$80/liter transfer case oil

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Which transfer pump are you guys using?
I'm a big fan of dedicated pumps for each fluid. Which admittedly may be overkill.

For the transfer case and using the 75W Toyota tin cans, I have been just buying a simple hand pump and opening it with a can opener. Use hand pump for one maintenance cycle, then discard.

For the diffs, I've got a Motive Power fill (1735?) that works great! makes the refilling as easy as the draining. Dedicated for the differential weight oils as to not have issues with mixing lighter stuff.

I've got a mightyvac for brake fluids/bleeding that works great and another for aspirating (think MB style oil changes) and for other fluid draining jobs (usually oil).
 
Sorry I wasn't clear. Were those direct answers to questions you posed or just info listed on their site about the fluids?
No prob. My apologies as well.

I sent in a handful of questions through the customer service contact form on Blaupart's website. These were the direct responses from one of their techs/ customer service folks.
 
I have been using the 75W. Just because I asked about 75W-90 doesn't mean I have been using it. I was just wondering if anyone had neg. facts on using it.

The same mechanic"s" that said the 75w-90 was fine also said to be sure and change it every 30k. These are well educated folks.

My last vehicle I parted with had 375k on it and was and still is running perfect with no issues.
I worked in a packaging plant and it was amazing how many different products were filled with the same train car of oil.
Toyota 75w is $67 and the other brand is $19 x 2 = $100 difference every change.
 
Thanks @Clickws

I have been using the 75W. Just because I asked about 75W-90 doesn't mean I have been using it. I was just wondering if anyone had neg. facts on using it.

The same mechanic"s" that said the 75w-90 was fine also said to be sure and change it every 30k. These are well educated folks.

My last vehicle I parted with had 375k on it and was and still is running perfect with no issues.
I worked in a packaging plant and it was amazing how many different products were filled with the same train car of oil.
Toyota 75w is $67 and the other brand is $19 x 2 = $100 difference every change.

I'm not saying they don't know their stuff, I'm saying it's very likely they don't know the specific differences inside the case and why toyota made the change in spec. While they probably are right, it isn't them that's on the hook if they aren't.. difference between us and the general public they usually deal with being we expect multiple hundreds of thousands of miles out of our rigs, not just 1.

My extra $30 comment was comparing ravenol to generic 75w-90. Since it meets the toyota spec I consider their stuff an acceptable fluid for the later cases.

Personally even if it was $100 extra per change because ravenol didn't exist I'd spend it. We're talking fractions of a cent per mile over that 30k.
 
If I'm reading this thread accurately, many of you are running Ravenol 75W in your diff and transfer case with no issue?
 
If I'm reading this thread accurately, many of you are running Ravenol 75W in your diff and transfer case with no issue?
The 75w ravenol is just for the transfer case. I have been using it for 35,000 miles with excellent results. I use 75-90 redline in the front and rear diffs.
 
The 75w ravenol is just for the transfer case. I have been using it for 35,000 miles with excellent results. I use 75-90 redline in the front and rear diffs.
Same here, only Mobil 1 in the diffs.
 
Redline for both the Diffs and Transfer case is what I have been using - at proper specs for each (GL-4 for transfer case and GL-5 for Diffs)
 
Redline for both the Diffs and Transfer case is what I have been using - at proper specs for each (GL-4 for transfer case and GL-5 for Diffs)
When I switched to the ravenol 75w for thr t-case Redline hadn't released their 75w. I will probably go with the Redline at the next service internal. How has is been working for you and your T-case?
 
Redline oil .. Good No issues at all... it meets the Toyota Spec.
I am about to do it again this weekend, so can look at the oil.

I also exercise the transfer case at regular intervals as well to keep everything quiet.
 
I kinda forgot about this thread until I recently saw it again.

2008-2010 transfer cases use 75-90 gear oil. In 2010 sometime they switched some parts in the transfer case to brass. GL-4 and 5 gear oil typically has limited slip additives in it.

Brass and limited slip additives don’t get along. That’s the issue.

Will your t-case grenade if you run it? Doubt it. If you do a tear down will you find pitting on the brass component, yep.

One of the t-case I replaced that was cracked in half from a rock hit was easy to inspect… ‘cause it was cracked in half. There’s not a ton, but some brass goodies in there. Anyway, brass was pitted pretty good. Also, pitting from a lubricant and pitting from metal slamming metal is very different. I asked the guy what oil he used in his 2013 and he said 75-90.

Take that as you will. If it were my t-case and the owner’s manual said to use Toyota transfer case fluid. I’d at least make sure whatever was in there was not enhanced with limited slip additives.
 
Sorry man, reviving a long dormant topic here, been reading about gear oils for far too long on here now... Do you (or anyone) have any intel on the risk running 75W-90 vs 75W-85? Bought nearly a pallet of the stuff when I was rebuilding a pair of 100s, wasn't too precious about those and just threw it in, but just curious as my 200 will soon be my wife's.
 
Sorry man, reviving a long dormant topic here, been reading about gear oils for far too long on here now... Do you (or anyone) have any intel on the risk running 75W-90 vs 75W-85? Bought nearly a pallet of the stuff when I was rebuilding a pair of 100s, wasn't too precious about those and just threw it in, but just curious as my 200 will soon be my wife's.
nope. just thicker. i'm running it
 
Sorry man, reviving a long dormant topic here, been reading about gear oils for far too long on here now... Do you (or anyone) have any intel on the risk running 75W-90 vs 75W-85? Bought nearly a pallet of the stuff when I was rebuilding a pair of 100s, wasn't too precious about those and just threw it in, but just curious as my 200 will soon be my wife's.
Given what we know about the yellow metals in the transfer case I'd source Genuine Toyota or Ravenol fluid for the that component, but what you have will work great in the diffs.
 
Given what we know about the yellow metals in the transfer case I'd source Genuine Toyota or Ravenol fluid for the that component, but what you have will work great in the diffs.
Good intel, will proceed accordingly, but anywhere you suggest doing some reading on yellow metals? I see a couple mentions on here of them not playing nice with GL-5, just curious on what "not playing nice" entails. Saw that the FSM called for GL-5 in the transfer, just looking to dork out for a sec lol
 
Good intel, will proceed accordingly, but anywhere you suggest doing some reading on yellow metals? I see a couple mentions on here of them not playing nice with GL-5, just curious on what "not playing nice" entails. Saw that the FSM called for GL-5 in the transfer, just looking to dork out for a sec lol
Read taco2cruiser post a few above these.
 
I just replaced the front and rear diffs and the t-case fluid in my 2015 LX. Diffs were Mobil 1 75w90 GL5. The t-case oil was the toyota stuff in the metal can. It also has an additive as identified by the LT notation. It's noticeably thinner than the oil recommended for the front and rear diffs. Much thinner.

I'd suggest reading further if you're using the same oil in the t-case as the diffs...might just be a fuel economy thing but the recommended oils for each application have very different properties upon initial inspection.
 
FWIW, Toyota uses the same part number synchro right up until 12/2011 production. After that point, the synchro is listed as not applicable for all model years following. So they don’t offer it separately from a complete t-case, but it well could be the same.

The synchro is for the H4->L4 shift.
 

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