Builds 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration (10 Viewers)

[dmaddox]

Update: I have been going over (still) the tub with a fine toothed comb. From front to back, I am ensuring that all of the M6x1.0 and M8x1.5 bolts are correct, I'm cleaning the threads with the appropriate taps, etc..

It amazed me at how many broken off bolts there were, followed by either nothing, or a drilled out bolt hole.

The worst of them were the rollbar mounts. Drilled out with a 3/8" drill bit, to be fitted with a new (yep) SAE bolt and nut on the bottom.

Because it would be incredibly difficult to cut off all of the drilled out M10x1.5 nuts, I re-tapped with M12x1.75. A long a tedious process.

I was able to correct all of the roll bar mounts, and I special ordered 16 M12x1.75x25mm bolts for the rollbar, taking care to track down indented head gold zinc:

I ordered another 16 in 10 rating, but they are 30mm in length, and stick down a bit far in the wheel well. Not a huge deal, but I like a tidier wheel well.

A problem some of you may face, is broken off bolt holes in the tub's side railing.

Well, I was lucky enough to have a previous owner who loved snapping bolts (and copious amounts of bondo).

Step 1: Drill two pilot/tack points:

Step 2: Drill a 1/2" access hole:

Step 3: Use a piece of baling wire, and thread a correct M8x1.5mm nut into the access hole:

Step 4: Thoroughly clean the area and tack the new nut through the two pilot holes:

 

[dmaddox]

Step 5: Fill the 1/2" hole (and I was sure to hit the back of the nut in two locations with good penetration through the access hole (minds out of the gutter gents.)) and grind smooth:

Now, back to extracting and fixing the remaining issues:

 

[SteveH]

That 'tacking in a new nut' trick is very cool - in a boxed section, no less.

Be sure to get good weld penetration on the nut, as there will be nothing more disheartening that putting that captive nut to use and hearing the welds 'snap' as you tighten it down. I guess I'd leave the drilled access hole open (Step 5) - for future servicing until you test the torque-resistance of the nut you just welded in place.

 

[dmaddox]

I guess I should have mentioned that not only did I tack in the two pilot holes but I hit it twice on the back (through the access hole). The front wheels will come off the ground before the welds snap. I'll update the above, thanks for the reminder step!

 

[numby]

I have a light blue wire that I fits but I have to pull on it to reach. Labeled Lb. other than carb fan and VSV plug I have nothing else over there, but the wire the PO sent from the coil.

View attachment 1985779

Any idea what this plug goes to? My wiring diagram doesn’t show a blue plug to anything but the wiper system.

This is coupled with the brake sending wires.

View attachment 2016853

I didn't notice any responses to your question about the single blue wire. I may have just missed them somewhere in the thread but...

That should be the wire to your Carb Cooling Fan Thermo Switch that is mounted to a little bracket under the intake manifold toward the rear a bit. It's late but I'll check tomorrow and correct if I'm wrong.

 

[dmaddox]

Thank you!! No, it was unanswered so I appreciate it! I am going to start hunting for a photo of the bracket and thermo switch.

 

[dmaddox]

I am also surprised that these jack rods are as soft as butter. This rod had a pretty bad bend in it, and I am trying to repair it best I can, but as you know these, once bent, are very difficult to straighten.

In the meantime, is this an M8x1.5? What does the set screw look like? Anyone have one? Thank you!

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Pretty impressive welding skills!

 

[numby]

Here ya go.

Kinda cramped under there. Barely got the whole bracket in the shot. I'm running a Downey header. That's the bottom of the intake on the left.

This is mounted on my '78. I think this one is off a '76 though. Seems to me my original thermo switch had the pigtail moulded into it. This one has a small threaded brass post and nut and the pigtail has a ring connector. The other end (not shown) has a matching plug to the one you asked about. Mounting brackets are the same afaik.

 

[dmaddox]

Thank you Numby! Perfect, I appreciate you going through the trouble! The downside.....more parts I need to find.

 

[numby]

A quick search of my hard drive revealed these. Pretty sure they are from other Mud threads.

FJ40 Manifold Temp Sensor 1/76-9/77 mounted to bracket. And painted over...

9/77 and later...

 

[dmaddox]

looks like possibly 89423-60020 - unavailable. I'll have to ask the classifieds for one. THANK YOU again Numby

 

[numby]

Don't fret too much on one of these if you don't live in the desert. Mine rarely works and I've never really had a drivability issue.

The whole set-up can be touchy. I've had multiple senders/switches and multiple Cooling Fan Controllers and they've all worked intermittently at best. The lack of an exhaust manifold contributes to the sporadic behavior but, really, there are just so many convoluted parameters to get these things to function correctly:

First, the switch has to be hot enough with the engine running to send a signal to the controller which usually has bad traces, blown fuse, etc...

Then you have to turn off the ignition for the controller to begin the timer...

...which sends power to the fan which always seem to find a way to not be grounded thoroughly which...

Other people have obviously had better luck with these than I have.

 

[dmaddox]

Oh I get it - great points. But, for those that know, I'm *trying* to meticulously restore this thing so that its correct!

 

[dmaddox]

I'm sure you guys know of the "domino effect" these things bring. Or for those of us that are dad's "If you give a mouse a cookie" books.

Well, when it was cold out, I decided to start restoring the jump seats, which turned into finding the correct pewter, which turned into "well, if I am going to paint pewter I might as well paint all of the pewter parts together, so they are the same/correct Toyota pewter color.

In "project pewter" as I'm now calling it, the gauge cluster face is one of those items:

• Bumpers
• Hood hooks
• Mirror arms
• Gauge cluster
• Ash tray
• Glove box door
• Center console
• Heater line kick cover
• Rear heater
• Seat backs
• Jump seats
• Ambulance door access cover
• Fuel evap cover

Some might also include the spare tire cradle and hook that mount to the rear sill, but I am seeing more body color on those than pewter. Please correct me if I am wrong.

And that means restoring the gauges, naturally. It also means finding out the rear heater top was incorrect, the center console was filled with gunk and stored soda/water/fluid and rusted enough to pit it, which meant sourcing a good one, finding that heater line kick cover as mine was missing, a full rebuild of one of the jump seats because a mount tab was broken and the PO chicken poop welded the frame, all new hood hooks (Toyota) and a laundry list of other things.

ALL JUST TO GET PEWTER parts sorted and prepped.

Luckily, Toyota still carries new hood hooks:

Sourcing Project Pewter (this is just after I have prepped and primed). Yes, the glass in the gauge cluster is taped off, and will be razor edged of any overspray.
You may also know that center consoles are two-piece, held in with four small set-screws. I took apart to spray separately.

Speedometer needle repainted. Prepping the guages:

 

[dmaddox]

Gauge needles painted:

Ugh, when I taped it off, I missed right at the base (if you look closely) I will correct that!

 

[bmoonhajjar]

Looking good.

 

[cwags12]

Wow, looking great! I think the hood hooks were kept as stainless, not painted pewter.

That's what I have in my notes from 5 yrs ago. Someone else here watching your awesome work can chime in.

 

[tlaporte]

I'm sure you guys know of the "domino effect" these things bring. Or for those of us that are dad's "If you give a mouse a cookie" books.

Great reference! We were partial to “If you give a moose a muffin” in our house.

Nice work, @dmaddox !

 

[dmaddox]

I didn’t think these hood hooks from Toyota were stainless.
I will have to research! I thought (we need an expert here) hood hooks were body color until 76 and then pewter thereafter?

I know some places sell an aftermarket stainless set, but not Toyota.

I could be mistaken.