Builds 1972 FJ55 - Hamilton (1 Viewer)

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a smaller 1200 series battery to power a fridge and coms when the truck is off
Something to think about…



A smaller 1200 like the Odyssey (PC1200) AGM is rated at 44 amp hours or about 20 usable and weighs 37 lbs. It doesn’t take too many discharges running the fridge to do permanent damage to an AGM battery (don’t ask how I know this) and that will happen pretty quickly at 20 AH.



If you’re not already committed to the small AGM take a look at the smaller LiFePO4 batteries.

You can build a 60 AH system for about the same money as the small AGM and package it in the unused area in the rear quarter panels out of the way.

I’ve had good luck with these guys, and I believe Johnny @GLTHFJ60 used something similar but 100 AH.

Affordable Electric Vehicle Batteries & Components from Electric Car Parts Company - https://www.electriccarpartscompany.com/Fortune-60Ah-Aluminum-Encased-Battery



You’ll need a BMS something like this and if you look around they can be bought for about $70.00.



 
It doesn’t take too many discharges running the fridge to do permanent damage to an AGM battery
I was replacing my AGM group 31 battery every year on warranty. Got sick of the head ache and worrying about keeping food cold. Went lithium and have had no worries since.
 
I got 3 keys with the truck, and all of them turn the ignition fine. But the doors and tailgate switch are another issue. I pulled the door cylinders and the markings were illegible. I pulled the tailgate switch and same thing. Lastly, pulled the ignition switch and I could make out the code. So I texted my buddy @ToyotaMatt and we had a quick call to get some keys properly made. So these are in the mail now.

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I decided to get the snow version because it's very cold in Texas right now 🤣
Quick call???????
Ha…just kidding…Matt is the man for the jam!!!!
 
Since the brass gear is unobtamioum now the 3D Printed gears are a great alternative. I recomend them and have installed several now.
Yeah, I had ordered one and printed my own in advance of tearing it down fully expecting that was the issue.
 
Something to think about…



A smaller 1200 like the Odyssey (PC1200) AGM is rated at 44 amp hours or about 20 usable and weighs 37 lbs. It doesn’t take too many discharges running the fridge to do permanent damage to an AGM battery (don’t ask how I know this) and that will happen pretty quickly at 20 AH.



If you’re not already committed to the small AGM take a look at the smaller LiFePO4 batteries.

You can build a 60 AH system for about the same money as the small AGM and package it in the unused area in the rear quarter panels out of the way.

I’ve had good luck with these guys, and I believe Johnny @GLTHFJ60 used something similar but 100 AH.

Affordable Electric Vehicle Batteries & Components from Electric Car Parts Company - https://www.electriccarpartscompany.com/Fortune-60Ah-Aluminum-Encased-Battery



You’ll need a BMS something like this and if you look around they can be bought for about $70.00.



Thanks for the info. I just finished installing a lithium battery setup in another truck. I don't know why I didn't think of that for this one. If time permits before my trip that's the way I'll go. If not the AGM for this trip.
 
Today's project will be to make a mount for a spare in the back. A 37 fits, but there's not a heck of a lot of extra room.

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Going to do something along the lines of this set up that I did for @Pigeaten

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Put the grill on last night while I was cutting parts on the plasma table. I put the original grill that had nice patina somewhere safe so it wouldn't get damaged, and of course I couldn't find it for the last month. I resorted to plan B and used another grill I had. It had been painted black so I blasted it and painted it with pewter that I had on hand. I posted the paint code in another thread, but here it is for anyone who needs it in the future.

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Side note, of course I found the original grill right after I wired in the lights :doh:
 
Today was a good day. It was also the day I gave myself a deadline to get this thing running to where I can put some shakedown miles on it before I leave in 4 weeks. There are a few details to sort out, but I was confident enough to order new tires for it after this test drive. If you've priced out tires lately, you'll know why I put this off until I was sure it was good to go.

 
Today was a good day. It was also the day I gave myself a deadline to get this thing running to where I can put some shakedown miles on it before I leave in 4 weeks. There are a few details to sort out, but I was confident enough to order new tires for it after this test drive. If you've priced out tires lately, you'll know why I put this off until I was sure it was good to go.


Two Words Coop, Glass Cleaner! Sounds great though...
 
Putting some miles on it. Gauges work as they should. I did a quick 3d print to mask the length that the signal and HB indicators stick out. I'll need to refine this later as I didn't account for the slight angle that they come out at. Also, got impatient and didn't let the paint dry so it scratched, but it matches the rest of the dash :)

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I guess I'll have to tell Sammy that I can drive 55.

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Punch list seems to keep growing, but it's smaller things at least.

Oh, and I think I'm just slightly over the $5k budget :cool:
 
Nice to see a crawler 55 ,Brings back memories , I had chevy 63 rear leafs on my 55 Lots of travel , Altas x case nice .Go anywhere you want . Good build !
 
Putting some miles on it. Gauges work as they should. I did a quick 3d print to mask the length that the signal and HB indicators stick out. I'll need to refine this later as I didn't account for the slight angle that they come out at. Also, got impatient and didn't let the paint dry so it scratched, but it matches the rest of the dash :)

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I guess I'll have to tell Sammy that I can drive 55.

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Punch list seems to keep growing, but it's smaller things at least.

Oh, and I think I'm just slightly over the $5k budget :cool:

Are those 37s?
 
Been driving it and had some issues to work out. On the lift at full droop my front driveshaft was binding at the pinion. 2 options here, a severe angle u-joint or rotate the pinion.

Severe angle u-joints have vibration issues above about 10mph, so okay off-road on the front axle, and with the Atlas I can easily take the front out of 4x4, but the hubs are still locked so the driveshaft would still spin - so not an option for me.

Rotated the pinion up with some shims. 2 degrees almost cleared, and 4 degrees fully cleared. Downside is that that moves the castor in the wrong direction, so it drove terribly.

Pulled the shims and it drives better, but I'm only at 3.2-3.5 degrees of castor. I'd like to get twice that. So, I will be doing two things, rotating the pinion up and cutting and rotating the steering knuckles to give me the castor I want.

This truck had the engine mounts installed when I got it and we just went with it. Looking at the engine it was angled up too much for my liking so I took the mounts off and dropped it about 1.5 inches. This gave me a better front driveline angle by about 3 degrees, but required me to drop the radiator and shroud to match. I did this in hopes of getting it on my trip, but decided ultimately to shelf it for now and come back and do it properly and allow sufficient time to work the bugs out.

Here's the engine lowered without the mounts. I've got just enough clearance next to the header and frame. I changed the PS pump while I was in there, but now wish I had done a remote reservoir style. This was a new OEM GM pump, so knock on wood it will last for a long time.

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I did get some new rubber. Went with 37" Yokohoma X-MTs at the recommendation of my buddy @Zjohnsonua The old rubber was 17 years old so needed to be replaced.

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Also, put on my Bowfin rack from my buddy @dogfishlake

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New tires improved the ride and handling. I took it up to 65 and it seems happy.
 

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