2020 Magnuson Supercharger... Well Maybe...... (2 Viewers)

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Per the post I saw online they are stopping orders on 9/25. So I wounder is they don't get their 50 pre orders at 6.7K if they are going to scrap the idea or if they are going to carry the extra units and try to find ignorant new 80 owners to pray on?

I'm not buying manufacturing costs went up that much in the last 3 years.......
 
And my point is that $6-7k for a bolt on is 1/3 the cost of a new engine and trans installed, which is superior if your goals and desire are power.

Hell it was only $5k back in 2007 for the TRD S\C, URD ECU and 7th injector, URD small pulley and Jardine SS mandrel exhaust along with TRD spec thermostat, LC Engineering TB spacer, running 14psi, blah blah blah.

Me personally, $6-7k for a bolt on charger is simply not worth it. S/C pictured above on the diesel is a Sprintex, it was $1600, turbo was a custom built Garret T3, it cost $1800. It’s cool that the S/C and turbo are available for the 1FZ and works for some people but I see better ways to spend my money if I want more power. The GTurbo Bad Boy red wheel (27psi), injection pump overhaul with mods to suit 250rwhp, injectors fully rebuilt plus shipping to and from Australia was $5k for an FT we are building now. Not to mention the ftlbs of torque it will put out.

Cheers

That’a all good under the hood, but if you are behind enemy lines in the Western DMZ of the People’s Republic of Kalifornia, having a CARB sticker comes at severe premium.
 
Funny. I offered to buy 50 if they’d bring back the 1FZ-FE supercharger, and they took 2 months to say. “Can’t”.

I have it on good authority that someone else tried as well, so ... I doubt Magnusun will. If they have or do, likely anyone who distributes them will price-match the turbo, so you’ll still be ahead following the @NLXTACY path.

I tried to get them to do a large order as well back in Jan/March of last year and they got back to me in a few weeks and said they aren't ever bringing it back.

That's when I called Joey and begged him to let me pre-pre order a turbo kit! Best decision i ever made!

Edit: I offered to buy 25 and find distrib's for the other 25. My pockets are obviously not as deep as yours lol.
 
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Thank you for showing this math. I have often wondered how and why top fuel cars ran methanol when it was such a problem when mixing ethanol with gasoline (yes, I realize methanol and ethanol are different).

Understanding the "why" one works better due to the Stoichiometry of the products.

Top Fuel classes (TF Dragster and TF Funny Car) run superchargers and nitromethane. Running methanol in Top Fuel would make you non-competitive, as its heads-up (no handicap) racing.

Top Alcohol Dragster allow one to choose between running “fuel” (nitromethane) without a blower or methanol with a blower and a three-speed transmission. There are other differences (car weight, allowed displacement) as well.

With the right tune, “fuel” will make more power than methanol plus a blower, but it’s also finicky as hell. You have to have al “feel” for changing the tune of the car as the temperature/humidity/Barometric pressure changes. Any competitive team will have a deep database of notes on every run.

You’re welcome, too.
 
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This is not as easy as bolting on a turbo in a weekend. You have to admit that you've done some head gasket jobs on the development of this turbo.

If I were to go turbo, I would be upgrading the head studs and doing the head gasket sooner or later. It's still slapping a turbo on an old engine. To me this is the cheap band aid route to more power. Swap is the way to go.

Oh, and per that ripoff price for the the old TRD, I'd rather buy this instead:
 
If I were to go turbo, I would be upgrading the head
studs and doing the head gasket sooner or later.
I did, but that engine was just starting to push the seals, so I knew the head gasket was going. Cometic, ARP head studs and a head rebuild.
 
Without fuel management I am truly perplexed as to how it can be dialed in. S/C or turbo, turbo obviously better but still. Sounds like not many if any guys monitor their EGTs but what I have heard from the local guy who does monitor EGTs with all the goodies, he sees 1600* easily. That is way to high for me. And if I search and read threads, sure sounds like heat is a real issue when boosting the 1FZFE. Hell man, non-boosted, lots of guys have trouble keeping temps under control. Ya, no thanks, a simple timing adjustment allows me to get enough power to pull grades at 70+mph no probs up to 5,000+ft in elevation. It is a cost to hp analysis for me. At nearly $100 per hp gained with risk of overheating to drive it like I want to, it just is not making sense.

So no thanks, I just spent well over $10k on a new engine, no way I am throwing those kind of heat numbers at it, ever.

What do I know though, my experience is with diesels and that is not the same. Throw those kind of EGTs at a diesel and good luck getting 10,000 miles out of it before it implodes. That’s is the great thing about a diesel though, way easier to tune, control temps and keep EGTs under control. You don’t need no ECU on any Toyota diesel until you go 1HDFTE.

Cheers
 
Throw those kind of EGTs at a diesel and good luck getting 10,000 miles out of it before it implodes.

What in the heck are you talking about m8?

I learned to drive on a 1966 Diamond Rio with a 335 Cummins that had more than a smidge of advance and a smaller than stock “button” (bypass orafice) in the pump. 5x4 transmission. It was 1979, and I was 17. It was a hot rod for a truck. No ECU, no DEF, none of that BS.

seat belts? LOL.
power steering? LOL. Keep your thumbs out of the spokes.
It didn’t even have brakes on the front axle. And yes, completely legal in that condition.

The word from dad (he and grandpa owned the truck and the company) was “no smoke, and don’t drive the pyrometer too far above 1600F”. He was constant about the“no smoke” part. It was was the larger Issue. Load a Diesel engine up with fuel and way too much cylinder pressure is generated, along with soot from the incomplete combustion. Ya gotta let up a bit before you crest the hill too, as running downhill, throwing a bunch of cold air onto really hot parts (valve stems, seats) is not a recipe for longevity.

I was taught to drive it like there is an egg on the pedal (a story in itself), and don’t build too big a fire in it.

On a diesel, 1600F is fine. 2100F is death. There’s an art to it, and it’s all about your right foot, though the ECU does it all for you today, and you can just stomp on the pedal and let the computer drive. It won’t let you “roll coal” without mods.

On a gasoline engine, if you’re running higher than 1400-1450F, I suspect one or more of: too much boost (Joey’s kit is 7PSI, which is fairly safe), fuel mixtures are too lean or timing is too retarded.

But it’s still about your right foot.

p.s.: I’m dropping a 1HD-FTE in a lx450, with a bunch of aftermarket (PDI and gturbo) mods. I ain’t skerd, except for the clutch in between the FTE and the H151F. Dyno run soon.
 
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Sounds like they are just using the m90 compressor. If it was a lysolm type compressor I could see 7k, but not for a m90. The m90 while a ok design for its day is left in the dust by more efficient compressors. If you can do basic fab work, you could probably use a m90 off of a 90s pontiac or buick and make it fit the 1fz for less than 2k. Maybe even less than 1k.
This is exactly what I am doing. These old M90s sell for 50 dollars at the swap-meet. They are in every junkyard in Kalifornia. I am going to be building 3 superchargers.
 
Funny. I offered to buy 50 if they’d bring back the 1FZ-FE supercharger, and they took 2 months to say. “Can’t”.

I have it on good authority that someone else tried as well, so ... I doubt Magnusun will. If they have or do, likely anyone who distributes them will price-match the turbo, so you’ll still be ahead following the @NLXTACY path.
I was the other individual who offered to buy 50. I am a doctor here in SOCAL and love spending my time off work in the middle of nowhere in my rig with my family. I even sent bank statements to show I have 50 percent of the money in checking and the rest in savings. They said they didn’t want me to occur a loss. There is severe interest for this product. So I am going to make them myself and charge cost. I don’t need the money. I just love the hobby. Please let me know if you would like to team up.
 
The way you talk it is obvious that you and Dr. Suess went to school together. :flipoff2: lol

I was the other individual who offered to buy 50. I am a doctor here in SOCAL and love spending my time off work in the middle of nowhere in my rig with my family. I even sent bank statements to show I have 50 percent of the money in checking and the rest in savings. They said they didn’t want me to occur a loss. There is severe interest for this product. So I am going to make them myself and charge cost. I don’t need the money. I just love the hobby. Please let me know if you would like to team up.
 
Not east coast not sure where you got that. I live in Washington state and was in SLC prior to that.

Thanks Scott. I take that as a compliment from an East Coast nurse such as yourself.
 
I have a nursing license but have been in school to become a doctor of nursing anesthesia DNAP for 3 years. That is all well documented here on mud.

So you are saying you are not a nurse. Is that correct?
 
For 7k I'm going to buy an e30 and engine swap it, and have way more fun in it than a supercharged LC.
Probably can do the same for 4k too lol


EDIT: Also restarting production is very expensive, making new molds and space for the new product isn't cheap, I can see the 7k price tag being reasonable. If this product takes off with a 50 trial batch, there is no reason Magnuson will scrap their production, so I will expect they will produce kits at cheaper price moving forward, as long as there's appropriate demand.
 

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