35"+ Tire Roll-call... (200's only) (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Markuson
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- 200 series 35 tire
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That’s interesting. 12.5” wide 35’s fit on 50 offset?
Pretty much. No alignment sorcery either. I can run the 50mm offset because I sawed the KDSS off the truck, and opted to go with a heavier aftermarket rear sway bar and no front.
I do have a rub somewhere on the driver’s side that at 1/2-3/4 lock that sounded like plastics. I didn’t have time to investigate this morning before I hopped on a plane.
I do have some concerns about contact with the upper control arms at full lock, but they could be unfounded.
Realized I forgot to post in here, but I swapped the skinny 35's for some fat ones a couple months back;
Before: 285/75r18 Nitto Terra Grappler on Tundra 18's w/ 1" spacer
After: 35x12.5x17 Mickey Thompson Baja Boss on Method 316 +25mm
No additional mods done (standard mods done for the skinnies) and the driver front tire scrapes the plastic liner at the top of the wheel well a little bit because the liner was knocked loose on Hell's Revenge when my slider bent into the rocker plastic. But it more or less fits.
Before: 285/75r18 Nitto Terra Grappler on Tundra 18's w/ 1" spacer
After: 35x12.5x17 Mickey Thompson Baja Boss on Method 316 +25mm
No additional mods done (standard mods done for the skinnies) and the driver front tire scrapes the plastic liner at the top of the wheel well a little bit because the liner was knocked loose on Hell's Revenge when my slider bent into the rocker plastic. But it more or less fits.
Your new wheels look so much better. Those tundra wheels are hideous imo. U could do nothing but change those wheels and already the upgrade is 10x. Great looking setup.
Jason Andrews
Modaholic
Out of curiosity is it a 33mm Whiteline rear bar and how much noticeably better compared to the stock sway bar?
Does no sway bar in the front make it weird to drive on road, especially at say 75..80mph freeway speeds?
No. I’d say the most noticeable experience with this setup is at neighborhood speeds and below. The best way to describe it is it feels like each wheel (independent) is reaching and trying to press into the ground especially over speed tables not approached at perpendicular. High speed swerves feel just fine. If I’m in an empty parking lot I can swerve back and forth with enough speed and slalom, I can make it feel unstable through transition, but as soon as I hold the wheel in a turn it stabilizes.
It’s the Dobinson’s SB59-1929 (33mm). It is a bit stiffer. I did not run a factory bar for a long period of time and so too the heavier bar with a front bar. In other words, it’s a limited data set, but you will notice more roll control. Speed bumps taken at speed and not perpendicular are more noticeable. Coming off obstacles is where you will notice it most. It has taken a lot of that energy out of the side to side transfer out of the rear WITHOUT having to increase compression and rebound setting or heavier coil springs!. That’s key to the whole heavy sway bar conversation.
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I actually did like the TRD Tundra wheels. There is a member here that painted them dark grey and they look really nice. But I knew I wanted more sidewall and 17's for aesthetic reasons, and switching to 17's also made tire selection and pricing less daunting. I like the method 316's for their simple, basic "this is a truck wheel" design. Ditching the spacers was also a plus in my book.
Just got my 34's - 295/70r18 RT Trails mounted to my AlphaEqpt Echo's which had been sitting in my garage for awhile now waiting for my Toyo ATII's to wear out.
Had to remove front rear mud flap and do the trimming and bracket bending along with pushing front fender liner forward. Fits nicely now. I have about a 1/4" gap to the bm when turning at its closest position.
Ride is great. A little more road noise than the ATII's.
Haven't done any stuff tests yet.
Edit: adding side view
Had to remove front rear mud flap and do the trimming and bracket bending along with pushing front fender liner forward. Fits nicely now. I have about a 1/4" gap to the bm when turning at its closest position.
Ride is great. A little more road noise than the ATII's.
Haven't done any stuff tests yet.
Edit: adding side view
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Posting here for posterity. I cupped my 295/70/18 Falken wildpeaks due to an ignored alignment issue. The price difference between 295, 305, and 35x12.50 was a wash so I went all in. Full fat.
Here is what I considered
I have talked plenty of smack about KO2s but they ultimately were my preferred option.
In terms of fitment, I already done most of the work to fit 295s on these 25mm methods:
1. I’m running extended @PerryParts LX specific bump stops all the way around. These have totally made the truck more complaint off road even in normal height. Totally solved smacking my rear bumper with the outside edge of the tire.
2. I hammered pinch weld back and notched the body Mount and hammered back about 1/2”. I do intend on welding it up solid. I also took a heat gun and worked the fender liner back pretty good.
Ride characteristics from the 295s so far are identical. Love the look
Here is what I considered
I have talked plenty of smack about KO2s but they ultimately were my preferred option.
In terms of fitment, I already done most of the work to fit 295s on these 25mm methods:
1. I’m running extended @PerryParts LX specific bump stops all the way around. These have totally made the truck more complaint off road even in normal height. Totally solved smacking my rear bumper with the outside edge of the tire.
2. I hammered pinch weld back and notched the body Mount and hammered back about 1/2”. I do intend on welding it up solid. I also took a heat gun and worked the fender liner back pretty good.
Ride characteristics from the 295s so far are identical. Love the look
Well crap, I am keeping KDSS… so no bueno on that solution for RW’s
Did I miss a setup on RW’s (+50) with a 35x12.5-17?
Or is 34” (285/75-17) the way to go?
I need full articulation, and don’t mind chopping some.
My goal is axle clearance with a 12.5” prefered
How well does the front tire tuck into the fender in low/during compression/flex?Posting here for posterity. I cupped my 295/70/18 Falken wildpeaks due to an ignored alignment issue. The price difference between 295, 305, and 35x12.50 was a wash so I went all in. Full fat.
Here is what I considered
View attachment 3519110
I have talked plenty of smack about KO2s but they ultimately were my preferred option.
View attachment 3519111
View attachment 3519112
View attachment 3519113
View attachment 3519114
In terms of fitment, I already done most of the work to fit 295s on these 25mm methods:
1. I’m running extended @PerryParts LX specific bump stops all the way around. These have totally made the truck more complaint off road even in normal height. Totally solved smacking my rear bumper with the outside edge of the tire.
2. I hammered pinch weld back and notched the body Mount and hammered back about 1/2”. I do intend on welding it up solid. I also took a heat gun and worked the fender liner back pretty good.
View attachment 3519121
View attachment 3519122
Ride characteristics from the 295s so far are identical. Love the look
We’ll find out
♂ I think I’ll be good especially with the extended bump stops. Prior to installing them I was rubbing top of the wheel wells. I think I’ve got plenty of room around body Mount and pinch weld now.
@highfructose Here is a 35x12.5 on the bump in the front.
@tbisaacs looks great man. Should be a pretty easy swap from the 295. That extra width looks great
@tbisaacs looks great man. Should be a pretty easy swap from the 295. That extra width looks great
What offset wheel?
Which @PerryParts part number are you running?Posting here for posterity. I cupped my 295/70/18 Falken wildpeaks due to an ignored alignment issue. The price difference between 295, 305, and 35x12.50 was a wash so I went all in. Full fat.
Here is what I considered
View attachment 3519110
I have talked plenty of smack about KO2s but they ultimately were my preferred option.
View attachment 3519111
View attachment 3519112
View attachment 3519113
View attachment 3519114
In terms of fitment, I already done most of the work to fit 295s on these 25mm methods:
1. I’m running extended @PerryParts LX specific bump stops all the way around. These have totally made the truck more complaint off road even in normal height. Totally solved smacking my rear bumper with the outside edge of the tire.
2. I hammered pinch weld back and notched the body Mount and hammered back about 1/2”. I do intend on welding it up solid. I also took a heat gun and worked the fender liner back pretty good.
View attachment 3519121
View attachment 3519122
Ride characteristics from the 295s so far are identical. Love the look
I'm running 35x11.5 Falken RT01's on +25 offset. I did the KDSS relo kit, and put my sway bar end links on the outside of the cradle. No rubbing on the KDSS or swaybar, clears the body mount fine too. Quick visual comparison of my setup vs your proposed one and you can see you'll be quite a bit closer to the KDSS. If you want to go 12.5 wide you need a lower offset wheel. A 35x10.5 tire (Kenda Klever) should fit on +50 and a 35x11.5 probably will clear if you do a KDSS relo.
I think both 34 and 35 will make KDSS contact on RWs. 34s on +25 offset would make slight contact for me, and RWs are an inch closer to the KDSS arm.
I have durobumps in one of the front positions, but they're not extended. I can see marks where the factory bumps have made contact, so at least at speed I don't make any contact at full compression. Trail articulation should be fine, I think... I was running 34x11.5 before and crossed up on a trail where I was leaning my front still had about an inch or maybe a bit more of clearance with the wheel turned hard. Wish I had a photo of it but I think 35s will clear the fender except maybe in the most extreme circumstance.
