I have a ½” feed line, 3/8” return and a ¼” vent line going to a charcoal canister in my tank.
IMHO it would be easier to make a new tank than try to save your stock tank.
1969 FJ55 Build Thread
- Thread starter TuffMudder
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I have a ½” feed line, 3/8” return and a ¼” vent line going to a charcoal canister in my tank.
IMHO it would be easier to make a new tank than try to save your stock tank.
TuffMudder
Still working on my FJ55!
- Thread starter
- #222
Yeah, It's hard enough to get someone who'll weld on fuel tanks anyway. I wanted a long rang tank, so between this and your comment that i'd need a bigger feed line to the 4bt, I guess I'm going to get one. Unfortunately, that means the fuel system gets pushed to the side while i find someone who can make a custom tank.
I'm curious @J Mack, if you had your tank to do over again, would you have still done 1/2" pick up or gone up to 5/8"? Also, on your fuel pickups, is there a reason you didn't put 4 in series with 1 in each corner?
My last outing with the pig I was having fuel pickup issues on steep hills, the issue was with the large tank I still had 10 to 15 gallons of fuel but with such a large floor it would all run away from the pickup tube in the front so I decided to make a new top and install a couple of Walbro pickups. I’m hoping these will solve the issue and if not I’m looking at the new Holly Hydromat.
Those fuel lines to the pickups look rigid. Is that the case or just the pic? Just looks like it would be a bit tight to reassemble inside the tank
What's that coming out of the side of the tank in the lower right corner of the pic?
Here is the drawing for my tank. It is about 40 gallons and fits in the stock position but replaces the area you would have a spare tire. The bottom is flush with the frame rail and uses the stock sender location for the in-tank pump. I used a 99 camaro pump with 3/8" supply and return line. I used the 5/16" breather and just plugged it into the vapor separator. I have had zero fill issues or vapor lock. It was built and shipped from San Bernardino for $500.
TuffMudder
Still working on my FJ55!
- Thread starter
- #224
Thanks @Megadoomer . That is incredibilty helpful. With the tank installed, do you feel like the tank is as large as you would have wanted in that space or do you think you could have made it a little bigger? How did you mount it?
Who built it for you?
Who built it for you?
Megadoomer Build
Post 125 starts the build.
If i made it bigger it would have been impossible to install. As it is it was still a pain but with the pump accessible from the top i shouldn't have to drop the tank for a decade. The only thing i might do different was the year pump i used. 98 and above GM went to 40-250 ohms and no body makes a fuel gauge for it. 97 is 0-90 ohms and very common. I think the pump is roughly the same style.
Post 125 starts the build.
If i made it bigger it would have been impossible to install. As it is it was still a pain but with the pump accessible from the top i shouldn't have to drop the tank for a decade. The only thing i might do different was the year pump i used. 98 and above GM went to 40-250 ohms and no body makes a fuel gauge for it. 97 is 0-90 ohms and very common. I think the pump is roughly the same style.
TuffMudder
Still working on my FJ55!
- Thread starter
- #226
Plumbing the fuel lines is pushed back a bit until I get a new tank, so i'll move forward with restoring and reassembling the pieces that form the engine compartment. In the mean time I've got to decide what to do about the rust issue that has resurfaced (pardon the pun)
Rust issues
Link has pics. I have to decide, to I just except that this truck is not going to have a rust problem despite my efforts, or back up and figure out a way to fix the problem
Rust issues
Link has pics. I have to decide, to I just except that this truck is not going to have a rust problem despite my efforts, or back up and figure out a way to fix the problem
Man. I read this and your rust thread.
Holy s***.
These thoughts are random and come from 25 years of building Cruisers.
Fuel. Nowhere you will ever drive this vehicle in the Lower 48 will get you far enough from diesel that a stock 24 gallons and a 4BT won't be enough. By about 10 gallons.
SOA. You are way way too tall. Toss the add a leafs first then start at the small leaf above the smallest leaf. They should be flat unless you are running 40s
Rockers and Rust. Soak that bitch in this stuff.
Buy 12 cans or bulk and go to town.
Rust Converters
Scuff up the rusted areas and spray with rust stop (not POR it does what your POR is doing)
Bedliner on the outside. God please no. That locks in all your problems as you see with lizard skin.
Quit spending money on this and work with what you have already purchased.
Holy s***.
These thoughts are random and come from 25 years of building Cruisers.
Fuel. Nowhere you will ever drive this vehicle in the Lower 48 will get you far enough from diesel that a stock 24 gallons and a 4BT won't be enough. By about 10 gallons.
SOA. You are way way too tall. Toss the add a leafs first then start at the small leaf above the smallest leaf. They should be flat unless you are running 40s
Rockers and Rust. Soak that bitch in this stuff.
Buy 12 cans or bulk and go to town.
Rust Converters
Scuff up the rusted areas and spray with rust stop (not POR it does what your POR is doing)
Bedliner on the outside. God please no. That locks in all your problems as you see with lizard skin.
Quit spending money on this and work with what you have already purchased.
TuffMudder
Still working on my FJ55!
- Thread starter
- #228
Lol, that's advise I should have taken a long time ago. I appreciate all of the feedback
The issue with the fuel tank isn't so much about the size, but the fact that it doesn't have a 3rd port for the charcoal canister, the pick up is too small of the 4bt and there isn't an overflow. I could have the current tank modified, but for the price, I'm thinking I might as well have a full tank done.
I'm going to get what I need to strip some paint and then prep and respray with primer. I'll strip the paint from the non lizard skin areas showing rust and a small margin around and see what the metal looks like. I'm hoping just respraying those areas will be enough. I'm going to get agressive with those areas underneath that didn't get paint and are covered in rust. I'll use the rust converter on areas I can't do anything else about.
The add a leaf was definitely a mistake. I read every 4bt and SOA thread I could find here and on 4bt swaps and had read the add a leaf was a necessity if you keep the stock leafs, so I did it. Hindsight I suppose. I had already considered removing them, but wasn't sure if that would mess with other aspects of the suspension. Specifically, I had the shocks custom built based on min and max lengths. If I change the leafs, I change those lengths, will I need to change the shocks? I don't know the answer so for now I've left the leafs. I'll add to my todo list to call Ben at Filthy motors to ask him about that
One other thing I was curious about was your comment on the leaf springs needing to be flat. I read A LOT of articles over a long period of time about SOA and 4bt swaps for the pig and this is the first time I've heard that. Obviously there is a YUGE, BIGLY difference between reading and practical knowledge, so I tend to differ those to have done over those who have read in these situations
TuffMudder
Still working on my FJ55!
- Thread starter
- #229
@J Mack My local home depot doesn't carry that wet blaster kit and it's on 2 week back order, so it will be a bit before I have it, but i'm going to give it a try. If my power washer wont keep up, I'm still going to make the pvc paint booth, so I'll have an area for dry media blasting at least for small parts. The wet sure would be a lot nicer for the underside of those rockers that were missed though
Yes your shocks Will change but likely not enough to matter well, in the rear it depends on the angle you mounted them.
Sort through your ride height. With weight fully on the truck before you get to this. Guessing gets you where you are now.
Flat SOA springs make it ride right. Look at any 3/4 ton leaf truck factory and the leafs are flat.
If you can't get the lift you want then go from there but with 35's you don't need 6" of lift
Sort through your ride height. With weight fully on the truck before you get to this. Guessing gets you where you are now.
Flat SOA springs make it ride right. Look at any 3/4 ton leaf truck factory and the leafs are flat.
If you can't get the lift you want then go from there but with 35's you don't need 6" of lift
Sorry Rodney I didn’t see this earlier,
My 4bt is a P-pump model, at one point I calculated the fuel requirement at the projected power level I was shooting for, the suction line at the length I have was right at the upper limit for 3/8” hard line so I up sized to ½”. I don’t have those numbers sitting here in front of me but you would have to turn up a 4BT up pretty high (like 500HP +) to out flow a ½” suction line.
The only reason I have three pickup instead of four is the supply house was short one fitting and I was pushed for time, this setup solved the issue I was having and I don’t feel to need to change it but yes my plan was to put four in the tank.
You are using spring sliders front and back and the 4BT is a bit heavier than most engine swaps, you’re talking about a long range tank (FYI I love mine +/- 1000 between fill-ups), this is nontraditional 55 stuff all in one package and no one can say for certain exactly what springs you’ll ultimately need but the ones you have will be a good starting point. I agree with @wngrog just leave them and get your 55 complete with all the weight before making any adjustments, shock travel shouldn’t change much but shock mounts could if you start making big changes (+/- 3”) but that’s all easy.
You might be smart to put your body beautification on the back burner for a bit and get the pig put together and running with all the fab work done, painting a complete vehicle is a better option than cutting and welding on a freshly painted vehicle.
My 4bt is a P-pump model, at one point I calculated the fuel requirement at the projected power level I was shooting for, the suction line at the length I have was right at the upper limit for 3/8” hard line so I up sized to ½”. I don’t have those numbers sitting here in front of me but you would have to turn up a 4BT up pretty high (like 500HP +) to out flow a ½” suction line.
The only reason I have three pickup instead of four is the supply house was short one fitting and I was pushed for time, this setup solved the issue I was having and I don’t feel to need to change it but yes my plan was to put four in the tank.
You are using spring sliders front and back and the 4BT is a bit heavier than most engine swaps, you’re talking about a long range tank (FYI I love mine +/- 1000 between fill-ups), this is nontraditional 55 stuff all in one package and no one can say for certain exactly what springs you’ll ultimately need but the ones you have will be a good starting point. I agree with @wngrog just leave them and get your 55 complete with all the weight before making any adjustments, shock travel shouldn’t change much but shock mounts could if you start making big changes (+/- 3”) but that’s all easy.
You might be smart to put your body beautification on the back burner for a bit and get the pig put together and running with all the fab work done, painting a complete vehicle is a better option than cutting and welding on a freshly painted vehicle.
TuffMudder
Still working on my FJ55!
- Thread starter
- #232
Since there's going to be a delay on both a fuel tank and access to the wet sandblaster, so i'm going to move on to my warn 8274 (picked up on craigslist for $400) in the meantime. I'm going to drop these two links here for easier reference
Project penetration oil -
Project penetration oil -
From @GLTHFJ60 Moonshine build thread, lots of other good 4BT info there.
DNA Knowledge Base :: Performance modifications for the Warn M8274 high mount
Stronger Warn 8274
Warn Critical Care: It’s Easy To Rebuild Your 8274’s Brake And Free-Spool Actuator
Rebuilding the legendary Warn M8274 electric winch step by step
My WARN 8274 rebuild part 1.....
Wiring an 8274 + Albright
J Mack, you are truly the search master!
Is that a polite way of saying I need a life and job?
Epic build!!
TuffMudder
Still working on my FJ55!
- Thread starter
- #237
TuffMudder
Still working on my FJ55!
TuffMudder
Still working on my FJ55!
- Thread starter
- #239
This finally arrived today
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8/Tenagra/FJ55/Rust/83F48465-014A-4539-8130-238280EE8A01.jpg
I picked up some crushed glass media from grainger and I'm going to blast some rust this weekend. The attachment calls for a minimum of 3gpm flow and my pressure washer is 2.4. Hopefully it will work, if not, I'll return it and pick up a dry sandblaster
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8/Tenagra/FJ55/Rust/83F48465-014A-4539-8130-238280EE8A01.jpg
I picked up some crushed glass media from grainger and I'm going to blast some rust this weekend. The attachment calls for a minimum of 3gpm flow and my pressure washer is 2.4. Hopefully it will work, if not, I'll return it and pick up a dry sandblaster
Last edited:
TuffMudder
Still working on my FJ55!
- Thread starter
- #240
once I get the sandblasting down, my plan is to start on the parts that make up the engine compartment one piece at a time.
I'll sandblast, dry, wipe down with wax and grease remover then 2 coats of 2 part epoxy, 2 coats of 2k high fill. Let that cure then scuff and single stage stage urethane.
I have limited painting experience so any pointers are appreciated. I plan to take my time and get this done right this time.
Any suggestions on an inexpensive paint gun that will get the job done?
I'll sandblast, dry, wipe down with wax and grease remover then 2 coats of 2 part epoxy, 2 coats of 2k high fill. Let that cure then scuff and single stage stage urethane.
I have limited painting experience so any pointers are appreciated. I plan to take my time and get this done right this time.
Any suggestions on an inexpensive paint gun that will get the job done?
