Builds 1968 FJ40 Wheeler Build (1 Viewer)

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With all the fab work already done for the H42 would the 4.88 gear be a good option? Jason spent a lot of time getting everything lined up and I hate going backwards or down the rabbit hole

Fab work was to use a 60 bellhousing/rear crossmember not a 40 with the rear motor mounts. H41 and H42 are the same length, different 1st gear ratio.
 
We have an H41 in the barn?
 
Wait, Why the downgrade from indestructable 4-point mounting to engine mount shredding 3-point mounting?

Edit: Nevermind, I see that this went straight from 3speed FJ40 to 85-87 FJ60 drivetrain, so there was never a 4speed BH with rear mounting ears in the mix...
 
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We are considering epoxy priming and bedlining exterior. Either Monstaliner or Raptor liner.

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My original intentions were to paint the exterior in Subaru Caramel Bronze Pearl F1H (same as the motor now) and interior would be Monstaliner in Brown Eyed Girl. Which IMO, was the best match/blend for the F1H.

Jason

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I have not noticed any downside with the wider rear axle. Except the pinion is not as offset as a 40 rear pinion. I had some trouble with driveshaft vibration and thought I would have to run a rear CV shaft. But I got the pinion angles dialed in almost perfectly and I only get a mild vibration at times now. I have a fj80 rear axle which is the 63 and a widened fj60 front axle with 4plus products housing spacer which makes it 61.5". I could have and should have stacked spacers on the front to make the front 64". But it's fine I guess. It has the look I like and it works fine.
If u put a fj60 axle in the back u don't have to outboard the rear springs.
BTW I don't think trail trailer is making bumpers anymore. Not sure why. They were sweet.


I'm still making bumpers. But only one-off customs, no more standard production bumpers.

J
 
Yea I'm just throwing my opinion around, to give some ideas. If u run a 5 speed Trans then I would go 4.88s in the diffs. If a 4 speed then I would stick to 4.11s with 35s. Personally I don't really think a 5 speed is necessary with bigger tires in a 40. Especially since a 5 speed takes up valuable drivetrain length. If u have a split case you have the option of installing AA 4:1 gears. Last I checked they were 900 bucks.
Keep in mind if u end up going narrower than u like axle width wise, then u gotta add spacers of some sort or wheels with little backspacing which is tougher on the steering components due to increased scrub radius. Not a terrible thing, but something to keep in mind so as to be certain what axle width will work best for u otherwise u may need to beef up the steering.
 
H41 is lower first gear than H42

@FJ40Jim whats it take to adapt an H41 to later split case(we have an early one too)? I'm heading south towards CBUS soon. I can snap some pics of the storage areas and if anything catches your eye I can save you a trip. I do have a hatch/header put aside for you.

You can find 19-spline H41's out there, I had one in my 62 for awhile..
 
It's not that 19 spline H41s are hard to get. This truck already has a 'dummy' H55 in it, so if lower gearing is needed (and it is for a 2F on 36's to accelerate uphill away from a stop sign) then a H55 is a bolt in solution.

For the price mentioned by Whitestripe, the 4:1 t-case gears are a great option also.

FWIW, if the driveshafts have not already been built, I would like to see the shorter length of a 81-84 H41 backed up with a 38mm splitcase with either the stock 2.27 low or the 4:1 gears. Move the axle back a few inches, try to get the rear d-shaft longer to minimize driveline angles and allow more rear axle articulation without binding the 6" long rear d-shaft. With 4.11 and H41, pulling away from a stop would not be bad, and the 36" tires & 4.11 would be a big OD (maybe too much, IME) for highway driveability.
 
I hated having the rear axle being wider than the front axle. Could not hold a line off road to save my life.
 
A bit under 2 inches per side
 
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FWIW I used Smooth Durabak bedliner inside and out then sprayed my final color over it (rattle can in my case for easy touchup). Rough bedliner is so hard to keep clean.
 
One advantage of the slightly wider rear. When your wheeling and trying to keep the edge of your tire up on something, your front end is up, since you steered it there, now with a wider rear, you can hold that lip on there, where being narrower may have missed it entirely. But this is a moot point since fj60 axles are being used.
As far as doing a spring over, I'm curious why the op wants to go spring over? Sounds like u aren't going to wheel it a lot.
 
It's not that 19 spline H41s are hard to get. This truck already has a 'dummy' H55 in it, so if lower gearing is needed (and it is for a 2F on 36's to accelerate uphill away from a stop sign) then a H55 is a bolt in solution.

For the price mentioned by Whitestripe, the 4:1 t-case gears are a great option also.

FWIW, if the driveshafts have not already been built, I would like to see the shorter length of a 81-84 H41 backed up with a 38mm splitcase with either the stock 2.27 low or the 4:1 gears. Move the axle back a few inches, try to get the rear d-shaft longer to minimize driveline angles and allow more rear axle articulation without binding the 6" long rear d-shaft. With 4.11 and H41, pulling away from a stop would not be bad, and the 36" tires & 4.11 would be a big OD (maybe too much, IME) for highway driveability.

I agree. 36" + H41 + 4.11 + FJ40 will be a good combo. The only issue I have with the 4:1 gears are that they reduce the hi-range by 10%, effectively giving the illusion of 4.56 diff gears. Good with 36" tires however maybe H55f will be required for the overdrive. Only way to really tell is to drive it.
 
One advantage of the slightly wider rear. When your wheeling and trying to keep the edge of your tire up on something, your front end is up, since you steered it there, now with a wider rear, you can hold that lip on there, where being narrower may have missed it entirely. But this is a moot point since fj60 axles are being used.
As far as doing a spring over, I'm curious why the op wants to go spring over? Sounds like u aren't going to wheel it a lot.
One advantage of the slightly wider rear. When your wheeling and trying to keep the edge of your tire up on something, your front end is up, since you steered it there, now with a wider rear, you can hold that lip on there, where being narrower may have missed it entirely. But this is a moot point since fj60 axles are being used.
As far as doing a spring over, I'm curious why the op wants to go spring over? Sounds like u aren't going to wheel it a lot.

Part of it is the challange of doing something that i havnt done before, we have installed a few OME kits. We want a capable 40 that is well built. Not saying that SUA isnt capable. I have alot of the parts to do a SOA with the exception of the 60 springs. The 72 that we are building is pretty much sticking to the formula of OME 2" lift, oem steelies, 33"km2, etc. This 68 will be different.

A few pics of the 72 and my dad's stock 69:

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What do u mean by 60,axles? Fj60 or Dana 60? I would not put liner on the outside. Paint is easy to fix and will look much cleaner. Bedliner exteriors are for Jeep Cherokees. Plus a fj40 body uses spot weld construction. Applying bedliner seals the spot welds. If there is any rust between spot welds and u seal it up with bedliner, the rust will advance rapidly underneath the liner and you'll have to grind it off to do repairs.
Lots of 80's sporting exterior Bedliner. It makes sense for a rig that will actually be used off road.
 
@Jdc1, just curious at the Wheeler name in: "Tank" 1968 FJ40 Wheeler Build

Thanks
 

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