1FZ-FE Stroker Build (5.5L - 102mm Bore - 115mm Stroke) (1 Viewer)

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DISCLAIMER: This post is mostly intended for entertainment purposes, it is up to the reader to confirm the accuracy and validity of the information shared in this post.

Hello everyone, just thought Id share the results of my new 1FZ-FE Stroker build. 583 Foot pounds of TORQUE on pump gas TO THE WHEELS!

Background Info:

NOTE:
This is the GEN 2 1FZ-FE that were built from 1998-2007 for the FJZ100 and the FZJ105 found in middle eastern and Australian markets. However the parts used for this build can be used on both variants.

Key Differences between the GEN 1 and GEN 2 1FZ-FE:

The GEN 2 Has:

1. Higher compression pistons
2. Different intake manifold (shorter runners) + MAP Sensor on the intake manifold
3. Wasted spark as opposed to a distributer

Other than that they are practically the same (same head, same block).

Build Mod Parts List -

NOTE: Started with a freshly rebuild gen 2 1FZ-FE (all parts replaced (timing chain, oil pump, water pump, block freshly bored via CNC).

ECU & Wiring:

ECU: Emtron SL6 ECU

ECU Used Features: Close loop lambda, wideband sensor installed right after the collector on a 45 degree angle for accurate readings.

Wiring Harness: OEM Engine wire loom, used a plug and play kit offered by the local Emtron retailer, easy install.

Tuner: Me (still a beginner, decent results)

Ignition:

Coils: 3UR-FE OEM Coils the ones used on the Toyota 5.7 V8 (one coil per cylinder, however since the OEM wiring harness is used I am not taking full advantage of these yet since they are still
wired in pairs 3 channel ignition currently, meaning I am still running them as Wasted Spark through the ECU, 2 coils at a time, planning to create a new custom wiring harness from scratch to ensure each coil is wired separately so I can run all 6 wires to the ECU for 6 channel ignition, then I can run the ignition as Direct Fire, much better spark energy and coil cooling, especially at higher RPM)

Spark plugs: OEM Copper plugs

Fueling:

Fuel Pump: Walbro in tank fuel pump 450LPH

Fuel Regulator: AEM, set to 45 PSI

Injectors: 1050cc Injector Dynamics (similarly to the coils, because I am using the OEM wiring loom, the injectors are wired in groups, this does not give the best control over the fueling, the custom wiring harness I plan to install will have each one wired separately which will allow: Sequential Injection)

Fuel line and fuel rail: OEM

Fuel Filter: Custom larger fuel filter

Gas: Pump 95 octane

Displacement:

Pistons: ICOM 102MM Domed high compression pistons (220 cranking PSI, for reference OEM Piston cranking PSI: 180)

Connecting rods: ICOM Forged Steel H Beam Rods

Crankshaft: Precision engineering 115m forged crankshaft

Calculated Displacement: 102mmBore & 115mm stroker x 6 Cylinders = 5.5L (Spicer Engine Displacement Calculator - https://spicerparts.com/calculators/engine-displacement-calculator)

Head work:

Porting: CNC maxed out intake and exhaust porting

Camshaft: Stage 2 custom camshaft by Bendlmook (local grinder). 114 LSA (this lobe separation angle is too wide for this build not enough overlap, wasted performance, I plan on ordering a custom camshaft with a 106 LSA, which will give a much beefier torque curve due to scavenging this will maximize the potential of this engine build at the cost of low idle vaccum and worse low rpm drivability, will chop like hell though)

Valves/Retainers/Springs: By supertech, 1.5mm valves (OEMvalves are 1.2mm)

Head gasket: Comtech 2.0mm

Intake:
Intake manifold: Custom larger intake manifold with individual runners, still not enough intake, plan on going bigger.
Throttle body: 3.5 inch Hypertune throttle body, manual cable (plan on installing a 4 inch LS drive by wire throttle body in order to have idle control)

Air intake: Custom 4 inch unfelted air scoop with a smooth corner transition right into a 3.5 inch throttle body, off the right headlight (fresh ambient air, denser charge = more power and more dust as well...., plus the RAM effect at higher speeds)

Exhaust:

Header: 6-1 Custom header 1 7/8 primaries, 3 inch collector

Exhaust piping size: 3.5 inch laser cut smooth curves, galvanized aluminum

Muffler: 3.5 inch electronically valved muffler, OPEN = dump directly after the mid muffle (down pipe) CLOSED = go through the factory tail pipe resonator)

Drivetrain:

Transmission: OEM Toyota 5 speed manual transmission (originally 4 speed auto)

Clutch: Precision double plate clutch with a lightened flywheel

Engine Power Characteristics & First Impressions:

Amazing torque down low, peaks at 3500 RPM, even the part throttle acceleration feels much more potent, the power dies off after 5500 RPM due to the small cam, not enough duration to allow it to breath! Which is why I set the rev limit to 5700 RPM (ignition cut on limit). My goal is to get it to rev to 7500+

Although in terms of street use, the setup as is is perfect, it has a tone of power down low which is to be expected with this much displacement divided into 6 cylinders even with the wide cam LSA. Especially since that displacement is largely the result of the stroke. The air intake scoop is obviously not suitable for daily use, and especially not for off-roading, the only thing filtering at this point is the oil filter...
Media:

Stance.png


Dyno_Photo.png


Dyno Results:

Dyno_Results.png


Testing Videos:

 
Something doesn't seem right. I've been watching a lot of dyno videos lately which has given me a basic idea of expected dyno results. 1fzfe motors with a fairly decent amount of boost don't put out that much power from what I've seen anyway. You are making 5.9 cummins turbo diesel power with a naturally aspirated petrol I6 according to those numbers. Some shops will purposely have a dyno adjusted to give exaggerated numbers to draw in more business or just dont have it dialed in well. Either way it seems your happy with it and it runs well which is all that matters in the end.
 
Something doesn't seem right. I've been watching a lot of dyno videos lately which has given me a basic idea of expected dyno results. 1fzfe motors with a fairly decent amount of boost don't put out that much power from what I've seen anyway. You are making 5.9 cummins turbo diesel power with a naturally aspirated petrol I6 according to those numbers. Some shops will purposely have a dyno adjusted to give exaggerated numbers to draw in more business or just dont have it dialed in well. Either way it seems you’re happy with it and it runs well which is all that matters in the end.
I totally see where you are coming from, I have seen posts here with boosted 1FZs making 190-250whp. It does seem ridiculous for an NA motor to make that much relative to all that.

Although in terms of the Dyno being adjusted to give exaggerated numbers, no I don’t think so. Since this Dyno is not associated with the workshop that built my 1FZ, what would be the intent? It is a known Dyno and I have not heard anything like that from people around me.

I actually ensured the Dyno was calibrated by inserting proper parameters before hand such as the right tire size (circumference), curb weight, gearing.

I also did the run in fourth gear to ensure a 1:1 ratio.

On top of that I used this Dyno a while back to test another gen 2 1FZ-FE, that engine was bone stock on the inside however it was freshly rebuilt with .50mm overbore pistons. It had a 3.5 cold air intake and a full 3 inch exhaust with 6-1 headers and the same ECU that I am running right now the EMTRON SL6. It got 220whp to the wheels which was no surprise, 220whp from a full exhaust, intake, stand-alone ECU only 215-225whp is the expected result with those mods here with bone stock internals. Not to mention that this test was done with 34 inch off road tires(I am a ware of the exact drivetrain loses with bigger heavier tires are but I am sure they are relevant)

It is also worth mentioning:
This stroker build was Dynoned and currently is running 30.5 inch road tires with Lexus 16 inch wheels.

Current tire weight: 13.5 kg - 29 lbs

Current wheel weight: 6.5 kg - 14.3lbs

I’ll also do a 0-60 and quarter mile test to see if those numbers match the current power and torque output in some way.


Here is the test results on the same Dyno of my other 1FZ Land Cruiser that I just mentioned.

840DA7FB-B2EE-4DE0-A3A6-C66806000EAD.jpeg


B42993F3-ACCF-4D64-B02E-2AE4AC4C7ACD.jpeg
 
Something doesn't seem right. I've been watching a lot of dyno videos lately which has given me a basic idea of expected dyno results. 1fzfe motors with a fairly decent amount of boost don't put out that much power from what I've seen anyway. You are making 5.9 cummins turbo diesel power with a naturally aspirated petrol I6 according to those numbers. Some shops will purposely have a dyno adjusted to give exaggerated numbers to draw in more business or just dont have it dialed in well. Either way it seems your happy with it and it runs well which is all that matters in the end.
You are watching awd dynos with a full time 4wd and automatic transmission which is probably 30-40% loss. I have no idea how accurate these numbers are but they are they are through a manual transmission and 2wd.
 
If you are a tuner that has a dyno shop, and your tunes produce the best power, then it's a huge advertisement. If the dyno is set to give generous numbers, then it gives the illusion of the tuner being a really good tuner without all the actual effort/skill. I noticed there are no units next to the numbers. So maybe it's in hp and nm? Keep in mind a 5.7 tundra with dual vvti typically does 300-330tq at the rear wheels. If your torque is in nm then that translates to 430ftlbs. 430ftlbs I could possibly see at the wheels possibly but that I'm kind of skeptical of as well. A stroker kit does tend to increase torque though.
In the end its not so much peak power or numbers but rather if it runs how you need it to. However if the numbers seem really far on a dyno-well part of the intent of a dyno run is to get a somewhat accurate reading of power output.
I totally see where you are coming from, I have seen posts here with boosted 1FZs making 190-250whp. It does seem ridiculous for an NA motor to make that much relative to all that.

Although in terms of the Dyno being adjusted to give exaggerated numbers, no I don’t think so. Since this Dyno is not associated with the workshop that built my 1FZ, what would be the intent? It is a known Dyno and I have not heard anything like that from people around me.

I actually ensured the Dyno was calibrated by inserting proper parameters before hand such as the right tire size (circumference), curb weight, gearing.

I also did the run in fourth gear to ensure a 1:1 ratio.

On top of that I used this Dyno a while back to test another gen 2 1FZ-FE, that engine was bone stock on the inside however it was freshly rebuilt with .50mm overbore pistons. It had a 3.5 cold air intake and a full 3 inch exhaust with 6-1 headers and the same ECU that I am running right now the EMTRON SL6. It got 220whp to the wheels which was no surprise, 220whp from a full exhaust, intake, stand-alone ECU only 215-225whp is the expected result with those mods here with bone stock internals. Not to mention that this test was done with 34 inch off road tires(I am a ware of the exact drivetrain loses with bigger heavier tires are but I am sure they are relevant)

It is also worth mentioning:
This stroker build was Dynoned and currently is running 30.5 inch road tires with Lexus 16 inch wheels.

Current tire weight: 13.5 kg - 29 lbs

Current wheel weight: 6.5 kg - 14.3lbs

I’ll also do a 0-60 and quarter mile test to see if those numbers match the current power and torque output in some way.


Here is the test results on the same Dyno of my other 1FZ Land Cruiser that I just mentioned.

View attachment 3224397

View attachment 3224398
 
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The intent is money. If you are a tuner that has a dyno shop, and your tunes produce the best power, then it's a huge advertisement. If the dyno is set to give generous numbers, then it gives the illusion of the tuner being a really good tuner without all the actual effort/skill. I noticed there are no units next to the numbers. So maybe it's in hp and nm? Keep in mind a 5.7 tundra with dual vvti typically does 300-330tq at the rear wheels. If your torque is in nm then that translates to 430ftlbs. 430ftlbs I could possibly see at the wheels possibly but that I'm kind of skeptical of as well. Thats like 500 at the crank. A direct injection gen 5 GM 5.3 V8 makes 430ftlb tq at the crank. A stroker kit does tend to increase torque though. I'm the end olits not so much peak power or numbers but rather if it runs how you need it to.
That could be true, but in this case the person who tuned it is me? And I am not associated with the workshop or the Dyno…that is unless the Dyno owner has it setup like that permanently.

Either way the first 1FZ setup I took their had the proper numbers which makes me think that place is credible.

5.3 L V8, if I am not mistaken in the case that you have more displacement divided into fewer cylinders you would have more torque down low and a lower peak power and vice versa. Not sure by how much though.


The only other way to validate those numbers would be to take it to another Dyno, try a 0-60 test, and race other vehicles.

All of which will happen in the near future, hopefully.
 
There is huge potential in these engines. Dual overhead cam, large valves, fairly straight and well cast intake and exhaust ports.

It’s awesome to see a nicely setup truck running on the highway.

Look forward to more feedback as you get some time with the truck. I do agree the dyno readings seem a touch high but you have so many modifications and such a different setup than we had here. I don’t think anyone can really compare apples to apples. Unless someone ran a bone stock Gen I 1FZ on the same dyno.

And the math does work out for that to be ft/lbs of torque not Nm. Hp=(torque*rpm)/5250. The torque peak at 3433 =381hp. And then a couple hundred RPM later you have your hp peak of 384. So it’s not like some of the Aussie dynos that are off by a factor of 2, because they are only picking up RPM signal from 1 of the 2 wasted spark leads
 
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That could be true, but in this case the person who tuned it is me? And I am not associated with the workshop or the Dyno…that is unless the Dyno owner has it setup like that permanently.

Either way the first 1FZ setup I took their had the proper numbers which makes me think that place is credible.

5.3 L V8, if I am not mistaken in the case that you have more displacement divided into fewer cylinders you would have more torque down low and a lower peak power and vice versa. Not sure by how much though.


The only other way to validate those numbers would be to take it to another Dyno, try a 0-60 test, and race other vehicles.

All of which will happen in the near future, hopefully.
That's true on v8 vs I6. I honestly think the torque is in nm. And even then converted to 430ftlbs at the wheels would be very impressive and doable. What is the rod length?
 
If you are a tuner that has a dyno shop, and your tunes produce the best power, then it's a huge advertisement. If the dyno is set to give generous numbers, then it gives the illusion of the tuner being a really good tuner without all the actual effort/skill. I noticed there are no units next to the numbers. So maybe it's in hp and nm? Keep in mind a 5.7 tundra with dual vvti typically does 300-330tq at the rear wheels. If your torque is in nm then that translates to 430ftlbs. 430ftlbs I could possibly see at the wheels possibly but that I'm kind of skeptical of as well. A stroker kit does tend to increase torque though.
In the end its not so much peak power or numbers but rather if it runs how you need it to. However if the numbers seem really far on a dyno-well part of the intent of a dyno run is to get a somewhat accurate reading of power output.

That could be true, but in this case the person who tuned it is me? And I am not associated with the workshop or the Dyno…that is unless the Dyno owner has it setup like that permanently.

Either way the first 1FZ setup I took their had the proper numbers which makes me think that place is credible.

5.3 L V8, if I am not mistaken in the case that you have more displacement divided into fewer cylinders you would have more torque down low and a lower peak power and vice versa. Not sure by how much though.


The only other way to validate those numbers would be to take it to another Dyno, try a 0-60 test, and race other vehicles.

All of which will happen in the near future, hopefully.

If the dyno shop has not produced this build, or done the tune, it would actually be in their interest to report smaller numbers so they could initiate tuning work to increase whats showing. it's in their interest for the numbers to be down and not up in this circumstance if I understand correctly. We will have to take them as accurate.

Cool build BTW.
 
Raced my pal with his stock 2022 LC300 with the 3.5L V6 Twin Turbo (409 hp & 479 pound feet at the crank in case you were not aware, also worth noting that the LC300 is lighter 2400kg vs the stroker which is 2600kg), and It was awesome, managed to beat him by a good distance. He was on sport + the whole time (he tried both the manual shift and the D) , we tried both rolling race and launch from a dead stop. Even with soft on road tires @30 PSI the stroker has some trouble launching without wheel spin.

I am exceptionably grateful and happy with the build results as of right now, thing is a beast, it is violent in the first two gears, the seat of the pants feel is thrilling, especially when you stab the throttle at peak torque.

I will be testing it against more vehicles, this is fun had a blast with this thing, especially seeing his reaction.

Here are the clips of the races, I apologize for the shaky footage, I was focusing on recording, shifting at the powerband, and well not crashing.

 
That thing sounds amazing!!!
 
That's really good. So that's a 115mm stroke? Did they have to modify the block for that?
no, the mechanic told me that 115m is about the limit before cutting and trimming would need to be done. The biggest crank fitted on a 1FZ at the garage I worked with was 124mm.

He claims anything larger than 115m would be too much of a headache to get running properly.

Also worth noting that this stroker kit came as a package, swapping rods and pistons would not be possible unless they are identical in terms of dimensions. Which is why I am ordering spare pistons for when I inevitably burn the current set after a good amount of abuse.
 
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That thing sounds amazing!!!
Yes indeed! That’s the best part about an N/A build they sound exhilarating as the rev , never gets old and never fails to get the blood pumping.

I can’t wait till the bigger cams arrive, that paired with an even larger throttle body and an even larger intake manifold. The new camshaft is so large the head is going to need trimming work around the valves to fit the lobes properly.

Revving up to 7,500 or even 8,000 with 5.5L is going to be pure adrenaline.
 
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I am surprised more 80 series aren't getting this kind of work done in the USA.
 
I would not imagine nor believe those dyno datalogging numbers #'s are in ft/lbs. I have no chassis dyno experience, but on real water brake engine dyno's it's easy to fudge the correction values for temperature and elevation to get big numbers on the screen. Most shops with dynos do that to get numbers the customer wants to see. As I understand it, chassis dynos are often inertia based which has some inherent problems with getting accurate numbers since it's totally impossible to calculate anything steady state.
 

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