Builds 2001 LX470 build LEGUSY (3 Viewers)

[Odyseuss]

I figured I would do a write up thread on my 100 series LX build. I recently acquired this 2001 LX470 in October from a good friend who had started the build off to a good start. I'm picking it up from there and moving on to build this vehicle to fit our needs to facilitate vehicle based exploration and recreation. At the same time, this 100 series is replacing my older 88 4runner that has seen 12 years of that type of use. The 4Runner is a great truck that has seen a lot of reconstruction over the years to keep it going after ~335,000 miles. However, in the end it doesn't quite fit the needs of our growing family and this is a good opportunity to move on. I do expect this LX to provide a bit more of the space and comforts that will be greatly appreciated. As corny as it sounds this new Lexus is a vehicle Legacy for us and so it is named "LEGUSY".

The LX platform that I am working with has already been enhanced by a number of features. It has had the AHC replaced by an OME heavy suspension. The 3rd row seating has been replaced with a set of Outback drawers and an ARB slide. The running boards have been replaced with Outpost Off Road rock sliders. The roof rack has been replaced with Front runner rails and crossbars. A Slee Dual battery tray holds the auxiliary battery that is managed by a T-max controller. Additionally, this vehicle is in great condition with relatively lower miles for its year and excellent maintenance.


now for a few pictures.

The first addition was a set of deflectors. I was hoping that the sunroof deflector would also help minimize roof rack wind noise but it did not.

 

[Odyseuss]

Here is a couple quick pictures of my old 4Runner in its glory days, and just before the sale.

 

[Odyseuss]

The next modifications included better lighting to combat the growing darkness of the winter months. I finished installing any interior LEDs that had not already been changed. Then I added a few extra interior lights and then installed a DDM 35W HID kit along with the 17 pin mod to allow my fog lights to work with my High beams.

 

[Odyseuss]

Next I wanted to sort out a few issues with my keys. The 2 keys that I received with the vehicle had some casings that were cracked and worn. Because of the importance of the keys to the immobilizer system, I wanted to have a couple backups and some newer casings on my master keys. In addition, I also had a key remote sitting around that could be put to good use. I ordered a couple replacement housing off Amazon for around $5. Then I had them cut, which I had done at the Lexus dealer, but it cost me $25 each. As I understand it the Lexus keys require a special laser machine to cut the keys and it is a bit expensive to acquire and maintain. For this reason I still wanted to make the best use out of my already cut keys with worn casings. I also didn't want to spend a bunch more money on keys that needed to be cut. Even just a valet key would have cost me quite a bit of money.

So here is my approach to making the best use out of my keys. I wanted 2 front line keys for daily use 1 for me and my wife. 1 backup key, kept safe just in case so that if I ever lost the 2 masters, I had 1 left to reprogram more keys. And 1 sub key to give me more options. I had 3 remotes that I was able to program for unlocking/locking the doors. For some reason I was unable to program the transponder from my extra remote to start the vehicle. I dont know why, maybe the transponder chip was damaged or not compatible. So now that I have 4 keys and 2 working transponders, I needed 2 more working transponders for these key blades.

I performed a transponder swap from some cheaper Toyota keys. PN#89785-26020. I purchased these keys from a Toyota dealer knowing that they contained compatible transponders capable of being programmed as master keys. They were still about the same price as it cost me to have my keys cut and they had OE transponder chips. I programmed them using Techstream and then cut the key rubber portion in 1/2 to access the transponder and remove the chip. I also cut the chip out of my key fob that would not program and replaced it with the new transponder. I then placed 1 chip in a blank housing held in place by some epoxy for use as my sub key.

Another issue that I dealt with was an improperly installed key interlock solenoid that was quickly remedied.

 

[Odyseuss]

A Magnaflow muffler was installed to replace the rusting factory muffer.

I added some attachments to the cargo area to help organize my equipment, offer more versatility and protection. The first thing I wanted was a platform that would protect the carpeted surface of my drawer system when I am constantly sliding bins of heavy gear in the back. I also wanted to be able to slide the platform forward over the folded bench seat to make a sleeping area. I cut and sanded a 1/2 panel of birch wood and got exactly what I wanted. I then installed some cargo anchor rails to help hold my gear down and out of the way. I do not want stuff falling behind my fridge when I slide it forward. I added a few extra anchors on the driver side of the fridge and am using a few various ROK straps to help things stay put. These adjustable bungee straps seem quite useful.

I used the ARB tie downs for the fridge and then mounted a paper towel rack to the handle. I got the idea from the previous owner, and found the towel holder from InterDesign on Amazon.

A fire extinguisher was installed to the right rear grab handle with 3x 1" U-bolts and some Velcro straps just in case the mounting bracket were to ever get knocked loose. This keeps my extinguisher easily accessible and safely out of the way.


EDIT-based on interest, I decided to add content to this post.

I decided to use a First Alert 1-A 10-BC dry chemical extinguisher based on its size, all metal construction and overall specs. It is a USCG approved unit that is rechargeable. It contains 2.5lbs of dry chemical and weighs 4 lbs. I did not care for the plastic mounting bracket that came with it as it would not serve my purposes, so I went with a metal Kiddie marine fire extinguisher bracket.

I am aware of the concerns with mounting an extinguisher at head height where it has the potential to become a projectile. I do like the idea of mounting extinguishers by the 2nd row foot wells, but I decided not to because I use this area for other objects and It can be much less accessible if that door is blocked. I can access this unit from the rear bench or the back door even If my vehicle Is packed so it works for me. I took measures to secure this unit adequately and I would caution anyone else to do so, because the bracket alone is not secure enough for use in a moving vehicle in my opinion. A bit larger extinguisher would probably fit better(I added some felt strips to aid in the fit and avoid noise). I still wanted the extra secure assurance so I added 3 velcro straps that pass through, tighten and secure very well while still being somewhat easy to remove in an emergency.

Shop First Alert Fire Extinguisher - Rechargeable at Lowes.com

Kidde 420118 Mounting Bracket for Mariner Dry Chemical Fire Extinguishers 2.5 lb thru 2.75 lb M5, M10, M110 - - Amazon.com
-EDIT

 

[SmoothLC]

Looks like some nice mods @odtseuss!

Not sure there are great solutions for addressing wind noise up top other than a fairing at or near the front of the roof line. I put a Yakima fairing in front of a 1.4M Front Runner Wind Cheetah, and while it helps a little, it hasn't completely solved the problem. Part of the issue is that it sits right behind the sunroof.

Nice touch by the way with the fire extinguisher. I've been trying to come up with a solution and may copy this.

 

[SALTY METHODS]

Ya, i like that placement for the fire extinguisher.

 

[Odyseuss]

Thanks for the kind words and suggestions.

I wanted to make a few adjustments to the roof rack in order to adjust the crossbars and such. When I got the truck, it came with a wind deflector over the sunroof and it hit against the crossbar at freeway speeds cause it had no support in the middle. I wanted to keep the deflector and crossbars from covering the sunroof. In order to do this, I needed to replace some of the mounting hardware for the rack rails. I contacted Steve Hayes with Front Runner and received exactly what I needed in a timely manner. The customer service was great.

Upon re installation, I noticed that some of the paint had been rubbed off the roof from a previous placement of the deflector. To prevent this, I installed Clear Bra on the roof(after touching up the paint) where the wind deflector would contact, and reinstalled the deflector with an additional center support. It is much more quiet now and good enough for me. The forces of the wind on the top of the cruiser are very real, or maybe it's just that much more noticeable when the rest of the vehicle is so refined.

 

[SmoothLC]

Here's what I did on my SUV.

 

[duggy]

Link to the towel holder you bought? Great idea.

 

[Odyseuss]

@SmoothLC That deflector looks smooth. I did not know that you could get Yakima tower bases that fit the Front Runner rails. That is a good option.

@duggy you can search "interdesign swivel wall mount towel holder" on Amazon or try the link below. I just dont know how long the link will work for. The swivel wall mount is the one I used.

http://www.amazon.com/InterDesign-S...ds=interdesign+swivel+wall+mount+towel+holder

 

[Odyseuss]

Moving on with the basics, I needed to get a bit more electrical done. This required running some wire through the firewall so I wanted to install a few things at the same time. I put in a new battery while I was at it. Then I added a couple Hella fuse blocks, one for each batteries accessories. The Slee Battery tray had what looked to be the perfect spot to mount my ARB compressor, and after seeing how well it was working for cruiseroutfit, I copied his setup with the switch and all. I like the idea of controlling it from the compressor and since I don't have air lockers, I don't need the switches in the dash yet. However, I still ran the wires through the firewall as I sent the wiring for the CB through.

I have been using the imagnet suction cup on the dash for my phone and I really like the convenience of the magnetic mount. So, I added a magnetic mount for the CB as well. Its fast easy and secure. I dont need to take my eyes off the road to place it cause I can feel when the magnets take hold. This Scosche magnetic adhesive mount was about 1/2 the cost of some of the other magnetic mic mounts that I had seen.

 

[Odyseuss]

Pre ran the Wasatch Cruisers Rally.

Installed the personalized emblem.

 

[Odyseuss]

I've been busy and I don't have a lot to update this thread just yet, but I do have a couple things so Ill keep it going.

First, I wanted the rear side lids to stay open so that I did not have to completely remove them or constantly hold them while getting things in and out. I put a couple hooks on the bottom of the lids that easily catch on the seat belts.

Then I added a couple magnets to the back of the drawers for a small multi tool/bottle opener and a lighter. I cut a few pieces of scrap steel that I can stick to a variety of small objects that would be handy to have easy access to.

 

[Odyseuss]

In an effort to further baseline this vehicle I serviced the front wheel bearings and removed what was left of the AHC.

I wanted to shed some unnecessary extra weight and clean up the frame rails so I removed the AHC components that were no longer being used. I believe that the system was working properly when the previous owner made the switch to an OME heavy suspension. The shocks and the components under the hood were removed when the suspension was installed. Here are the pictures of the components that I removed. I cut the lines to save some time during the removal process, and to keep the units sealed to minimize residual fluid draining. If anyone is interested in these used components, send me a PM.

The components on the frame rails were a bit tricky to remove, as the top 12mm bolts that thread down into the top of the frame have very little clearance for access and were quite tight. The top rear bolt on the reservoir was the most difficult to get to. A ratcheting 12mm end wrench worked for most of the top bolts but not this one. In the end, I cut up a 12mm socket and used a combination of tools to get the access that I needed. Here is a photo of the tools I used for that top back reservoir bolt on the driver's side.

Now that all this stuff is out of the way, I can move on to more upgrades.

 

[Odyseuss]

I decided to send the wheels out for powder coating before installing a new set of tires. The factory finish on the wheels was failing in some areas and there was a bit of scrapes and gouges in the surface(not that you could ever tell now). I also didn't like the color of the factory finish. I think that the darker look of most powder coated wheels looks nice, but when I found out about all the powder coat color options, I wanted to go with something a bit different than matte black.

http://www.prismaticpowders.com/powder-coating-colors/

I decided to go with Crystal Grey. It is a dark charcoal metallic with about an 80% gloss finish which helps make it easier to clean. I think that the color complements the vehicle well cause the charcoal has specks of the cashmere beige and the silver in it.

The quality of the coating is amazing. I could tell it was on there good when I had to remove a bit to get the desired clearance around the hub centric surface. The wheel to hub mounting surface was not coated so I didn't have any issues there. Armor coatings did the work for a very reasonable price and also coated the lug nuts and color match painted the center caps.

I went with the new BFG All Terrain KO2 tires in 285/75/16.

 

[CreeperSleeper]

Very nice!

 

[SmoothLC]

^ Ditto. They look very clean.

I've been very close to pulling the trigger on doing the same, and probably would have this fall if not for some unexpected expenses on two of our vehicles (e.g. brakes, steering wheel lock, and power steering pump). Ouch!

Thanks for the tip on Armor Coatings - IIRC Kurt took his there as well.

 

[Odyseuss]

Thanks.

Yes, its the same place that Kurt got his wheels done. I got the reference from him. They were great to work with.

FYI, if you pick out a particular powder, you can get up to 5 free swatches from Prismatic Powders to match and make sure its the color you want. then it takes about a week to order the powder and a few days to a week for them to do the coating. If your concerned about the down time it might help to order the powder ahead of time. They will do all the prep work to blast the material whether it be steel or aluminum.

http://armorslc.com/powder-coating-services/

 

[Odyseuss]

I intend for this vehicle to facilitate a variety of activities and travel. It is not my only daily driver, and it often sits for several days without travel while still providing storage and logistics. This being the case, I need to run the fridge continuously and maintain a full charge in both batteries despite the lack of driving as a power source. I have tried running the fridge continuously on a dual battery setup before in my previous truck. Unfortunately the times of minimal driving were not sufficient to recover the drain of running the fridge while stationary. I decided to go with a solar power system to recover the batteries and compensate for the power consumption.

I chose to go with a 100W Ramsond solar panel. The product description was pretty informative and convincing. The price on these panels has come down a lot over the years as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Ramsond-Monocrystalline-Photovoltaic-Battery-Charging/dp/B005QUALBW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419199956&sr=8-1&keywords=Ramsond 100 Watt 100w W Monocrystalline Photovoltaic PV Solar Panel Module 12V Battery Charging

Next I decided to go with a Morning Star Sun Saver 10A solar controller. I added a watt meter to allow me to monitor the output of my panel under various conditions. I mounted the controller in the best place that I could think of to allow access to its battery monitoring functions as well as keep it protected. I have the dual battery controller to allow battery monitoring from in the cockpit. I was able to build mounting brackets to mount the panel just below level with the roof rack. This keeps it low profile which is necessary for my garage access. This mounting also allows me to carry items like my camp chairs on the rack above it. The panel is very durable so it should be able to resist damage. I also replaced the Axillary battery.