200 favorite Rock Sliders (1 Viewer)

[04UZJ100]

I'm running BB. Love them. They take a beating. The most difficult to install? Probably. But not that bad. I would give it 2 bananas. But they work if you are actually hitting things on a regular basis hard. I've had them about 1 year ish. I do things driving now that I would have never done before with Slee Sliders. I am very confident hitting something and "sliding" on the rails. My driving technique actually changed in some situations. I have broken 2 sets of Slee Sliders... As mentioned if you have a roof rack they make it really easy to step up to the rack. It's a solid step.

Unless you are really beating your LC, or what ever vehicle, on a regular basis BB is too much. Not worth the price or install. If your just looking for a little extra protection from time to time just in case then almost any other major brand will do fine.

For those that complain about the powder coating. BB also ships them raw and you can have them powder coated your self and save $$$. But then it's your finisher you can complain about the finish. Any powder coated accessory will require some level of maintenance. Bumpers, roof rack, sliders ect. If it rusts in a year with no damage then yes that is a problem. But you have to stay on top of it.

Interesting thread to scroll thru. It should almost be two threads.

One for people concerned with looks.
One for people that grind em'

They are apples and oranges.

How did you break slee sliders and what actually failed on them?

 

[sleeoffroad]

I have broken 2 sets of Slee Sliders..

You have mentioned this before. I would love to know the details since I cannot recall speaking to anyone about breaking a set of sliders. Maybe you never reached out to us? I would expect anyone that breaks two sets would contact us.

If there is a failure point on our sliders, I would really like to know what that is.

 

[Markuson]

This may be getting off topic but I’ll keep it short.
@TeCKis300 any thoughts on front CV health as tire diameter increases that much? I like the idea of just clearing things and armor weight impacting CV health as well.. but it sure seems like that’s a quick ticket to issues given what we’ve seen in some videos with tires smaller than that.

CVs… After 14.5 years, & hard wheeling including 35’s and wheel spacers… my CVs never failed. I finally replaced them this March, but *only* because they were already out and labor costs were zero-$-added.

The CV angles on the 200 are mild compared to the 100…

 

[Markuson]

You have mentioned this before. I would love to know the details since I cannot recall speaking to anyone about breaking a set of sliders. Maybe you never reached out to us? I would expect anyone that breaks two sets would contact us.

If there is a failure point on our sliders, I would really like to know what that is.

I’d like to know too.
I can’t seem to get my Slees to fail…no matter how hard I try.

As you (Christo at @sleeoffroad ) know from having my truck in your shop for major surgery in March… I have bent all sorts of stuff underneath…BUT I have never managed to bend my Slee sliders.
-That’s on my fat truck that is well north of 8000#

I do recall seeing a photo of a Slee that someone managed to bend at the rear-most point somehow, but thats the only instance I’ve ever heard of…and no idea whose it was.

I will continue attempting to bend mine…but alas…no luck so far!

 

[Romer]

I do things driving now that I would have never done before with Slee Sliders. I am very confident hitting something and "sliding" on the rails. My driving technique actually changed in some situations. I have broken 2 sets of Slee Sliders...

Yeah, I am curious as well. I have taken Slee Sliders on the Rubicon, beat them in Moab, in Missouri in South Dakota and a lot in Colorado and never had one issue. Most of my friends have Slee since we live here in Colorado and not once has anyone had an issue. I have been wheeling on Slee sliders for 17 years and done a lot of different types of wheeling. My daughters also have Slee sliders on their trucks and have gone just about everywhere I have gone the last 15 years with no issues. I have seen BB sliders and they are nice as well not throwing stones, but do not see anything physically or from specs why they would be better

 

[Bunga]

I asked before. No pics. I don't think the Slee is the world's strongest slider, it provided the degree of protection over the ACH that I needed, and aesthetics I wanted.

 

[RobW0]

I asked before. No pics. I don't think the Slee is the world's strongest slider, it provided the degree of protection over the ACH that I needed, and aesthetics I wanted.

I think most people are talking about the original 200 Slee sliders. I have the original Slee sliders for my 200 and have a hard time seeing how they would break. I am sure it is possible, but I don't see me taking my 200 on that trail. I have hit them hard in Moab and Colorado and should do some sanding and painting this fall before the winter weather gets here.

 

[bloc]

CVs… After 14.5 years, & hard wheeling including 35’s and wheel spacers… my CVs never failed. I finally replaced them this March, but *only* because they were already out and labor costs were zero-$-added.

The CV angles on the 200 are mild compared to the 100…

Do BP-51s add down travel? My kings add a couple inches and I seem to remember some of these busted CV’s being at low force but full droop.. and have to wonder whether my extra travel would contribute to this, on top of larger than stock tires.

 

[Wicked0ne18]

For Slee sliders(non lx) version how much stepping room compared to stock side step? For those that have them.

 

[FerrisBueller]

For Slee sliders(non lx) version how much stepping room compared to stock side step? For those that have them.

I want to say it's a little less stepping room compared to stock, but still plenty. Here's a link to a picture of them side-by-side, off the truck:

Now assemble the various pieces onto the sliders (this is slider assembly prior to the sliders going on the truck). Install the non-slip sections on the top, and the mounting arms at the front and back. Just follow Slee's instructions, it's straightforward. It's helpful to use a swivel socket and socket extension to get in some of the tight areas around the mounting arms. The hardware for the mounting arms should remain loose, you'll tighten them up later once the sliders are on the truck.

View attachment 2474747

View attachment 2474746

Next, you hand-thread the top main mounting bolts onto the LC frame. Keep them as loose as possible, while still having enough threads engaged to support the weight of the sliders. The sliders will slide onto these loose bolts and hang from it while you install all the other hardware. Don't forget the lock washers on these first set of mounting bolts, I missed that part in the instructions, and had to go back and add them after the fact once I realized my mistake. The Slee instructions are a little confusing at this point because you're constantly flipping back and forth between the main set of the instructions (which are for an LX) and the instructions in the appendix that are slightly different for the LC install. The hardware here is different for the LC than for the LX, so keep that in mind.

It's also going to be a bit tedious bending and winding all the stick-nuts to the appropriate places inside the frame for the bolts to mate with (these are carrying the bulk of the structural integrity, not the rivnuts).

Sorry, I missed getting a picture of just the loose hardware before mounting the sliders.

Now lift and slide the sliders onto those loosely-installed top bolts, keeping the washers on the outside of the slider mounting plate. The slider will just hang in place once you have it on there. It is too awkward trying to do this by yourself, trying to lift the slider, while trying to see and align with the loosely-installed bolts. I found it worked well to have my son lift the back end of the slider, then I laid on the ground and lifted the front end of the slider above me. That way I could see everything very well and get the slider mounting slots up and over the frame bolts.

Here's what it looks like with the slider hanging from the loose hardware. You can see the stick-end of one of the stick-nuts poking out from the rectangular hole to the right.

View attachment 2474760

You're almost done!

Loosely install all remaining bolts and nuts (except for the cross-member supports that aren't installed yet).

Then start tightening the main bolts (those that connect the two massive central support arms to the frames). Do this slowly, and measure the gap between the top of the slider and the body. You want a minimum of 3/8" (per the instructions). I used a jack underneath the support arm (use a rubber pad to avoid scratching) to raise it to achieve the correct gap. This is another time that you'll appreciate the design effort that went into the sliders. There's a convenient slot in the bottom of the main support arms where a swivel socket + extension fits perfectly.

As you tighten these main bolts, make sure slider alignment up/down and left/right is correct, per Slee's instructions. Pretty much all the brackets have long slots where the bolts install that allow both vertical and lateral adjustment opportunities. After the main bolts, tighten the front and back bracket hardware.

Using a jack for vertical alignment:

View attachment 2474774

The easiest way to measure the gap is to place a 3/8" allen wrench in the gap and adjust until the allen wrench is almost touching the body.

View attachment 2474777

 

[Wicked0ne18]

I want to say it's a little less stepping room compared to stock, but still plenty. Here's a link to a picture of them side-by-side, off the truck:

Thx @FerrisBueller . Great write up on the install. I was actually referring to the other rock slider version. From the look of it they both seem close to the stock version.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

For Slee sliders(non lx) version how much stepping room compared to stock side step? For those that have them.

I didn't officially measure, but my subjective perception is that the Sleep tubular sliders provide a wider step than the stock running boards. They stick out from the body a good ways.

 

[Wicked0ne18]

I didn't officially measure, but my subjective perception is that the Sleep tubular sliders provide a wider step than the stock running boards. They stick out from the body a good ways.

Thx! Much appreciated. Ordered a set yesterday since it’s in stock. Almost pulled the trigger on BB just for the extra room for stepping.

 

[UPR LC]

For Slee sliders(non lx) version how much stepping room compared to stock side step? For those that have them.

4 inches from the outer edge of the door sill to the outside of the slider rail on mine (driver door). There is some room under the sill to place your foot, but with the 4 inch number, you should be able to measure your stock running boards to compare. Sorry I did not measure the stock running board spacing before I removed them.

 

[Wicked0ne18]

4 inches from the outer edge of the door sill to the outside of the slider rail on mine (driver door). There is some room under the sill to place your foot, but with the 4 inch number, you should be able to measure your stock running boards to compare. Sorry I did not measure the stock running board spacing before I removed them.

Thx! My measurement of the stock.

 

[Lester did that]

Yeah, I am curious as well. I have taken Slee Sliders on the Rubicon, beat them in Moab, in Missouri in South Dakota and a lot in Colorado and never had one issue. Most of my friends have Slee since we live here in Colorado and not once has anyone had an issue. I have been wheeling on Slee sliders for 17 years and done a lot of different types of wheeling. My daughters also have Slee sliders on their trucks and have gone just about everywhere I have gone the last 15 years with no issues. I have seen BB sliders and they are nice as well not throwing stones, but do not see anything physically or from specs why they would be better

It's the long frame mount and how they are bolted on. That's what I like about BB. The connection is almost like they are welded on but they are not welded. Tubes are very thick. They add strength to the frame. And a tad overkill.

One set of Slee's I broke was completely on me. I was driving like a maniac relying on armor for my bad decisions. The second set I broke was an anomaly. Slee agreed and replaced them no questions and free shipping. Great customer service.

The BB sliders and bash guards I haven't broken yet. I railed the rear shock guard last week and thought from the sound I was dead in the water. Just a slight bend. Carry on. I like BB so far. They are a smaller company with a product made in the USA. So a smaller company will have more hiccups when compared to a large company. But they take any complaints serious and you talk to some one actually building them.

 

[Markuson]

Thx! My measurement of the stock.

View attachment 2782477

Just snapped this to go with your OEM photo. Even without counting the non-textured tube, the Slee is wider. With the tube, its not a close call:
Here with door closed:

Here’s your OEM shot:

Oldie:

 

[Wicked0ne18]

Just snapped this to go with your OEM photo. Even without counting the non-textured tube, the Slee is wider. With the tube, its not a close call:
Here with door closed:
View attachment 2784629

Here’s your OEM shot:
View attachment 2784653
Oldie:
View attachment 2784654

Perfect!!! Was hoping for little more room for stepping which it is from the comparison. Thx for the pic!

 

[SidZer0]

My BB step sliders w/ diamond fill plate should arrive tomorrow. Will take pix after install. Wish me luck.

 

[40Man]

My BB step sliders w/ diamond fill plate should arrive tomorrow. Will take pix after install. Wish me luck.

Just watch and follow the install videos. No luck needed.