35"+ Tire Roll-call... (200's only) (9 Viewers)

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Thanks for the info, I’m just about to pull the trigger on the stealth custom F5s with a Yokohama Geolandar X 285/70r18. I always thought you could only fit 18s on the 200, and a few wheel manufacturers only make 18” in 5x150– assumed it was for a reason!

I’m not really rock crawling but I do drive off-road. What I really want to avoid is having an undersized tire setup after I lift it. Even with a 1.5” lift wheels and tires appear small… think I’d be ok with 33.9?
285 75 17 on a built 200 look like an oem fitment to my eye…as if that’s the size they “should” have put on it…or if there was a “rubicon” or “raptor” trim for a 200 series, that’s the size they’d run.

Functionally, I don’t know that you gain much in 34 or 35 over a 32 or 33 for the average person.

I plan to run 285 70 17…sometimes looks a bit small but, generally, looks about right…and it’ll likely perform better on road (where my car is 99.999% of the time) than the larger ones, all things considered.

(I’ve had stock, 33’s, and currently have 35’s…plan to go back to 33’s next time)
 
17's and 35's are the right aesthetic to my mind. Moreover, 17" tires are generally a lot cheaper, many more sizes available, and many more load ranges available. Pretty much all AT tires in an 18" size are E-rated and heavier. Going with a 35x12.5x17 D-rated tire improved my ride quality considerably over the 285/75r18 I was running before. And they look better to me, and I'm more comfortable airing down lower. I'd say if you like the look of 17's, just go for it. It will pay for itself probably by the second set of tires.
 
Excuse my rapid mock-up! Here's what I approximate each size will look like, might be a touch big on the F5s. Anyone else like the look of the F5?
cruiser-mockup.jpg
 
17's and 35's are the right aesthetic to my mind. Moreover, 17" tires are generally a lot cheaper, many more sizes available, and many more load ranges available. Pretty much all AT tires in an 18" size are E-rated and heavier. Going with a 35x12.5x17 D-rated tire improved my ride quality considerably over the 285/75r18 I was running before. And they look better to me, and I'm more comfortable airing down lower. I'd say if you like the look of 17's, just go for it. It will pay for itself probably by the second set of tires.
How are you liking the 4.88s and 35s?
 
How are you liking the 4.88s and 35s?
I'll preface this by saying I have a light build. No bumpers, no swing-out, no drawers. Just sliders, basic tools and an air compressor. I ran 35's (285/75r18) for a couple years with stock gears and I thought it was just fine power wise. I did not want for any deeper gearing. Only reason I got the 4.88 was because I was going into the diffs anyways for lockers, so very minimal additional $$ investment to get the gears also. To be honest, I was underwhelmed by the result. It doesn't feel any more powerful to me on the highway and barely noticeable increase in pep around town. A little snappier off the line at a stop light, but meh. So for on-road driving, I feel it was money wasted. Off road I do appreciate the lower gearing for better control and engine braking actually does something now, more akin to manual transmission engine breaking, which is great. I don't regret doing it, but I'm not sure I would do it again for 35's.

That said, I am entertaining notions of maybe 37's someday... :hmm:
 
Excuse my rapid mock-up! Here's what I approximate each size will look like, might be a touch big on the F5s. Anyone else like the look of the F5?
View attachment 3593229

I love the look of the F5, and that probably would have been my wheel of choice if you could get one in a 17 that fits a 200.
 
I'll preface this by saying I have a light build. No bumpers, no swing-out, no drawers. Just sliders, basic tools and an air compressor. I ran 35's (285/75r18) for a couple years with stock gears and I thought it was just fine power wise. I did not want for any deeper gearing. Only reason I got the 4.88 was because I was going into the diffs anyways for lockers, so very minimal additional $$ investment to get the gears also. To be honest, I was underwhelmed by the result. It doesn't feel any more powerful to me on the highway and barely noticeable increase in pep around town. A little snappier off the line at a stop light, but meh. So for on-road driving, I feel it was money wasted. Off road I do appreciate the lower gearing for better control and engine braking actually does something now, more akin to manual transmission engine breaking, which is great. I don't regret doing it, but I'm not sure I would do it again for 35's.

That said, I am entertaining notions of maybe 37's someday... :hmm:
Thanks for the insight. I'm on 34s right now with stock gearing, it doesn't feel bad at all but I do feel a difference vs stock. And since I want to get f/r lockers so might as well do gears like you said. I'm a heavier rig (front/rear bumper, winch, drawers, fridge, roof rack, aux battery) vs. you. And with 4.88s then I can entertain the idea of 37s ;)
 
I thought the gears made a bigger difference than @Heckraiser mentioned, but it’s most notable when you engine brake down a hill instead of riding the brakes.
I don’t think there is much in 34 vs 35. I do agree with @Heckraiser on the look of 35s on 17s is good, but more importantly you can get a load 121 D 35x10.5r17 or 35x12.5r17 and that will perform as good but ride way better than a 129 load 315/70r18. So many more acceptable road pressures and latitude for compliance.
 
Thanks for the info, I’m just about to pull the trigger on the stealth custom F5s with a Yokohama Geolandar X 285/70r18. I always thought you could only fit 18s on the 200, and a few wheel manufacturers only make 18” in 5x150– assumed it was for a reason!

I’m not really rock crawling but I do drive off-road. What I really want to avoid is having an undersized tire setup after I lift it. Even with a 1.5” lift wheels and tires appear small… think I’d be ok with 33.9?
Kreiten used to run 285/70r18. I had 285/75r17 until recently. They’re within 0.1” of each other. Lots of others run a 34” tire. I have a lengthy 34s on stock suspension thread which ultimately ended with a lift and a lot of trimming. Again it’s a question of how much hassle you want as what goals you have. I do think 34-35 is the best looking size on these trucks but each successive inch above a 33 adds issues you’ll need to sort out.
 
Kreiten used to run 285/70r18. I had 285/75r17 until recently. They’re within 0.1” of each other. Lots of others run a 34” tire. I have a lengthy 34s on stock suspension thread which ultimately ended with a lift and a lot of trimming. Again it’s a question of how much hassle you want as what goals you have. I do think 34-35 is the best looking size on these trucks but each successive inch above a 33 adds issues you’ll need to sort out.
Sage advice, I just purchased the F5's with 285/70r18 Geolandar X which puts me right at 34" give or take.
 
I thought the gears made a bigger difference than @Heckraiser mentioned, but it’s most notable when you engine brake down a hill instead of riding the brakes.
I don’t think there is much in 34 vs 35. I do agree with @Heckraiser on the look of 35s on 17s is good, but more importantly you can get a load 121 D 35x10.5r17 or 35x12.5r17 and that will perform as good but ride way better than a 129 load 315/70r18. So many more acceptable road pressures and latitude for compliance.
Once I got to zero rubbing on a 34, moving up to a 35x11.5 was no effort. But there’s not really a meaningful improvement in clearance going 34 to 35. And both look good on a 17” wheel, though looks are subjective.

34 on 17” (2” tough dog lift)
IMG_4646.jpeg


35 on 17”, with about 1/2” more suspension lift (BP51)
IMG_4089.jpeg
 

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