Builds 60 Frankenstein Build (1 Viewer)

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Slight diversion from working on the 60 today. Been wanting to figure out how to get this mess of a port installed alarm out of my 80. It keeps draining the battery since I don't drive it and then it's a bitch to bypass once the battery is charged up. All is good now.
 
Awesome. That's what I figured. Any idea what material to use? Looks a lot heavier than body caulk. Thanks again.

I think it's called seam sealer. Same stuff that's used on the hood brace.
 
Question for those that deal with rust. After wire wheeling the windshield adhesive I found this spot to be worse than I originally thought.
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was disappointed to see these pinholes, but the metal is still solid. Should I cut it out and replace with a donor piece or clean it and float it with filler? I've already treated the metal with a nuetralizer.
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. My concern with a donor piece is getting it perfect so it does not leak again. Thanks for your input.
 
I think it's called seam sealer. Same stuff that's used on the hood brace.
I checked with my local body supply shop and they recommended a Nortons body panel adhesive. Their concern on the seam sealer is that it's not an adhesive and the roof skin will separate under stress. I would think the Nortons is what would go on the hood braces as well. Has anyone used this and if so, please provide feedback. Thanks.
 
I did use Norton's panel glue on a hood once,I got it from a body shop.
The glue that was on there didn't stand up to the heat of my turbo, so I glued it back in, and taped it with heat reflective tape.
Seemed to hold up good.
 
About the windshield frame, I'd also be concerned about the fit for the gasket if a new piece is welded in.
If solid steel, I'd consider wheeling down the rust, rust converter, then epoxy primer and filler.
Can you get to the back from the wiper opening and do the same?
 
About the windshield frame, I'd also be concerned about the fit for the gasket if a new piece is welded in.
If solid steel, I'd consider wheeling down the rust, rust converter, then epoxy primer and filler.
Can you get to the back from the wiper opening and do the same?
I moved forward with cleaning the metal and filling it. This is a shot after laying the filler. I had to take off for a work trip, but will knock it down when I return.
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you mentioned epoxy primer and then filler. I was going to do it the other way around. I planned on sealing the whole tub prior to prime and paint. Let me know if I'm doing it wrong im by no means an expert. Seems I have to relearn this every few years when I decide to paint a ride.
 
you mentioned epoxy primer and then filler. I was going to do it the other way around. I planned on sealing the whole tub prior to prime and paint. Let me know if I'm doing it wrong im by no means an expert. Seems I have to relearn this every few years when I decide to paint a ride.

In my climate, I use the epoxy primer first to seal off the metal as soon as possible. I use a scanox can that actually is a primer-filler, so it can be worked on the first 24 hours. If no need for filler, I just prime with a yellow basic cheap 2k epoxy.

I guess the practical solution varies after climates and what job you're doing.
 
Let us know how that works out. My hood bracing and roof braces are all separated from the body panels.
 
Let us know how that works out. My hood bracing and roof braces are all separated from the body panels.
The Norton product works. I took the weights off this morning and the bond is solid. Unfortunately my roof is still wavy. It's sagging in between the braces. Not sure how to fix this as the roof dips between them. Could be from the many years of no contact with the braces and the metal became distorted. The braces can be adjusted (minimal) and I'm going to play with them a bit.
 
Finally getting some paint on the rig. McGuire has been a huge help and he shot at least half the paint. Did an awesome job for his first time using the gun.
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theres MJ's reflection
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this was the toughest section to paint. Very large surface and I had to work in quarter sections. Could not reach all the way across or from front to back. I
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really like the deep Blue color.
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MJ shooting some epoxy. We have rain scheduled the next two days. Since my building was built in the 1940's, there are a few places where water drips during rain showers. Therefore, we will shoot the rest of the tub on Sunday. Then we will prep and shoot all the doors & fenders. It feels great to get it to this point.
 
Ben meaning to provide some updates. Have done some work, but not as am fast as I would like. And unfortunately my mothers cancer has come back. Will have some delays as she's started radiation treatments. Really sucks! I may skip around a bit on the pics etc...but will try to stay on course.
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this after shooting the rest of the tub. Been shooting with a $35 gun to this point. Was not too happy with how the clear laid. Many hours of wet sanding to flatten it out.
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its getting better. Is still cloudy, but I'm letting the paint cure a bit. It's bee a few weeks and I'll buff it again now that it's set up.
 

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