Great story and photos - thanks for posting!
71 FJ40 Family Heirloom "Refresh"
- Thread starter Stepmurr
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
Fuel Tank Arrives - First Run - Parking Brake Broke
Fuel tank from Mark's offroad.net showed up just before I finished the front axles
so I put a gallon or two of gas in it, hooked up two fuel filters, and as you can see in the photo fired it up while still on the jackstands.
The pics from post 7 shows how rough it was running, but ut had oil pressure and charging voltage from the alternator.
I also noticed that the rear brake lights were on, but I was so excited that it was actually running that I didn't worry about it.
So after checking the carb adjustments, making sure I had six cylinders firing, and no apparent water leaks I shut it down for the night without finding the cause of the rough idling. I found the cause after I got the wheels back on & tried driving it - more to come on that problem!
After I finished the axles I thought I'd inspect the parking brake before I put the rear drive shaft back in (I pulled it for the flat tow to Arizona).
More bad news
the brake linkage had cut the shaft of the drum casting in half. No way to fix this, so I put it back in with a new seal and hoped for the best. I actually ran on this for the next few months!
I was able to find a used brake drum in California that already had a speedi-sleeve on it. I put another new seal when I put the replacement in, and it still leaks a little, but not nearly as bad as the broken shaft drum had.
Pics:
First run on jack stands
Got Volts!
Broke parking brake drum
Broke parking brake drum
Used parking brake drum
Fuel tank from Mark's offroad.net showed up just before I finished the front axles
so I put a gallon or two of gas in it, hooked up two fuel filters, and as you can see in the photo fired it up while still on the jackstands.The pics from post 7 shows how rough it was running, but ut had oil pressure and charging voltage from the alternator.
I also noticed that the rear brake lights were on, but I was so excited that it was actually running that I didn't worry about it.
So after checking the carb adjustments, making sure I had six cylinders firing, and no apparent water leaks I shut it down for the night without finding the cause of the rough idling. I found the cause after I got the wheels back on & tried driving it - more to come on that problem!
After I finished the axles I thought I'd inspect the parking brake before I put the rear drive shaft back in (I pulled it for the flat tow to Arizona).
More bad news
the brake linkage had cut the shaft of the drum casting in half. No way to fix this, so I put it back in with a new seal and hoped for the best. I actually ran on this for the next few months!I was able to find a used brake drum in California that already had a speedi-sleeve on it. I put another new seal when I put the replacement in, and it still leaks a little, but not nearly as bad as the broken shaft drum had.
Pics:
First run on jack stands
Got Volts!
Broke parking brake drum
Broke parking brake drum
Used parking brake drum
Love that voltmeter. Plenty of "old world charm" there!
And fancy wearing right through on the park brake like that
Keep the great pics and discoveries coming...
And fancy wearing right through on the park brake like that
Keep the great pics and discoveries coming...
- Thread starter
- #24
Love that voltmeter. Plenty of "old world charm" there!
And fancy wearing right through on the park brake like that
Keep the great pics and discoveries coming...
The parking brake drum was destroyed because either a spring fell off or the cable was way out of adjustment - I can't remember which, and I didn't take a photo of the "as-found".
I didn't know the drum shaft was not supposed to be grooved at that spot until I looked for a replacement and saw that what I thought was a weak point in the casting was actually not supposed to be there.
I read somewhere that the one lever drops down and acts like a slow speed lathe cutting tool, and if not caught it can start cutting through the output shaft - major bummer!
- Thread starter
- #25
Vac Leak on Brake Booster = Rough Idle!!!
After I got the axles done, broken parking brake drum back in place, driveshaft hooked up & wheels back on I (foolishly) thought I was ready to start driving the cruiser after many months of work.
Nope
I started the engine, backed out of my shed, and discovered why the brake lights had come on when I first ran it on the jackstands.
The brakes were magically applying themselves!
I pulled the brake pedal back up and watched in amazement as the pedal slowly sunk to the floor.
I was sure I had good brakes after weeks of rebuilding cylinders, putting on new shoes, turning the drums and learning the joys of adjusting FJ40 drum brakes.
I was wrong.
One thing I could not test without the engine running was the brake booster. It was leaking around the stem that comes through the firewall and attaches to the brake pedal arm.
I drove (don't tell Mom) the cruiser a few times into town with a bungee cord holding up the brake pedal, but it ran really *rappy. After the first trip down the hill & back I discovered that I had NOT adjusted the brakes correctly as the right front locked before any of the others and nearly pulled me into the bar ditch.
I put the cruiser back on jackstands with all four wheels in the air. The right front wheel could barely turn, the rear left wouldn't stop turning at all when I applied the brakes, and the other two seemed OK.
This isn't the first time I've adjusted brakes - I have been doing it since I was a wee lad. Unfortunately I didn't know that on cruisers (at least this cruiser) you can't rely on adjusting the brakes with the tires off because the drums change shape after tightening the lug nuts!
It is much easier to get to the adjusting holes with the tires off, so I figured I would save time. After a little Mud searching I discovered the error of my ways and re-adjusted all eight (8!) cylinders.
My next trip to town I was able to lock up all four wheels and had a nice straight skid marks. I still had the bungee cord on the brake pedal though, so I decided to park it until I fixed the vacuum leak.
I pulled out the booster and tore it down, but there are no repair kits available, new (and used) boosters are outrageously priced, and cleaning and greasing the rubber seal had no effect on the vacuum leak.
I read about getting $35 boosters from junkyards so off I went with high hopes. I did find a 1984 Toyota pickup with an appropriately sized booster, but I paid $79. I feel it was well worth it as I was really anxious to drive the cruiser. Make sure to get the booster vacuum line AND CHECK VALVE when you pull the booster because the cruiser check valve won't work.
I did have to trim the rod slightly at the brake pedal arm connection, but didn't take any pictures or measure how much I cut off.
I was happily surprised that when I started the engine with the replacement booster the rough idle was gone & the engine purred like a kitten. I hadn't realized just how big the vacuum leak was and how much of an effect it had. I was envisioning a needing a distributer, carb, or a even a total engine rebuild.
Glad it was just a simple vac leak
and I now had a good running, good stopping cruiser!
Picture is of the 84 pickup booster. The check valve is the white thing at the lower right side of the clutch master.
After I got the axles done, broken parking brake drum back in place, driveshaft hooked up & wheels back on I (foolishly) thought I was ready to start driving the cruiser after many months of work.
Nope
I started the engine, backed out of my shed, and discovered why the brake lights had come on when I first ran it on the jackstands.
The brakes were magically applying themselves!
I pulled the brake pedal back up and watched in amazement as the pedal slowly sunk to the floor.
I was sure I had good brakes after weeks of rebuilding cylinders, putting on new shoes, turning the drums and learning the joys of adjusting FJ40 drum brakes.
I was wrong.
One thing I could not test without the engine running was the brake booster. It was leaking around the stem that comes through the firewall and attaches to the brake pedal arm.
I drove (don't tell Mom) the cruiser a few times into town with a bungee cord holding up the brake pedal, but it ran really *rappy. After the first trip down the hill & back I discovered that I had NOT adjusted the brakes correctly as the right front locked before any of the others and nearly pulled me into the bar ditch.
I put the cruiser back on jackstands with all four wheels in the air. The right front wheel could barely turn, the rear left wouldn't stop turning at all when I applied the brakes, and the other two seemed OK.
This isn't the first time I've adjusted brakes - I have been doing it since I was a wee lad. Unfortunately I didn't know that on cruisers (at least this cruiser) you can't rely on adjusting the brakes with the tires off because the drums change shape after tightening the lug nuts!
It is much easier to get to the adjusting holes with the tires off, so I figured I would save time. After a little Mud searching I discovered the error of my ways and re-adjusted all eight (8!) cylinders.
My next trip to town I was able to lock up all four wheels and had a nice straight skid marks. I still had the bungee cord on the brake pedal though, so I decided to park it until I fixed the vacuum leak.
I pulled out the booster and tore it down, but there are no repair kits available, new (and used) boosters are outrageously priced, and cleaning and greasing the rubber seal had no effect on the vacuum leak.
I read about getting $35 boosters from junkyards so off I went with high hopes. I did find a 1984 Toyota pickup with an appropriately sized booster, but I paid $79. I feel it was well worth it as I was really anxious to drive the cruiser. Make sure to get the booster vacuum line AND CHECK VALVE when you pull the booster because the cruiser check valve won't work.
I did have to trim the rod slightly at the brake pedal arm connection, but didn't take any pictures or measure how much I cut off.
I was happily surprised that when I started the engine with the replacement booster the rough idle was gone & the engine purred like a kitten. I hadn't realized just how big the vacuum leak was and how much of an effect it had. I was envisioning a needing a distributer, carb, or a even a total engine rebuild.
Glad it was just a simple vac leak
and I now had a good running, good stopping cruiser!Picture is of the 84 pickup booster. The check valve is the white thing at the lower right side of the clutch master.
Nice job.
But I think the true reason it's necessary to have your wheels on (when adjusting your brakes) is simply because clamping your wheels to your hubs is the only way of ensuring your drums are seated properly/fully. (ie. Nothing to do with changing the shape of the drum.)
- Thread starter
- #28
Nice job.
But I think the true reason it's necessary to have your wheels on (when adjusting your brakes) is simply because clamping your wheels to your hubs is the only way of ensuring your drums are seated properly/fully. (ie. Nothing to do with changing the shape of the drum.)
Good point.
It feels like the drums warp a bit when the tires are on as there is a distinct high point on each drum that isn't in the same spot as when the tire is off.
- Thread starter
- #29
Sky Jacker Lift
I now had a running and, more importantly, a stopping Land Cruiser!
So I started replacing bits & pieces here & there and eventually replaced the following:
Spark plugs & wires
Distributer rotor & cap - the points looked brand new
Alternator
Starter - (I wished I had read that a gear reducer would fit first)
After I adjusted the timing & carb idle the engine ran really well except after driving in the Arizona summer heat it would take forever to start after stopping for a few minutes. I quit stopping for gas or going to the post office in the afternoons.
The next big project was replacing the suspension. I bought a Sky Jacker 4" lift with four new shocks.
Installation was pretty straightforward, none of the very rusty bolts broke, but I was glad I had an impact wrench to get the shackle bolt nuts off. I had been periodically spraying the shackle bolts with PB Blaster, and while it no doubt helped it did not really penetrate past the first few threads on any of the bolts.
The U-bolts were a bigger problem because all the threads were damaged, so I cut off the bolts about half-way through the nuts, about as close as I could get to the plates.
I measured the new springs as 3 1/2" taller than the stock springs. I don't know how much actual lift I got from them because I put different tires on after I finished the lift.
Pics:
1. Old vs new greasable pins - I later found out that some people (I won't mention Claudia) have had greasable pins break on the trail so I won't get these any more. Notice the Toyota bushing has a little wear
2. Spring compare
3 & 4. 16 inch rims with 4" backspace (borrowed from my Tacoma) clears linkages just fine
5. Poser shot
I now had a running and, more importantly, a stopping Land Cruiser!
So I started replacing bits & pieces here & there and eventually replaced the following:
Spark plugs & wires
Distributer rotor & cap - the points looked brand new
Alternator
Starter - (I wished I had read that a gear reducer would fit first)
After I adjusted the timing & carb idle the engine ran really well except after driving in the Arizona summer heat it would take forever to start after stopping for a few minutes. I quit stopping for gas or going to the post office in the afternoons.
The next big project was replacing the suspension. I bought a Sky Jacker 4" lift with four new shocks.
Installation was pretty straightforward, none of the very rusty bolts broke, but I was glad I had an impact wrench to get the shackle bolt nuts off. I had been periodically spraying the shackle bolts with PB Blaster, and while it no doubt helped it did not really penetrate past the first few threads on any of the bolts.
The U-bolts were a bigger problem because all the threads were damaged, so I cut off the bolts about half-way through the nuts, about as close as I could get to the plates.
I measured the new springs as 3 1/2" taller than the stock springs. I don't know how much actual lift I got from them because I put different tires on after I finished the lift.
Pics:
1. Old vs new greasable pins - I later found out that some people (I won't mention Claudia) have had greasable pins break on the trail so I won't get these any more. Notice the Toyota bushing has a little wear
2. Spring compare
3 & 4. 16 inch rims with 4" backspace (borrowed from my Tacoma) clears linkages just fine
5. Poser shot
and yeah, I am so done with greasable spring pins ;p https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/382945-i-am-so-done-greasable-spring-pins.html
