Builds 1991 FJ75 moving to America (2 Viewers)

[orikawa]

I thought it was immediately to the left of the silencer foam too, then saw the area @WarDamnEagle circled and now I'm unsure I don't have a better photo showing it more clearly, but in the interest of uncovering this exciting door detail, I can dig one out and pop the panel off. Any other details you might be intersted in while I'm in there?

If you had @orikawa over does that mean he's going to make panels for Troopies, and offer really cool access for the rear panels like he has for 60's? Man he makes neat stuff.

I thought it was immediately to the left of the silencer foam too, then saw the area @WarDamnEagle circled and now I'm unsure I don't have a better photo showing it more clearly, but in the interest of uncovering this exciting door detail, I can dig one out and pop the panel off. Any other details you might be intersted in while I'm in there?

If you had @orikawa over does that mean he's going to make panels for Troopies, and offer really cool access for the rear panels like he has for 60's? Man he makes neat stuff.

Hahaha mayyyyyyybe. Sounds like I need to paint Joel's door panels this weekend huh?

 

[Honger]

I thought it was immediately to the left of the silencer foam too, then saw the area @WarDamnEagle circled and now I'm unsure I don't have a better photo showing it more clearly, but in the interest of uncovering this exciting door detail, I can dig one out and pop the panel off. Any other details you might be intersted in while I'm in there?

If you had @orikawa over does that mean he's going to make panels for Troopies, and offer really cool access for the rear panels like he has for 60's? Man he makes neat stuff.

Honestly I think that's my main question now... my doors were missing the silencer and the plastic barrier so I had no reference. Everything else I took copious photos of my doors before teardown.

And I guess my namedrop of @orikawa wasn't very subtle...

 

[svsisu]

Pulled the panel off the passenger/RH door (previous photo was driver/LH door) and the the hole for the rod is just to right of the silencer, almost in line with the square hole in the door.

The rods on these doors have a pretty drastic bend. Even without the silencer foam it doesn't look possible for it to rub on the door skin.

 

[Honger]

Pulled the panel off the passenger/RH door (previous photo was driver/LH door) and the the hole for the rod is just to right of the silencer, almost in line with the square hole in the door.
View attachment 3570870

View attachment 3570871

The rods on these doors have a pretty drastic bend. Even without the silencer foam it doesn't look possible for it to rub on the door skin.

View attachment 3570873

Massively helpful, thanks!

My rods had definitely been bent at some point. I used some pliers and made delicate adjustments so that they sit very similar to what you show there.

My only conundrum now is whether or not to put new plastic barriers on. Presumably these are to protect the fiber-board door cards from moisture... a concern I won't have. But I'm thinking they'll also help with dust abatement inside the cabin. Any thoughts yay/nay?

 

[AirheadNut]

I would definitely install new plastic, it makes a big difference in the amount of dust that gets inside the cabin.

 

[svsisu]

I would definitely install new plastic, it makes a big difference in the amount of dust that gets inside the cabin.

Agreed

 

[svsisu]

Since you are in deep with door parts, any chance you ordered new "dust covers"/rubber boots for the door checks? I'm having trouble finding the PN for this

 

[LDRF]

Well... I find there are about 5 stages to parts shopping for a project like this.

1. Research the parts needed on the EPC and assemble a detailed list by part type, quantity, and part number.
2. Go look at your truck, determine there are a few more parts missing that you didn't see just from the EPC, so you go back and revise your list.
   
   (It's at this point you feel cocky... you start thinking to yourself "Dang, I'm a freakin' parts wizard right up there with @OGBeno !")
   
   
3. You order your parts from your chosen vendor. You're now getting pretty giddy about the upcoming project and all the fresh new parts bags you're gonna get to open.
4. You post up some pics on MUD and someone makes note of a part they don't see... and you realize you don't have that part... but it's clear now you need it. This stage can also be accompanied by a wisecrack about how one of your parts is wrong... and they're right. (in my case it was @orikawa dropping by to take a look at my Troopy doors and take measurements... and he noted how I was missing the outer window felt/seals!... which led me into Step 5)
5. Dejected you now scramble for that final rush order of parts to finish your job. This can often become a scramble for multiple final rush orders of parts.

Job done!

I’ve had my Cruiser for 18 months and I’m already on iteration 3 of step 5!!!

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Massively helpful, thanks!

My rods had definitely been bent at some point. I used some pliers and made delicate adjustments so that they sit very similar to what you show there.

My only conundrum now is whether or not to put new plastic barriers on. Presumably these are to protect the fiber-board door cards from moisture... a concern I won't have. But I'm thinking they'll also help with dust abatement inside the cabin. Any thoughts yay/nay?

What are they? $8 each? Why wouldn’t you?

Also, you were very concerned about where Toyota put the foam dampeners; how could you go less than OEM?

 

[Honger]

Since you are in deep with door parts, any chance you ordered new "dust covers"/rubber boots for the door checks? I'm having trouble finding the PN for this

View attachment 3571044

Part number is 68621-90K00… as far as I can tell it’s NLA.

 

[JuanJ]

Massively helpful, thanks!

My rods had definitely been bent at some point. I used some pliers and made delicate adjustments so that they sit very similar to what you show there.

My only conundrum now is whether or not to put new plastic barriers on. Presumably these are to protect the fiber-board door cards from moisture... a concern I won't have. But I'm thinking they'll also help with dust abatement inside the cabin. Any thoughts yay/nay?

Hello,

I am late to the party.

I cleaned the doors on my truck a while ago. I have a picture of the rear doors but, alas, nothing of the front doors.

I remember that the silencer goes above the plastic, as it has been mentioned above. And yes, your rods are bent.

It is better to keep the plastic barriers. A lot of dust can enter the inside through the doors. Make sure you install them using a good two-sided adhesive tape.

This is how dust builds up on the doors. It is a rear door, but you can get an idea.

Juan

 

[svsisu]

Part number is 68621-90K00… as far as I can tell it’s NLA.

Thanks for checking, bummer it might me NLA. Time for some searching

 

[Honger]

Thanks for checking, bummer it might me NLA. Time for some searching

I've spent a bit of time trying to find it's modern replacement... haven't yet. Please share if you unearth something...

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Part number is 68621-90K00… as far as I can tell it’s NLA.
View attachment 3571219

My FZJ75 doesn't have those. I double checked the parts diagram against the VIN and confirmed it didn't come with them.

68621	SEAL, DOOR CHECK
	Not applicable

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Here are your bent rods:

Edit: These are for my pickup. I assume your Troopy is the same but you should make sure.

69711-90K00 Genuine Toyota Link, Front Door Lock R

ToyotaPartsDeal.com offers the great deal for genuine Toyota parts 69711-90K00 (6971190K00) Link, Front Door Lock R for $9.13. All parts are backed by the Toyota's warranty.

www.toyotapartsdeal.com

69712-90K00 Genuine Toyota Link, Front Door Lock R

ToyotaPartsDeal.com offers the great deal for genuine Toyota parts 69712-90K00 (6971290K00) Link, Front Door Lock R. All parts are backed by the Toyota's warranty.

www.toyotapartsdeal.com

 

[Honger]

Getting the window back into its track along with the new rubber run was quite a feat... took me awhile to sort out a clean method. This may be old news to others... but here's what I figured out.

First, get the rubber in place and aligned as needed (I measured where it was before removing the old one; in retrospect, due to the nature of the mechanism, high precision wasn't needed here).

Wet down the rubber run on the outside with some mildly dish soapy water.

Line up one end.

Using a rubber mallet wack it into place... pounding up and down the edge to move it into place somewhat uniformly.

Job done. Second one went very quickly.

 

[Honger]

Then it was time to put everything back together...

Lots of new parts. The new window regulator was a welcome change. My old passenger side one was VERY stiff.

Interesting aspect to the new window seal... the really long one that goes down into the door on both sides and lines the window frame... it's longer than needed in the front. There's a secondary run and guideway that's installed at the front. I reckon this piece has applicability to a variety of 70-series models. After checking everything twice I cut this run to end right at the beginning of the secondary run. You can see what I mean below.

New inner and outer window channel seals.

And course new guide clips. I love these little parts... so the if wind suction is pulling your window out a bit while rolling up it guides the window into the run. My car only had one when I bought it... now it has both.

New door check.

And first door reglazed.

 

[Honger]

On to the driver's side door. A bit more to be done on this side.

First, gut all the old seals/weatherstripping.

And in this case, remove the whole door after stripping it down. I have to admit I took the truck for a drive with no door before moving on from this point. So much fun.

I had one very badly wallowed out hinge and another less so... but it resulted in an odd clunk when opening the door as well as fluttering of the door at high speeds in windy conditions. Here's the worst one.

So new hinges and hardware were in order.

And you'll really need some 12mm moon wrenches to make this job work. This is quite a back-and-forth nitpick job. If you want some full pointers on re-aligning the door with new hinges, reach out to me.

After re-attaching the door I put painted Master Series down in the bottom seam without plugging the drain spots. I also applied damplifier sheets and then painted with Spectrum. Here's the damplifier.

Front run inside of the door ready to go back in before the window.

And here's the excess window channel material that gets cut away because of that run inside the door.

New latch/lock mechanism... new door grip and hardware... new strikers.

There's a lot that went into this. I haven't covered every step or every part. If you have a question or need a part number let me know.

 

[prwillard2]

On to the driver's side door. A bit more to be done on this side.

First, gut all the old seals/weatherstripping.

And in this case, remove the whole door after stripping it down. I have to admit I took the truck for a drive with no door before moving on from this point. So much fun.

I had one very badly wallowed out hinge and another less so... but it resulted in an odd clunk when opening the door as well as fluttering of the door at high speeds in windy conditions. Here's the worst one.

So new hinges and hardware were in order.

And you'll really need some 12mm moon wrenches to make this job work. This is quite a back-and-forth nitpick job. If you want some full pointers on re-aligning the door with new hinges, reach out to me.

After re-attaching the door I put painted Master Series down in the bottom seam without plugging the drain spots. I also applied damplifier sheets and then painted with Spectrum. Here's the damplifier.

Front run inside of the door ready to go back in before the window.

And here's the excess window channel material that gets cut away because of that run inside the door.

New latch/lock mechanism... new door grip and hardware... new strikers.

There's a lot that went into this. I haven't covered every step or every part. If you have a question or need a part number let me know.

How much to have you come to Cali and do my doors?!

Great work here Joel.

 

[Honger]

How much to have you come to Cali and do my doors?!

Great work here Joel.

Get it to me... happy to help!

The soundproofing in the doors is amazing. It's completely changed the feel of the front cabin. Unbelievable.