What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (25 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Installed some LFD crossbars.
Did you notice any change in the noise? It seems like those slots would act like a chorus of flutes. I like this option, and the simplicity of the design vs a Prinsu like I had on my 4Runner. But concerned about increased noise (which is why I'm still on stock tires.) Thanks!
 
Did you notice any change in the noise? It seems like those slots would act like a chorus of flutes. I like this option, and the simplicity of the design vs a Prinsu like I had on my 4Runner. But concerned about increased noise (which is why I'm still on stock tires.) Thanks!
I took it on the highway because I was concerned about the noise too. I didn't notice much change. Maybe a little more wind noise, but nothing strange. I also have AT tires so I'm already dealing with a little more noise.

I like this option because you can upgrade to their prinsu style rack later and these bars are compatible with that. They sell an upgrade kit that's the side rails and a couple more bars
 
Did you notice any change in the noise? It seems like those slots would act like a chorus of flutes. I like this option, and the simplicity of the design vs a Prinsu like I had on my 4Runner. But concerned about increased noise (which is why I'm still on stock tires.) Thanks!
I have them as well and no additional noise. They are super stout. I plan on going with their full side rails as well…and their skid plate…and their front hybrid bumper for the LC200 when it is rolls out, which should be soon.
 
I have them as well and no additional noise. They are super stout. I plan on going with their full side rails as well…and their skid plate…and their front hybrid bumper for the LC200 when it is rolls out, which should be soon.

Hybrid bumper should already be out.
 
Finally reorganized dash switches, that is both positions, symbols and LED colors, I need up using Stedi and CH4x4 switches and getting all to have the Toyota blue backlighting and either green, amber, or red "on" indication. to do the lighting I inserted Stedi board into CH4x4 housing and desoldered LEDs on another. The SP-9100 mount is from SDHQ, however to improve (slightly) the view angle, I built up a wedge from Epoxy; it would be nice if SDHQ offered a 3D printed wedge to accomplish this.

C0D5E9FB-F386-4EEB-B42F-DBABFB9D4B25.jpeg


0B8048F3-9411-4617-B5F6-2960E7FC84A6.jpeg


5D2519C2-E42A-4D45-873E-AAA70B7D4679.jpeg
 
I see we have similar braking habits lol. That rotor had seen better days. Feedback on new brakes when you get a chance please.
Buttery smooth. I only had time to do the fronts but it feels a lot better. Initial bite comes a lot sooner. The rear will eventually get changed out to the Z36 as well.
 
SDHQ hidden winch install. Decided to try a Badlands Apex 1200. For under $600 with synthetic rope, I don't think you can go wrong. Install almost looks factory. Then third row removal. Still need to order the Heritage cargo mat. Also tweaked the preload on the front Kings to offset the weight of the winch. Going in for an alignment tomorrow. Big thank you to @bloc for finding a random Toyota part (1KZ turbo manifold bolt) that works really well for getting the adjustment collar past the reservoir hose, using a hammer and punch. Took all of 15 minutes per side to do 6 turns each.

52898212992_6d4fa089f0_c.jpg


52898951099_83fd84b1e0_c.jpg


52898951724_cf603cc717_c.jpg


52898953769_626bf4b301_c.jpg


52899236313_4b169e8b11_c.jpg
 
SDHQ hidden winch install. Decided to try a Badlands Apex 1200. For under $600 with synthetic rope, I don't think you can go wrong. Install almost looks factory. Then third row removal. Still need to order the Heritage cargo mat. Also tweaked the preload on the front Kings to offset the weight of the winch. Going in for an alignment tomorrow. Big thank you to @bloc for finding a random Toyota part (1KZ turbo manifold bolt) that works really well for getting the adjustment collar past the reservoir hose, using a hammer and punch. Took all of 15 minutes per side to do 6 turns each.

52898212992_6d4fa089f0_c.jpg


52898951099_83fd84b1e0_c.jpg


52898951724_cf603cc717_c.jpg


52898953769_626bf4b301_c.jpg


52899236313_4b169e8b11_c.jpg
Been debating on the hidden winch mount for a while now. Did you do an in cab control? Where did you mount the solenoid box?
 
Been debating on the hidden winch mount for a while now. Did you do an in cab control? Where did you mount the solenoid box?

This was actually an easy install that took all of an afternoon. I kept the solenoid box on the winch. It fits just fine after some minimal trimming. The SDHQ mount does come with a relocation bracket, but I don't see any advantage to relocating the box. I am able to get the wired controller into the box without any issues. Access to the lever to engage/disengage the clutch is not bad either. While in cab controls are pretty slick, I run 4 winches on various Landcruisers and use wired controllers on them all. Winching is not something I try to do on a regular basis, and it takes me all of a minute to plug in a controller. The Badlands Apex has a wireless feature too.
 
I took it on the highway because I was concerned about the noise too. I didn't notice much change. Maybe a little more wind noise, but nothing strange. I also have AT tires so I'm already dealing with a little more noise.

I like this option because you can upgrade to their prinsu style rack later and these bars are compatible with that. They sell an upgrade kit that's the side rails and a couple more bars
Thanks!
 
Decided to try a Badlands Apex 1200. For under $600 with synthetic rope, I don't think you can go wrong.

Hey! I agree with you and ran this winch for a long time and had many successful, reliable recoveries. However you can go wrong in one specific way:

The duty cycle on this winch is 45 seconds with a 15(!) minute cool down. I over extended mine and not only did it cook the solenoid (which is easy to replace) but it burnt the drive unit out (hard to replace). I replaced with a Warn EVO.
 
Hey! I agree with you and ran this winch for a long time and had many successful, reliable recoveries. However you can go wrong in one specific way:

The duty cycle on this winch is 45 seconds with a 15(!) minute cool down. I over extended mine and not only did it cook the solenoid (which is easy to replace) but it burnt the drive unit out (hard to replace). I replaced with a Warn EVO.

That is good to know! Just looked at the specs and yes....05% duty cycle. I may add a 500A fuse or breaker to help slightly protect it when pulling at close to its max rating.

And use my snatch block more.
 
That is good to know! Just looked at the specs and yes....05% duty cycle. I may add a 500A fuse or breaker to help slightly protect it when pulling at close to its max rating.

And use my snatch block more.
Yes good call. I still recommend this winch FWIW. Great option if you are patient with it.
 
Finally reorganized dash switches
Did the same, and also mounted the SDHQ-modified OE switch panel. I agree they should provide an option to angle the Switch Pros panel up a bit.

I installed my Redarc tow controler on the left, I can't see it on the right. It conveys some important status via the lights and I want to be able to stab it without hunting should I want manual emergency braking.
 
  • Like
Reactions: NTV
Wired up a MagSafe puck to get my phone out of the cup holder and preserve the lightning port. Worked very well over a 6k mile trip to PNW.

I have an idea for something far better when I get a small 3D printer..

IMG_9239.jpeg


IMG_9210.jpeg


IMG_9243.jpeg
 
Wired up a MagSafe puck to get my phone out of the cup holder and preserve the lightning port. Worked very well over a 6k mile trip to PNW.

I have an idea for something far better when I get a small 3D printer..

View attachment 3324291

View attachment 3324292

View attachment 3324290

Nice, magnetic mounts are great. What did you tap? 12v or USB?
I always wondered how to do this but given the charging circuitry is in the puck, I think you can just give it DC and ground on 2 of the usb pins?

I need to do this eventually too but keeping my 11 pro (5.8") until it croaks.
If you design a mount, there are some good services that will just ship it to you pretty affordably.
Ive used MakeXYZ before with great ease and success. You can search the model databases online for a magsafe puck mount, i bet there are a million.
 
Nice, magnetic mounts are great. What did you tap? 12v or USB?
I always wondered how to do this but given the charging circuitry is in the puck, I think you can just give it DC and ground on 2 of the usb pins?

I need to do this eventually too but keeping my 11 pro (5.8") until it croaks.
If you design a mount, there are some good services that will just ship it to you pretty affordably.
Ive used MakeXYZ before with great ease and success. You can search the model databases online for a magsafe puck mount, i bet there are a million.

I tapped the back of the lower cigarette lighter, wired to a 12v cigarette lighter socket tucked into a pocket under the HVAC ducting, then taped a high power Belkin USBC charger in there. I first tried a 12v to USBC power supply on amazon but it apparently didn't have the power to run the magsafe puck. It would charge on lightning cable just fine (though I don't know how fast), but the magsafe showed no charging.

I'm not familiar enough with whether the 12v leg of USBC needs to be "clean" or whatever.. or if it actually uses the 5V leg instead? The above was more hardware and cost but I know everything will play nice.

Part of the motivation for the 3D project is actually to learn how to do it. Thanks for the recs though, I'm an utter noob in this space and any info is good info.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom