1" coil spring pads + 1" body lift vs 2 1/2 ome springs/shocks lift. (1 Viewer)

[Yotatron]

im looking to lift my FJ80 while spending the least amount of money.
Could I do the 1" pads combined with the 1" body lift or should I just save for gage popular $1k ome lift?

I plan to do the work myself. Thx

G'

 

[sbman]

I'm sure @gwnugget will post up, but I did just about that. I used the stock OEM Coils (for now), with 30mm spacers. I used 10" travel fox shocks custom made by downsouth motorsports but they weren't cheap relatively speaking. Due to the long travel shocks I had to extend the brake lines and drop the sway bar 3/4". It rides nice and I gained about 1" of ride height along with 2" of wheel travel. Big win. If I decide the OEM coils are too soft, I'll use some OME stock height units.

 

[Columbia Cruiser]

im looking to lift my FJ80 while spending the least amount of money.
Could I do the 1" pads combined with the 1" body lift or should I just save for gage popular $1k ome lift?

I plan to do the work myself. Thx

G'

Are you trying to save money or do you have an end result in mind? What size tires do you plan to run? FYI a 3 inch lift is pretty cheap.

 

[1973Guppie]

IMO this is not going to give you a good ride. Body lifts are meh and the stock toyota springs are thin and wear out over time. The OME spring will have much more spring tension and the ride will be much better.

 

[sbman]

Are you trying to save money or do you have an end result in mind? What size tires do you plan to run? FYI a 3 inch lift is pretty cheap.

This is a good question. For me it certainly wasn't about saving money. The custom remote reservoir adjustable shocks cost almost as much as an OME lift kit.

I have no interest in a body lift. I am happy to run 33" and wanted increased travel/articulation with the minimal possible lift from the ground. A spring based lift will not increase compressed suspension tire clearance, you have to add bumpstop, body lift or start trimming fenders for that. I wanted the COG as close to stock as possible. I re-used the oem springs to see how they do. I may end up changing out to the OME stock height springs, but I want to do shocks in the rear first.

I can say that this combination of 30mm spacers with oem springs and adjustable fox shocks gives a great ride. If you don't like the ride, you can change it quite a bit with the 8 position adjuster. If I want it overall firmer, the OME springs should accomplish that for me.

 

[702FZJ80]

You can run 33"s stock.........

I don't like body lifts, fwiw!

 

[sbman]

You can run 33"s stock.........

I don't like body lifts, fwiw!

That's my point. A 1" ride height increase was only done to satisfy the longer travel shocks. Unless you extend bumpstops, trim fenders or lift the body, the tire clearance does not change with lift.

 

[Heckraiser]

To the OP:

I'm just going to guess your stock suspension has about 200k miles on it, since that seems to be about the average. In that case, I think you would benefit more from an actual lift kit because you'll be replacing worn out springs and shocks that actually could use a replacement anyway (even if you were staying stock).

Nothing wrong with spacers to achieve a mild bump in ride height, but I'm guessing your truck could probably benefit from a suspension refresh, which the spacers wont help. Even if you want a very minimal lift, spacers plus new stock gear or spacers plus OME stock-height springs would probably be a good setup for you. If you're happy with the ride/handling of your tuck now, just give the spacers a try.

I personally don't like body lifts, and that is especially true for the 80 series since they can generally fit large tires (up to 315/35's) without it. In my mind, the only legitimate reason for a body lift is because you are absolutely satisfied with your suspension setup, but want to run a larger tire and you are averse to body trimming. The other reason is because you want to look cool when hitting on high school kids.

 

[Lankan]

I used the stock OEM Coils (for now), with 30mm spacers. I used 10" travel fox shocks custom made by downsouth motorsports but they weren't cheap relatively speaking. Due to the long travel shocks I had to extend the brake lines and drop the sway bar 3/4". It rides nice and I gained about 1" of ride height along with 2" of wheel travel. Big win. If I decide the OEM coils are too soft, I'll use some OME stock height units.

I may go this route as well, as I like to stay as low as possible with maximum articulation (on 33's). Anyone at Downsouth Motorsports I should speak with that would know your set-up? Also, how much did yours end up costing (just the shocks)?

 

[sbman]

I may go this route as well, as I like to stay as low as possible with maximum articulation (on 33's). Anyone at Downsouth Motorsports I should speak with that would know your set-up? Also, how much did yours end up costing (just the shocks)?

I don't think you need to speak to anyone in particular. My shocks were something like $350 each if I remember correctly, I specified 10" travel which is about 2" more than stock. A little more or less $$$ I don't remember for sure, but in that range. All the options I added, remote reservoir, adjuster, etc... added up, not sure what the cheapest route would have been. They are not off the shelf units you can order from Fox, they build them from Fox parts and valve them according to your description of how you want the ride to be, how much weight you have, etc... They will re-valve them for you for some certain time period if you aren't happy.

At the maximum setting of 8 the ride is noticeably more firm than stock. At the lowest setting, it is noticeably softer. I can tell because the rear damping is still stock and I can feel the difference from front to back.

The great thing is they are stem-stem mount with no adapters so you get maximum travel in the shortest package possible. If I had to run eyelet to stem adapters, I would have to put in at least a 1.5" bump stop to prevent over compression of the shock and would have to have used a longer spring gaining even more height. Without modifying the shock towers, axle shock mounts or bump stops, I think I've got the maximum suspension travel possible. If I choose to put OME stock height springs on, I might gain another 1/2" - 1" ride height just because they are stiffer.

I had to drop the sway bar to prevent the driveshaft from hitting it at full droop. I cycled the suspension with a jack and no coils to see the full range of motion and check clearances. I set the truck on the bump stops to check max shock compression. For my needs, additional height above the ground just isn't helpful. I'm not rock crawling and the trails I run don't have huge break over angles. In all honesty I am lucky to get to run dirt roads every other weekend, and real trail time is few and far between.

To the OP: what is your goal for lifting? If you want bigger tires than 33-35 you'll need a complete lift kit with bump stop additions, sway bar drops, brake line extensions and maybe even caster correction. If you want better handling, max 33" and more articulation, some long shocks along with 30mm spacer could be a budget option. You still need extended brake lines and sway bar drop. I made my own sway bar drop blocks out of aluminum bar stock. Easy if you have a drill press and something that will cut metal. I believe you could run OME L shocks with the 30mm spacer, OEM springs (or OME stock height springs) and the mods I just mentioned.

 

[n00g7]

Generally, only do a body lift when it's functional. Spending the least amount of money isn't functional, and you don't need a body lift for 35's, so just go with 2in spacers AND bushings for the control arms. Your shocks are probably tired, so get those too. The 2-2.5" kit with shocks/springs/bushings/etc is the way to go if you can afford it.

 

[sbman]

^^^ That too

I put all new OEM bushings in while I was doing the suspension work. If I need caster correction, I'll put plates in, I prefer that over the offset bushings.

 

[landcruiser80]

Great advice above. The question comes down to why you want the lift. If you need ground clearance and are content with your suspension, by all means throw some spacers on there. A body lift won't give you ground clearance.

Really the body lift seems to be the protagonist of this thread. Are you thinking about a body lift just so you can say you have a 2" lift kit? If so, why? Do you actually need 2" of lift? Because as stated above, the only reason for a body lift is for stuffing HUGE tires, or for some practical purpose such as in my 2FE build.

Your question was, "Could I do the 1" pads combined with the 1" body lift or should I just save for gage popular $1k ome lift?"
My answer is yes you could do that, but you would just be wasting your money on the body lift unless you actually need it. Since you are trying to save money I say that you should throw some spacers on for a temporary lift, and then begin saving for new shocks and springs.

 

[canman]

Body lift is easy to install, just need to redrill mtg holes for rad. Did it in 2-3 hrs with a mechanic buddy. It will raise the body only which reduces the amount your CoG will increase if you accomplished the same lift using springs. Everyone has different need/ tastes. Do what is right for you.

 

[Yotatron]

Are you trying to save money or do you have an end result in mind? What size tires do you plan to run? FYI a 3 inch lift is pretty cheap.

Main reason is to save money, I currently have 275 tires on but will buy the 285/75/16 when those are worked.
What vendor has a cheap 3 inch lift?

G'

 

[rc51kid]

if you are trying to do it cheap and then build it as money comes in, watch the classified. Find a used set of OME springs. 861/862 or 851/?. That will run you a little over $200. Drop in and give you 1-2" lift. Have better spring rates. Work fine with OEM shocks for short time and then when you get the other parts such as better shocks and extended brake lines and so on they will just bolt on with out having to start all over.

 

[Heckraiser]

Main reason is to save money, I currently have 275 tires on but will buy the 285/75/16 when those are worked.
What vendor has a cheap 3 inch lift?

G'

285 tires fit on a stock cruiser. No need for a lift at all, really.

 

[zona]

You may want to replace those old springs as Heckraiser stated--you're getting more roll than what newer springs would give. Get the OME 2.5" heavy lift with castor correction kit (bushings), throw on some 33" skinnies, extend the rear sway bars, extend the differential breathers and cap off with a VW filter. The ride with heavies and with bigger tires is better than what you have now, a much smoother ride. Once this is done, your arms will fit into your polo.

Zona

 

[GW Nugget]

285s/ 33s don't need a lift kit.

30mm spacers are cheapest way to lift, but not the best way to lift. A suspension lift is a better way to go. The spacers will be needed if you want to run longer shocks & retain the coils like @sbman wrote.

As mentioned above, keep a look out for some after market stock height springs like the OME 861/862.

 

[richardlillard1]

You may want to replace those old springs as Heckraiser stated--you're getting more roll than what newer springs would give. Get the OME 2.5" heavy lift with castor correction kit (bushings), throw on some 33" skinnies, extend the rear sway bars, extend the differential breathers and cap off with a VW filter. The ride with heavies and with bigger tires is better than what you have now, a much smoother ride. Once this is done, your arms will fit into your polo.

Zona

Do this, but without those girly tires!