1984 BJ42 Story and Modifications - 3B to 15BFT (1 Viewer)
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- Thread starter
- #22
A side by side comparison of the 3B and the 15BFT:
Just as a reminder I guess:
The 3B is a 3.4L naturally aspirated 4-cylinder indirect injected diesel engine. 3B has 2 valves per cylinder.
The 15BFT is a 4.1L factory turbo 4-cylinder direct injected diesel engine (also intercooled on the turbo versions). The 15BFT has 4 valves per cylinder.
Just as a reminder I guess:
The 3B is a 3.4L naturally aspirated 4-cylinder indirect injected diesel engine. 3B has 2 valves per cylinder.
The 15BFT is a 4.1L factory turbo 4-cylinder direct injected diesel engine (also intercooled on the turbo versions). The 15BFT has 4 valves per cylinder.
You guys don’t mess around! How much weight does that add to the front?
In for the stopping and going configuration - the change from glow plugs to glow screen, and the fuel shut off change from EDIC to vacuum and flapper. This is what I need to do with my BJ70 3B to 13B-T swap.
- Thread starter
- #25
To be honest, no idea. We didn't weigh the engine before putting it in.
I would imagine the glow plugs to glow screen should be fairly plug and play. The glow system should have a fairly hefty relay. I am planning to use the EDIC circuit to energize the VSV valve to shut down the engine. (I haven't gotten that far yet and it might not be as simple as I think haha)
- Thread starter
- #26
OK, more of the details.
There are multiple flavors of bellhousing options for the 15BFT configuration. But, as far as direct drop-in to where a 3B used to live, we only have two (2) options.
1. The cast steel bellhousing found in most pre-1985 Land Cruisers (and some early 1985 ones)
2. The aluminum bellhousing found in post 1985 Land Cruisers (namely the 60 and 70 series)
Some of the experts might correct me if I am wrong, but, when Toyota changed the bellhousing from cast steel to aluminum it was namely to get better driveline angles from the driveshaft and Toyota clocked the aluminum bellhousing 7-degrees to drop the output flanges down. This is reflected in a totally different rubber mount on the transmission crossmember, a different engine plate and starter, and (other than the material) a completely different looking bellhousing. The cast steel bellhousing has all the reinforcement ribs inside of the flywheel area, where the aluminum bellhousing has all the reinforcement ribs on the outside of the bellhousing.
Since my BJ42 came already with an H55, and a cast steel bellhousing, I didn't want to modify the transmission crossmember to accommodate the 7-degree clocking option (I might end up doing this later if its needed). Having a cast bellhousing with the internal ribbing carries some limitations.
The write up that Strandens Garage did, shows him clearancing the internal ribs of a cast steel bellhousing to fit a 275-mm flywheel and clutch assembly (as shown on the link below).
15B-F engine in a Land Cruiser BJ42 - https://strandensgarage.wordpress.com/2011/12/18/15b-f-engine-in-a-land-cruiser-bj42/
Roma @roma042987 found that you could use a 3B-II flywheel and clutch assembly without clearancing the bellhousing, so I went with this option. The 3B-II flywheel is around 262-mm and I hope the clutch will not slip under power in 4th or 5th gear. If this happens, then I might upgrade to the aluminum bellhousing and a 275-mm clutch or clearancing the cast steel bellhousing like on the link above.... only time will tell.
I did send some parts to get Vapor Honed at my friend Alvaro's @aljollano shop.
A shameless plug for Alvaro. He owns a Land Cruiser shop in Austin (AJ Yotas) and I cannot recommend him enough. He is a great guy, very methodical, and a perfectionist of sorts (great quality to work on your projects). If you are in the area and need Land Cruiser repair or Vapor Hone some parts, give him a shout.
My name is Alberto and I approve this message
There are multiple flavors of bellhousing options for the 15BFT configuration. But, as far as direct drop-in to where a 3B used to live, we only have two (2) options.
1. The cast steel bellhousing found in most pre-1985 Land Cruisers (and some early 1985 ones)
2. The aluminum bellhousing found in post 1985 Land Cruisers (namely the 60 and 70 series)
Some of the experts might correct me if I am wrong, but, when Toyota changed the bellhousing from cast steel to aluminum it was namely to get better driveline angles from the driveshaft and Toyota clocked the aluminum bellhousing 7-degrees to drop the output flanges down. This is reflected in a totally different rubber mount on the transmission crossmember, a different engine plate and starter, and (other than the material) a completely different looking bellhousing. The cast steel bellhousing has all the reinforcement ribs inside of the flywheel area, where the aluminum bellhousing has all the reinforcement ribs on the outside of the bellhousing.
Since my BJ42 came already with an H55, and a cast steel bellhousing, I didn't want to modify the transmission crossmember to accommodate the 7-degree clocking option (I might end up doing this later if its needed). Having a cast bellhousing with the internal ribbing carries some limitations.
The write up that Strandens Garage did, shows him clearancing the internal ribs of a cast steel bellhousing to fit a 275-mm flywheel and clutch assembly (as shown on the link below).
15B-F engine in a Land Cruiser BJ42 - https://strandensgarage.wordpress.com/2011/12/18/15b-f-engine-in-a-land-cruiser-bj42/
Roma @roma042987 found that you could use a 3B-II flywheel and clutch assembly without clearancing the bellhousing, so I went with this option. The 3B-II flywheel is around 262-mm and I hope the clutch will not slip under power in 4th or 5th gear. If this happens, then I might upgrade to the aluminum bellhousing and a 275-mm clutch or clearancing the cast steel bellhousing like on the link above.... only time will tell.
I did send some parts to get Vapor Honed at my friend Alvaro's @aljollano shop.
A shameless plug for Alvaro. He owns a Land Cruiser shop in Austin (AJ Yotas) and I cannot recommend him enough. He is a great guy, very methodical, and a perfectionist of sorts (great quality to work on your projects). If you are in the area and need Land Cruiser repair or Vapor Hone some parts, give him a shout.
My name is Alberto and I approve this message
- Thread starter
- #27
We pressure washed and degreased the engine bay before dropping the engine:
My 15BFT didn't have an oil pressure sending unit (just had an oil pressure switch), so I grabbed the old one from the 3B, and also steal the temperature sensor and the glow controller switch from the 3B thermostat housing and moved it into the 15BFT thermostat housing.
And finally installed the 3B-II flywheel, new pilot bearing, clutch assembly, and a new throw-out bearing on the hub. You need to retain the 3B engine plate (installed before the flywheel goes in) and 3B starter to complete this conversion.
Finally, you also need to retain the engine block mount brackets from the 3B and move them into the 15BFT (see them removed on photo above) for everything to line up correctly.
My 15BFT didn't have an oil pressure sending unit (just had an oil pressure switch), so I grabbed the old one from the 3B, and also steal the temperature sensor and the glow controller switch from the 3B thermostat housing and moved it into the 15BFT thermostat housing.
And finally installed the 3B-II flywheel, new pilot bearing, clutch assembly, and a new throw-out bearing on the hub. You need to retain the 3B engine plate (installed before the flywheel goes in) and 3B starter to complete this conversion.
Finally, you also need to retain the engine block mount brackets from the 3B and move them into the 15BFT (see them removed on photo above) for everything to line up correctly.
- Thread starter
- #28
And here we go:
Nate giving a final inspection and PAWS up before we start working on getting the engine in @bottombracket
And then wrestling this chunk of metal in.
Nate giving a final inspection and PAWS up before we start working on getting the engine in @bottombracket
And then wrestling this chunk of metal in.
- Thread starter
- #30
A little aside to the whole engine work...
I have always loved Full Floating rear ends.
This truck will only have 33" tires, but, I want to make it as capable as possible. I will also be installing the 4:1 gearset on the Tcase that my brother Chris Delancy (R.I.P) gave me for the project.
The 4:1 gearset has a 10% underdrive on high range. So, to compensate for that, I decided to install a 3.73:1 ring and pinion on the axles. I started my quest looking for locking differentials and 3.73:1 gears for my 9.5" 3rd members.
My friend Eric in Cleveland, OH had a super nice FJ62 with a rear FF axle, and his axle had an ARB in it with 3.73 gears already setup. Furthermore, he had a brand new ARB (though old model) still in the box. We talked, and I ended up buying the two lockers, the rear FF (for a 60-series) including the 3rd member that was set up already.
Talking to Galen @bottombracket he mentioned that he had a late 40-series Full Floating rear axle that he was no longer needing. So I bought that, also. My good friend Alvaro (@aljollano) did me a solid and took Galen's FF axle and got it sandblasted for me (Thank you, Alvaro!!!!!!)
Later on, I sent the new (old type) ARB to Georg @orangefj45 and he did his magic to set-up the new locker with 3.73:1 gears. The plan is to install the new 3rd member from Georg in the rear FF and install the 3rd that came from the 60-series FF in the front of the BJ42.
The 40-series FF didn't have the parking brake backing plates though it was a late style FF. My BJ42 has the parking brake in the rear drums so I needed to find these. Roma @roma042987 helped me getting a set of these with a lot of the hardware I needed (so I didn't have to open and steal parts from the current semi-floating set-up). Thanks, Roma!!!
I went to Alvaro's shop, took the 40-series FF apart, painted it, serviced all the bearings and assembled it to bring it back to the 40.
It takes a village to get these projects done.
This whole build is dedicated to Chris Delancy @Delancy
I have always loved Full Floating rear ends.
This truck will only have 33" tires, but, I want to make it as capable as possible. I will also be installing the 4:1 gearset on the Tcase that my brother Chris Delancy (R.I.P) gave me for the project.
The 4:1 gearset has a 10% underdrive on high range. So, to compensate for that, I decided to install a 3.73:1 ring and pinion on the axles. I started my quest looking for locking differentials and 3.73:1 gears for my 9.5" 3rd members.
My friend Eric in Cleveland, OH had a super nice FJ62 with a rear FF axle, and his axle had an ARB in it with 3.73 gears already setup. Furthermore, he had a brand new ARB (though old model) still in the box. We talked, and I ended up buying the two lockers, the rear FF (for a 60-series) including the 3rd member that was set up already.
Talking to Galen @bottombracket he mentioned that he had a late 40-series Full Floating rear axle that he was no longer needing. So I bought that, also. My good friend Alvaro (@aljollano) did me a solid and took Galen's FF axle and got it sandblasted for me (Thank you, Alvaro!!!!!!)
Later on, I sent the new (old type) ARB to Georg @orangefj45 and he did his magic to set-up the new locker with 3.73:1 gears. The plan is to install the new 3rd member from Georg in the rear FF and install the 3rd that came from the 60-series FF in the front of the BJ42.
The 40-series FF didn't have the parking brake backing plates though it was a late style FF. My BJ42 has the parking brake in the rear drums so I needed to find these. Roma @roma042987 helped me getting a set of these with a lot of the hardware I needed (so I didn't have to open and steal parts from the current semi-floating set-up). Thanks, Roma!!!
I went to Alvaro's shop, took the 40-series FF apart, painted it, serviced all the bearings and assembled it to bring it back to the 40.
It takes a village to get these projects done.
This whole build is dedicated to Chris Delancy @Delancy
- Thread starter
- #32
Let's just hope we make him proud!
bottombracket
SILVER Star
1. It’s an honor to be part - a VERY small part of this project. One of the very first threads I ever found on MUD was a BJ70 build by some guy named @AlbertoSD… And here we are a decade later!
2. Nate only likes to stand sit or sleep underneath 1000 pounds of engine that would squish him like a turd if it fell on him.
3. #BILLSPEC
2. Nate only likes to stand sit or sleep underneath 1000 pounds of engine that would squish him like a turd if it fell on him.
3. #BILLSPEC
- Thread starter
- #35
I was lucky to be in the right place at the right time when Roma @roma042987 and Bill @bkcruiser went to visit Galen @bottombracket. We had a great time talking Land Cruisers and brainstorming some ideas on how to make these builds a little better. Great group of people and I am lucky to know them.
Roma is also in the middle of a 15BF swap on one of his 40's so we have been sharing learned experiences to make this better. Roma is way ahead of me, so it is me mostly stealing his great ideas and including them onto my project. Below is Roma's build, just in case you are not following him already:
Builds - Roma's 78 fj40 gets a refurb - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/romas-78-fj40-gets-a-refurb.609560/page-38#post-15232515
Bill @bkcruiser has been doing a lot of work on my BJ42. More of that to come...
Roma is also in the middle of a 15BF swap on one of his 40's so we have been sharing learned experiences to make this better. Roma is way ahead of me, so it is me mostly stealing his great ideas and including them onto my project. Below is Roma's build, just in case you are not following him already:
Builds - Roma's 78 fj40 gets a refurb - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/romas-78-fj40-gets-a-refurb.609560/page-38#post-15232515
Bill @bkcruiser has been doing a lot of work on my BJ42. More of that to come...
- Thread starter
- #36
Now with the engine in place, there is a long list of things to do to make this run and drive.
Will make a small list here and tackle the items as they come, in no particular order since they all need done. Some of them are more time consuming than others.
1. Power Steering - Hydraulic.
This BJ42 came with a factory/dealer installed option electric power steering. When I drove the truck after picking it up at the port, you could definitely feel the assist. I really liked the option. The 15BFT engine comes with an integrated, crank-driven power steering hydraulic pump. Rather than keeping the electric power steering and then having to fabricate a block plate to remove the engine driven pump, I decided to do a 60-series power steering conversion on the 42. This will involve placing the 60-series power steering box on the frame, welding reinforcement plate and sleeves for it, making a steering column from the factory steering column to the 60-series box, and making hydraulic lines to make all work.
2. Intercooler
The 3B that we pulled out was non-turbo and non-intercooled. The 15BFT is both, factory turbo and came intercooled. I will definitely want to add an intercooler to this truck. Getting the intercooler lines, the intercooler mounted, and everything plumbed will be a challenge in such tight space.
3. Fuel Return Line
The 3B engine with the inline pump does not have fuel return line to the fuel tank. I think those 3B's with rotary pumps DO have a return line, but mine didn't. I will have to make one to return fuel to the tank.
4. Throttle Cable Connection
The 15BFT out of the Coaster trucks, came with an inline pump. The engine had a throttle mechanism on top of the heater grid/intake manifold that had an arm going down to the injection pump. Sadly, this whole mechanism hit the brake booster when we were installing the engine, so I had to remove that and now will need to figure out how to actuate the throttle once again.
5. Air Cleaner
The factory air cleaner "seem" to fit, but will need to re-work it to line up with the turbo inlet. I have the option of using a G-wagon air cleaner, also, so we will see which one fits better there.
6. Radiator Lines
The upper radiator line should be fairly straight forward, the lower one will be very different than the one from the 3B as the 15BFT has a vacuum pump and power steering pump on the lower left corner of the engine. This will need to get done, also.
Will make a small list here and tackle the items as they come, in no particular order since they all need done. Some of them are more time consuming than others.
1. Power Steering - Hydraulic.
This BJ42 came with a factory/dealer installed option electric power steering. When I drove the truck after picking it up at the port, you could definitely feel the assist. I really liked the option. The 15BFT engine comes with an integrated, crank-driven power steering hydraulic pump. Rather than keeping the electric power steering and then having to fabricate a block plate to remove the engine driven pump, I decided to do a 60-series power steering conversion on the 42. This will involve placing the 60-series power steering box on the frame, welding reinforcement plate and sleeves for it, making a steering column from the factory steering column to the 60-series box, and making hydraulic lines to make all work.
2. Intercooler
The 3B that we pulled out was non-turbo and non-intercooled. The 15BFT is both, factory turbo and came intercooled. I will definitely want to add an intercooler to this truck. Getting the intercooler lines, the intercooler mounted, and everything plumbed will be a challenge in such tight space.
3. Fuel Return Line
The 3B engine with the inline pump does not have fuel return line to the fuel tank. I think those 3B's with rotary pumps DO have a return line, but mine didn't. I will have to make one to return fuel to the tank.
4. Throttle Cable Connection
The 15BFT out of the Coaster trucks, came with an inline pump. The engine had a throttle mechanism on top of the heater grid/intake manifold that had an arm going down to the injection pump. Sadly, this whole mechanism hit the brake booster when we were installing the engine, so I had to remove that and now will need to figure out how to actuate the throttle once again.
5. Air Cleaner
The factory air cleaner "seem" to fit, but will need to re-work it to line up with the turbo inlet. I have the option of using a G-wagon air cleaner, also, so we will see which one fits better there.
6. Radiator Lines
The upper radiator line should be fairly straight forward, the lower one will be very different than the one from the 3B as the 15BFT has a vacuum pump and power steering pump on the lower left corner of the engine. This will need to get done, also.
- Thread starter
- #38
First off, the power steering system. As mentioned above, this BJ42 came with a factory/dealer installed option electric power steering. The 15BFT engine comes with an integrated, crank-driven power steering hydraulic pump. Rather than keeping the electric power steering and then having to fabricate a block plate to remove the engine driven pump, I decided to do a 60-series power steering conversion on the 42.
I contacted JimC @FJ40Jim and asked if he had a steering box that I could use for this project. He had a late 60-series box (with the non-rectangular bolt pattern) that he could rebuild for me. Jim rebuilt the box and sent it directly to Galen's so we could start the installation part.
We drilled the frame and Bill @bkcruiser fabricated an internal support plate. Georg @orangefj45 had sent us some DOM tubing to use as sleeves for the bolts so we wouldn't crush the frame when tightening the steering box. All the fabrication credits here go to Bill. I was just a spectator with bad ideas
We notched the factory shock tower like most people do, and then when mocking the whole assembly, the set bolt between the steering column and the power steering box was hitting the shock tower pretty bad. I got a little frustrated with everything and off came both factory shock towers in favor of the common Ford shock tower modification. Later on, talking to Roma @roma042987 about this interference, he mentioned that I just needed a different set-bolt. In hindsight, I would have retained the factory shock towers....but, onwards and forward.
Bill mounted the steering box on the frame and welded everything together:
Bill also had to work around the pillow block support for the PTO shaft. Space is very limited there, but Bill was able to make everything work. The 4-bolts supporting the steering box are just temporary. The correct bolts are on order, but not here yet.
Bill also fabricated the intermediate steering shaft with existing parts we had plus some extras that Georg had sent for this purpose. Thank you, Georg!!!!
I contacted JimC @FJ40Jim and asked if he had a steering box that I could use for this project. He had a late 60-series box (with the non-rectangular bolt pattern) that he could rebuild for me. Jim rebuilt the box and sent it directly to Galen's so we could start the installation part.
We drilled the frame and Bill @bkcruiser fabricated an internal support plate. Georg @orangefj45 had sent us some DOM tubing to use as sleeves for the bolts so we wouldn't crush the frame when tightening the steering box. All the fabrication credits here go to Bill. I was just a spectator with bad ideas
We notched the factory shock tower like most people do, and then when mocking the whole assembly, the set bolt between the steering column and the power steering box was hitting the shock tower pretty bad. I got a little frustrated with everything and off came both factory shock towers in favor of the common Ford shock tower modification. Later on, talking to Roma @roma042987 about this interference, he mentioned that I just needed a different set-bolt
. In hindsight, I would have retained the factory shock towers....but, onwards and forward.Bill mounted the steering box on the frame and welded everything together:
Bill also had to work around the pillow block support for the PTO shaft. Space is very limited there, but Bill was able to make everything work. The 4-bolts supporting the steering box are just temporary. The correct bolts are on order, but not here yet.
Bill also fabricated the intermediate steering shaft with existing parts we had plus some extras that Georg had sent for this purpose. Thank you, Georg!!!!
Bill is ****ing MacGyver. He can make anything fit together.
That said, the hardware for the steering gear box to frame is NOT OEM, Alberto. Chop, chop.
That said, the hardware for the steering gear box to frame is NOT OEM, Alberto. Chop, chop.
- Thread starter
- #40
Bill @bkcruiser is like McGyver for sure, but perhaps more badass since he is a real-life action figureBill is f***ing MacGyver. He can make anything fit together.
That said, the hardware for the steering gear box to frame is NOT OEM, Alberto. Chop, chop.
Good eye on the hardware, Onur!!!
And yes. We ordered the correct hardware from Toyota but they didn't have any in stock. We bought those temporary ones at Home Depot just to mock everything up. Two of the correct bolts from Toyota came in, still waiting on the other two
