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- #201
OMG so shiny... I will need to rub some dirt and mud on it
17x9 | 6x5.5 | -44mm/3.5" | MR10679060344B
17x9 | 6x5.5 | -44mm/3.5" | MR10679060344B
Builds 1997 HZJ77HV-PEU Build (Grey Poupon)
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- #202
finally got a good transfer shift boot. happy with the results. I did make a little bit more fancy than stock one with double French seams.
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- #203
and grind thru the new parts pile, did the easy part first. Can't say bleeding masters is my favorite job but it's pretty easy and this made a nice improvement in the brake pedal feeling. it's much easier to find the brakes now. the old seals were a bit flakey.
I can't imagine I am the only one who is curious to see how these look installed
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- #205
I'm still waiting on 3 of them
I think saturday the rest are due for delivery. I will post when completed.
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- #206
I ordered a pair - STEDI 7 INCH CARBON BLACK LED HEADLIGHT PAIR (FOR LANDCRUISER)
in the specs
VOLTAGE COMPATIBILITY 12v & 24v
I was pretty excited because the H4's are really terrible. I can't ever go back. once you have high end headlights living in white tail dear country... you need better headlights. IMO
But I seemed to have missed the detail about - additional H4 CANBUS to resolve negative switching only being 12V
really too bad because it makes the 24V compatibility worthless for negative switched vehicals. sigh.
and yes you will burn both headlight fuses! I'm so stupid sometimes.
in the specs
VOLTAGE COMPATIBILITY 12v & 24v
I was pretty excited because the H4's are really terrible. I can't ever go back. once you have high end headlights living in white tail dear country... you need better headlights. IMO
But I seemed to have missed the detail about - additional H4 CANBUS to resolve negative switching only being 12V
really too bad because it makes the 24V compatibility worthless for negative switched vehicals. sigh.
and yes you will burn both headlight fuses! I'm so stupid sometimes.
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- #207
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- #209
I ordered a pair - STEDI 7 INCH CARBON BLACK LED HEADLIGHT PAIR (FOR LANDCRUISER)
in the specs
VOLTAGE COMPATIBILITY 12v & 24v
I was pretty excited because the H4's are really terrible. I can't ever go back. once you have high end headlights living in white tail dear country... you need better headlights. IMO
But I seemed to have missed the detail about - additional H4 CANBUS to resolve negative switching only being 12V
really too bad because it makes the 24V compatibility worthless for negative switched vehicals. sigh.
and yes you will burn both headlight fuses! I'm so stupid sometimes.
View attachment 3299249
all right negative switched headlight wire harness and prototype mounting bracket seems good. Will need to fire up the plasma robot and cut one out of aluminum.
I used the EasyAs alternator sensing ignition source relay to power the DRL light function on these lights. This way I get DRL if the engine is running. The headlights still function as normal headlights so you can turn them on/off independently of the DRL feature. so as long as the truck is running you don't have to remember to turn on the headlights, you just get a DRL like feature. worked like a charm, I still think it's a super clever product and for the correct application it's the bees’ knees.
High Beam: 2.4a @ 13.6v
Low Beam: 1.6a @ 13.6v
Park Light: 0.2a @ 13.6v
will have to tape it all up with Tesa tape and get it tucked into place.
and yes, the high beams indicator is gone. Will have to sort that out here. It’s always something.One thing I had no idea these even existed until very recently. I'm a label guy I love labels, nerd I know. But the heat shrink tube that can be printed on with the cheapo brother label printer is pretty darn cool. really helps keep track of things. I like it.
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Had to Google DRL, Day Time Running Lights, for anyone wondering.
Nice job on the labels, that's gonna be helpful in a year or two..
Nice job on the labels, that's gonna be helpful in a year or two..
Don't feel bad, I wasted a couple of hours troubleshooting my new lamps wondering why hibeams didn't work before I figured out it was a ground switch.all right negative switched headlight wire harness and prototype mounting bracket seems good. Will need to fire up the plasma robot and cut one out of aluminum.
I used the EasyAs alternator sensing ignition source relay to power the DRL light function on these lights. This way I get DRL if the engine is running. The headlights still function as normal headlights so you can turn them on/off independently of the DRL feature. so as long as the truck is running you don't have to remember to turn on the headlights, you just get a DRL like feature. worked like a charm, I still think it's a super clever product and for the correct application it's the bees’ knees.
High Beam: 2.4a @ 13.6v
Low Beam: 1.6a @ 13.6v
Park Light: 0.2a @ 13.6v
will have to tape it all up with Tesa tape and get it tucked into place.
View attachment 3302659
One thing I had no idea these even existed until very recently. I'm a label guy I love labels, nerd I know. But the heat shrink tube that can be printed on with the cheapo brother label printer is pretty darn cool. really helps keep track of things. I like it.
View attachment 3302668
I put in relays for that, and I also thought the hi-beam indicator no longer worked. Because the LED bulbs draw less power, I think it just isn't as bright. That is ok too, as when you actually use them (when it is dark) you can see the hi-beam indicator ok enough to realize they are on.
At some point I plan on installing some LED bulbs in the dash (I like a higher contrast) and I figured replacing the bulb for the hi-beam indicator with an led one should make it brighter at the lower current draw. Hopefully that is all yours will take too. Nice work... I love your new method rims!!
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- #212
Ha same thing happened to me. The high beam indicator is on but it’s much fainter than before.Don't feel bad, I wasted a couple of hours troubleshooting my new lamps wondering why hibeams didn't work before I figured out it was a ground switch.
I put in relays for that, and I also thought the hi-beam indicator no longer worked. Because the LED bulbs draw less power, I think it just isn't as bright. That is ok too, as when you actually use them (when it is dark) you can see the hi-beam indicator ok enough to realize they are on.
At some point I plan on installing some LED bulbs in the dash (I like a higher contrast) and I figured replacing the bulb for the hi-beam indicator with an led one should make it brighter at the lower current draw. Hopefully that is all yours will take too. Nice work... I love your new method rims!!
It’s strange, I need to take a look at the wire diagrams again on that circuit. Pretty sure those indicator lights are negative switched as well.
I also have a small pile of LED that should fit the cluster slots. Next time I have the cluster off I was going to try them.
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- #213
tied up loose ends for the headlights
and if I learnt anything owning this truck is leaf sprung, diesel trucks need everything mounted on rubber baby bumpers.
and everything tucked away as well as it can be, not too bad.
Truck now has happy face
and if I learnt anything owning this truck is leaf sprung, diesel trucks need everything mounted on rubber baby bumpers.
and everything tucked away as well as it can be, not too bad.
Truck now has happy face
- Thread starter
- #215
I do a lot of things to my truck I don't post but I decided to post this one in the hopes some unsuspecting hooplehead stumbles thru and notices this one. That injection pump has like 11 billion little pokey things making it even more fun.
replace your bypass hose stuff people! after 25 years it's way past due. I'm still waiting on 3 of my hoses from Japan but I should have them next week. Then it's onto the fuel system and those little bastards.
This is what my hoses look like on the inside, it was time. The outsides look fine. Cheap insurance IMO.
The little guys going to the pump were not nearly as bad but these are not a family fun time picknick to replace.
replace your bypass hose stuff people! after 25 years it's way past due. I'm still waiting on 3 of my hoses from Japan but I should have them next week. Then it's onto the fuel system and those little bastards.
This is what my hoses look like on the inside, it was time. The outsides look fine. Cheap insurance IMO.
The little guys going to the pump were not nearly as bad but these are not a family fun time picknick to replace.
I couldn't agree more. I replaced every piece of rubber in the fuel system, and the metal lines except for the one that runs higher up on the firewall. And my truck has hardly any rust and is only 21 yrs old. Now it runs beautifully, instant starts, no smoke.
I am sure @JDM Journeys would also concur after his recent adventures down the diesel cologne rabbit hole of despair...
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- #217
In the quest to replace all things rubber!
@ first I was thinking how namby pamby because M6, but after removing the old ones these are the best dam exhaust mounts ever. The old mounts always are rusted and or fused into place, so this way it sure makes it easy to snap right off.
Slight improvement for sure in exhaust vibes as well. Very very slowly each rubber thingy I replace makes it smoother.
@ first I was thinking how namby pamby because M6, but after removing the old ones these are the best dam exhaust mounts ever. The old mounts always are rusted and or fused into place, so this way it sure makes it easy to snap right off.
Slight improvement for sure in exhaust vibes as well. Very very slowly each rubber thingy I replace makes it smoother.
JDM Journeys
Moderator
Couldn't agree more. The family picnic fun time gets more nightmare on Elm Street like as you move back towards the fuel tank...
all right negative switched headlight wire harness and prototype mounting bracket seems good. Will need to fire up the plasma robot and cut one out of aluminum.
I used the EasyAs alternator sensing ignition source relay to power the DRL light function on these lights. This way I get DRL if the engine is running. The headlights still function as normal headlights so you can turn them on/off independently of the DRL feature. so as long as the truck is running you don't have to remember to turn on the headlights, you just get a DRL like feature. worked like a charm, I still think it's a super clever product and for the correct application it's the bees’ knees.
High Beam: 2.4a @ 13.6v
Low Beam: 1.6a @ 13.6v
Park Light: 0.2a @ 13.6v
will have to tape it all up with Tesa tape and get it tucked into place.
View attachment 3302659
One thing I had no idea these even existed until very recently. I'm a label guy I love labels, nerd I know. But the heat shrink tube that can be printed on with the cheapo brother label printer is pretty darn cool. really helps keep track of things. I like it.
View attachment 3302668
Forgive the electrical idiot question cuz I'm a bit challenged in this category but am very interested in upgrading the headlights on my 24v HZJ77 to LED much like what you did sans the DRL fanciness
Do you happen to have pn/sources/links to what you purchased for lights and harness to accommodate the negative switching shenanigans to make it work?
Tx
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- #220
you need a negative switch wire harness; the problem is 100% of these pre-wired solutions are 12V relays. more on this point lower in the post. I got this one from amazon
Amazon product ASIN B07M6W1PMK
Then you will need some 24V relays, I used these ones
Amazon product ASIN B07L2H67BN
you will then need to swap out the 12V relays for the 24V ones, I re-pinned the relays, but if you can find some with the same sockets you should just be able to swap in the 24V relays.
for the DRL function, I used one of these
EasyAs IGNITION SENSING RELAY 12/24V 8amp 5 PIN | Relays
EasyAs alternator sensing ignition source is one of the easiest ways to find an ignition source in a vehicle when wiring up devises requiring ignition or control connections. Description Finding a suitable ignition source in modern vehicles can be a royal pain in the butt. At best it is...
perthpro.com.au
This will give you a +12V wire that indicates the engine is running. I integrated that into the harness and connected to the wire on the lights for the DRL function. Another member here sourced some from Australia. He is a semi-professional smuggler
hope that makes sense?
If you can find a 24V relay based negative switched harness it would be much easier, I was able to locate some in Australia. It was just easier for me to source them locally.
