- Thread starter
- #161
you could totally just drill some holes in flat bar or tube and it would work fine. I know it's a flex to plasma cut one but if you got'em smoke'um.
Builds 1997 HZJ77HV-PEU Build (Grey Poupon) (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter sleepydad69
- Start date
-
- Tags
- build thread
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
you could totally just drill some holes in flat bar or tube and it would work fine. I know it's a flex to plasma cut one but if you got'em smoke'um.
- Thread starter
- #162
it was tool building day I guess today.... also made up a rear wheel bearing socket/pin thing. I know there is a legit Toyota one but now I have one that seems to work just fine. I will need to file down the treads on the business end because they get hung up a bit but otherwise perfect.
I just tapped the holes with an M8 1.25 tap and re-used some old studs. It’s only 3/16” thick so that might not be enough to last. If so, I’ll go find the Toyota one. But for now, one more hump smoothed out.
I just tapped the holes with an M8 1.25 tap and re-used some old studs. It’s only 3/16” thick so that might not be enough to last. If so, I’ll go find the Toyota one. But for now, one more hump smoothed out.
On the flange tool, you will see some other spacing across models, but that’s easy to just add some other holes!
As for the tool, I recently had to borrow one to work on my rear hubs, but one I saw that I want to make is milling out 3 of the corners on a 54mm socket. Then it works for front a rear in one tool.
I've been prepping for a potential rear seal/bearing refresh, so today I've been collecting threads on making the Rear Axle Bearing Lock Nut Wrench. Special Service Tool (SST) part number 09509-25011
I've added these two posts to my collection of four threads!
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1997-hzj77hv-peu-build.1299043/post-14868340
Builds - 1997 HZJ77HV-PEU Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1997-hzj77hv-peu-build.1299043/post-14868372
Full floater bearing adjustment... - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/full-floater-bearing-adjustment.226090/
Rear axle service - homemade SST socket - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-axle-service-homemade-sst-socket.303013/
sst tool for rear axle rebuild - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sst-tool-for-rear-axle-rebuild.110298/
Rear axle locknut SST - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-axle-locknut-sst.12125
I've added these two posts to my collection of four threads!
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1997-hzj77hv-peu-build.1299043/post-14868340
Builds - 1997 HZJ77HV-PEU Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1997-hzj77hv-peu-build.1299043/post-14868372
Full floater bearing adjustment... - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/full-floater-bearing-adjustment.226090/
Rear axle service - homemade SST socket - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-axle-service-homemade-sst-socket.303013/
sst tool for rear axle rebuild - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sst-tool-for-rear-axle-rebuild.110298/
Rear axle locknut SST - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-axle-locknut-sst.12125
What a great all-in-one solution! SST 09509-25011 and 09607-60020 are both available still last time I checked but modifying an existing 54mm socket this way is great.
Totally, I'm all about dual purpose tools! Especially when its only 43lbs ft of torque.
Apologies if this is taking away from your build thread, and to the people that can make/modify the 54 mm hub socket... there is a dual purpose one available on ebay. Seems good value when you take into account buying the hub socket and then milling or modifying it to do the rear axle.
Toyota Land Cruiser 54mm Hub Socket Front Rear Wheel Bearing Nut Full Float | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Toyota Land Cruiser 54mm Hub Socket Front Rear Wheel Bearing Nut Full Float at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
- Thread starter
- #168
Apologies if this is taking away from your build thread, and to the people that can make/modify the 54 mm hub socket... there is a dual purpose one available on ebay. Seems good value when you take into account buying the hub socket and then milling or modifying it to do the rear axle.
Toyota Land Cruiser 54mm Hub Socket Front Rear Wheel Bearing Nut Full Float | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Toyota Land Cruiser 54mm Hub Socket Front Rear Wheel Bearing Nut Full Float at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!www.ebay.com
it's fine. all good info is welcome. if I was super crazy OCD about the build being submitted to the library of congress I might care. That is not the case. just a bunch of nutters dumping nerd info. it's all good.
- Thread starter
- #169
I wanted to check the 3rd before I shipped it off.... because that is a long and expensive process.
anyways... I decide to gin up a 9.5 service holder ring. I have done a couple of 3rds and the last one I did is still rolling fine @ about 30K miles.
needed to figure out the dimensions of the housing. door card practice made this pretty easy. only took 2x tries to get it nailed
After I had the ring, I then made up a quickie flat pattern cut holder contraption that will mount to the front of a cheap hobo freight engine stand.
NICE that works well and it's very solid. not sure I would want to bang out the races but everything else seems well. and I'm a bit rusty having not welding a thing in 3 months or more.
anyways... I decide to gin up a 9.5 service holder ring. I have done a couple of 3rds and the last one I did is still rolling fine @ about 30K miles.
needed to figure out the dimensions of the housing. door card practice made this pretty easy. only took 2x tries to get it nailed
After I had the ring, I then made up a quickie flat pattern cut holder contraption that will mount to the front of a cheap hobo freight engine stand.
NICE that works well and it's very solid. not sure I would want to bang out the races but everything else seems well. and I'm a bit rusty having not welding a thing in 3 months or more.
- Thread starter
- #170
Now that we can have our way with that big nasty 3rd. I put a new nut on the drive pinion and got the pre-load back in spec.
Once that was good I checked the back lash and it's about .007 so that is at the top of the range but still not out of spec yet.
the one thing about re-using old ring gear / pinion setups is the patters are usually not text book. this one is getting like a full bite off the entire ring on both forward and reverse. so... I guess it's not exactly surprising? I think I'm going to put it back in and run it. I should probably check the ring ring runout and flange runout now that I'm putting this down in words.
I think what happens is people run them with the fluid low and it starves the pinion bearings so they get worn more quickly. it also makes them pretty noisy IMO. I will have to price out getting a spare one of these on hand. not sure if the 80 series have the same LSD setup and it's just a matter of swapping out the case.
Once that was good I checked the back lash and it's about .007 so that is at the top of the range but still not out of spec yet.
the one thing about re-using old ring gear / pinion setups is the patters are usually not text book. this one is getting like a full bite off the entire ring on both forward and reverse. so... I guess it's not exactly surprising? I think I'm going to put it back in and run it. I should probably check the ring ring runout and flange runout now that I'm putting this down in words.
I think what happens is people run them with the fluid low and it starves the pinion bearings so they get worn more quickly. it also makes them pretty noisy IMO. I will have to price out getting a spare one of these on hand. not sure if the 80 series have the same LSD setup and it's just a matter of swapping out the case.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #171
I spent a couple of hours... ok more like 6 hours re-habilitating my rear hubs. I am sooo slow.
New bearings/races all new hardware, seals and while I was @ it wheel studs. Ready for install.
New bearings/races all new hardware, seals and while I was @ it wheel studs. Ready for install.
- Thread starter
- #172
while I was under the truck today scraping off the old gasket on the axle assembly thinking to myself - I wonder what Shania Twain is doing today?
I noticed something interesting.... hmm that does not look factory?
turns out the baffle was only just sitting there and not engaged on the tabs? interesting? I wonder if that has been the source of the noise and the excess metal sludge in the rear end? after taking it out and cleaning off the 25 years of sludge. hmmm yea that is not working as designed, I think? so, I was able to order one... Jesus I'm never going to get this thing back on the road.
I noticed something interesting.... hmm that does not look factory?
turns out the baffle was only just sitting there and not engaged on the tabs? interesting? I wonder if that has been the source of the noise and the excess metal sludge in the rear end? after taking it out and cleaning off the 25 years of sludge. hmmm yea that is not working as designed, I think? so, I was able to order one... Jesus I'm never going to get this thing back on the road.
- Thread starter
- #173
ATF cooler install madness
FACT NO ROOM up front NONE, I already rekt one cooler by trying to jam it into the space above the power steering lines. just not going to fit.
here is where I ended up.
I love the front porch on these trucks. When I first encounter them long ago I always wondered why? PTO? Winch? picknick spot? But I'm going to have to give way to common sense for the new non ATF cooler radiator. Everything has pro's n con's, losing the front porch is sad but necessary for the survival of the transmission.
I cut 3 mostly matching rectangles into the bumper, this will allow air flow. the ATF cooler is mounted on some little m6 Rubber Mounts Shock Absorber things. So it’s hard connected to the front bumper. It’s still going to lead a hard life for sure but hopefully the rubber mounts help. I put a new bumper on order since mine is tweeked anyways. I will have to re-do this part so this was good practice. I will also have to figure out some mesh to help keep zombie parts out of the bumper holes. maybe some chicken wire and duct tape?
I fabricated a couple different versions of bumper mounts. I reused the nut strips that attach the front porch wings. So it’s really only mounted on 4x M10 now but… after snugging everything down it’s solid as a rock. I made the brackets out of 10 gauge. Also put a hole in the connecting portion so hopefully if the bumper bumps something that will be the folding point. I will have to wait a couple of weeks for sure before I can paint everything. I have no place to paint inside and it’s still single digits outside here in frozen tundra land.
FACT NO ROOM up front NONE, I already rekt one cooler by trying to jam it into the space above the power steering lines. just not going to fit.
here is where I ended up.
I love the front porch on these trucks. When I first encounter them long ago I always wondered why? PTO? Winch? picknick spot? But I'm going to have to give way to common sense for the new non ATF cooler radiator. Everything has pro's n con's, losing the front porch is sad but necessary for the survival of the transmission.
I cut 3 mostly matching rectangles into the bumper, this will allow air flow. the ATF cooler is mounted on some little m6 Rubber Mounts Shock Absorber things. So it’s hard connected to the front bumper. It’s still going to lead a hard life for sure but hopefully the rubber mounts help. I put a new bumper on order since mine is tweeked anyways. I will have to re-do this part so this was good practice. I will also have to figure out some mesh to help keep zombie parts out of the bumper holes. maybe some chicken wire and duct tape?
I fabricated a couple different versions of bumper mounts. I reused the nut strips that attach the front porch wings. So it’s really only mounted on 4x M10 now but… after snugging everything down it’s solid as a rock. I made the brackets out of 10 gauge. Also put a hole in the connecting portion so hopefully if the bumper bumps something that will be the folding point. I will have to wait a couple of weeks for sure before I can paint everything. I have no place to paint inside and it’s still single digits outside here in frozen tundra land.
- Thread starter
- #174
and just for reference this is what the ATF cooler is mounted on, they seem ok so far.
- Thread starter
- #175
also going to post this info and I hope it was not a waste of money.
I ordered the
L/CRUISER 76 SERIES WAGON KIT
with charcoal plush pile and standard underfelt. The picture looks promising... I'm sure it's not a perfect fit but @ this point getting flooring is either a custom deal or take some concession for 77 owners.
knoxautocarpets.com.au
I ordered the
L/CRUISER 76 SERIES WAGON KIT
with charcoal plush pile and standard underfelt. The picture looks promising... I'm sure it's not a perfect fit but @ this point getting flooring is either a custom deal or take some concession for 77 owners.
L/CRUISER 76 SERIES WAGON KIT
Car Carpet, Moulded Car Carpets, Auto Carpet |Knox Auto Carpets are Australia's largest supplier and manufacturer of moulded car carpet | Order online now!
knoxautocarpets.com.au
- Thread starter
- #176
Science experiment #2875 has been completed A442F cooler lines.
I searched all the FSM and trans service stuff but nothing really says here is the output and input. as far as I could see. I guess if you were taking them apart it would be obvious. But I’m not doing that, yet.
the parts diagram does spec
HOSE, OIL COOLER OUTLET, NO.1
HOSE, OIL COOLER INLET, NO.1
the parts diagram does match with what I see IRL.
I started the truck with the cooler tubes attached to clear tubes going into a container. Yes, the left tube is the output. Marked red hot out and blue cool back in. it's a critical difference and I wanted to make sure I was 100% correct with the thermostatic bypass. mystery solved.
I searched all the FSM and trans service stuff but nothing really says here is the output and input. as far as I could see. I guess if you were taking them apart it would be obvious. But I’m not doing that, yet.
the parts diagram does spec
HOSE, OIL COOLER OUTLET, NO.1
HOSE, OIL COOLER INLET, NO.1
the parts diagram does match with what I see IRL.
I started the truck with the cooler tubes attached to clear tubes going into a container. Yes, the left tube is the output. Marked red hot out and blue cool back in. it's a critical difference and I wanted to make sure I was 100% correct with the thermostatic bypass. mystery solved.
- Thread starter
- #177
go team spring clip!
I need to remember this for next time, I always say "this is the only time I will do this..."
For reference whoever plays for team spring clip and needs 3/8" OD tubing onto something else spec’d for 3/8”. Here is a hose/clamp combo that works very well. it's just enough of a pain so it's not slide on with fingers but not so hard you’re poking your eyes out doing it.
I need to remember this for next time, I always say "this is the only time I will do this..."
For reference whoever plays for team spring clip and needs 3/8" OD tubing onto something else spec’d for 3/8”. Here is a hose/clamp combo that works very well. it's just enough of a pain so it's not slide on with fingers but not so hard you’re poking your eyes out doing it.
- Thread starter
- #178
build tip of the day
if you want to replace the rubber pads around the power steering or ATF cooler lines these ones work. The originals are discontinued or superseded or something? but these ones I had left over from my T4R are exactly the same and work perfect for replacing those old rock hard 25 year old cushions.
if you want to replace the rubber pads around the power steering or ATF cooler lines these ones work. The originals are discontinued or superseded or something? but these ones I had left over from my T4R are exactly the same and work perfect for replacing those old rock hard 25 year old cushions.
- Thread starter
- #179
Stardate 100811.15
ATF cooler mount proto-type version 2023.03.19.549 I ended up ditching the welded version in favor of re-use existing bumper mounting holes. a little awkward because they are made for M12 fasteners. would hold a really heavy oil cooler assembly :/
this worked out pretty well... was a bit of pain to the get MacGyver brackets dialed in but they give it some vibration isolation.
I'm just going to run flex tube for now as it's not very far and I want to see how well this works before I get into crazy bending hard tube. I do like hard lines over soft if possible.
Now I need to come up with a little understated yet amazingly incredible trim/screen protector assemblies to hide my precision cuts. and drill some holes to re-locate the plate. MN requires front plates.
ATF cooler mount proto-type version 2023.03.19.549 I ended up ditching the welded version in favor of re-use existing bumper mounting holes. a little awkward because they are made for M12 fasteners. would hold a really heavy oil cooler assembly :/
this worked out pretty well... was a bit of pain to the get MacGyver brackets dialed in but they give it some vibration isolation.
I'm just going to run flex tube for now as it's not very far and I want to see how well this works before I get into crazy bending hard tube. I do like hard lines over soft if possible.
Now I need to come up with a little understated yet amazingly incredible trim/screen protector assemblies to hide my precision cuts. and drill some holes to re-locate the plate. MN requires front plates.
