Builds 1972 FJ55 - Hamilton (1 Viewer)

[samc2447]

So back at it here and there but terrible and keeping this updated. The wiper motor was pretty gummed up. Took it apart and the brushes looked okay. Cleaned everything really well and reassembled with new grease. I forgot to take pictures during assembly, but here are the before pictures. Reinstalled and it works perfectly now.

 

[samc2447]

So the bigger issue I had a few months back is that the engine wouldn't turn. I tried to start it and just got a click from the starter engaging. I put a pry bar on the crank nut and it wouldn't budge. I pulled the plugs and borescoped the cylinders thinking it might be rusted and seized. Nope, everything looked great and I could see the crosshatching on the bores.

Thinking it was maybe the rings frozen from not being rotated for so long I soaked the cylinders and let it sit for a week or two. Trying occasionally to rotate it. Still nothing. I felt like I was going to break the crank bolt. Consulting a few people we came to the conclusion that it had to be bound up somewhere. I could rotate the transfercase and transmission just fine, so made the decision to loosen the transmission from the engine and got it opened up about an inch. Still stuck. I was pretty bummed as I thought maybe the engine was bad.

I stuck my borescope into the bellhousing and still couldn't see anything binding it up.

So knowing that it needed to come out one way or another, I opted to pull it rather than drop the oil pan for further inspection.

Got it out and on the floor. Pulled the bellhousing and it was immediate what the issue was.

The flywheel was bound up into the bellhousing.

This motor is the iron block and iron head 6.0 that was only used a few years. What's notable is that the crankshaft sticks out about 0.400 inches from the other variants. This poses a problem for clearance which you see here. At this stage I don't recall if the flywheel came with the truck or I ordered it. In any case it's the wrong flywheel. The correct one is offset to account for the extra crank stick out.

 

[samc2447]

So I needed a new flywheel that was the correct back spacing. At this stage I also made the call to switch to a different bellhousing to move the clutch slave to the driver side. Advance Adapters GM NV4500 Manual Transmission 712577. I also ordered their recommended Mcleod flywheel 460537 and Luk clutch 04-049. This flywheel is specifically for the long crank LS engines. Then I needed a new clutch mount AA 715535 and Napa clutch NCF 73117.

I got everything in and fit up the flywheel and bellhousing. Everything spun just fine. Went to put the clutch on and the flywheel dowels put the clutch in the wrong spot for alignment with the bolt holes. Took the flywheel and clutch hat to my machine shop and they drilled out new dowels. Put it together and tested it with the starter and it spun freely with no contact.

 

[samc2447]

With everything operating as it should I had a 2 hour window to drop it back into place. Got her in with plenty of time to spare. The guide pins in the photos above make installing transmissions so much easier and it slid right in without any issues.

I also used the opportunity to change the water pump to the style shown below with the output straight up rather than angled forward for better hose routing to the radiator.

Put the spark plus back in it. Fixed a leaking fuel fitting and turned the key to see what would happen.

 

[samc2447]

Next steps are to tidy up some wiring and get the radiator and shroud in.

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

Congrats Steve - the engine sounds great!

 

[RUSH55]

Good to see you got that issue sorted out @samc2447 . I came across this info a couple years ago now when researching what parts to go with on the 5.3 I picked up. There’s a few instances where the factory put manual transmissions behind 6.0 engines. The flange on the 6.0 protrudes another 1/4” or so more than the 5.3, and there’s factory and parts store options for the 6.0 flywheel. Since 5.3’s never came from the factory with manual transmissions, they don’t have a factory flywheel - the flywheels available for them are all aftermarket, catering to the crowd of nut jobs that actually want manuals.

Anyways, sounds good! She’ll be driving under her own power again in no time

 

[bobm]

And there both BLUE . Made me Smile

 

[Pigeaten]

The other one looks like Pigeaten’s!

 

[RUSH55]

Oh, is that, Steve, the FJ55? Didn’t recognize him till you mentioned it

Don’t be a pain in the ass for Steve, Steve.

 

[Pigeaten]

Love the Steve

 

[samc2447]

Cleaned up the wiring and ran a few extras from the driver side to the passenger under the radiator before I installed it. I'll have a second battery at some point so included a 4 gauge wire in the harness so I don't have to run it later.

Got the cooling package all sorted out. I had put in the power steering cooler before the flywheel fiasco. The AC condenser is a tight fit, but so is everything else when you put a different engine in a truck that never came with it.

I split the radiator shroud to make future servicing easier. Going to wander the radiator hose isle at my local parts shop to find hoses that work.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Sure looks good and it can be a challenge to get things fitting right. Air intake will be a problem, can you move that Mapp? sensor from the front.

 

[PabloCruise]

Nice work! It looks like a pass side inlet radiator would help quite a bit!

 

[CenTXFJ60]

Very nice work Steve. Not sure how I missed this thread. Now subscribed.

 

[RUSH55]

Nice work on the shroud

 

[samc2447]

In hindsight I should have moved the radiator inlet to the passenger side. I did have to move the outlet over to the edge of the lower tank on the passenger side to clear the fan.
The mapp will definitely be moved. It's just on there to allow the engine to run. I have a 90 that fits, but it's too tight and almost hits the shroud. Ordered the cobra style elbow for a bit better clearance.

 

[samc2447]

A few updates. Making progress. Lots of wiring clean up so no pictures of that.

Got the cobra intake adapter. Temporarily going to run the cone filter, but I've got an airbox solution figured out that I'll get to once I get it running and other things sorted out.

Found hoses at O'Reilly for the upper and lower. Hooked up the steam port and filled the system and ran it up to temp to get the air out. No leaks.

Mostly done with the AC mock up and install. Waiting on a fitting to arrive so I can crimp the AC lines and button that up. I'll do dash trim later to fill the gaps. The priority is to get it running and systems functioning before making it pretty.

Built a seat base last night. Will mock up the seats this weekend and get those in. I've got a set of heated and cooled seats (no airbags) from a Lincoln MK something or other that I've had for a few years. I figured out the wiring back then to run the heat and cooling without the CANBUS, so hopefully I can find those notes. In any case the power tilt, etc. will be easy.

Also, got some Speedhut gauges ordered. 5-6 weeks delivery. Guess I'll use the GPS speedo on my phone for now.

Driveshafts ordered from Tom Woods and should be here mid week.

Ordered a set of rear parking brake calipers too, since I don't have a transfercase parking brake anymore. I may use the original dash handle or install a floor mount lever. Still undecided there.

 

[scrapdaddy]

There's plenty to think about while building one. I love the glove box light, reminds me of the one on my old ford tractor. Question...what a/c did you go with?

 

[CenTXFJ60]

Great progress Coop. Is it looking good for SAS?