Well, I bolted the Free Wheel Hubs and Calipers back on today. Still waiting on a pair of #1 Flex Brake Hoses, and then I will bleed the brake system. I feel this chapter on the LJ70 is closed, and can honestly say, it was a real learning experience. On one of the "How To" rebuild a Toyota Solid Front Axle Articles stated, "Rebuilding the Toyota Solid Front Axle is a Right of Passage for all Land Cruiser Owners". I'm gonna have to agree with that statement after doing this job, especially if you are rebuilding/doing the Brake System and the Tie Rods. It can get involved with the tear down, the cleaning, the painting, the broken part, the stripped part, the missing part, or the missing tool, and the re-assembly.
It took me longer to do this front axle rebuild than swapping in a new engine and in hindsight is should not have.
I watched more than a few "how to" videos and read a few articles but you really don't know, what you don't know.
These two video series from Low Range OffRoad and Jonesy's Garage are the best in my opinion to extrapolate how to do an LJ:
How To Rebuild A Toyota 4X4 Solid Front Axle (Part 1) Initial Tear Down - YouTube
How to Rebuild your 4wd Toyota Front Axle Closed Knuckle Part 1 - YouTube
I'd also like to thank Kris
@Nas90tdi for letting me bug him with all my nit-noid questions!
Moreover, it would be impossible for me to write a better "How To" since there are so many good ones out there on MUD and other places. But, things I wish had done different would be the following:
1. Buy a Shop Press or have a friend that has one. I really didn't like banging out the wheel studs, or banging them in.
2. Short of having a Shop Press, Buy 2-3 Wheel Studs just in case you mangle any getting them out.
3. Using the old bearing races to drive in the new races only works so well. Buy a decent set of Seal/Race Drivers prior.
4. Get the complete Knuckle Rebuild Kit from one of the fine vendors on this forum like Kurt
@cruiseroutfit; however, there are some additional things that are not included in these kits that I wish I bought prior to starting the job, so you don't get bogged down waiting on parts later. But again you don't know what you don't know. Specifically I would have bought the complete set of (studs, cone washers, flat washers, and nuts) and I would have bought new hub bolts. Otherwise you will get jammed at the local dealer when you could have had them at less than half price from a good vendor.
5. Order your Brake Hoses way in advance so they arrive prior to the job if you think you may need them.
6. Dorman Caliper Rebuild kit is $15, Toyota is $57. Is the Toyota one 4 times better, YES.
7. Paper Gaskets go on each side of the Knuckle Spindle, not as illustrated in the LJ70 Repair Manual.
(between Dust Seal and Dust Cover). At least that is what seems to make sense to me and the what factory did.
8. Flange IN on Oil Seal Set backing Plate. Flange surrounds and protects the felt. (some Videos have flange OUT)
9. The 8mm bolt trick to pull the Birfields out when attaching the "C-Clip" is worth repeating. I'm glad I saw that trick.
10. Assembly Lube on Bearing Races prior to seating and RTV on Axle Seals prior to seating.
11. Front Disc Brake Pad Kit number has changed from 04491-35080 to 04465-35170. It also crosses with 1984-1986 4Runner.
