Builds 2L-T vs 2L-TII LJ70 Build

[ALEXY]

my memory tells me the yellow plastic part is original, the white one looks alien.
my oil gauge was showing zero at idle. had a garage to measure it, told me its normal and I plainly bent the metal blade to show bit more, since was unnerving to see zero.
surely, an aftermarket gauge is the answer.

as for voltage, the fuel or temp gauge has built in it a voltage convertor from 12v to 7v.
I am not sure if the pressure one shares 7 v or not, but fuel and temp run on 7.

the convertor oxidise or freaks out and generates spikes.
search the 60 side of forum for temperature spike.

hope this helps.

 

[Dprio34]

Thanks for that Alexy, I appreciate it.
Any idea why "24 volts" stamped on the Volts gauge?
Same gauge both 12v and 24v systems?

 

[Dprio34]

After I installed the new stalk / wiper switch, I now have wipers to use on road trips since it almost never rains here.
I never had the wiper reservoir filled since the Spray feature didn't work on the old stalk.
After filling the reservoir it had a serious leak. The culprit was a $3 grommet. New grommet installed and Spray now works fantastically.
While I was under there, I installed new bumpers for the hood.

 

[ALEXY]

if you are there, look for the two front hood bumpers as well, they are round shape. my old ones were rock hard.

nice to see you treat your truck with "goodies"

 

[Dprio34]

Well, for a while now I have been planning to do a new exhaust on the LJ70. I had planned on doing a right side mounted / right side exiting (exiting in front of the rear tire versus out the back under the bumper / stock location). I was under the impression such a system would be more "free-flowing, less restrictive, and cooler." Such a system would benefit an engine that has a bad reputation of running hot.

That said, I've done 4 test drives to compare EGTs Levels on the very same highway which has a 3500' elevation change over 21 miles and a 7% grade at the final 2 miles.

The test results are in and I think I am going to leave things well enough alone, ie,
in their stock location, unless anyone can talk me out of it.

Test Drive #1: Max EGT 665 doing the entire climb in 5th Gear.
Test Drive #2: Max EGT 576 doing the entire climb in 4th Gear.
Test Drive #3: Max EGT 552 with Ram Duct Modified & Stock Exhaust System in place.
Test Drive #4: Max EGT 551 with Ram Duct Modified & Stock Exhaust Removed (only straight pipe of Exhaust Section #1)
Test Drive #5: Max EGT 505 with 33" tires, in 4th gear and speed under 75KMPH/45MPH (no one behind me of course).

On Test Drive #3, Boost was relatively steady at 9.5 psi to 10.5
On Test Drive #4, Boost seemed erratic, fluctuating between 8.0 psi and 11.5 psi

I can only conclude some type of back pressure from the stock muffler system helped maintain a more constant Boost level.
I would also conclude, had the Boost been more constant on the final run, I would have seen higher EGTs than 551.

On the drive home today on level highway, Boost only developed 7.0psi @ 2850 RMP versus the 8.0psi @ 2850 RPM with the stock exhaust system in place. The lower boost of 7psi did produce a lower EGT of 360 versus an EGT of 400 with 8psi of Boost.

It is also worth noting, Water Temp never got over 83.5 Celsius on any run, averaging 81.0 degrees on each climb. I credit that to a Toyota thermostat and rebuilt brass radiator.

Noise Level was acceptable with with straight pipes with the window rolled up, but on the loud side with the right window down. It is nice to hear the turbo wind up, but other than that, I think I prefer it quiet. (I'm obviously too old).

I understand most 70 Series drivers don't care about any of this data since it is from a 2L-TII. But I thought I'd post it away just in case anyone gets any crazy ideas about modifying a perfectly good exhaust system. I probably had another 5 years in the muffler I just cut out of the back. I'm sort of kicking myself now. Nonetheless, I'm gonna sleep on this a few days and decide if I want to run the glass pack out the side or fab up a new #3 section of the exhaust. On a positive side, I was able to wiggle out the #2 section without damaging it.

 

[ALEXY]

well, surely interesting for those with 2lt engines in their trucks!

i just ordered a new aftermarket exhaust line with same specs with factory (375 euro in germany) and Ill get it installed in march. the brand is imasaf, an ebay pick, produced in italy somewhere. claimed to be oem for alfa romeo? its aluminized steel, so nothing very fancy.
as far as I understand ,the final silencer section is discontinued by toyota for our spec lj.

water temp on mine definitely climbs more, but manage to have egt usually no more then 600-650 post loader (still loads) on ups.

 

[Dprio34]

Alexy, I may hit the pause button until you get yours. I'm curious if the rear muffler section you ordered arrives in 2 sections or as 1 piece. The pics on Ebay look like it is one piece, and I am afraid to ask what shipping would be on that.

My exhaust had a "newer" muffler welded in at some point, as the welds were not factory. It was impossible to wiggle out the rear section (that has the muffler attached), without cutting unfortunately. I am very interested in what arrives / how it ships.

Please send part number and pics when it arrives. I am curious how this bolts up (if everything lines up straight out of the box).

Thanks again for your input!
Don

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

When I went from the factory exhaust to 2.5" exhaust I saw a 150F degree EGT drop. However, I also honed out the dump pipe which is one of the worst restrictions. My exhaust is quite long too, with lots of bends. Also, my pyrometer is in the dump pipe. So maybe the EGT drop was only after the turbo, and not before.

There is a lot of technical stuff in designing a good exhaust. Short and open is not necessarily the best. Having the right exhaust velocity is important. Too much back pressure or too little is not good. How much air/fuel your shoving into the motor has a lot to do with it as well. Lots of reading on teh interwebs on this topic....

 

[Dprio34]

Nick, Do you have any pics of how you honed out the dump pipe?
I'm Curious how much material you removed.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Nick, Do you have any pics of how you honed out the dump pipe?
I'm Curious how much material you removed.

I might, I'll have to look back in the archives.... I think the largest I could get it was 2 1/4". I think it was 2" to start. I did most of the honing where the dump pipe connects to the down pipe.

I actually bought a dump pipe flange in hopes I'd find time to make a custom dump. Never got around to it.... I think Jarrat did though.

 

[Dprio34]

I've seen a couple custom dump pipes on the web.
At this point just skeptical of the gain versus the time involved.
I'm sure they are worth a couple degrees though, especially at higher boost levels, but
I think I'm gonna stick to the 10-11 psi that my CT-20 is currently putting out.

Honing the stock flange is something, I'd be very interested in doing.

Thanks again, Nick!

 

[Dprio34]

My front tires have better getting wet with gear oil for a few weeks now, so I decided to rebuild the front axles.
The rebuild kit arrived today from Cruiser Outfitters.
@cruiseroutfit , Thanks Kurt!

I started tearing down the right side axle today since there was still some daylight left after the package delivery.

The slotted cone washers were seated a bit more than I expected.
More unscrewing involved than hammering with a brass drift.
I'm leaning toward getting new ones since the old ones seems to act more like screws than washers.

Other than that one issue, the right side came apart fairly easily.
Hope to get her cleaned up and put back together tomorrow.
(At least the right side).

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Yeah, it was time for a rebuild

 

[Nas90tdi]

I take a brass hammer and whack the bolts lightly from different directions. That will usually unseat a really stuck cone washer.

 

[Dprio34]

A couple of my cone washers look like toast. That makes me feel a little better, like this thing has been rebuilt a few times
over the past 28 years or so. At $3.50 per cone, that is a bit pricey, so I'll probably only replace a few of the worst ones.

I was expecting Moly #2 mixed with 90 weight to come pouring out when I got everything off, but it wasn't too bad. Only a 1/2 roll of Bounty Quicker Picker Upper and she was pretty clean.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Nice work!

FYI: Another easy way to release those cone washers (all at once) is to hit the whole hub housing with a hammer and brass drift in a clockwise or counter clockwise direction. The washers will all loosen effortlessly. Learned that from my friend who is a machinist and owns and HDJ81. Works like a hot damn.

 

[Dprio34]

The Front Axle rebuild is taking longer than I originally thought it would. The front calipers need to be rebuilt and the front flexible brake hoses need to be replaced upon closer inspection. Transfer Case has a small leak as does the front axle pinion. New parts are filtering in and progress is being made. Pulled and cleaned from calipers & pistons today.

EDIT: Front Disc Pad Kit part number has changed from: 04491-35080 to 04465-35170 for Pre-1990 LJ70s and crosses with 1984 - 1986 4Runners & ASIN# A1N017.

 

[Dprio34]

Front Piñon Parts arrived today as well. Still waiting on front flex brake hoses.

 

[Dprio34]

Driver's Side Recline Cable broke on my trip to the Baja last month. Ironically it was within 5 minutes of my REI tent pole snapping. I wasn't real happy at the time, but such are things.
It could have been worse I guess, but at least the recline cable snapped in a good location (exactly where my seat back usually sits). So the ride home was comfortable at least.

New cable arrived today.

View attachment 1652722

 

[ALEXY]

If front brake hoses are "toast", what is the likelyhood the other 4 hoses are any better?
the two connecting body with chassis, that you see from the engine bay side are often overlooked, but surely same age with the rest.
I had to change all six.