I'm starting this thread for those HDJ81 Land Cruiser owners that are thinking of having their 1HD-T diesel fuel injectors tested/reconditioned/replaced but want to remove the diesel injectors themselves in order to save some money and learn more about their Land Cruiser (like me)!
I have looked far and wide for a write-up, with pictures, that discusses the reality of the injector removal process and was not able to find much that consolidates everything into one place. Sure, there are definitely pieces of the 1HD-T injector removal process puzzle scattered throughout this website/forum, and others, but nothing that really addressed it head on from start to finish. You know, something that goes beyond the Toyota FSM for the 1HD-T engine (see pages FU-16 through FU-26 in the FSM) and provides a reality check for something like "uh-oh, my injector is stuck and won't budge", or "the copper washer/nozzle seat is stuck at the bottom, now what?!?!" sort of thing
So, with that being said, in a about a month I plan to remove the 1HD-T injectors on my own once I get the appropriate parts/tools delivered. I plan on documenting the process as I go, to hopefully help others (or maybe as a "what not to do" resource, who knows).
Anyway...here are the details:
Living in Texas (US), I chose to purchase new Denso injectors after looking into 1HD-T exchange service injectors (usually from Australia or New Zealand) or having my injectors inspected and reconditioned by someone here in the United States. Long story short, I was able to find brand new Denso injectors for $160/injector right here in Texas (where I live). I was not able to find a place in the U.S. that offered exchange service injectors (i.e. you buy a set of 6 reconditioned 1HD-T injectors from them and they include a refundable core charge that you get back once you've shipped your old injectors back to them), only inspection and reconditioning on the actual injectors themselves.
Yes, reconditioned injectors are cheaper no matter how you spin it, but finding a reputable place in the U.S. that will properly bench test, inspect, and recondition with genuine factory parts for these 2-stage injectors is difficult (not impossible, just difficult). I also did not want to be down for 5 - 7 days waiting for the existing injectors to be sent off for testing and reconditioning, and then shipped back. We can go back and forth about this decision, but that is what I've decided.
So, for my 1991 HDJ81 (HDJ81V-RNMEX) I figured out the following part numbers:
Injector: Denso Part #: 093500-4350 (Toyota Part #: 23600-17010). Price: $160/injector
Comment: I also corroborated this Denso injector part number through the company representative I bought the new injectors through. The representative contacted Denso on my behalf and used my injection pump # info (I have a Denso #096000-7810; Toyota #: 22100-17281) to determine that the Denso injector part number above is correct given the Denso injection pump number. This was one of my biggest concerns as I had read that the injectors varied over the years and were pump dependent.
Washer Kit for 1HD-T injectors: Ordered an injector washer kit (includes 6 copper injector "seats" that are the correct 2.5mm thickness for vehicles made before 8/1992, 6 O-rings, and finally 12 washers for the nozzle leakage pipe connection) that ran about $58 (USD) shipped from Australia. For vehicles after 8/1992, the nozzle seat got thicker to 3.5mm...at least according to United Fuel Injection on their eBay storefront website.
Special Tools
* 12mm and 14mm hex head sockets for removal of hollow bolts and nozzle holder clamp bolts (see FSM pages FU16/FU17)
* 17mm Box wrench for removal of union nut holding injection pipes to injection nozzle (FU16)
* Ratcheting torque wrench capable of handling the 9 ft.-lbs to 29 ft.-lbs range of torques (see the Toyota FSM for the 1HD-T for this info) that will be required to reinstall the new injectors. (see FU26)
* PB Blaster: May need to soak the bolts beforehand to make removal easier
* 8 mm threaded bolt/rod about 6 inches long. I have read that folks have had luck in removing a stuck nozzle seat washer if the copper seat does not come out with the injector. Evidently you can thread the 8mm bolt down into the softer copper seat and then pull it out.
I will post back once I've had a chance to go through the process and document it with pictures for others. Remember, I am only doing this to share with other folks my experience, rather than say this is how you do it, no exceptions. There are a lot of smart people out there that are able to find ingenious ways of doing things with simple tools I just want to share what I've experienced/learned once I've had a chance to do this removal.
Stay tuned...
I have looked far and wide for a write-up, with pictures, that discusses the reality of the injector removal process and was not able to find much that consolidates everything into one place. Sure, there are definitely pieces of the 1HD-T injector removal process puzzle scattered throughout this website/forum, and others, but nothing that really addressed it head on from start to finish. You know, something that goes beyond the Toyota FSM for the 1HD-T engine (see pages FU-16 through FU-26 in the FSM) and provides a reality check for something like "uh-oh, my injector is stuck and won't budge", or "the copper washer/nozzle seat is stuck at the bottom, now what?!?!" sort of thing
So, with that being said, in a about a month I plan to remove the 1HD-T injectors on my own once I get the appropriate parts/tools delivered. I plan on documenting the process as I go, to hopefully help others (or maybe as a "what not to do" resource, who knows).
Anyway...here are the details:
Living in Texas (US), I chose to purchase new Denso injectors after looking into 1HD-T exchange service injectors (usually from Australia or New Zealand) or having my injectors inspected and reconditioned by someone here in the United States. Long story short, I was able to find brand new Denso injectors for $160/injector right here in Texas (where I live). I was not able to find a place in the U.S. that offered exchange service injectors (i.e. you buy a set of 6 reconditioned 1HD-T injectors from them and they include a refundable core charge that you get back once you've shipped your old injectors back to them), only inspection and reconditioning on the actual injectors themselves.
Yes, reconditioned injectors are cheaper no matter how you spin it, but finding a reputable place in the U.S. that will properly bench test, inspect, and recondition with genuine factory parts for these 2-stage injectors is difficult (not impossible, just difficult). I also did not want to be down for 5 - 7 days waiting for the existing injectors to be sent off for testing and reconditioning, and then shipped back. We can go back and forth about this decision, but that is what I've decided.
So, for my 1991 HDJ81 (HDJ81V-RNMEX) I figured out the following part numbers:
Injector: Denso Part #: 093500-4350 (Toyota Part #: 23600-17010). Price: $160/injector
Comment: I also corroborated this Denso injector part number through the company representative I bought the new injectors through. The representative contacted Denso on my behalf and used my injection pump # info (I have a Denso #096000-7810; Toyota #: 22100-17281) to determine that the Denso injector part number above is correct given the Denso injection pump number. This was one of my biggest concerns as I had read that the injectors varied over the years and were pump dependent.
Washer Kit for 1HD-T injectors: Ordered an injector washer kit (includes 6 copper injector "seats" that are the correct 2.5mm thickness for vehicles made before 8/1992, 6 O-rings, and finally 12 washers for the nozzle leakage pipe connection) that ran about $58 (USD) shipped from Australia. For vehicles after 8/1992, the nozzle seat got thicker to 3.5mm...at least according to United Fuel Injection on their eBay storefront website.
Special Tools
* 12mm and 14mm hex head sockets for removal of hollow bolts and nozzle holder clamp bolts (see FSM pages FU16/FU17)
* 17mm Box wrench for removal of union nut holding injection pipes to injection nozzle (FU16)
* Ratcheting torque wrench capable of handling the 9 ft.-lbs to 29 ft.-lbs range of torques (see the Toyota FSM for the 1HD-T for this info) that will be required to reinstall the new injectors. (see FU26)
* PB Blaster: May need to soak the bolts beforehand to make removal easier
* 8 mm threaded bolt/rod about 6 inches long. I have read that folks have had luck in removing a stuck nozzle seat washer if the copper seat does not come out with the injector. Evidently you can thread the 8mm bolt down into the softer copper seat and then pull it out.
I will post back once I've had a chance to go through the process and document it with pictures for others. Remember, I am only doing this to share with other folks my experience, rather than say this is how you do it, no exceptions. There are a lot of smart people out there that are able to find ingenious ways of doing things with simple tools I just want to share what I've experienced/learned once I've had a chance to do this removal.
Stay tuned...
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