Builds 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter dmaddox
- Start date
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I would use Raptor by UPol on the underside and floors. Buy it clear and tint it you will get the best results and it is UV stable and easy to patch / keep looking good. It is also pretty cheap and gets good coverage and lasts well.
Just throwing this in...
I do not consider "rubberized" under coating to be good as a rustproofing agent. It tends to dry out and get brittle and develop small cracks that trap moisture underneath. It makes a decent soundproofing and can protect from smaller road debris damage (gravel, etc.) but it should be top-coated with a heavy self-sealing wax film. I learned this from a guy that specialized in undercoating vehicles. He did the underside of an old Chevy truck of mine 30 years ago. Though I've got rust spots evrywhere on the body, there's none underneath despite decades in the pacific northwest and rocky mountains. The wax layer is a good 1/8" thick and came out of 55 gallon drums. I think it was originally intended for the aircraft industry. The closest product I can think of is the stuff sold by Eastwood.
www.eastwood.com
Also, a vintage vehicle restorer I knew in Montana swore by spray on waxes/petroleum products to battle the road salt and de-icers applied to the roads in winter. If I had unlimited funds I'd rhino-line the underside of my vehicles.
I also don't like 3M seam sealer. It drys out and cracks, too. I'd stick with Sikaflex or an equivalent. I think thats what all the half-tub makers advise. HTH
I do not consider "rubberized" under coating to be good as a rustproofing agent. It tends to dry out and get brittle and develop small cracks that trap moisture underneath. It makes a decent soundproofing and can protect from smaller road debris damage (gravel, etc.) but it should be top-coated with a heavy self-sealing wax film. I learned this from a guy that specialized in undercoating vehicles. He did the underside of an old Chevy truck of mine 30 years ago. Though I've got rust spots evrywhere on the body, there's none underneath despite decades in the pacific northwest and rocky mountains. The wax layer is a good 1/8" thick and came out of 55 gallon drums. I think it was originally intended for the aircraft industry. The closest product I can think of is the stuff sold by Eastwood.
Eastwood Heavy-Duty Anti-Rust in Black
Spray inside doors and rockers where painting won't be required.
Also, a vintage vehicle restorer I knew in Montana swore by spray on waxes/petroleum products to battle the road salt and de-icers applied to the roads in winter. If I had unlimited funds I'd rhino-line the underside of my vehicles.
I also don't like 3M seam sealer. It drys out and cracks, too. I'd stick with Sikaflex or an equivalent. I think thats what all the half-tub makers advise. HTH
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #204
I have a question in regards to the door hinges.
the black “gasket”, if you will, is affixed/glued to the hinge. I am wondering about how they were painted at the factory?
there are also nylon? bushings in there. This all can’t be just hosed over with base/clear, right?
im attempting to do as meticulous as within my power and funding restoration.
thanks.
the black “gasket”, if you will, is affixed/glued to the hinge. I am wondering about how they were painted at the factory?
there are also nylon? bushings in there. This all can’t be just hosed over with base/clear, right?
im attempting to do as meticulous as within my power and funding restoration.
thanks.
thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
Paint away!
Afaik they were all painted over...
Afaik they were all painted over...
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #208
meh...thanks. The removing of the paint has revealed quite a bit of rust as you can see; along with garbled up welds, cut-in steel of various thicknesses and all manner of body repairs from who knows when.
Once down to metal on the tub, I'll get it back up right and begin (again) correcting all of these issues best I can.
I will add however, that the bed is fairly beat up, but at least "good". So, I am going to clean it up best I can and leave it in.
Once down to metal on the tub, I'll get it back up right and begin (again) correcting all of these issues best I can.
I will add however, that the bed is fairly beat up, but at least "good". So, I am going to clean it up best I can and leave it in.
I would de-sticker them, lightly scuff, prime/paint/clear - nylon bushings and all.
Because you'll be tightening bolts down on them, I would not apply a ton of clear coat - plenty, but not like they are candy-coated. This way, the clear should survive the bolt tightening without wrinkling or cracking.
Because you'll be tightening bolts down on them, I would not apply a ton of clear coat - plenty, but not like they are candy-coated. This way, the clear should survive the bolt tightening without wrinkling or cracking.
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #210
I'll use my "1978th" message in ih8mud to say "thank you!"
The main reason I ask is I would rather the black rubber gasket be left raw, rather than painted over. I think it looks cleaner, but if Toyota from the factory just hosed the whole thing, that is what I'll do. I mean - the option is to meticulously tape-off the rubber portion, but it would never be perfect.
More updates to follow. I am working on just about every aspect of the cruiser at this point.
The main reason I ask is I would rather the black rubber gasket be left raw, rather than painted over. I think it looks cleaner, but if Toyota from the factory just hosed the whole thing, that is what I'll do. I mean - the option is to meticulously tape-off the rubber portion, but it would never be perfect.
More updates to follow. I am working on just about every aspect of the cruiser at this point.
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #211
Another question. The staked nuts for the rollbar were at some point stripped and drilled out. I am going to reach up under the belly of this cruiser and cut off the nuts (minds out of the gutter gents) on the underside of the rollbar mounts. Any idea the correct size/length/pitch bolts and nuts I need? I wanted to re-stake/spot weld in new nuts prior to painting obviously. 
This build is looking great! What a rabbit hole you have found. You're doing a great job mate. Greetings and well wishes from Australia.
Also, this is the same year model that my dad had when I was growing up so I have enjoyed reading along so far.
Also, this is the same year model that my dad had when I was growing up so I have enjoyed reading along so far.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
This is going to be sooo sweet!
What is the build date for this 40?
What is the build date for this 40?
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Nice!
We both have '78 40s.
Mine is a 09/77 build.
We both have '78 40s.
Mine is a 09/77 build.
djcfj40
SILVER Star
I would stay away from the rubberized undercoat. Especially if you plan on painting over top of it. The undercoating is going to haunt you. I highly recommend using u-pol raptor liner. I got the tintable stuff and used 532( mustard yellow ) basecoat to tint . I did lizard skin as a base on the underbody, then raptor liner over top and it looks very clean and super tough. The lizard skin helps with noise and heat reduction.
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #217
Good points. I think the plan (at least the one for today) is to just prep/surfacer,prime/base/clear it all. No products. Simple and clean.
This way - should rust ever (inevitably) reappear, I don't have to dig through sludge/goop/rubberized death, or the like.
This way - should rust ever (inevitably) reappear, I don't have to dig through sludge/goop/rubberized death, or the like.
I just finished reading your whole thread; great job and admirable tenacity! I too have a '78, so it was nice to see familiar parts/pieces in this thread. I like the exchange a few posts ago about year models, I've always joked that I and my FJ40 are both '78 year models, but I am a 10/78 and the 40 is a 10/77. Easy to remember, my 40 is exactly 1 year older than me. Keep up the good work!!!
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
I think this is what our mutual friend used on the Pig! I will have to go back through my thread to confirm...
