I dont know if glyptal on the 2F would be of much help, since there is really not that much oil getting up top.
I think balancing is a must. These motors are low reving motors, but it helps with wear and tear, and makes the idle soooo smooth. to the point that properly tuned you can barely tell they are running in the cab.
As for cryogenics, I dunno. I would be afraid of any heat/cold treating process b/c of core shift, but if your willing to check main bore alignment and block squareness after, go for it.
Got the cam in, but since it was a one man operation the other night only before and after pics.
1: install thrust plate and cam gear. check thrust clearance with feeler as shown earlier in thread.
2: clean any storage oil/wax/whatever off the cam and liberally apply the cam lube. This isnt a schnieder cam, but I used their lube for the cam and lifters. Its a pretty thick grease, and the little plastic container has more than enough to coat all the lobes all the way around and the lifter mating surfaces.
3: Lube the cam bearings with regular assembly lube.
4: Roll the crank shaft over to a position you can get your hand down along side it to help guide the cam into the bearings without banging the lobes all over the bearings.
5: Take your time inserting the cam. I like to get it in far enough each time to rest a bearing journal on the bearings in the block, so about 1/3 of the way each time I reposition the crank. The middle section is a pain if you installed the oil pump mounting block...FYI.
6: Just as the cam is about to slide into the last bearing, rest it gently on the bearings, and line up the timing marks. On this motor, the crank gear was the TEQ logo, and the cam gear has the dot.
7: Insert the rest of the way, double check the alignment and then install the two thrust plate bolts. Torque to specs and your done.
8: CHECK oil squirter hole alignment. The one on this motor was off by what seemed like about 30 degrees.
