What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (14 Viewers)
- Thread starter MrMoMo
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so now we have a face for the young heathen
I built and installed a cooler/stove slide. Also repurposed some old military file cabinets for my recovery gear and tools.
Investigating another hair brained Spook50 idea....
What idea? My crystal ball is malfunctioning.
Not much details yet, since I'm still in early stages of investigating and it's possible it won't even pan out feasibility wise. It's definitely not a Toyota blower though, I can say that. Long and short of it is I'm looking into options for a potential long term upgrade to the HVAC blower, using readily available parts that are much higher quality than the only aftermarket blower available as a direct replacement now.
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
Brushless motor FTW!
With a replaceable filter somewhere in the mix?
Went and picked up parts. Drove awesome trucks.
Didn't have time to delve much deeper into the blower concept today, but I was able to do a quick mockup of yet another hair brained idea: replacement lock actuators!
These are universal actuators for converting non-power lock doors that I got from Amazon. Their short stroke made them my first candidate. Though they are still slightly longer stroke than the OEM linear actuators, that doesn't seem to be an issue given how they operate. They snap to just as fast as properly working OEM actuators, which makes them look promising so far.
Unfortunately there's a big caveat with having them mounted in the same location as the OEM actuators: Their size makes them block the window. This is facing up and to the rear inside the driver's door with the window lowered not quite halfway to show where it would strike the actuator. I'm hoping a simple metal adapter and rod will allow them to be mounted low enough for the window to fully clear.
As it is now in just my driver's door, it works GREAT. I'm really curious to get a long term impression for how it'll work along with see how it will do in the cold of winter. Wish I would've gotten it in before this last winter, but that wasn't happening. I'll continue playing around with them and see where this project lands me.
The only thing that feels off is that turning and key and moving the lock by hand feels much "softer" like in a newer GM pickup or SUV, as opposed to the hard click you feel with the OEM actuators. Not necessarily a bad thing I don't think. Just, different.
These are universal actuators for converting non-power lock doors that I got from Amazon. Their short stroke made them my first candidate. Though they are still slightly longer stroke than the OEM linear actuators, that doesn't seem to be an issue given how they operate. They snap to just as fast as properly working OEM actuators, which makes them look promising so far.
Unfortunately there's a big caveat with having them mounted in the same location as the OEM actuators: Their size makes them block the window. This is facing up and to the rear inside the driver's door with the window lowered not quite halfway to show where it would strike the actuator. I'm hoping a simple metal adapter and rod will allow them to be mounted low enough for the window to fully clear.
As it is now in just my driver's door, it works GREAT. I'm really curious to get a long term impression for how it'll work along with see how it will do in the cold of winter. Wish I would've gotten it in before this last winter, but that wasn't happening. I'll continue playing around with them and see where this project lands me.
The only thing that feels off is that turning and key and moving the lock by hand feels much "softer" like in a newer GM pickup or SUV, as opposed to the hard click you feel with the OEM actuators. Not necessarily a bad thing I don't think. Just, different.
Attacking the rust in the rear and dropped on a new arb front bumper.
I would really like to, but that would involve designing a whole new housing for the blower to mount into, which would be a huge undertaking because they couldn't be churned out with just 3D printing. Vacuum molding would be an option, but that's a lot of investment capital even after a design is finalized that I don't have. Even with this BLDC I'm toying with, physical installation will require heavily modifying the existing lower half of the housing (due to different mounting hole location and the squirrel cage being larger than the OEM blower), and there's still the electrical I need to contend with. My hope is the ability to control it still with the OEM fan control switch, but have larger wires for power and ground that allow full current to be delivered directly from the battery. Since it uses a PWM (built in no less) to run the fan, this will hopefully be a viable option.
Technically not done to the cruiser, but in prep for it:
Spare (38mm) t-case I picked up from shmukster a few weeks back and started tear down on last night.
Plan is to rebuild, add in the Sumo 10% underdrive gears, attach it to a new h55 I've been sitting on for a while, then pop the whole thing in my 85, along with a clutch refresh and a few other odds and ends "while I'm in there".
It all sounds so quick and easy when I put it that way, but I'm sure there'll be some cursing and busted knuckles as I go.
Among other reasons, I sought out the late TC so I could run the UD gears, and using a spare case lets me pre-build the whole assembly in the bench to reduce downtime on the cruiser.
Spare (38mm) t-case I picked up from shmukster a few weeks back and started tear down on last night.
Plan is to rebuild, add in the Sumo 10% underdrive gears, attach it to a new h55 I've been sitting on for a while, then pop the whole thing in my 85, along with a clutch refresh and a few other odds and ends "while I'm in there".
It all sounds so quick and easy when I put it that way, but I'm sure there'll be some cursing and busted knuckles as I go.
Among other reasons, I sought out the late TC so I could run the UD gears, and using a spare case lets me pre-build the whole assembly in the bench to reduce downtime on the cruiser.
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While trying to track down why my rear hatch power lock doesn't work I discovered about an inch of dirt inside my driver's side rear panel. I couldn't figure out how it got there and just assumed it was from years of neglect. Then I was underneath the truck and realized that in the distant past whoever ran the wiring for the trailer hitch pulled out the rubber grommets and never pushed them back in place. So I cut a small slit in each one with a razor knife and sealed both holes the best I could. No before pictures but here are the afters:
I took a picture of something else I thought was interesting when I was down there....anyone know what these threaded brackets were for on the panel underneath the gas tank on my FJ62? They are located below the skid plate.
I took a picture of something else I thought was interesting when I was down there....anyone know what these threaded brackets were for on the panel underneath the gas tank on my FJ62? They are located below the skid plate.
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Those brackets are for this breather pipe https://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/e...791530_005_/body/7751_fuel-tank-tube/2#77261D
Looks like it was worth the wait. Who built it?
