Build 1972 FJ55 - Hamilton
- Thread starter samc2447
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Nice way to get it done!
- Thread starter
- #23
Yes, his other hobby was restoring COEs. Don't recall what it was as that's the only picture I hadNice, 3/4 ton Piggy. PG
when that happen
. Whats the story on COE in 1st pic?? Ford or Intermational??
- Thread starter
- #24
I'll run just a regular cone filter at first. I'm going to stick a second battery under the hood, so will wait to figure that out before I build a custom airbox. Ultimately thinking I'll build something that uses a stock GM truck filter
- Thread starter
- #25
No, he was just a flake. Some blah blah bs about his truck breaking down. Idiot didn't realize that since I paid him with Venmo I could see all his transactions. He just was an a-hole.
- Thread starter
- #26
Here is the style I use linky. I've put them in several trucks. You need to run a DD converter or non-stock fuel gauge. I'm going to run a set of Speedhut gauges so I'll have no issue connecting it directly - temporarily I'll put an underdash fuel gauge I have laying around in.
Yes, the body sit's level. It has about a 1-1 1/2 inch body lift. The back is just a bit higher as there's no weight there in those photos
Ya, I had a trasporter call me and say come get your truck I'm downtown by Firestation! I said I payed you to to deliver to my house!!!! Plus it's not registered or insured! He says I'll drive it to you but you need to drive me back 
. I says O.K. Crazy 
. I says O.K. Crazy 
So the back might sit a little lower once the tank is full, eh?
- Thread starter
- #29
50 gallons of fuel will do that
This was difficult to factor in with the slider shackle set up. Hamilton should be good once everything is installed ready to play.
Excellent progress, Steve. Very nice.
- Thread starter
- #32
Plugging away. This takes time to allow for drying.
2 coats Lizard Skin sound control
2 coats heat control
Letting it cure a few days before bed liner on the floor. Thinking I'll just paint the underside of the roof Cygnus white as I have a bunch on hand.
2 coats Lizard Skin sound control
2 coats heat control
Letting it cure a few days before bed liner on the floor. Thinking I'll just paint the underside of the roof Cygnus white as I have a bunch on hand.
Will these wheels tuck the tires better so you can get rid of those unfortunate 'flares'?
- Thread starter
- #35
Not even close. The 1 ton axles are wide. Later on I may narrow them but for now they stay. The flares aren't my favorite, but will decide on keeping them or not after I get it rolling
About to do some spraying of lizard skin. How much did you order to get the necessary coverage?
- Thread starter
- #37
I used 2 gallons of each to coat the floor and roof. 2 coats to their spec. If stacking both products you need to do the sound control first.
I highly recommend buying their shurtz gun. I tried a regular shurtz gun years ago and it didn't work at all. The stuff is extremely thick and sprays perfectly with their gun.
*Edited to change that it was 2 gallons each.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #38
Been plugging away when I have a few minutes here and there. The bedliner took a while to cure due to the temperature, even though my shop is heated.
Final Atlas shifter configuration. No major mods needed to the transmission hump. As I mentioned earlier, I used a heep application. I did have to cut things down to give me some clearance between the shifter pivot and the transmission. Getting it as far forward as possible was needed to avoid sheet metal work.
Added some white paint to the shifter knobs
Pretty happy with the end result. I'll need to make a ring for the transmssion boot. It's an early 4Runner application that City Racer sells. Works perfect and great quality.
Also removed the non-stock wiring under the dash. Removed the HVAC controls since I won't be using them. Installed the CEL in an empty spot. Replaced the GM headlight switch with a stock correct 72 switch I had in my parts bin. Mounted the OBDII port. Then tested all the circuits. I have a few burnt out marker lights but everything worked there. I have a short internally on the wiper motor, so pulled it and will dive into that soon.
Lubricants have been added to the driveline in anticipation of startup. Only thing delaying that is the PS cooler and the fuel fill neck. Getting close.
Final Atlas shifter configuration. No major mods needed to the transmission hump. As I mentioned earlier, I used a heep application. I did have to cut things down to give me some clearance between the shifter pivot and the transmission. Getting it as far forward as possible was needed to avoid sheet metal work.
Added some white paint to the shifter knobs
Pretty happy with the end result. I'll need to make a ring for the transmssion boot. It's an early 4Runner application that City Racer sells. Works perfect and great quality.
Also removed the non-stock wiring under the dash. Removed the HVAC controls since I won't be using them. Installed the CEL in an empty spot. Replaced the GM headlight switch with a stock correct 72 switch I had in my parts bin. Mounted the OBDII port. Then tested all the circuits. I have a few burnt out marker lights but everything worked there. I have a short internally on the wiper motor, so pulled it and will dive into that soon.
Lubricants have been added to the driveline in anticipation of startup. Only thing delaying that is the PS cooler and the fuel fill neck. Getting close.
Great job on those shifter knobs.
