I've looked up all instructions on how to do this. I've gotten the passenger side to go in but can't get the drivers long side to go in all the way. I carefully push down against the inner axle seal to get leverage. I also wiggle the driveshaft simultaneously and have had no luck. I keep getting to the point where it's hitting something and won't go in further. It felt like this on the passenger side but eventually with some moving of the driveshaft it went in. I've tried the drivers side for hours with no luck and am at a loss. Any advice?
1974 FJ40 drivers side birfield axle won't go in all the way (1 Viewer)
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Inspect splines on inner axle. Make sure it didn't get dropped or banged up during the rebuild. Try again. Spin passenger side wheel. Try again. If that fails, pull the third member. Inspect. Maybe there is debris in the spider gear.
- Thread starter
- #5
It might be time to check spider gear then. The splines look good and I've tried turning passenger side axle. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Did you just do a knuckle rebuild?
reddingcruiser
Practicing for retirement
Is this your first time?
Do you (or a friend) have a borescope? You could see if there's a problem without taking out the third member. If it debris I think I would still pull the third to find out where it came from. If there's nothing there then maybe it's your technique.
Do you (or a friend) have a borescope? You could see if there's a problem without taking out the third member. If it debris I think I would still pull the third to find out where it came from. If there's nothing there then maybe it's your technique.
- Thread starter
- #8
Is this your first time?
Do you (or a friend) have a borescope? You could see if there's a problem without taking out the third member. If it debris I think I would still pull the third to find out where it came from. If there's nothing there then maybe it's your technique.
Yeah it is, which is why I'm definitely not ruling out the possibility that it might just be my technique. I've done the passenger side several times to get the feel but I know that the drivers side being the long side is also different technique. At this point I've tried so many time in what seems like every way possible. I don't know anyone with a boroscope unfortunately. Might be time I invest in one.
- Thread starter
- #9
Yeah, I did.
Bodean
Hot Damn
The long side can be a booger sometimes. Just be careful not to mess up the axle seal trying to put the axle back in by putting pressure on it while trying to get it to line up. I bet you just aren't holding your mouth right. LOL. Keep trying you'll get it.
- Thread starter
- #11
It seems to be a common issue as well haha. I'll keep working on that lol.
I wonder why Toyota didn't have an inspection cover on the front differential. CJ3A had almost the same configuration as the cruiser and had inspection covers front and rear. Diddo to what Bodean says, I put in my front axles after replacing the axle shaft oil seals last summer and had the same long time in getting the long shaft in, it's because you have very little leverage to get the splined end aligned and into the drive gear, it's almost impossible to not use the seal because it's the balance point...good luck...have patience...it will go.
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Just a hunch here. Try loosening the nuts on the top and bottom knuckle caps.
I was just thinking of a possible way to make this process easier. Disclaimer: I've never tried it.
I'm not real familiar with BJs but figure the front axle housing must be the same as a FJ.
Half-way between the knuckle and pumpkin on the long shaft side of the housing should be a breather.
If you have access and can take the breather out, could you insert a loop of a small flexible line, check the loop
before you insert the axle, put the axle in and use the loop as a new balance point to align the splined end to the
drive gear, once it's in pull out the loop....could it work?
I'm not real familiar with BJs but figure the front axle housing must be the same as a FJ.
Half-way between the knuckle and pumpkin on the long shaft side of the housing should be a breather.
If you have access and can take the breather out, could you insert a loop of a small flexible line, check the loop
before you insert the axle, put the axle in and use the loop as a new balance point to align the splined end to the
drive gear, once it's in pull out the loop....could it work?
reddingcruiser
Practicing for retirement
^^^ Sorta like snagging one while ice fishing.
Kinda...maybe.
I was thinking if you used small diameter grass trimmer line, it would be strong enough flexible but stiff enough to make a loop
that would follow the inside diameter of the housing....don't put a hook on the end!
bwalker16527
1974 FJ40 SBC V8 350 TH400
I had the same issue when I did my knuckle rebuild. I had to fiddle with it until I eventually got the alignment just right and it slid in. Keep trying, you get it.
After trying mine for more than 4 hours, I took the knuckle housing completely off. Used the bottom knuckle bearing hole as a way to push up on inner shaft. Slid right in. Pretty sure my way isn’tcorret, but it worked.
