Builds 1996 HZJ75 Land Cruiser Pickup

[Broski]

Also, my fabricator was able to make a PTO blank using my trim ring.

I used Toyota 4E9 paint to match the interior, but it’s a little off. I’m not sure if it bothers me enough to pull the cover and repaint it black though.

Looks like he did a nice job !
If you do decide to pull it and paint I would use the same 4E9 paint on the trim ring.
Then it would look more like the transmission cover

 

[Will Van]

As it turns out, it does bother me enough to pull it and repaint it black.

 

[Will Van]

Looks like he did a nice job !
If you do decide to pull it and paint I would use the same 4E9 paint on the trim ring.
Then it would look more like the transmission cover

Unfortunately the PO didn’t get the repaint exactly correct. So my 4E9 touch-up paint is never going to match identically.

If I painted the cover AND the trim ring 4E9, it would just mean that neither matches the trans cover.

 

[Honger]

On my way home from LA, my speedo quit working. I assumed it was the speedo cable, but when I replaced it this week, it was still making a terrible noise. I decided to pull the cluster again and use my old cable in a hand drill to see if it would duplicate the noise. Sure enough, the cluster itself started making a terrible racket and wouldn’t display speed. The needle would jump around a little, but mostly just made a lot of plastic grinding noise.

I had previously suspected that the displayed mileage (36,000 km) was incorrect. This info supports that idea, and the cluster was probably rolled-back and tampered with at some point.

Either way, I am going to replace the cluster with a donor that includes tach. I’m still looking for the right cluster. I had originally planned on using a Canadian-spec BJ70 cluster because they include MPH (and RPM), but have since realized that the mounting tabs and electronic plugs are different.

FWIW the speedo issue could also just be age. I thought I had a cable issue as well (and actually, I did). Upon replacing the speedo able I still have problems with the speedo... it manifests when the car is cold. I figure I just need to get in there and clean. May be worth a shot.

 

[Will Van]

FWIW the speedo issue could also just be age. I thought I had a cable issue as well (and actually, I did). Upon replacing the speedo able I still have problems with the speedo... it manifests when the car is cold. I figure I just need to get in there and clean. May be worth a shot.

Thanks for the intel. I may still mess around with it and try to clean it up. Lots of fesh-fesh everywhere.

But I still need tach, so I expect a new cluster is in my future.

Thx!

 

[Guyute]

FWIW the speedo issue could also just be age. I thought I had a cable issue as well (and actually, I did). Upon replacing the speedo able I still have problems with the speedo... it manifests when the car is cold. I figure I just need to get in there and clean. May be worth a shot.

Love your build.

Same here on the speedometer. Plastic on plastic grinding noise, bouncing needle. Replaced speedo cable, then cluster and issue came back. Bounced the needle so much it broke off. Only seems to happen when cold and wet for me. Scares the living sh1t out of my dog every time. Keep us posted.

 

[Honger]

Love your build.

Same here on the speedometer. Plastic on plastic grinding noise, bouncing needle. Replaced speedo cable, then cluster and issue came back. Bounced the needle so much it broke off. Only seems to happen when cold and wet for me. Scares the living sh1t out of my dog every time. Keep us posted.

With the cold/wet correlation I'm thinking there is some sort of lubricant in there that has gotten dirty... and cold weather makes it much more viscous and creates the issue. And yeah, my needle bounces around a lot when it acts up.

 

[Will Van]

Love your build.

Same here on the speedometer. Plastic on plastic grinding noise, bouncing needle. Replaced speedo cable, then cluster and issue came back. Bounced the needle so much it broke off. Only seems to happen when cold and wet for me. Scares the living sh1t out of my dog every time. Keep us posted.

With the cold/wet correlation I'm thinking there is some sort of lubricant in there that has gotten dirty... and cold weather makes it much more viscous and creates the issue. And yeah, my needle bounces around a lot when it acts up.

Maybe I should start here?

Speedometer noise SOLVED - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/speedometer-noise-solved.1064984/

FJ62 Speedometer Noise - Disassemble, Clean , Swap WITH PHOTOS - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj62-speedometer-noise-disassemble-clean-swap-with-photos.1069248/

 

[Honger]

Maybe I should start here?

Speedometer noise SOLVED - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/speedometer-noise-solved.1064984/

FJ62 Speedometer Noise - Disassemble, Clean , Swap WITH PHOTOS - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj62-speedometer-noise-disassemble-clean-swap-with-photos.1069248/

From that second link I'm betting we have the same issue with our "speed cup"; the magnetic hub that translate our speedo cable movement into movement on the speedo needle. Not promising...

Amayama has a new speedometer for my cluster... a bit over $250. Hmmm...

 

[Will Van]

From that second link I'm betting we have the same issue with our "speed cup"; the magnetic hub that translate our speedo cable movement into movement on the speedo needle. Not promising...

Amayama has a new speedometer for my cluster... a bit over $250. Hmmm...

Do you have the part number for the speedo on Amayama?

 

[Honger]

Do you have the part number for the speedo on Amayama?

8311060730

Do we have the same speedo? If you're going to order one maybe we both should and save on the shipping from Japan...

 

[Will Van]

Huge thanks to member @2fpower. My OEM trans/t-case shield was missing from my truck. He had a spare and sent it to me for free!

It fits perfectly, but I need to figure out how to get this broken M8 bolt out so I can mount it.

 

[davegonz]

Weld a smaller bolt on what's left (if there's room) and unscrew it.

 

[2fpower]

Weld a smaller bolt on what's left (if there's room) and unscrew it.

I agree with what he said, but I think he meant weld a Nut on it....

Someone did not do you any favors with that off center drilled hole. Big chance of welding what is left to the side.....

Maybe get some round stock and push in that hole first... Then try to weld the nut on there. I typically use a nut a little smaller than the bolt.

 

[davegonz]

Depends on how much room you have to work with. I suggested a bolt since the sheared bolt piece is sub flush

Like this example from the interwebz:

 

[Broski]

I'm with 2fpower welding a not on there. with a nut you can rosette weld the center of the nut.

With a bolt in the application I see to much of a chance of welding it to the frame. JMHO

 

[Will Van]

What if I don’t know how to weld?

 

[BreckenridgeCruiser]

You can try drilling that hole a little more, being VERY careful to not get into the threads in the frame. You are trying to weaken the sidewalk of the bolt.

Another option is to punch a starter as centered as you can and drill a new hole. You will need to be very careful as it will want to catch on the edge of the existing hole. If you can get a more centered hole, you can try an easy-out/extractor. I find that pb blasting helps before you drill as the heat can sometimes help break up the stuck threads.

And I am assuming that you are not like cky enough to have a cutout on the inside of the frame where you could reach in with some vise grips (needle nose). If you can, you can actually turn it to goo deeper and come out the backside of the hole.

 

[renago]

I would give on the hole solution , simply for 2 reasons .
If a head of factory 8 ma screw was sheared off you have fewer chances to get out the sized screw with a smaller welded head .
The hole solution ,if possible , is much safer as you weaken the screw sides ,ad you can use a estratter or keep drilling till the screw sides are really thin .
Just my 2 cents

 

[Broski]

Part of what the welding does is heat it up to help break it lose. but if you don't weld then that not going to help.

The only other way I see like others have said is drill. I'm thinking a series of small holes around the edge of the bolt tell you can get it out and plan on drilling a overs sized hole and tap to the next size bolt