Builds 2001 LX470 build LEGUSY (3 Viewers)

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I Have been sitting on a Front Runner stainless steel prep table for some time now. Though it has seen use as a table, I am just now getting around to getting it fitted to the rack so that I can take it places. It appears that the table design has changed some over time.

I chose this table for its sturdy construction and specifically its size as I wanted to slide it in the rack but not above or below it. This is because I am keeping my rack as low profile as possible and the solar panel takes up the rear section between the rails. There's not much room for storage below it, besides, the rear deflector gets in the way of access from the back. I like to store stuff on top of the rack and it clears the panel so that hasn't been a problem. My intention is to slide this table inline with the crossbars so that I can still have an awning on one side and use the storage space above without interfering with the table removal.

I acquired the table slides, prepared that they might not work for my purposes but in hopes that I could modify them to do so or that it may save me some time making what I need. With some modification and some extension brackets, it looks like I will be able to use them to support the table. This is a quick mock up of where I am at for now.

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I still need to build the top brackets that I am planning to use, as well as the end bracket that will lock it in place. My hope is that the proper spacing and materials will help keep this thing quiet enough. fingers crossed.

FWIW door strikers make great roof rack anchors.
 
I got the rack table slide finished and tested, and I have to say that I am surprisingly pleased. It works better that I ever expected and there is nothing that I feel the need to change at this point. ( I might consider powder coating the aluminum plates in the future if they dont weather as well.) After nearly 1000 miles, much of it off the pavement, I haven't noticed any noise from it and wouldn't know it was there without looking at it which can hardly be seen. It is very fast and easy to deploy yet doesn't move at all once stowed. I can still store things on top of it including a large tent bag that I used and it works just as well. It can be locked and it clears my shovel so I dont need to remove that if I dont want too. a solid large table is such a valuable camp tool to be able to setup quickly at any time and is often the first item that I want to unpack. The fact that it takes up so little space, makes it easier to bring wherever.

I built a couple more plates of Aluminum to serve and the top guides with UHMW plastic for a spacer, friction guide. I originally cut another top plate and guide for the end, but decided that it was unnecessary. Fortunately I had most of the material on hand. I also bent a tab to bolt to the end of the table in order to pin and optionally lock it in place. I applied some foam weatherstrip bumpers from the Front runner jerry can protector kits to the underside of the table to eliminate noise, and its a snug fit.

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More of Comb wash.
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We spent 5 days camping in the area, and Legusy survived a 3 year old. Fortunately we had ample opportunity to explore the many various ruins, Petroglyphs, and the diverse landscape.

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Arch Canyon
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River House Ruins
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Enjoying a view of the San Juan seemed like a good place to fill up before heading back.
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Those are some great pictures Scott. Thanks for sharing. I love your rig more and more each time I see it. The front bumper is just so clean, the lines are awesome and it just looks like it belongs.
 
Scott, I've got a question about your comms.

In post #12 you show a picture of your CB (Cobra 75) attached to the dash via a magnet mount. I've got a version of that same mount that I use for my phone and know that it holds well but with the weight of that CB I wondered if you have ever had an issue with it falling or detaching from the magnet while on a trail? I'd guess the guts are mounted under the shifter console and the pigtail is just poking out the passenger side so you can attach/detach as needed? Do you run with it always connected?

What about HAM? When we did the tech night a couple years ago you had a Baofeng, have you upgraded to a mobile unit or are you still rocking the handheld? I figure if you had upgraded you would have mentioned it in this thread and didn't see it so I thought I'd ask.
 
I leave the Cobra CB connected and hanging from the magnet mount all of the time. Its moved a little and has fallen or been knocked loose maybe a handful of times. If an amazingly better idea comes along, I might try it, but I haven't really had any problems with it and its easy to use. A steelie might work better for some people, But I like that a variety of flat metal surfaces will mount to it, like the ones on some of my devices. I also use this mount in other vehicles with heavier devices with no problems as the larger provided metal plates seem to work a bit better. The friction rubber surface on the magnet helps it to grab quite well.

I use a Wouxun KG-UV3D dual band handheld ham radio. I Have a longer antenna on it and a mag mount antenna for use in the truck. It has a few Batteries and charging options. So far, its been decent all around. I like that I can just grab it and go in any vehicle or on foot. Of course it has limitations, but the price was right too.
 
I need to catch up on a bit of progress here. I installed an ARB 2meter awning and obtained some spare parts.

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I had been thinking about removing the engine cover for some time now. I don't think that it really has much purpose. I think its was designed with appearance in mind and though it may provide a bit of protection for some engine components, similar Toyota/Lexus engines have been running for many years and miles with those parts exposed and they are designed to that standard. In my opinion it does more to get in the way and obstruct inspection and cleaning or possibly cause interference and noise with the large unsupported parts. Added to which, my cover was starting to crack a bit. After having it removed for a few months, I decided to cut off the unsupported sections and reinstall it to see how it looks. I may still remove it and the brackets entirely, but for now I think this is the best of both worlds. It still looks decent and I can access, clean and inspect much more. there are no unsupported sections flexing around so its pretty solid now. Its also easier to install as I can see the mounting supports to line them up from the outside.

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I might borrow that mod. Ive been thinkng about removing mine too.
 
I had been using some battery powered led lights stuck to the lift gate for lighting the open rear compartment area. After about a year of putting up with that setup, I decided that it wasn't good enough. To often, the lights would come apart, fall off, get left on or have dead batteries. On top of that, they weren't even that bright. So I though about another setup and compared several different LED light options that I had sitting around. I found that a strip of the Hitlights LED strip was adequate even light that would be easy to place exactly where I wanted it and hopefully stay put with its 3M adhesive. I considered running the lights through a separate switch or even building another latch switch(since the factory latch switch will not work due to its low reference voltage as a sensor for the illumination ECU). In the end, I decided to run it straight off the rear dome light as it will operate automatically when any of the 3 rear doors are opened, time out as per manufacturer specs, and that was great for me. I can also use the drawer lights for a bit more or less illumination at the deck lid. I didn't bother with another low or colored light option as I have plenty of headlamps that would be better suited for that and when I don't want interior lights to draw bugs into the cabin. From outside, the light strip looks just like a larger defroster line in the window as it happens to be the same color as the element.

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That is awesome. I really want to do this but I'm having trouble figuring out exactly which light strips to buy. Did you tie in the drawer lights to the dome light as well or are those battery?

I see the long strips of HiLights and that they are cuttable, but I cant figure out if you can use the remainder after cutting?

This is what I'm looking at:

http://www.amazon.com/HitLights-LED-Light-Strip-Installation/dp/B005GL5UG2

Is that what you used?
 
The drawer lights come off the dome light power only, to a surface mount switch so they don't automatically illuminate.

The light strip is completely usable after cutting as that is the intended design. you can by connections that fit on the cut strip. That is much like what I used.
 
@Odyseuss What fuel siphon are you using? Im tired of lifting my gas cans for lawn tractor and would like a battery operated one or a good manual pump. I bought a cheap one with a hand pump and lasted two weeks...
 
@bucfl I can't remember exactly what brand/part# this bulb hand pump is. I picked it up at Auto Zone with the fuel filter over a year ago. It has been working great since. I can pump it a few times until the fuel is flowing and leave it to come back to a jerry can with about 1/2" of fuel left in it.
 
We went down for Cruise Moab and helped organize the Overnight trail run in the San Rafael Swell. I made a video of the event with some decent shots of this LX in there (most of them are around 2:43 in case you don't want to see the entire video).



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Overall, the truck did great, I did encounter a couple random squeak and rattle noises that were a bit of a nuisance. Of course, they will get sorted out, after all this is an LX and it needs to be smooth and sound good.

We took a trip out to the White Rim on Friday and ran Sevenmile Rim on Saturday.

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Great pics and video. Nice playground you have there.
 
I recently installed a complete Audio Video system consisting of the following components.

Pioneer AVH4200-NEX head unit Android Auto Dual source compatible
DKMUS fit kit

Polk DB6501 component front door speakers (marine certified)
Polk DB651 Rear door speakers
Road kill expert sound deadening
Scorpion dark grey Speaker grill cloth

Esky EC170-09 Reverse camera

Alpine PDX-V9 amplifier
Rockford Fosgate 10" shallow mount subwoofer P3SD-10 and grill in box

dual Vizual Logic headrest monitors with Dvd player with 3 wireless headsets

I had a non nav factory Lexus head unit with the in dash 6 disc changer and was no longer satisfied with the capabilities of the factory sound system and its lack of options to incorporate modern media and smartphone compatibility. I use a Nexus 6P android device that has a lot to offer with media integration. I spent a good amount of time researching options for this system, and decided that I was not able to utilize much of the factory components effectively with this upgrade so I focused on a comprehensive solution. As a result, I am very pleased with the capabilities, as I can play a separate video on each of the rear monitors that will play audio in the wireless headsets and I can view navigation on the head unit through the smartphone while listening to a variety of audio options through the vehicles quality sound system.

This system provides good quality sound all around and still hits pretty hard if I turn it up a little. I am pleased about the quality of the sound and how well it integrates with the vehicle. Heavy bass does not produce rattles in the vehicle(despite all of the gear that I carry), the mirrors do not vibrate, and sound is sealed well in the vehicle with all of the doors closed as sound outside is significantly reduced.

It may take me a bit, but I will work through a write up of the install.

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