LE11 is the Trim Code
Builds 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter dmaddox
- Start date
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MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
Primer on my 79 is that beige color. It is that color all along the lip of the tub, after taking the top off.
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #185
I mean if this thing is truly a 5k mile cruiser with a documented life:
bringatrailer.com
5K-Mile 1978 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40
Bid for the chance to own a 5K-Mile 1978 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #8,954.
Some real premium metal work there. You wonder why they didn't use cardboard or aluminum window screen in that hole to support the bondo. Don't they know how it's done?
I think the color matched “SEM sauce” used by @buckroseau in his builds is the way I would go. He lives in Minnesota so that stuff must be solid.
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #191
Plan: Chem clean a prepped area, followed by 3M seam sealer in the wheel wells. Then, epoxy primer and block sand visible flat areas. Over that I will use POR15 undercoating only in the seam areas to protect/seal.
Over that, 532 yellow base coat and clear coat.
Over that, 532 yellow base coat and clear coat.
So, the whole bottom will be yellow, over the POR15 undercoat, when you're done?
This will look sharp, and frankly, it will be easy to spot fresh rust stains on yellow paint, given that somewhere, something will start to rust and bleed down the paint surface. I don't see a problem with your plan, as long as POR15 undercoating is engineered to be top coated with the paint you're using. The clear coat will make the bottom of the truck easier to keep clean, too.
This will look sharp, and frankly, it will be easy to spot fresh rust stains on yellow paint, given that somewhere, something will start to rust and bleed down the paint surface. I don't see a problem with your plan, as long as POR15 undercoating is engineered to be top coated with the paint you're using. The clear coat will make the bottom of the truck easier to keep clean, too.
My only caution is that any 1-part product (non-cured, like that aerosol) may not play well with cured paints (like your 2 part yellow). I would definitely test and let it sit a few days and see if the yellow over the POR aerosol buckles or gets weird (like remaining sticky and failing to cure).
A professional painter once told me to never use any professional grade paint products over anything that comes out of aerosol can. YMMV - just tossing this out there.
A professional painter once told me to never use any professional grade paint products over anything that comes out of aerosol can. YMMV - just tossing this out there.
whitey45
SILVER Star
Dallas, you sure went down the rabbit hole, but no doubt you will end up with a very nice and correct 40. Still amazed that the truck looked ok when bought, and how so many issues were hiding. You definitely get the award for tenacity!! Keep at it, look foward to the end result!
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #197
This is SO true. If anything, a huge lesson for me (and hopefully to others). Maybe I can post up in the "Buyers Guide" area but this FJ40 in particular was setup by someone who followed the Buyers Guide.
It reminds me of my college off-campus housing. Cinder block construction, white matte paint on the walls. A roommate (long story) accidentally discharged a 20ga. shotgun into the wall at about 15' the day before our move-out inspection. What better way to solve the several chips and holes all over the wall? The rest of our toothpaste. It was white, blended right in - and offered a nice minty fresh deodorizer.
Long story long, you can NEVER spend too much time with a magnet and a flashlight underneath a pre-sale FJ40. It can save you thousands.
May be some of the pictures are from imports with RHD? So the antenna could be on either side or the manual might be from an import too. Enjoying the quality of the build, amazing!
