Builds 2L-T vs 2L-TII LJ70 Build (2 Viewers)

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Changed out the Front and Rear Transfer Case Seals.
Thanks for the parts Kurt @cruiseroutfit
Probably the easiest job I've done on this vehicle besides changing the shocks,
although the Nuts were Staked Knee Deep and bent 2 screwdrivers un-steaking the nuts.
It helped that I had a good seal puller. So hopefully no more leaks in the driveway.
The front seal really wasn't in that bad of shape. A lot of gunk in that area but it wasn't the front
seal upon further review. It appears the UFO object at 10' o'clock or possibly the High/Low Shifter at 12 o'clock.
Lots of buildup on both.

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Since the Transfer Case Seal job went according to plan, I decided to tackle the Rear Pinon Seal too. This seal was actually in the worst shape of all, and it took more than a few pulls of the slide hammer to get out. A 30mm socket is required for this job, which I couldn't seem to locate immediately. That was the longest & hardest part of the job. The steak nut on the rear axle wasn't nearly as deep as the transfer case nuts.

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Joined
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Since I was under the LJ anyway, I decided to do an inspection of the Speedometer Cable to ensure it wasn't binding or dry & inspect the speedometer gears at the Transfer Case. The speedo gears seemed to be in good shape (unlike some Fox Body Ford Mustangs) and the speedo cable was not binding and seem well lubricated. Ordered a new "Meter" from Joe @joekatana for good measure. The bouncing speedo is driving me NUTS!

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Still waiting on the flexible brake hoses to finish up this front end re-build.
This job seems to be really dragging on now.

Cleaning & Painting the brake calipers was the first thing I did on the tear down.
So I guess it is appropriate assembly of the brake calipers is one of the last things I do.

5 or the 8 caliper pistons had zero pitting/corrosion.
3 had some pitting near the square cut seal,
but they seemed very smooth after hitting them with 0000 Steel Wool and 1500 grit paper.
But since the flex brake hoses have not arrived yet, I ordered 3 new brake pistons.

I also learned today, if you go into a big box auto parts store and ask for, "Lithium Soap Based Glycol Grease,
they will look at you like you have just arrived from another planet, and then try to sell you a tube of white lithium grease that has a max temp of 325 degrees. I am quite surprised the old brake system hung in there as long as it did without any leaking, but I'm satisfied I'll get a few years out of this caliper rebuild.

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Joined
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Well, I bolted the Free Wheel Hubs and Calipers back on today. Still waiting on a pair of #1 Flex Brake Hoses, and then I will bleed the brake system. I feel this chapter on the LJ70 is closed, and can honestly say, it was a real learning experience. On one of the "How To" rebuild a Toyota Solid Front Axle Articles stated, "Rebuilding the Toyota Solid Front Axle is a Right of Passage for all Land Cruiser Owners". I'm gonna have to agree with that statement after doing this job, especially if you are rebuilding/doing the Brake System and the Tie Rods. It can get involved with the tear down, the cleaning, the painting, the broken part, the stripped part, the missing part, or the missing tool, and the re-assembly.

It took me longer to do this front axle rebuild than swapping in a new engine and in hindsight is should not have.
I watched more than a few "how to" videos and read a few articles but you really don't know, what you don't know.
These two video series from Low Range OffRoad and Jonesy's Garage are the best in my opinion to extrapolate how to do an LJ:

How To Rebuild A Toyota 4X4 Solid Front Axle (Part 1) Initial Tear Down - YouTube

How to Rebuild your 4wd Toyota Front Axle Closed Knuckle Part 1 - YouTube

I'd also like to thank Kris @Nas90tdi for letting me bug him with all my nit-noid questions!

Moreover, it would be impossible for me to write a better "How To" since there are so many good ones out there on MUD and other places. But, things I wish had done different would be the following:

1. Buy a Shop Press or have a friend that has one. I really didn't like banging out the wheel studs, or banging them in.
2. Short of having a Shop Press, Buy 2-3 Wheel Studs just in case you mangle any getting them out.
3. Using the old bearing races to drive in the new races only works so well. Buy a decent set of Seal/Race Drivers prior.
4. Get the complete Knuckle Rebuild Kit from one of the fine vendors on this forum like Kurt @cruiseroutfit; however, there are some additional things that are not included in these kits that I wish I bought prior to starting the job, so you don't get bogged down waiting on parts later. But again you don't know what you don't know. Specifically I would have bought the complete set of (studs, cone washers, flat washers, and nuts) and I would have bought new hub bolts. Otherwise you will get jammed at the local dealer when you could have had them at less than half price from a good vendor.
5. Order your Brake Hoses way in advance so they arrive prior to the job if you think you may need them.
6. Dorman Caliper Rebuild kit is $15, Toyota is $57. Is the Toyota one 4 times better, YES.
7. Paper Gaskets go on each side of the Knuckle Spindle, not as illustrated in the LJ70 Repair Manual.
(between Dust Seal and Dust Cover). At least that is what seems to make sense to me and the what factory did.
8. Flange IN on Oil Seal Set backing Plate. Flange surrounds and protects the felt. (some Videos have flange OUT)
9. The 8mm bolt trick to pull the Birfields out when attaching the "C-Clip" is worth repeating. I'm glad I saw that trick.
10. Assembly Lube on Bearing Races prior to seating and RTV on Axle Seals prior to seating.

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Joined
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The PO had after market cheap Chinese chrome lug nuts on the LJ70 when I bought it. After I rebuilt the knuckles and beat out the studs with a hammer to install the new rotors, 3 of the "el chepo" lug nuts stripped out on the hammered wheel studs. I ordered new Toyota studs and new lug nuts, but woke up last night in a sweat and thought maybe a die may work instead of tearing everything down again. Sometimes things work out, and as it turns out, a $12 Die - M12x1.5 is cheaper than 3 OEM studs and a lot faster to chase, than pulling the rotors and installing new studs. FYI, an ordinary 27mm, nor 1 1/16" six point socket will not fit between the hub and the die, but an old fashion crescent wrench will work just fine, assuming the studs aren't beat to all hell.

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Joined
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Replaced the Bottom Rear Spring Insulators on the LJ today. Top cushions were like new believe it or not, but supposedly they are a discontinued part for pre-1990 LJ70s. Part #48258-60010 is worth buying prior to doing your rear spring job, if you are changing out the rear springs for some Dobinsons or otherwise.

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Decided against going with a side pipe / side exit exhaust since it totally blocks the frame and interferes with the welding points for rock sliders. Went with the stock cross-over pipe and with a 18" Jones Full Boar Exhaust. Sounds good and not loud at all.
Actually, the 25+ year old Toyota Muffler seemed to flow pretty good in hindsight. Probably a waste of time and money
on my part, but I wrongly assumed it needed replacement due to its age. She probably had a few more years left in her. But lesson learned. If you knock on it and don't hear any rust bouncing around inside, leave it alone.

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Pulled the trigger today on some lightly used rims with 33"x10.5 BF Goodrich KO tires.
I was holding out for 17" 16 hole steelies, but got a decent deal on these 15" alloys with minus 30 ET.

This solved my problem with right side tie rod clearance, but not sure if I like the look of all black wheels.
May have to media blast and clear coat or possibly power coat bronze in the future.

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