Build 94 KZJ78 Prado Build

[kgrove]

Ah I will explore the tube route. I rather not permanently cut into anything if I don't have to. I'll still need to have hole for the EGT probe somewhere though...



That looks very tidy The 33s definitely fills up the well nicely. My only concern is the performance (or lack of) going up to 33s, and given the stock is wheel is only 15x7, many tyre options for 32s or 33s do not recommend fitting below 8 or 8.5. I take it you have no issues fitting on OEM? What about when airing down?

Removing the egr pipe was a bear, but the best part about removing it is the blank is an outstanding spot for the EGT probe. Where I wish I had done mine was the exhaust manifold, but it's not easy either... Especially if you want to go the extra mile and remove the manifold so you don't put metal shavings through the turbo vanes (I've heard arguments for and against tapping the exhaust manifold in place, so I'd suggest researching and form your own conclusion). If you do tap the manifold, you'd also have to create a hole in the heat shield for the wire to the probe. This would be the most elegant solution, but was above my skill level.

The 12.5 wide BFGs fit on the 15x7 OEM wheels, so I imagine the 10.5 wide would as well unless BFG has changed their specs in the last 5+ years. I can't answer the airing down question. I never air down... The off-roading I do is just graded dirt roads that will get slick or sloppy from rain, but are never bad enough to air down. In all honesty, I could take a Honda Civic to most of the spots I go off-roading to reach. I just wouldn't look as cool. And a Honda Civic filled with mud and stinky fishing gear is more of a problem than a LC. But mostly they're not as cool.

 

[chap79]

I second @kgrove. Removing the EGR is a PITA. I did mine while replacing the head on the motor. IIRC, I ended up removing the studs out of the head to be able to get the pipe out. I also used blocking plates, rerouted the vacuum lines and kept the VSV. EGT probe in the backing plate as I didn’t want to drill the cast exhaust manifold.

 

[WTK KZJ78]

Carried out a full service last week and had all new fluids including diff oils & filters replaced. PO had also put in a new alternator right before sale so car is running smooth. We popped off the intake manifold to inspect for any build up given its age but turns out it was very clean (I was hoping for it to be bad so I could do a before & after shot, lol) - it was either previously cleaned or it hasn't built up as much as I was anticipating, so all in all good news and given so I may just put this EGR delete on the backburner, and instead just look to put in a ProVent catch can - I've used them on previous diesel cars and always seen results.

I also asked about the 10-blade fan and mechanic mentioned these radiators are large/thick and doubts they will have any heating issues. Also said going up to the 10-blade will increase fan noise so need to weigh up whether it is necessary or not...I'll revisit this one when summer comes around.

After the service the car was brought over to the pits for the inspection and it passed - so it's now finally registered

For the inspection we removed the 50mm wheel spacers, as well as these front sway bar extension brackets (mech said they could also be illegal?). I can't notice any difference when driving after it was removed - are these required with a 2" lift? Mech doesn't seem to think so...

 

[WTK KZJ78]

We had a long weekend here so took the opportunity to head down south for a short camping trip. I installed some rhino-rack styled roof crossbars as I needed something to carry the camping gear. Haven't decided whether I want a full roof rack as that will restrict the sunroof function, so opted for a temporary solution with the cross bars.They worked well, could have done with a 4th bar but will see which way I go with my long term plan.

Also had tint reinstalled after the pit inspection. Went with 20% and 5% for the 3rd row & rear barn doors for added privacy.

 

[WTK KZJ78]

Installed some 7" spotties recently & looking forward to testing them on our next trip:

Next on the list are just some resto mods - parts finally arrived from Amayama: replacement driver side grab handle & missing hood prop rubber grommet.
I'll need to also order the RHS barn door latch as it's playing up, then going to do an upgrade to LED headlights & changing the 5x7 headlamp (current ones appear to be for LHD which affects oncoming traffic as we drive on the LHS). I believe the 5x7s are universal and not car specific?

 

[WTK KZJ78]

Installed a pair of rear door molle panels. Decided on these panels as they don't really obstruct views in the rear view mirror. Install took approx 30 mins.

 

[WTK KZJ78]

 

[WTK KZJ78]

Installed a 2" tow hitch so I'm now able to use a bike carrier. A bit of pain to get these on as a socket wouldn't fit, but we got there:

 

[nelsonic]

Did any of your power antenna work? Mine doesn't and I don't know where to start. How does it activate? Starting the car, or radio?

I also have an aftermarket unit (Pioneer ZF9350BT) and not sure whether that had anything to do with it. I didn't install the unit so I don't know whether it was working before either.

Mine also had an aftermarket unit when I got it and had the same issue where the power antenna didn't work. I removed it and reinstalled the OEM radio and the antenna came up when power is applied to the radio. It comes up when the radio is turned on or the vehicle is started, and the radio was left on prior to shut off.

I don't know what specifically was wired with the aftermarket unit that caused the antenna not to work, and I didn't really look into it since the unit was a Japanese domestic model that didn't have English on it, so it was getting removed either way.

 

[GTLOGTD]

Removing the egr pipe was a bear, but the best part about removing it is the blank is an outstanding spot for the EGT probe. Where I wish I had done mine was the exhaust manifold, but it's not easy either... Especially if you want to go the extra mile and remove the manifold so you don't put metal shavings through the turbo vanes (I've heard arguments for and against tapping the exhaust manifold in place, so I'd suggest researching and form your own conclusion). If you do tap the manifold, you'd also have to create a hole in the heat shield for the wire to the probe. This would be the most elegant solution, but was above my skill level.

The 12.5 wide BFGs fit on the 15x7 OEM wheels, so I imagine the 10.5 wide would as well unless BFG has changed their specs in the last 5+ years. I can't answer the airing down question. I never air down... The off-roading I do is just graded dirt roads that will get slick or sloppy from rain, but are never bad enough to air down. In all honesty, I could take a Honda Civic to most of the spots I go off-roading to reach. I just wouldn't look as cool. And a Honda Civic filled with mud and stinky fishing gear is more of a problem than a LC. But mostly they're not as cool.

I have a 94 KZJ78W JDM and am looking to get new wheels and tires on it for my 2.5" dobinson lift that I will be installing. I want the tires to be at the outer fenders with maybe a little poke out to better protect the panels on dirt and rock side walls where I will be going. (((Can you advise what your wheel offset is for your 33's and do you have any photos of your LC from the front showing the stance and have you had any tire rub with your setup?))) I am getting Dynapro MT2 33x12.50R15LT tires and 15x8 6x139.7 wheels and am looking for the best negative offset for this combination without the tires rubbing on anything. I am also fabricating the front and rear Coastal Offroad high clearance bumper sets which should give it some more room to prevent tire scrubbing. 265/70R15 tires on 15x7-inch wheels are the size wheels and tires that are on it in the photos. Definitely smaller than they need to be. This thing has never been offroad, and is incredibly clean underneath.

Unrelated to the tires, I installed a new viscous clutch with a new 10 blade fan and noticed almost immediately that my engine/water temp decreased in below ambient 32F degree weather so much so that my heater was ineffective and it was not heating the cab up sufficiently for my wife to want to be in it in central Indiana last month during the 15 degreesF that we had. I cut a .090 kydex sheet that covered the width of the radiator and 3/4 of the height at the top of the radiator to keep the direct cold forced air from driving from cooling the engine while driving and that seemed to help significantly. Driving with the worn down viscous clutch and 5 blade the oem temp gauge showed it in the middle, after the install it wouldn't even move the needle from the bottom of the gauge. After the kydex, the needle would stay just below the lower threshold of the normal range marks and the heat was much better in 20-30 degree weather. I have a water temp probe and an Auber digital guage for the EGR, water, and boost that I still need to install so I won't have solid data until I install the,. I did the EGR delete last week and haven't noticed anything negative yet so time will tell. I can tell you that my intake manifold and head intakes were disgustingly dirty with carbon and soot. I feel a cleaner system will run more reliably than one that is pooping in it's own pants. I too had to cut my EGR pipe off as it was blocked by the rear seat heater pipe and was a pain to get off. To clean the intake ports, I put each cylinder at TDC and sprayed brake clean into them and scrubbed with a brush and lint free towels and a screw driver. It took about 30 minute to clean each one. Thanks.

 

[AVL KZJ78]

I have a 94 KZJ78W JDM and am looking to get new wheels and tires on it for my 2.5" dobinson lift that I will be installing. I want the tires to be at the outer fenders with maybe a little poke out to better protect the panels on dirt and rock side walls where I will be going. (((Can you advise what your wheel offset is for your 33's and do you have any photos of your LC from the front showing the stance and have you had any tire rub with your setup?))) I am getting Dynapro MT2 33x12.50R15LT tires and 15x8 6x139.7 wheels and am looking for the best negative offset for this combination without the tires rubbing on anything. I am also fabricating the front and rear Coastal Offroad high clearance bumper sets which should give it some more room to prevent tire scrubbing. 265/70R15 tires on 15x7-inch wheels are the size wheels and tires that are on it in the photos. Definitely smaller than they need to be. This thing has never been offroad, and is incredibly clean underneath.

Unrelated to the tires, I installed a new viscous clutch with a new 10 blade fan and noticed almost immediately that my engine/water temp decreased in below ambient 32F degree weather so much so that my heater was ineffective and it was not heating the cab up sufficiently for my wife to want to be in it in central Indiana last month during the 15 degreesF that we had. I cut a .090 kydex sheet that covered the width of the radiator and 3/4 of the height at the top of the radiator to keep the direct cold forced air from driving from cooling the engine while driving and that seemed to help significantly. Driving with the worn down viscous clutch and 5 blade the oem temp gauge showed it in the middle, after the install it wouldn't even move the needle from the bottom of the gauge. After the kydex, the needle would stay just below the lower threshold of the normal range marks and the heat was much better in 20-30 degree weather. I have a water temp probe and an Auber digital guage for the EGR, water, and boost that I still need to install so I won't have solid data until I install the,. I did the EGR delete last week and haven't noticed anything negative yet so time will tell. I can tell you that my intake manifold and head intakes were disgustingly dirty with carbon and soot. I feel a cleaner system will run more reliably than one that is pooping in it's own pants. I too had to cut my EGR pipe off as it was blocked by the rear seat heater pipe and was a pain to get off. To clean the intake ports, I put each cylinder at TDC and sprayed brake clean into them and scrubbed with a brush and lint free towels and a screw driver. It took about 30 minute to clean each one. Thanks.
View attachment 4067928View attachment 4067929View attachment 4067930View attachment 4067932

It sounds like your thermostat is stuck open. Cooling at the radiator should not lower cabin heat unless the thermostat is open. Mine was, and also prevented the transmission from locking the torque converter because the engine was below the temperature threshold the ECU needs to see for lockup.

 

[AirheadNut]

I have a 94 KZJ78W JDM and am looking to get new wheels and tires on it for my 2.5" dobinson lift that I will be installing. I want the tires to be at the outer fenders with maybe a little poke out to better protect the panels on dirt and rock side walls where I will be going. (((Can you advise what your wheel offset is for your 33's and do you have any photos of your LC from the front showing the stance and have you had any tire rub with your setup?))) I am getting Dynapro MT2 33x12.50R15LT tires and 15x8 6x139.7 wheels and am looking for the best negative offset for this combination without the tires rubbing on anything. I am also fabricating the front and rear Coastal Offroad high clearance bumper sets which should give it some more room to prevent tire scrubbing. 265/70R15 tires on 15x7-inch wheels are the size wheels and tires that are on it in the photos. Definitely smaller than they need to be. This thing has never been offroad, and is incredibly clean underneath.

Unrelated to the tires, I installed a new viscous clutch with a new 10 blade fan and noticed almost immediately that my engine/water temp decreased in below ambient 32F degree weather so much so that my heater was ineffective and it was not heating the cab up sufficiently for my wife to want to be in it in central Indiana last month during the 15 degreesF that we had. I cut a .090 kydex sheet that covered the width of the radiator and 3/4 of the height at the top of the radiator to keep the direct cold forced air from driving from cooling the engine while driving and that seemed to help significantly. Driving with the worn down viscous clutch and 5 blade the oem temp gauge showed it in the middle, after the install it wouldn't even move the needle from the bottom of the gauge. After the kydex, the needle would stay just below the lower threshold of the normal range marks and the heat was much better in 20-30 degree weather. I have a water temp probe and an Auber digital guage for the EGR, water, and boost that I still need to install so I won't have solid data until I install the,. I did the EGR delete last week and haven't noticed anything negative yet so time will tell. I can tell you that my intake manifold and head intakes were disgustingly dirty with carbon and soot. I feel a cleaner system will run more reliably than one that is pooping in it's own pants. I too had to cut my EGR pipe off as it was blocked by the rear seat heater pipe and was a pain to get off. To clean the intake ports, I put each cylinder at TDC and sprayed brake clean into them and scrubbed with a brush and lint free towels and a screw driver. It took about 30 minute to clean each one. Thanks.
View attachment 4067928View attachment 4067929View attachment 4067930View attachment 4067932

That intake would certainly benefit from cleaning but it isn't very bad by EGR clogging standards. This was a VW TDI intake I had apart a few years back, around 220k miles on the car at the time. I have read that since the switch to ULSD in the US this problem is pretty much nonexistent.

 

[GTLOGTD]

That intake would certainly benefit from cleaning but it isn't very bad by EGR clogging standards. This was a VW TDI intake I had apart a few years back, around 220k miles on the car at the time. I have read that since the switch to ULSD in the US this problem is pretty much nonexistent.
View attachment 4068037

View attachment 4068038

Those ports are downright criminal! The environmental garbage is all just a money making scam!

 

[Brucetheprado]

@kgrove - Great information about EGR delete. I got my 78 series a year ago and did a delete but just put it back so I could get through our tougher emissions inspections in Colorado. I am going to install a Prosport EGT Gauge this weekend (pre-turbo). Did you install yours yourself or take it in to your shop? Thanks in advance.

 

[kgrove]

@kgrove - Great information about EGR delete. I got my 78 series a year ago and did a delete but just put it back so I could get through our tougher emissions inspections in Colorado. I am going to install a Prosport EGT Gauge this weekend (pre-turbo). Did you install yours yourself or take it in to your shop? Thanks in advance.

I did the install myself. I used Glowshift 3-1 gauge for mine... mixed reviews. Glowshift is pretty bare bones for functionality - no alarms, readability isn't great, not convinced it will last long, but it was cheap. In hindsight the boost pressure gauge is really not useful, at least not for engine safety purposes. The coolant temperature and EGTs really help me keep track of how hard I'm pushing the engine, but boost pressure really doesn't tell me anything capable of changing how I drive or that will help protect the engine from my stupidity.