My 2 cents.... I thought of sliders as my gateway into the full build. I'm not doing a full build today, but I will be in the future. For this reason, I looked for a functional and aesthetically pleasing package. Bud was originally my number one. Given I have a new truck, I prioritized aesthetics and narrowed my search down to Dissent or Slee, both in my eyes equally reputable vendors in the space. Based on the look of a fully built truck, I selected Dissent. I also liked that the aluminum will save on weight and mileage given the longer road trips we take. Slee recently released a slim bumper that looks awfully familiar. That said, I'm favoring the original. The Dissent design is truly integrated across the different parts. If you're going to wheel really really really hard, then go with Bud. This is all opinion though.
200 favorite Rock Sliders (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter DPA200
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FWIW I like Slee sliders the best. I have had a set on my 80, 100 and 200. My daughters both have Slee sliders on their trucks. Slee tests the crap out of them making multiple prototypes before they will release them for sale
I beat the crap out of Slee sliders on the Rubicon in my 80. I(t took the full weight of my vehicle at a couple of places acting like a pivot point. It also took a few hits
It does come down to a matter of preference. What I like in Slee others may not as much and prefer a different design. I have always bought the Step Sliders and that is more wife friendly
My sliders get used a lot and have rubbed the powder coating off i9n many places.
There is no right answer for everyone. It is what is right for you in price and how you are going to use them. If you are going to take them on trails where they will get beat up, then stronger sliders may be important. If you are going to be on intermittent trails were some protectio0n is required, other features are more important than stregth
I beat the crap out of Slee sliders on the Rubicon in my 80. I(t took the full weight of my vehicle at a couple of places acting like a pivot point. It also took a few hits
It does come down to a matter of preference. What I like in Slee others may not as much and prefer a different design. I have always bought the Step Sliders and that is more wife friendly
My sliders get used a lot and have rubbed the powder coating off i9n many places.
There is no right answer for everyone. It is what is right for you in price and how you are going to use them. If you are going to take them on trails where they will get beat up, then stronger sliders may be important. If you are going to be on intermittent trails were some protectio0n is required, other features are more important than stregth
I'm partial to my Dissent slider/steps...
I visited BudBuilt when looking for sliders for my new LC. The HE did not come with the factory step and the rockers are really unprotected in any wheeling scenario involving rocks. My wife was with me for the visit to BB as we stopped by on the way to my sister's place in Atlanta. I had arranged to meet with Rob for a consultation and the wife and I were regaled for over an hour and a half about metallurgy, combat vehicle design, pros and cons of each of Bud's offerings as well as those of others. I've read Rob's posts pointing out the flaws in other products, but I will say that when discussing in person he spoke quite favorably about many competitors and the different value propositions. (Certainly he does not need me to take up his cause, but I think it is unfair to say he is a unilateral basher of the competition - although I believe he is qualified as well as free to do so).
I had gone to Hudson, NC with the sole intention of educating myself. Based on internet research if I went with BB I was leaning towards getting the rock rail version - a little less $ and less obtrusive. After learning about the options and considering the use case, what I ended up buying was the full sliders with kicker. When you look at the full sliders unmounted on the floor they look huge and almost ridiculous. On the vehicle though they are anything but.
The 20 degree angle of the sliders seems like it would be counter to being a good step. In practice though the angle provides a better step in muddy and/or wet conditions as being angled towards the vehicle prevents you from sliding off - especially if your vehicle is pitched to one side or another. When trying to access my roof mounted max tracks while stuck in a muddy creek bed near Kanab, UT on a recent trip, my mud-caked boots held firm on the diamond plate of the sliders with my toes snug against the rocker panel. In a very similar mess a few years' back, the Poison Spyder rocker armor's level step I had on my JK allowed my foot to slip off when reaching for something on the roof and I banged the snot out of my shin. Operator error plays a role to be sure, but I add this to the list of reasons I think the Bud's are awesome.
I guess in short (sorry - not so short) I would say to those considering a slider purchase, try and go and see the different ones out there (preferably mounted on an LC). I live close to a major reseller of such things and was able to see Slee, ARB, and a Bud step on an LC before making a decision viewing the full Bud line in Hudson. Looking at pictures of people's builds and surfing company sales sites does not properly educate you. If you just want the look; paint a set of factory steps with line-x and call it a day. If you are looking for function, stand on a few while thinking about how you will use them. Does this make ingress and egress easier? Do these provide all of the protection I might need? How do I like the look? Do I want/need a kicker? It's worth thinking about these things because sliders should be a life-of-the-vehicle type purchase. You may need to get them refinished at some point along the line, but basically they go on to stay on.
I had gone to Hudson, NC with the sole intention of educating myself. Based on internet research if I went with BB I was leaning towards getting the rock rail version - a little less $ and less obtrusive. After learning about the options and considering the use case, what I ended up buying was the full sliders with kicker. When you look at the full sliders unmounted on the floor they look huge and almost ridiculous. On the vehicle though they are anything but.
The 20 degree angle of the sliders seems like it would be counter to being a good step. In practice though the angle provides a better step in muddy and/or wet conditions as being angled towards the vehicle prevents you from sliding off - especially if your vehicle is pitched to one side or another. When trying to access my roof mounted max tracks while stuck in a muddy creek bed near Kanab, UT on a recent trip, my mud-caked boots held firm on the diamond plate of the sliders with my toes snug against the rocker panel. In a very similar mess a few years' back, the Poison Spyder rocker armor's level step I had on my JK allowed my foot to slip off when reaching for something on the roof and I banged the snot out of my shin. Operator error plays a role to be sure, but I add this to the list of reasons I think the Bud's are awesome.
I guess in short (sorry - not so short) I would say to those considering a slider purchase, try and go and see the different ones out there (preferably mounted on an LC). I live close to a major reseller of such things and was able to see Slee, ARB, and a Bud step on an LC before making a decision viewing the full Bud line in Hudson. Looking at pictures of people's builds and surfing company sales sites does not properly educate you. If you just want the look; paint a set of factory steps with line-x and call it a day. If you are looking for function, stand on a few while thinking about how you will use them. Does this make ingress and egress easier? Do these provide all of the protection I might need? How do I like the look? Do I want/need a kicker? It's worth thinking about these things because sliders should be a life-of-the-vehicle type purchase. You may need to get them refinished at some point along the line, but basically they go on to stay on.
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I've never seen a rock slider debate get so detailed and divided into camps like this one has done. I put my first set of sliders/rock rails on a Tacoma way back in 2003 and they were very much the same design as what you see here, there's nothing revolutionary about these things. Each manufacturer has their design focus and their own set of pros/cons. My suggestion is to buy what looks best to your eye or whatever fits your budget and simply enjoy. If you plan to run 37's and thrash your rig on the Rubicon or Fordyce then go with Bud Built's, but for most of us there's no need to debate the merits of which is strongest because the mass majority of these offerings are going to be more than adequate for our needs.
agree but would throw Slee in the bash category as I have done that on 3 vehicles and on the Rubicon
Peripherally since you touched on it...
There's a couple different extremes in strategy. Armor up with sliders and such first, then everything else. Or big tire, and maybe not as much need for armor?
Just saying I think there is a path of too little tire and too much armor, when more budget and effort can be put into clearance that may negate the need for as much armor. Or as heavy of armor. Combined lifts between tire diameter, suspension, and perhaps even body lifts, can help outright clear obstacles. Many great examples on the boards for 35-37" tires.
Of course this all depends on the individual and the types of trails. For some, there's never enough tire or armor. Maybe more effective to drive a Jeep or Side by Side at that point?
There are so many different ways to skin this cat, that's for certain. Like most, I am a sucker for bigger meats, I look at the 37x13.50's on my truck and I think they look average while my father just this past weekend marveled at how "insanely big" they were, his words lol. The older I get and the more I mess with a new platform/build, the more I realize that the majority of what I want to do is more easily accomplished on two wheels or in a well built side by side that can be towed to and from the trail without worry or concern about damage, reliability or simply making it back home.
I love off-roading, it doesn't matter what vehicle is used, I simply enjoy being out there and tackling rough terrain and everything else in between. That said, I cover so much more ground and more difficult terrain with much more ease when on two wheels and that's quickly becoming my preferred tool of choice when off-road. I don't know where my LC build will go from here, I desire to put it on 37's but if I am being honest with myself it'll likely get 35's at best if not 34's because it's simply more practical. Proper skid plates and sliders are a must if doing anything beyond fire roads, but we really don't "need" anything beyond a 35 in order to tackle 98% of what's out there.
One thing is for certain, I appreciate and respect all of the builds on this forum. In the end they all serve their owners needs and desires right down to those that are bone stock. I love Toyota's, especially Land Cruisers and I always will and one day I'll have a Toyota on 37's, it won't be practical or necessary, but I'll do it, for the love of it.
bloc
SILVER Star
This may be getting off topic but I’ll keep it short.
@TeCKis300 any thoughts on front CV health as tire diameter increases that much? I like the idea of just clearing things and armor weight impacting CV health as well.. but it sure seems like that’s a quick ticket to issues given what we’ve seen in some videos with tires smaller than that.
I agree with @Tex68w and this is why my build will (probably) stay really mild, with sliders that aren’t quite bud built but get the job done for my uses, and my stock rear bumper has a fair number of scrapes on it.. that I don’t mind being there at all. Meanwhile my rig only weighs 6300lb loaded for a trip, where I get reasonable enough mileage. One day I may get a KTM and trailer to cover trail ground very rapidly, but for now this thing is amazing given how hard I am comfortable pushing 1000+ miles away from home.
@TeCKis300 any thoughts on front CV health as tire diameter increases that much? I like the idea of just clearing things and armor weight impacting CV health as well.. but it sure seems like that’s a quick ticket to issues given what we’ve seen in some videos with tires smaller than that.
I agree with @Tex68w and this is why my build will (probably) stay really mild, with sliders that aren’t quite bud built but get the job done for my uses, and my stock rear bumper has a fair number of scrapes on it.. that I don’t mind being there at all. Meanwhile my rig only weighs 6300lb loaded for a trip, where I get reasonable enough mileage. One day I may get a KTM and trailer to cover trail ground very rapidly, but for now this thing is amazing given how hard I am comfortable pushing 1000+ miles away from home.
I'm not sure how divided it is.
I think the large majority agree there are a few great options with minor pros and cons.
I went with Buds simply because I had them on my Tundra, and saw the abuse the took. And while I appreciate the more refined look of others, I wanted something I knew I could bang on, and past experience made my decision. I haven't had to make good use of them yet offroad, but the kickout is awesome for roof access, and it is easier for my kids to access the back seat as it provides a bigger step (the angled sliders is not noticable in a negative way when using as a step).
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UPR LC
GOLD Star
I just installed Slee sliders (steel tube version). Riv nuts were not an issue, use a step-bit to enlarge the holes, finish with a 17/32" drill bit. Items that I need to follow up on: e-brake cables rest on edge of gussets and need protection from rubbing, some of the locations for bolts on my 2021 frame did not have threaded inserts shown in the instructions and there is no way to install riv nuts (higher frame holes). The slider install is very easy on the 2021, lay on your back put the slider on your stomach and lift it with your legs and arms and thread in a couple of the bolts to hold it in place, simple one person operation. Or use a jack.
We will see how the riv nuts work long-term, I am not a huge fan of riv nuts for structural attachments but I liked the construction and design of the Slee sliders the most, plus I ordered skid plates and suspension all at one time so I saved on freight shipping.
If anyone has questions, let me know.
We will see how the riv nuts work long-term, I am not a huge fan of riv nuts for structural attachments but I liked the construction and design of the Slee sliders the most, plus I ordered skid plates and suspension all at one time so I saved on freight shipping.
If anyone has questions, let me know.
I like the look of the Slee sliders best myself but I also don't like/prefer rivnuts. Interesting info about the 2021 MY missing some of the inserts, I'll have to look for that when I install mine. Like yourself, I have installed many sliders solo with the stomach/thigh lift method and/or with the use of jack stands, too easy!
On the holes that were not threaded (and cannot do riv nuts), what did you do to install the bolts?
UPR LC
GOLD Star
I left the bolts out and the holes empty for now. When I have a chance I will be calling Slee to see if they have any recommendations or solutions. I will snap some photos and let folks know what Slee has to say. The sliders are stout as-is and are mounted with most of the provided bolts. Also, it is mostly the passenger side slider that is affected by higher blank frame holes. I would prefer to have at least one more high bolt on the passenger side rail if at all possible.
These sliders are for mostly backcountry camping trips for protection, something more substantial than the flimsy stock running boards but this is not a rockcrawling or bashing rig. So most likely, I will not have any issues as is but I would prefer to use as many frame holes as possible to attach the sliders.
Sad when you can't call a spade a spade.
I don't see them mentioned much so here's a plug for Jason's sliders. I've had them on this 200 for 4/5 years with thousands of happy offroad miles without failure. Superior welds and craftsmanship if you've bought or seen anything he builds its top notch. I like them so much I'll ask him to build me a set for the next one as well. I really like the design, quality and step access to the roof rack.
200 Series Sliders
Toyota Land Cruiser 200 Series Sliders Bolt on application with brake line standoffs No welding or cutting for proper fit (drilling of the frame is required) All brackets, gussets, mounts and tread plates are laser cut for precision accuracy Fits 2008 to current year models Made from: 3" x 2" x...
www.trail-tailor.com
I don't see them mentioned much so here's a plug for Jason's sliders. I've had them on this 200 for 4/5 years with thousands of happy offroad miles without failure. Superior welds and craftsmanship if you've bought or seen anything he builds its top notch. I like them so much I'll ask him to build me a set for the next one as well. I really like the design, quality and step access to the roof rack.
200 Series Sliders
Toyota Land Cruiser 200 Series Sliders Bolt on application with brake line standoffs No welding or cutting for proper fit (drilling of the frame is required) All brackets, gussets, mounts and tread plates are laser cut for precision accuracy Fits 2008 to current year models Made from: 3" x 2" x...www.trail-tailor.com
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I think the difference is that Trail Tailors stuff is not produced at a higher volume. It's very difficult to actually order anything off his site and even when you try to contact him it's difficult to get a reply back. I've emailed him multiple times and have heard crickets. I understand he's very selective about what projects he works on, who he works with and that he has other interests as well. Nothing against Jason and TT, he does great work and his business model/goals may be a little different than others but it's impossible to order something when it can't be done online and you can't get a ahold of him either. Personally I'm done trying and glad there are other options out there as well.
Certainly valid points, I've never had that experience personally I've bought a full suspension, sliders and control arms from him but I understand your points.
I'm running BB. Love them. They take a beating. The most difficult to install? Probably. But not that bad. I would give it 2 bananas. But they work if you are actually hitting things on a regular basis hard. I've had them about 1 year ish. I do things driving now that I would have never done before with Slee Sliders. I am very confident hitting something and "sliding" on the rails. My driving technique actually changed in some situations. I have broken 2 sets of Slee Sliders... As mentioned if you have a roof rack they make it really easy to step up to the rack. It's a solid step.
Unless you are really beating your LC, or what ever vehicle, on a regular basis BB is too much. Not worth the price or install. If your just looking for a little extra protection from time to time just in case then almost any other major brand will do fine.
For those that complain about the powder coating. BB also ships them raw and you can have them powder coated your self and save $$$. But then it's your finisher you can complain about the finish. Any powder coated accessory will require some level of maintenance. Bumpers, roof rack, sliders ect. If it rusts in a year with no damage then yes that is a problem. But you have to stay on top of it.
Interesting thread to scroll thru. It should almost be two threads.
One for people concerned with looks.
One for people that grind em'
They are apples and oranges.
Unless you are really beating your LC, or what ever vehicle, on a regular basis BB is too much. Not worth the price or install. If your just looking for a little extra protection from time to time just in case then almost any other major brand will do fine.
For those that complain about the powder coating. BB also ships them raw and you can have them powder coated your self and save $$$. But then it's your finisher you can complain about the finish. Any powder coated accessory will require some level of maintenance. Bumpers, roof rack, sliders ect. If it rusts in a year with no damage then yes that is a problem. But you have to stay on top of it.
Interesting thread to scroll thru. It should almost be two threads.
One for people concerned with looks.
One for people that grind em'
They are apples and oranges.
