8" Rear Axle Toyota E-Locker Retrofit Question (1 Viewer)

[Will Van]

As most of you probably know, Toyota supplied factory Tacomas and 4Runners with an OEM rear e-locker, beginning with the 1st gen Tacoma and 3rd gen 4Runner. The Toyota e-locker axle housing is based on essentially the same design as the more-common non-locked Toyota 8.0" rear end, with some slight design changes. It is common for guys to retrofit Toyota e-locker 3rds into non-e-locker axle housings with some small modifications to the 8.0" axle housing. These changes are well documented, and there are several excellent write-ups on the topic:

• Outdoor Recreation Network - Off-Highway, Jeep, and 4x4 Fun
• Retrofit Electric Locker
• https://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/tech/biopsy-of-a-toyota-elocker-swap-54205.html
• Rear Axle Help FZJ80

The basics of the swap require modification to the axle housing mounting flange including grinding/clearancing for the e-locker 3rd, and drilling and tapping for additional studs.

On some write-ups, the installer also had to clearance the back of the housing with a brass drift or air hammer to clear the bolt(s) on the e-locker 3rd member cap. But on some write-ups the clearancing is not required.

The clearancing can be seen in the large green circle in this photo.

My question is, instead of a hex bolt, could you install metric button bolt on the cap? Is anyone familiar with this option? Would this add enough space to avoid the additional clearancing on the back of the housing? I seem to recall someone suggested this option, but can not put my hands on the thread.

TIA.

 

[pappy]

I would question if you could get enough torque on that allen head without stripping out the hole.

 

[Will Van]

I would question if you could get enough torque on that allen head without stripping out the hole.

Good point. What is the torque spec on this bolt?

Here is a different angle for the bolt in question on an open diff.

I would understand if it were the cap bolts. Those are like 70 ft-lbs.

 

[Will Van]

Over on Zuk's page, he specs the tabs at 10 ft-lbs.

@gearinstalls.com Do you have any insight on this topic?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I installed TRD elockers front and rear in an '85 4Runner and didn't have any clearance issues. Why don't you wait to see if you have a problem before you solve it? Just a thought. FWIW, if you want to operate them with an 80 series elocker ECU and switch I documented how in a thread.

 

[pappy]

Good point. What is the torque spec on this bolt?

FSM says 9ft-lb.

 

[Will Van]

FSM says 9ft-lb.

A Grade 8 button head allen should be able to handle that. It’s just holding the tab in place. Add some threadlocker and it should be good-to-go.

 

[Manhattan]

or Torx - much stronger than Allen

 

[Will Van]

or Torx - much stronger than Allen

View attachment 2506454

Great idea.

Anybody know the specs on the bolts for the side adjuster tabs? M8x1.25 I would guess. I have no idea on the length though.

 

[ferg]

Take one off and go to the 'nuts-and-bolts' store and find out.

 

[Will Van]

Take one off and go to the 'nuts-and-bolts' store and find out.

I don’t have a spare 3rd member. They’re all in my trucks. Still need to order the e-locker.

 

[Toast]

I don’t have a spare 3rd member. They’re all in my trucks. Still need to order the e-locker.

I shaved mine down a little with a belt sander and then put some yellow paint on the back side of said bolt. I then dropped the 3rd (gently placed) into the housing until that bolt made contact. Pulled it out and used a ball pien hammed to ever so delicately smack that spot until it just fit. Can’t even notice I smacked the housing when you look at from the rear.

 

[Will Van]

I shaved mine down a little with a belt sander and then put some yellow paint on the back side of said bolt. I then dropped the 3rd (gently placed) into the housing until that bolt made contact. Pulled it out and used a ball pien hammed to ever so delicately smack that spot until it just fit. Can’t even notice I smacked the housing when you look at from the rear.

You shaved down the hex bolt head?

I may just clearance the axle housing like everyone else. It’s probably not worth the risk to start monkeying around with a brand new $2,500 e-locker diff.

 

[Toast]

Yea, no big deal. Shaved the head down a bit on the bolt. Still tons of meat on that puppy to remove and install it needs be. Not sure if I will ever need to touch it though.

 

[Will Van]

Great intel.

And this is the bolt you had to shave down?

 

[KLF]

LOL... I got a kick out of that first photo, I remember taking that in my driveway a looong time ago, those are my feet. It's funny that it's still circulating around.

I've done several installs, and even at the worst, the clearancing is just not a big deal. A few whacks with a 2-pounder and it's done. Don't over think it. You've already spent too much time on it.

 

[Will Van]

LOL... I got a kick out of that first photo, I remember taking that in my driveway a looong time ago, those are my feet. It's funny that it's still circulating around.

I've done several installs, and even at the worst, the clearancing is just not a big deal. A few whacks with a 2-pounder and it's done. Don't over think it. You've already spent too much time on it.

Awesome, I’m so glad I’m speaking to the OG! I pulled the photo from the 4x4wire write up.

Since I’m talking about building a whole donor axle to swap anyway, I may just find a complete 1st gen Tacoma e-locker axle housing and assembly. The 1st gen Tacoma e-locker axles have the same spring perches as the 1st gen 4Runner. At that point, I would just need to figure out e-brake cable and brake lines.

The e-brake cable and T-fitting for the brake hardlines are mounted on the passenger’s side on the 1st gen 4Runner rear axle.

And the e-brake cable and T-fitting for the brake hardlines are mounted on the driver’s side on the 1st gen Tacoma rear axle.

I’m probably going to do the Front Range Off Road full float axle and disc brake conversion at the same time, so that may impact the e-brake and T-fitting anyway.

 

[chesshircat]

You shaved down the hex bolt head?

I may just clearance the axle housing like everyone else. It’s probably not worth the risk to start monkeying around with a brand new $2,500 e-locker diff.

I’ve always just whacked the housing with a hammer. Doesn’t take much. 2500 for an elocker? You can’t find one any cheaper? I’ve never paid more than 150.00, the last two I bought both for 250.00

 

[KLF]

OMG... I just read that $2500 part. That's ridiculous. Don't pay that! They are not that hard to find used, and even if you have to pay for a rebuild, it will be MUCH less.

Or... do what I did and learn how to rebuild them yourself. It's not hard. You do need a press, but... then when you're done, you have a press. I sold all my diff tools to @Mudder otherwise I'd hook you up.

 

[Will Van]

I’ve always just whacked the housing with a hammer. Doesn’t take much. 2500 for an elocker? You can’t find one any cheaper? I’ve never paid more than 150.00, the last two I bought both for 250.00

OMG... I just read that $2500 part. That's ridiculous. Don't pay that! They are not that hard to find used, and even if you have to pay for a rebuild, it will be MUCH less.

Or... do what I did and learn how to rebuild them yourself. It's not hard. You do need a press, but... then when you're done, you have a press. I sold all my diff tools to @Mudder otherwise I'd hook you up.

You’re right, I could find one used for much less than that. They’re $2,500 from Marlin for a brand new one with Ninja gears. I was exaggerating the cost to make a point - “Don’t monkey around with the e-locker bolts, just whack the housing with a hammer and be done with it.”