Perhaps the check valve is bad that plugs into the booster
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Perhaps the check valve is bad that plugs into the booster
Damn, the rebuilt Centric Booster I recently put in is making a leaking sound like a balloon letting out air when the brake pedal is depressed.
Is the booster bad, or is there something that can possibly be tightened or adjusted? I'd hate to do this job all over again!
The only change done to the vehicle is that I rebuilt the carb and replaced all the vacuum lines. Did I just sealed up all the other vacuum leaks, thus exaggerating what must have been a pre-existing condition? (The booster always exhibited a slight hissing sound)
...via IH8MUD app
I'm thinking it shouldn't be doing that. Have you removed and plugged the vacuum hose to be certain it is the booster and not something else? Does it make the same sound with the engine off and you press the brake pedal?
When you press the pedal it opens a valve allowing air into one side of the booster diaphragm. The air comes in where the pedal push rod goes in. My booster has a foam plug there, I assume to keep out dust and limit air rushing noise. If the valve is partially plugged it might make that sound until the equalizes. I suspect you have a hole in the diaphragm, though. Is it still under warranty? I went though three boosters to get a good one. Two of the boosters would not return after pressing on the pedal. I had to pull the pedal back up with the top of my foot.
With the engine running, when I press down on the brake pedal, I can hear a loud "whoosh" sound from around the booster rod within the cabin. If I step on the brake pedal with the engine off, I don't hear any such sound.
Really you went through 3 boosters? What brand is it? It's a pain to take the booster out and I'd really hate to repeat this exercise. Maybe these Centric rebuilds are junk.
Parts Geek says most parts have a 1 year warranty, so I'll have to check on that.
I've seen other sources that sell rebuilt boosters for $400+ (double of what Parts Geek charges for the Centric), but from the photos those look very much like the Centric booster.
In my opinion a 60 series booster fits best in a late 70s 40. I also used a 60 master. It looks like it was made for a 40, and takes up much less space. Just need to make a tiny modification to the booster before you install it.
What is the tiny modification?
From what I can tell, it's not exactly easy to source a 60 series booster either. Where did you get yours?
Damn, the rebuilt Centric Booster I recently put in is making a leaking sound like a balloon letting out air when the brake pedal is depressed.
Is the booster bad, or is there something that can possibly be tightened or adjusted? I'd hate to do this job all over again!
The only change done to the vehicle is that I rebuilt the carb and replaced all the vacuum lines. Did I just sealed up all the other vacuum leaks, thus exaggerating what must have been a pre-existing condition? (The booster always exhibited a slight hissing sound)
...via IH8MUD app
In my opinion a 60 series booster fits best in a late 70s 40. I also used a 60 master. It looks like it was made for a 40, and takes up much less space. Just need to make a tiny modification to the booster before you install it.
Sorry one more question...I just got it off of a wrecked 60. You have to mount it upside down for the holes the line up. When you mount it upside down the little drain slot where the master bolts is now pointing up. So you have to take a cutting wheel and make a slot on the side now pointing down for fluid to leak down so it doesn't get into the booster if your master ever develops a rear seal leak.
I used the 60 master as well. I had to bend the lines a little.Sorry one more question...
With that FJ60 booster, which does not protrude out as much as the original unit, did you need to bend the brake lines going to the master cylinder?
How would you make diaphragms? I would guess that rubber durometer and thickness would have to be pretty close to original for them to work. I've got a rebuild candidate that we could take apart if you have a solid plan.