2006 Land Cruiser P0330 - Knock Sensor Drama at the Dealer

[Tx2006LC]

Howdy Ya'll

Long time reader and consumer of these great posts, first time poster.

Looking for some insight on my 2006 Land Cruiser (VVT-i) and a P0330 error.

The Background​

• Check engine light came on, scanned it with BlueDriver, and got P0330 (Knock Sensor 2 - Bank 2).
• Cleared the code a few times, but it kept coming back quickly.
• Noticed a definite loss of power—seems like the ECU is cutting power in failsafe mode.
• Scheduled a diagnostic with Toyota ($185, waived if they do the work).

Dealer’s Diagnosis & Quote 1​

• They confirmed what I expected: rear knock sensor needs replacing.
• Quote: $901 for the rear knock sensor replacement.
• I asked, “Since you’re already in there, what about replacing both sensors?”
• New Quote: $1,468 for both.
• That seemed high, so I asked for a labor breakdown.
  • Was told it’s $92 more in labor to do both, but the math didn’t add up.
• After some back-and-forth, they reworked the numbers and came back with $1,032 for both sensors + labor. They said thier new computer system was malfunctioning on the price. That new price made more sense, so I gave them the green light to start.

Dealer’s Call Back - New Price Jump to $1,802​

• They now say the knock sensor wire was chewed through and needs repair.
• They no longer recommend replacing both sensors—just fixing the damaged wire and one sensor.
• But… the price jumped to $1,802?!
  • Removing the starter & air injection to access the wire = another $1,000 in labor.
  • No clear explanation for the price increase when one sensor was removed from the quote.

Things That Don’t Add Up​

1. Did they actually do a $185 diagnostic, or did they just read the code? Wouldn’t they have seen the chewed wire in the first place?
2. I also suggested replacing the knock sensor connectors & wiring instead of just soldering them, since they’re 20 years old and brittle.
3. They told me Toyota no longer makes the knock sensor connectors and they can’t order them.
   • I called O’Reilly’s, and they have aftermarket knock sensor connectors.
   • Dealer says they can’t use non-Toyota parts but also can’t get Toyota parts—so their solution is to reuse 20-year-old wiring that is frail, and brittle, and likely to break?

Gasket Confusion​

• I asked if any gaskets need replacing (intake manifold, fuel plenum, etc.), and the service manager seemed confused.
• Shouldn’t at least the intake manifold & water bypass gaskets be replaced when doing this job?

What Else Should I Replace?​

While everything is off, I was thinking about doing the following:
Both Knock Sensors (OEM)
Knock Sensor Wiring Harness/Connectors
Intake Manifold Gaskets
Front & Rear Water Bypass Gaskets
Coolant Temperature Sensor & Connector
Starter (since it’s already being removed)

Questions for the Community:​

1. Are these prices reasonable, or does this seem way off?
2. What else should I replace while everything is apart?
3. Has anyone dealt with Toyota saying they can’t get knock sensor connectors?

I feel like I’m dealing with a dealer that doesn’t work on Toyotas much, and I’m hesitant to trust their process. Appreciate any advice from those who have been through this before!

 

[Tx2006LC]

An I being double or triple billed for the same labor?

 

[fjc-man]

Your rig is 20 years old and has mouse chew. I think the initial estimate was to scare you off. Now you have to see it through. Next time consider doing it yourself, unless it’s your daily driver and you don’t want to rush it. Some of the techs at the dealership aren’t much older than your landcruiser, they’re used to working on newer vehicles, they are familiar with and stuff that readily comes apart.

 

[DuckLN]

I would think you could depin and repin the knock sensor connectors (with new oem connectors) without removing the starter. But…. If you’re goin in there you should replace the starter and both knock sensor connectors for sure.

I did the starter and knock sensors on my 2000 lc myself and i broke about 7 brittle connectors but they’re very easy to depin and repin with a pick.

 

[Marshmallow]

Labour to get to the starter or the knock sensors is the same. Once there, removing the starter is a sub 1 hour job. I replaced a knock sensor (it disintegrated) and a knock sensor connector (aftermarket plug, depinned the wires). I also found a mouse nest in the valley where the starter and knock sensors live. Knock sensors are a 2 minute job to replace, barring issues with the brittle plugs.

 

[2001LC]

Unfortunate software doesn't allow for overlapping services. But service manager can and should without being asked, as he writes up and as can tech.

When I started my hobby restoring 100 series. It was with a 2001 LX470, with same DTC (knock sensor) wire chew. I learned about and fell in love with, the all in one butt soldier splicers. Most tech just use a crush type, butt connect (junk connect).


Over the years. I've found rodent nest under intake manifolds, all to often. Rodent chew a lot of wires, not just under intake manifold. It's a very common repair. To day, I'm deal with sand wasp mud nest issues. Wildlife does it's damage, that is for sure!

I'm very surprised they say this knock sensor wire housing block (WHB), NLA. I don't have P/N for it. But the knock sensor was the new design in 2005 and its had updated P/N # since. It is used in more than 343 Toyota/Lexus engine since 2005. This would indicate likely production today. Even if not. a very very high number would have been made at time of vehicle manufactured and warehoused. Ask them for picture of the P/N number (sufix), from your knock sensor wire housing block. Add to that the prefix 90980-****** to get P/N #. OEM is also better than aftermarket. And with WHB often cheaper.

ECT sensor should be fine and easy to get at anytime. But if it's wire housingblock, busted or any that are, replace them. It is mostly, the plastic locking clips that breaks off housings. I almost always, replace the starter single wires WHB.

Starter does not need be removed, for knock sensor. But a while your in there, good idea if say over 150K miles. They tend to go out around 250k on a HWY/city DD. It is, mostly how how many starts and how long each crank to start.

Rear water bypass joint, doesn't need to be removed. But Toyota FSM does call for, during starter R&R. Makes getting starter R&R, a tad easier. But increase time and parts for the job.

Here's the big must do while in there, IMHO:
What I do not see in your while in there. Is what IMHO, is very important. S.A.I. pump (blower motor), which is only way to get, the filter within it. Unless you have them do, my easily replaceable filter modifications. This is so important in all 06-07 100 series. In fact, all Toyota engine from ~2005-up, which uses the S.A.I. system to meet pollution laws. The lexus GX460 was recalled, for this filter failing. IMHO all toyota/lexus, with same filter should be recalled. This little filters failure can and will, with time/miles. Result in a lot of damage. in the 100 series, it can do $20K in damage, at yesterday's prices.

 

[Tx2006LC]

Thanks for the fantastic response. I am a bit new to a lot of the things you are saying but have more questions.

This is the local large Toyota dealership service department. So I’m asking them to perform this work. I do not have the car at home and this felt out of my scope since it’s my daily. And work has been crazy.

What does NLA stand for?

Since the shop already has the intake off…I’m trying to figure out what to tell them to repair.

I saw Honda sells this rodent tape that is supposed to keep rodents away. Would this help? https://www.alldiscountparts.com/oem-parts/honda-tape-rodent-19mm-20m-40192317

They said the starter and air injection needed to be removed to solder the wire connectors to the knock sensor. But sounds like you are saying that isn’t the case?

I’ll have them order a starter as well

Should I have them replace the SAI pump blower motor or can they replace the filter?

And for the connector wires, would I need to buy new wires and have them use the connectors and hosing from the new ones on the old wires?

 

[Tx2006LC]

Thanks for giving me some ideas.

I’ve been trying to locate some part numbers for the knock sensor connector for the 2006 Land Cruiser but also for other Toyota 4.7L engines. Was thinking a 2008+ sequoia, 2005+ 4.7 L tundra lx470, etc

I found this part number. I am wondering if this is part of what would work

90980-11875 for the end connector?
Or maybe this 82219-34010

82219-34010 Genuine Toyota Wire, Sensor

ToyotaPartsDeal.com offers the great deal for genuine Toyota parts 82219-34010 (8221934010) Wire, Sensor. All parts are backed by the Toyota's warranty.

www.toyotapartsdeal.com

Do these look right?

or perhaps this

82219-48010

or perhaps this

82219-48010

Or this from a 2008+ sequoia 822190C020

 

[2001LC]

Thanks for the fantastic response. I am a bit new to a lot of the things you are saying but have more questions.

Okay, I answer your question here. I do understand it can be confusing. But, all was in my post above and links I provided within.

This is the local large Toyota dealership service department. So I’m asking them to perform this work. I do not have the car at home and this felt out of my scope since it’s my daily. And work has been crazy.

If you don't trust them move it to shop you do.
If I was you. I'd, today, go get pictures of area under intake manifold and ask questions.

1. Inside all 8 intake ports (first pic below blue shop towel stuff in them) of head. looking for dust/sand.
2. Chewed wires.
3. Inside opening of S.A.I. pump, to see filter. (see my S.A.I mod link)
4. Numbers on wire housing blocks (plug end of chewed wires)
5. Ask how long service manager and mechanic have been working there. (good shops keep people very long term, bad turn over a lot)
6. See if willing to do the S.A.I. mod. (Expanding their knowledge)

Come back here, post pictures and statement. The will see if you should stay there or move it.

What does NLA stand for?

No Longer Available = NLA

Since the shop already has the intake off…I’m trying to figure out what to tell them to repair.

If you trust, sure.

I saw Honda sells this rodent tape that is supposed to keep rodents away. Would this help? https://www.alldiscountparts.com/oem-parts/honda-tape-rodent-19mm-20m-40192317

They said the starter and air injection needed to be removed to solder the wire connectors to the knock sensor. But sounds like you are saying that isn’t the case?

I’ll have them order a starter as well

They need to remove the SAI pump and main switching valve assemble, to expose the knock sensors and wires. The starter is not in the way. But if they say it must removed. Than they have it's labor cost in estimate already. So the starter will only be a parts cost.

Here's VVti engine. That is the starter with green tag. Forward of starter are the two black knock sensors, bolted on the block. You see; dirty white and a dark gray wire housing block, on ends of wires. Those wires are what likely chewed. But it possible the rodent chew further back, requiring more room to work. In the picture. The rear water bypass joint (RWBJ) is removed, and new gaskets are sitting in place on RWBJ. Removing RWBJ, gives more access to wires. There's a small bolt hold the plastic block all those wires are bunched in/going into. Removing that small bolts, give even more room to left up wires and work.

Here is some (happens to be non VVT) pictures. Where knock sensor wire chewed, than repaired in place. You can see starter in place and plenty of room to get at knock sensors.

Repair completed. New wire housing blocks, with new pigtails (wire with connector end), butt solder connectors, taped.

Should I have them replace the SAI pump blower motor or can they replace the filter?

The filter is only sold as part of the S.A.I. pump (blower motor). To replace the Toyota filter, the intake manifold must be removed and SAI pump replaced.
So either replace the SAI pump periodically. Costly! Also how often, depend on many factors. So annual or biannual inspection is needed.

OR

Modify the S.A.I. pump, by removing factory filter and installing a customized replaceable filter. (S.A.I. Mod)

Whomever is now working on your engine with intake manifold off. Can read the link here in mud or you can print for them, and they can do the modification adding the replaceable filter. With intake manifold already off. 1 hr and $100 parts max. Which is much cheaper than cost of a new S.A.I pump (AKA: A.I pump, SAI blower, etc.)

Here's what looks like under intake manifold off of VVti (06-07) 100 series, with everything in place as factory design.

With replaceable S.A.I. filter mod (yellow line). S.A.I air pressure sensor, circled in red.

With intake manifold on, without S.A.I. filter mod

With intake manifold on, and with S.A.I. filter mod

And for the connector wires, would I need to buy new wires and have them use the connectors and hosing from the new ones on the old wires?

Often we can reuse wire housing block. We only need to splice the wire. Other times we can depin wires from wire housing block and reuse.

If wire chew all the way to wire housing, without enough wire remaining to splice. New wire(s) are need with connector on end (pigtails). When I order new wire housing blocks. My parts guy includes the proper pigtails, if I want them.

If going after market, they come with or sold separately.

Thanks for giving me some ideas.

I’ve been trying to locate some part numbers for the knock sensor connector for the 2006 Land Cruiser but also for other Toyota 4.7L engines. Was thinking a 2008+ sequoia, 2005+ 4.7 L tundra lx470, etc

I found this part number. I am wondering if this is part of what would work

90980-11875 for the end connector?
Or maybe this 82219-34010

82219-34010 Genuine Toyota Wire, Sensor

ToyotaPartsDeal.com offers the great deal for genuine Toyota parts 82219-34010 (8221934010) Wire, Sensor. All parts are backed by the Toyota's warranty.

www.toyotapartsdeal.com

Do these look right?

You can keep guessing and buying wire housing blocks, and see if they fit. Or have the shop or you go to shop. Get picture of wire housing block. On it, is 5 numbers. Add the prefix 90980- plus numbers from the wire housing block (suffix). Which is the part number (aka: P/N, PN)

Here's a several example of a suffix (5 numbers) P/N found on all (not the one you're looking for) wire housing blocks.
Last 5 numbers

A little understanding, can go a long way. To help you understand what's needed and if a good shop.

Good luck!

 

[Tx2006LC]

Here is a video of the disassembly for diagnosis. App - https://dlrlnk.com/vcY5pKbFf8J8

Let me know if you can view this. This is where they say the rats chewed the wires.

What was explained to me, was where he chewing occurred is part of the Knock Sensor. So it needs to be replaced. To me it looks like the connector wire or pigtail where the rat damage took place. They also said the Wiring harness is what has been chewed and has the damage, so rather than replace the whole harness, they will solder the wiring harness wires. The service manager also told me Toyota does not have a part number for a connector/pigtail, and the Knock Sensor and pigtail assembly come as one piece.

 

[Tx2006LC]

Thanks again 2001LC and Crew!

UPDATE: It sounds like they chewed the knock sensor, and a couple of the other wires. Recommendation is to replace the Knock sensor, and solder the wires.

What other jobs would make sense to do while in this area?

1. Replace Starter
2. Air Intake Blower filter replace( I am not sure Toyota would perform your custom job 2001LC, but looks really interesting, i will keep reading up on that. Also may not possible based on parts availability.)
3. Clean intake ports - Carb/brake cleaner?
4. Replace Heater T's and hoses
5. Wrap wires/harness with rodent tape - 4019-2317 - Genuine Honda Tape,Rodent 19MM 20M - https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~tape~rodent~19mm~20m~4019-2317.html?gQT=1
6. Replace other Knock Sensor. Sensor 1

They mentioned the valve covers are leaking a tiny but of oil. Should I ask them to tighten to spec, or can I just do that myself easily once I get my LC back? Toyota Serve Department said they did not want to tighten them, as that would make leak worse and squash the gasket more. I read on here that often improves the issues as a band aid.

Looks like you were involved in this one 2001LC and helped gungriffin
- Valve Cover gasket leak? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/valve-cover-gasket-leak.1136017/ and the Valve Cover Tips

Any recommendations on should I do this myself? Sounds like can be done, unrelated to the knock sensor removal. Should I tighten the valve cover bolts to INCH LB. 53IN-lbf, which is ~4.4LB-lbf?

 

[Tx2006LC]

If the rear water bypass joint it fine, does it just make sense to replace the 2 gaskets for RWBP? Or should i spend the extra $180 and replace the metal joint itself?

Also, are there any other hoses in that area that should be replaced?

 

[DuckLN]

You have to stop somewhere on a job like this but yes you can do it yourself if you’ve got tools time and youtube. When you break a wiring connector of some kind don’t panic - easy peezy japaneezy depin and repin with oem plug.

 

[Kofoed]

TLDR

I replaced the knock sensor connector with pig tails (1999) model. Problem is it is buried and a lot of parts need to be removed to get to it. Starter is $$$ but is right there when doing the knock senors.

Knock Sensor Connector 90980-11166

Knock Sensor Wire Lead 82998-12440

 

[DuckLN]

Our local yota dealer in Little Rock had all of the connector plugs in stock and they’re about $8 each. To get the manifold off there are quite a few plugs that have to be disconnected and several of mine shattered while I was squeezing to disconnect.

 

[Tx2006LC]

UPDATE - Just got my LC back from Toyota Dealership, and 3 new codes popped on less than 20 miles after driving.

The Check Engine light, the VSC Trac and VSC Off lights both came on, and stayed on.I ran the codes and got the following:

1. P1442
2. P1445
3. P2441

If they had the Air Intake removed during the Knock sensor and Wire Soldering, how likely is it that something the dealership did, or didn't do would throw these codes. This has to be directly related to what they did.

Update on previous work
Toyota performed the rear knock sensor replacement, and soldered the wires for 2.5 hours of assembly and reassembly, and 3.5 hours of soldering. However, they performed this work without even calling me, or consulting me, or asking if they can perform the work.

I am disappointed that the Toyota dealership replaced one knock sensor, and soldered the wires without doing the other knock sensor, the starter, the heater T's and hoses like we had spoke about.

They told me it was their mistake that they put the truck back together without doing the other work they talked about. They also said they had performed the work to replace the knock sensor and solder the wires without consulting me, and getting my consent before proceeding. So many red flags at this dealership.

The Service Center Manager said when I bring the truck back, they will do the starter, the other knock sensor, and the other work including the heater T's and Rear water bypass gaskets for just the cost of the parts, no labor to go back in there and re-do everything.

 

[SteveH]

and 3.5 hours of soldering

Presumably they were busy mining the lead and tin and harvesting rosin for some of those hours? At least with the new codes, you have additional reasons to bring the truck back.

It's good that the dealer acknowledge the screwup, and offered to do all the additional work at no charge, but I would present them (next time you go there) with a well-written, itemized work order that clearly states exactly what you want done, and mention these three new codes. I usually make 2 copies, and put one on the dashboard for the tech and hand one to the service manager. I still expect the tech will never get a copy....

 

[jerryb]

sai codes after door knob did some soldering. Fan f-ing tastic. I'm ashamed of the sub 50 YO habitants of the planet, and any other person that wants to charge 500+ for replacing both KS's in a vvti with wire repair and new connectors.

 

[jsloden]

Now you know why they are known as "stealerships". Find a good independent that knows toyota's and specifically land cruisers if you can find one. People always assume that the best mechanics for their specific car must work at the dealership. This is rarely the case.

 

[Tx2006LC]

Update on the Codes

The Toyota Service Manager is telling me the following story.

The Secondary Air Injection Pump, and 2 valves need to be replaced to the tune of $2618.15. They are claiming the "Valves' are whats bad

This is after they told me they had to remove the Secondary Air Injection Pump and to do the wire repairs. They also told me that the Secondary Air Injection Pump was fine, and didn't need to be replaced before giving me back the vehicle.

Had no issues, and none of these error codes until they touched it. Does anyone have any advice on how to approach the "stealership" that they caused this issue.