turbo8
Supporting Vendor
I just measured my 35 BFGs, under load and 38 psi 33.5"
Maybe I need to go to a true 35 and get the 37" version.
35"+ Tire Roll-call... (200's only) (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Markuson
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Maybe I need to go to a true 35 and get the 37" version.
That’s what I’m saying! I run my 35 yoko MTs at 31 cold and they are 34.1 loaded.
37s on 17s seems manageable…with a probably weighted height ago 35.5 at mid 30s
How much tread is left? Keep in mind size is measured new (and at max sidewall pressure), so if your tires are heavily worn they may be 3/4” shorter
How are you guys measuring? I’m assuming I mounted from the vehicle at least? I think the only correct way would be to take the circumference when inflated but off the vehicle and divide by pi, as “height” would be affected by weight (in theory even the tires own weight)
The BFG website says the 35" tires is 34.5" at 65 PSI under no load.
When I put the BFG beside my Nitto 34" tire the BFG is smaller. Both at 38 PSI.
Jason Andrews
Modaholic
Do it!!! Thats what I did. And went to the C load 37 ko2s since they are actually lighter. 66-67lbs for the 35x12.50 E rated and 65lbs for the 37x12.50 C rated or 69-70lbs for the D rated.
I just measured my 37" ko2s and they are 35.5" so basically a 36" tire.
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
They are about a year old, not sure on tread depth. I took the weight off and they measure 34.5".
This connects some dots for me. I keep staring at your LX wondering how the hell you fit them so easily.
I slapped on a set of 37s at @MTKID place and they basically rubbed everywhere all at once in normal height.
Have you towed with these yet? How much space do you have between the wheel and the frame on the passenger side at full lock?
Yep towed about 200 miles. I ran the front tires at 38psi and my rears at 48. No complaints on handling.
No rubbing anywhere, turning while driving, towing, etc. no marks on the kdss arm or the passengers side sway bar. keep in mind my wheels are +25 offset and I have the trail tailor kdss relo kit
Awesome feedback! Thank you.
It’s all perspective. I would have said they nearly cleared everywhere…
Hey fellas. Will someone give me a quick road map to 35s or 37s. I figured a bunch of guys have probably done it by now and have been through the headaches. Is it a king 3.5 inch lift..? Or is everyone going another route? Thanks for any tips and advice.
I feel like this is the best roadmap for LX’s onto 35’s…
Fitting Full Fat 35x12.5 on an LX - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fitting-full-fat-35x12-5-on-an-lx.1227030/
But you may run into the KDSS bar on a standard LC. At least one LC driver has chosen to ditch his front swaybar and seems to think it’s no big deal for on-road driving. That is probably highly subjective.
For 37’s, people have taken a few different routes. I chose the cheap route. Body lift to start, then cutting and massaging other body work out of the way. That’s probably an over-simplification, but I feel like 37’s are really easy on an LX. I would still recommend the same thing. 1.5” body lift is perfect, but 1” minimum, then a willingness to cut fenders until an aftermarket fender solution becomes available. If it ever does. Possibly some extended bumpstops to help prevent interference with the fenders but that will likely reduce uptravel at least a little.
As others have said, the best way is probably a combination of these methods.
There are bracket lifts for the 2nd gen Tundra that have gotten some onto 37’s, but you are reducing some of your clearance underneath dropping the front diff and LCA’s down so far.
If you push the KDSS bar forward with a relo kit on the LC, 35s can fit. I have the relo, sway bar end links mounted outside the cradle, +25 offset wheels, front winch bumper, and around 3.5 degrees of caster in my alignment and 35x11.5 fits without contacting the sway bar, KDSS arm, body mount, UCA, or fender. I can't speak to a more readily available 35x12.5 and different wheel offsets and alignment specs will potentially affect the setup.
And as you point out, 37s are a more significant commitment. Body lift, body mount chop, fender rolling at least. On an LC you'd need to ditch the front sway bar, or push the wheels further out with lower offsets and then cut the fenders, or simply deal with all sorts of rubbing and contact at full lock. If my truck ever becomes a full trail rig I'll go that route but I spend too much time in the city and on the highway with a trailer in tow that I'm not ambitious enough to work this out.
Seems like 37s are definitely trail committed. Are your upper UCAs stock or are you using total chaos, etc? Also what lift do you have?
SPC UCAs. In my experience you can't properly align a lifted vehicle with factory UCAs.
SPCs require a lot of maintenance and are more work to set IMO. And my balljoints only went 75k miles - unlike my factory lower joints which are at 150k and still solid. If I had to buy new UCAs I'd probably look at other options as I don't think most people need the extra adjustability of the SPC - something with a fixed +1 degree of caster would be fine up to 35s.
No surprise 35s and 37s get into some tight balance of parameters. Maybe counter-intuitive, but offset and lift are important, but going beyond a certain point, they create more issues than they solve.
Lift - Lift on an IFS doesn't create clearance the way it may on a solid axle. Unless wheel travel is changed, the tire still needs to clear all through the extents of travel for anyone that's really off-roading. More lift requires more down angle of control arms, sucking the tire into the centerline of the chassis, creating clearance issues against KDSS and chassis, as well narrowing the track width which is not great for a lifted car.
Offset - Go too far and instead of the tire pivoting on its contact patch, it will swing back and forth as it pivots. Creating clearance issues both fore and aft. There's also handling and scrub radius issues beyond just clearance. Interestingly, a +35 offset wide tire fitment with a 35x12.5 actually sticks out on the fender side about 2mm more than a +25 35x11.5 narrow fitment.
Caster corrected UCAs, while necessary for certain configurations, can also be counter productive. I don't use that in my recipe because correcting caster with the upper control arm, means it pulls the centerline of the front axle towards the BMC. Whereas correcting caster with the lower control arm pulls the axle towards the front of the car and creates more space against the BMC. Sure, with more lift, that requires more caster correction beyond what the LCA is capable of, but that goes back to point #1 that too much lift creates its own issues.
Lift - Lift on an IFS doesn't create clearance the way it may on a solid axle. Unless wheel travel is changed, the tire still needs to clear all through the extents of travel for anyone that's really off-roading. More lift requires more down angle of control arms, sucking the tire into the centerline of the chassis, creating clearance issues against KDSS and chassis, as well narrowing the track width which is not great for a lifted car.
Offset - Go too far and instead of the tire pivoting on its contact patch, it will swing back and forth as it pivots. Creating clearance issues both fore and aft. There's also handling and scrub radius issues beyond just clearance. Interestingly, a +35 offset wide tire fitment with a 35x12.5 actually sticks out on the fender side about 2mm more than a +25 35x11.5 narrow fitment.
Caster corrected UCAs, while necessary for certain configurations, can also be counter productive. I don't use that in my recipe because correcting caster with the upper control arm, means it pulls the centerline of the front axle towards the BMC. Whereas correcting caster with the lower control arm pulls the axle towards the front of the car and creates more space against the BMC. Sure, with more lift, that requires more caster correction beyond what the LCA is capable of, but that goes back to point #1 that too much lift creates its own issues.
I wasn't able to get more than 1.6 degrees of caster after lifting with the factory UCA. I can do 4 degrees with the SPC UCA set to the default +1 degree, though I run less. Not sure why caster was so bad with the factory UCA, maybe the SPC balljoint also has more rotation available? My first lift wasn't that much. This is at a pro alignment shop.
With factory UCA:
With SPC UCA set to +2 degrees:
Slee Offroad setup, with SPC UCA set to +1 degrees, after BP51 install (which was measured as 10mm more than the old lift):
