Builds 2L-T vs 2L-TII LJ70 Build (1 Viewer)

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I ordered the springs directly from Dobinson @David Otero.
I think you will be happy with them.

Bilsteins I ordered on Ebay from Deutschland. Ebay.de
but I imagine you check Ebay Italia or UK. Whoever has them on sale or has cheapest shipping.
 
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(LH) Driver's side window works again smoothly.
Seals where hastily replaced by the painter, but the real culprit was the corner seal that sits atop the inside run was bent. There are (2) bolts that hold the vertical run in place at the door panel, but there are an additional (2) screws that sit under the seal that need to come out. If I were betting, this piece got bent by someone trying to pry it out not knowing about the (2) screws under the seal. Anyway it straightened out fairly well and the window rolls up and down with little force. As always thanks to those who have pointed me in the right direction @ALEXY & @RMP&O .

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I decided to make a face for the 3 gauges I purchased and go for a more stock look.
ABS Stock is 1/4" and the template is 25mm at the bottom, 22mm at the top, and 18mm wide.

Additionally, I found decent option for 3rd hole of Instrument Cluster.
While the first 2 gauges are 55mm, the center one is 60mm, but so far this gets a thumbs up for value and versatility. I installed this GPS gauge that reads in MPH or KMPH or NMPH for those water crossings. It also has a volts gauge, odometer, and built in clock. So far, I'm more than happy with it. Takes less than a minute to get a lock on the satellites.

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Very nice Don.
I may have to look into one of those. I just keep my GPS on the window, and I am pretty quick with the conversions.
 
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Thanks, Kris! I wasn't getting any better with the conversions, especially the with the distances, so I threw down the card.
 
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@4runnermods, sorry about the late reply, I was knee deep in another project and have been away for a while.
I can't speak to whether or not this crosses to an 1985 pick-up, but tie rods seem to be some very specific parts.

Sankei Industry Part number is SE-2740LX or 45040-60985X

Those are the numbers for the SET, not left and right. My vehicle is a LH Drive. RH calls for another part.
Just FYI, these 1984-1989 LHD LJ70 tie rods have totally different part numbers than any other Land Cruiser tie rods,
so I wouldn't expect they cross, but who knows.

To get the straight scoop, I'd call Kurt at @cruiseroutfit, seems like he has everything in stock ready to ship to whatever series you may have.

Good luck with it, and hope that helps.
Don

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Dredging up an old subject here, but would you happen to know the part number for the single mass flywheel you used? I've got a friend with a 2LT Hilux Surf with a trashed dual mass flywheel and he wants to convert to single mass. I've dug around a bunch and found some part numbers, but I can't tell if they are the ones for the 6-bolt solid, 8-bolt solid, or 8-bolt dual mass.
 
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@AirheadNut , I believe 1988 and prior used the 6 Bolt and 1989 and later used the 8 bolt crank & flywheel.
I have an 1989 so my first generation 2-LT solid / single mass flywheel was compatible with my 2-LTII engine and crank. Part Number is 13405-59066 (But please do a secondary search. That is the number I have penned down in my notes). If I remember correctly it has 101 teeth on that flywheel.
Not a cheap item. Well over $500 new.
Flywheel Part numbers are buried in DIY in the "crankshaft and piston" section, not power train section.
Hope that helps.
Don
 
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I had a leak on my Injection Pump and took it to the local shop for a rebuild. If anyone is in the Las Vegas area, I can definitely recommend J&S Diesel. It was $700 for a rebuild. More than I expected, but I'd say it is a top notch outfit. 3 day turnaround as well.

I had some issues accessing the Injection Pump mounting bolt closest the engine block. I had to call, 911- @GTSSportsCoupe for the right answer. It takes about 18" of extensions to access that inner bolt. One needs to go all the way out to the firewall to get clean access to the inner Injection Pump bolt (bolt closest to the block). Otherwise, you will just beat your head against the wall, trying to access that bolt.

Also, being a rookie, I had some issues bleeding this injection pump to get it primed & started. I was pumping like a madman at the filter while the wife was cranking the engine, with NO luck getting it primed. Tried the same with #1 & #2 fuel lines cracked open. And again, No Luck.

After a few days of frustration, I called J&S Diesel, and they recommended, cracking all 4 fuel lines at the injectors. As fuel reached the end of each respective line, I tightened up each line. Lines #2 and #4 Bleed first (almost at the same time). I tightened those up. Then #3 Bleed. Tightened that up. #1 line never ever bleed, but the engine wanted to start at that point. So I tighten up #1 and the engine fired right up.

At the beginning, I had #1 and #2 Cracked since they were the most accessible, but I never got fuel at the end of the line at the injector... I was really scratching my head. I was starting to think the Fuel Cutout Solenoid was bad. Bad Diagnosis on my part. If anyone runs into this problem, loosen up all the nuts at the fuel lines at the injector; and tighten them up as they bleed. That solved my issue, anyway. I hope it helps someone.

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Again, make sure you got your proper extension length to reach the bolt closest to the block.
You will be ratcheting all the way from the firewall. Nutty.
And make sure you line-up the markings on the injection pump to the block. Hard to see if the pump isn't clean.
(mine isn't lined up yet in the photo).
Change the timing belt and valve cover gasket while you are at it. Surprisingly, both are available in CONUS.

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I always wanted to have my 2L-T II engine Inter-Cooled. It is crazy how the space under the hood is so different between the LHD and RHD of these vehicles. Most of my friends here on Mud with the LJ70 Series have RHD and have water cooled/meth system. I studied their set-up which is very cool, but it would have never worked in my LHD due to the real estate under the hood. So I came up with something a little different. Not sure if it is the best solution, but I figured I would give it a shot while I had the Injection Pump out of the vehicle,. If I didn't do it now with the IP out of the engine, I wouldn't ever do it. So finally, I got her done.

Instead of going Water-Cooled/Meth Injection, I decided to go FMIC. It looked like it would work from some simple mock ups, so I decided to pull the trigger and give it a shot.

I bought a 24" x 7" Inter-Cooler & 2" / 51mm Universal Pipe Kit. Yes, I had to notch the front core which I wasn't real excited about, but I was eager to lower my EGTs out here in the desert going up grades. 710 degrees Celsius EGT in the summer has always had me a little nervous.

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Backtracking slightly, don't make the same mistake I made, thinking the Injection Pump bolt closest to the block is accessible from the top. I removed the Thermostat Housing - Water Outlet unnecessarily . Wasted quite a bit of time spinning wheels here. Also, I couldn't find the appropriate gasket for the housing anywhere, and had to fab one up. Get that IP nut straight on with the 18" of socket extensions from back near the firewall.

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Back to the parts list for the FMIC, 24"x 7" Intercooler, Universal 2" Intercooler Pipe Kit, (1) 2" 90 Elbow hose, (2) 2" coupler hoses. (3) 2" to 2.5" 90 degree elbow hoses, 1/4" aluminum plate, (1) 3" length of 2.25" ID aluminum pipe, 57mm Hole Saw., a good assortment of 2" and 2.5" hose clamps, and some tube cutters (I used Ridgid 152 Tube Cutter from Home Depot), (2) L Brackets for bottom of FMIC, Silicone Spray.

It would have been nice to have sourced a 24" x 7" Intercooler with 2" Inlet/Outlet, but I could only find a 24" x 7" size intercooler with 2.5" I/O. If you able to find an FMIC with 2" I/O, you will still need (1) 2.5" 90 degree elbow. The Intake Manifold opening is 57mm/ 2.25" as opposed to the turbo exit over the valve cover with is approximately 2".

All the piping for this system lays out fairly simply. One of the stock coolant lines for the turbo is tilted up to clear the A/C that is not there. This prevents the 180 degree tube coming off the turbo from laying perfectly parallel to the valve cover. Other than that, the tubes can be cut and mocked up in an hour or two. You can notch the front core in a hour to two as well.

The time consuming part of this project is not getting the tubing to layout nicely, but fabricating a new Throttle Cable Bracket and moving the battery approximately 3 inches toward the firewall so it doesn't interfere with the piping coming off the FMIC to the Intake Manifold.

Mount the FMIC first. There are 4 mounting points included on the IC which make things nice. Those points just hold the IC square in the core. The Radiator, once bolted in will prevent the IC from moving backwards. I used washers to get the proper spacing for the height of the IC. Be careful not to bottom the bolts out, it may strip out the threads of the IC or bottom out and punch a hole in the IC.

Then just pick a side to work on and start cutting the tube to length. A little silicon spray makes is easy to get the hoses on and off while making small adjustments to the tube lengths. Otherwise, those silicone hoses really have some grabbing power.

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Thanks a lot Kris! It was a bit painful, but finally got her done. Actually the piping was the easy part... it was just everything else. I'll post some more pics.. Hopefully it helps and LHD guy.
 

GTSSportCoupe

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Nice work Don! I'm glad you got this all done and the truck is running well. Intercoolers are such a great investment for these motors.

Just a thought: You'll get more efficient airflow through your intercooler if you can move your horns to the side or below it....
 
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Then just starting laying out your IC tubing and start cutting. I found this to be the most enjoyable part of the project, seeing everything coming together. The new tube cutters go through these aluminum tubes like butter, 3-4 turns, so cut conservatively. It takes way longer to pull a tube out of silicone hose than it does to cut a tube. Use silicone spray on the connections to make life easier.

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