles KEEP THOSE. There are rebuild kits and outer axle assemble still available from Mr. T and you won't find a better axle.

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

1. Likely from the valve cover seals being blown out and leaking. Grab a replacement kit from Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters along with a new PCV valve and spark plug gaskets and you should be good to go there.
2. Tires are subjective to what you plan to do with the truck. Largest you will get on there stock (no lift) will be 285/75r16 (effectively 33s). Brand is all over the place, personally I have always had great luck with Coopers but current rig has Falken Wildpeak AT3W and honestly I do not have any gripes with them.
3. Could potentially be the drains are clogged. Look for the thread on cleaning the drains and see if it still leaks. If so then there are other threads on rehabbing the sunroof.
4. Yeah that one may be something harder to take care of, honestly the first I have seen/heard of a cracked dashboard but who knows.
5. If they are in good shape run them or maybe put some L-Seat or other covers over them. Couple threads floating around with info.
6. I found that front blades the Bosch ICON kit from Amazon (20A/B) have been awesome. The rear I am running a Costco Michelin special and it works OK. If the arm is sagging it could just need adjustment at the nut. Pull the arm off and reset.
7. This could be the mast is busted. Couple thread floating around, relatively easy fix and cheap.

Outside of that... start baselining it, figure out what the plans are for it and go from there. Seems like you got an awesome deal if it was just dead battery and immobilizer fuse. Def grab the OBDII scanner and pull any codes. If it still has OEM axles KEEP THOSE. There are rebuild kits and outer axle assemble still available from Mr. T and you won't find a better axle.

Thanks a lot for taking the time to write this out man. I apologize in advance if I ever lean on you for more info down the road but appreciate your guidance here already. In particular, I’ll get on that first item here ASAP, as it’s most concerning to me.

Thank you and I’ll keep you posted.

 

[2001LC]

Nice find and welcome to the 100 section. I did about the same as you 5 or so years ago. Found a 01LX Golden Pearl w215K. I name her WhiteLady. Man she polished out nice.

Hard to say what oil on Bank 1 (left side / driver side). Could be spillage from adding oil. The 2000 has a rubber grommet that holds the PCV valve in the BK1 head cover. Those get hard and shrink. That can over time make an oil mess. Then as @gragnash suggested, the head cover leaks so many have. I know everyone is big on replacing the head cover gasket and spark plug tube seals. But I'm batting 100, on just re-torquing the head cover to spec, for me has always stop or prevent the leak

First think I'd do, is remove engine cover, #1 and 2 skid. Then start taking picture of any oily, greasy or wet spots. Hunt high and low. Once your sure you got it all, look again. Look up at head gasket form underneath, looking for signs of coolant.

Once your sure you got it all documented on film. Start cleaning. I can spend 40 hours just cleaning under carriage and engine bay. Inspect as you go. Get those oil wet spots spotless. Then as you drive, keep inspecting for re occurrence of oil or wet spots.


Real big deal is coolant system. Check the level in the radiator, after 8 hour cool down, front end higher than rear.

Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert

I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added...

forum.ih8mud.com

Check those spark plugs. You don't want one blowing out the head.

Ticking time bomb TICK TICK TICK: Spark plugs Alert Alert Alert!

TICK TICK TICK POP POP POP is a ticking time bomb, often mistaken as exhaust manifold crack or gasket leak leak. ALERT, ALERT, ALERT: Spark plugs are working themselves loose. "Walking Out" Then blowing out of head, taking their female threads of head with them! Very damaging! You think TICK...

forum.ih8mud.com

Have fun and take your time to enjoy the work.

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

Nice find and welcome to the 100 section. I did about the same as you 5 or so years ago. Found a 01LX Golden Pearl w215K. I name her WhiteLady. Man she polished out nice.

Hard to say what oil on Bank 1 (left side / driver side). Could be spillage from adding oil. The 2000 has a rubber grommet that holds the PCV valve in the BK1 head cover. Those get hard and shrink. That can over time make an oil mess. Then as @gragnash suggested, the head cover leaks so many have. I know everyone is big on replacing the head cover gasket and spark plug tube seals. But I'm batting 100, on just re-torquing the head cover to spec, for me has always stop or prevent the leak

First think I'd do, is remove engine cover, #1 and 2 skid. Then start taking picture of any oily, greasy or wet spots. Hunt high and low. Once your sure you got it all, look again. Look up at head gasket form underneath, looking for signs of coolant.

Once your sure you got it all documented on film. Start cleaning. I can spend 40 hours just cleaning under carriage and engine bay. Inspect as you go. Get those oil wet spots spotless. Then as you drive, keep inspecting for re occurrence of oil or wet spots.


Real big deal is coolant system. Check the level in the radiator, after 8 hour cool down, front end higher than rear.

Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert

I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added...

forum.ih8mud.com

Check those spark plugs. You don't want one blowing out the head.

Ticking time bomb TICK TICK TICK: Spark plugs Alert Alert Alert!

TICK TICK TICK POP POP POP is a ticking time bomb, often mistaken as exhaust manifold crack or gasket leak leak. ALERT, ALERT, ALERT: Spark plugs are working themselves loose. "Walking Out" Then blowing out of head, taking their female threads of head with them! Very damaging! You think TICK...

forum.ih8mud.com

Have fun and take your time to enjoy the work.

Awesome, thanks for your follow-up! Spark plugs are high on the list because I'm just past the second multiple of the 120K mile service interval, and can't validate whether or not that service was done. Good call on video though. I've been building a trailer and keeping notes via video because it's easier to make clear what I'm dealing with, so I like the idea of carrying that over to this.

Let the engine bay detailing begin! (YIKES)

 

[gregnash]

Awesome, thanks for your follow-up! Spark plugs are high on the list because I'm just past the second multiple of the 120K mile service interval, and can't validate whether or not that service was done. Good call on video though. I've been building a trailer and keeping notes via video because it's easier to make clear what I'm dealing with, so I like the idea of carrying that over to this.

Let the engine bay detailing begin! (YIKES)

Heed this mans advice like no other! He probably mumbles more in his sleep than the majority of us know.

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

Heed this mans advice like no other! He probably mumbles more in his sleep than the majority of us know.

Ha! Never had an interest in watching a man sleep before...

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

Heeding the advice of @2001LC (and by proxy, @gregnash ) I went ahead and did a cursory video documentation of it's current condition. I'm awful (truly, awful) being on video, wild monotone and almost certainly mis-identified some items (I'm learning, I'll get there). If you have 40 minutes of your life that you just really don't want to ever see again, I'm linking those below.

Project Build - Auction 2000 Lexus LX 470 - Interior and Exterior

Project Build - Auction 2000 Lexus LX 470 - Frame and Engine Bay

Struts are out but ordered, hence the factory-optional "Giant Yellow Level Used To Prop The Hood" kit.

After I made those I did a quick detail on the interior, and actually most of the algae/moss/"crud in the doorsill" lifted right up, so it's just a matter of going through with a fine-tooth comb and getting a little anal-retentive about all that. In the interest of spending some time with a very supportive girlfriend, I'll wait to start getting stuck into the engine bay until tomorrow. I suspect it will take a handful of hours, if your hand is gripping a couple buckets. Getting in touch with "Kurt" this evening. Thanks guys.

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

Things are coming along nicely with the “project”. Mostly just cleaning up gunk in the engine bay, detailing interior, and flushing fluids before I make a big parts order, just for peace of mind.

Question though: I’ve come across this fluid outlet and can’t find anything definite in any of the FSM diagrams (unless I’m missing something). It’s passenger-side in the engine bay, about halfway up the rear wall. It drips constantly, and I thought it was maybe a condensation outlet for AC or something, but haven’t really been driving enough for that. Will stop after a number of hours. I’d like to reroute it using a tube, so that it stops dripping on components below it, but only if I can confirm that it’s something benign.

More detailed updates coming soon.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

^^that’s your air conditioning evaporator drain. Yes you can buy an elbow fitting at Lowe’s and connect a hose so when the water drips it wont hit any metal part and avoid unwanted rust.