Builds The Architect's '77 FJ40 (5 Viewers)

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Have you done a test suspension flex? Like on a ramp or something? Just eyeing your pics I think your rear tires will kiss the fender b4 the bumpstops. Its pretty easy to install bumpstop spacers if you need to.

I don't flex the snot out of my rig, thus it should be fine for my use. But you have a point there, maybe one day I'll find a ramp and check and see what it does. I take it, the correlation to lift and bumpstop extension isn't 1 to 1. Any suggestions to the extensions length possibly needed for the OME 2" (+/-) lift?
 
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I don't flex the snot out of my rig, thus it should be fine for my use. But you have a point there, maybe one day I'll find a ramp and check and see what it does. I take it, the correlation to lift and bumpstop extension isn't 1 to 1. Any suggestions to the extensions length possibly needed for the OME 2" (+/-) lift?
Since tire sizes vary even for 32" tires vary, its really best to ramp it, or use a forklift and lift a wheel until the tires almost kiss the fenders and then crawl under and measure. Hate to see the fenders get messed up crossing a ditch or something.
 
Rick, Stripe is right. Do a flex and measure for your bump stops. If you happen to be carrying a load or pulling a trailer, it won't take much to crunch those purdy fenders of yours. Just pulling off the road into a parking lot could mess you up. As time passes and the springs flatten out it will be even more important. Bump stop extensions are cheap insurance and totally worth doing.
 
Took a 5K walk along the Etowah River this morning, and snapped a few photos.

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Haven't really done too much to my rig in the past few weeks, except drive it as much as possible.
 
Took care of some engine maintenance last night. Installed one of these:
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and 8-1/2 of these:
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Quick question on your choice of oil viscosity. What was your reason for using 20-50 on rebuilt engine? Was your oil pressure running low?

On my rebuilt f I'm running brad penn oil at 10-30 and my pressure is at 40psi at idle. Just curious where your pressure is at.

Your rig is beautiful by the way.
 
I also run heavier in my 40. I use Mobil1 15W50 because it has lots of zinc in it and I have had great luck with synthetic. Rick, you and your family have a very Merry Christmas!!!
 
Quick question on your choice of oil viscosity. What was your reason for using 20-50 on rebuilt engine? Was your oil pressure running low?

On my rebuilt f I'm running brad penn oil at 10-30 and my pressure is at 40psi at idle. Just curious where your pressure is at.

Your rig is beautiful by the way.

My engine re-builder advised me to use Valvoline 20w-50. I choose the Valvoline VR1 for its additive package, especially the high zinc.

I'm not 100% sure of the oil pressure, other than the gauge shows to be in the normal range.

Thanks for the kind words.
 
I also run heavier in my 40. I use Mobil1 15W50 because it has lots of zinc in it and I have had great luck with synthetic. Rick, you and your family have a very Merry Christmas!!!

Merry Christmas to you and your family............as well as the MUD Family!
 
My engine re-builder advised me to use Valvoline 20w-50. I choose the Valvoline VR1 for its additive package, especially the high zinc.

I'm not 100% sure of the oil pressure, other than the gauge shows to be in the normal range.

Thanks for the kind words.
Thanks was just curious. I to am running a high zinc oil. I used the brad penn start up oil. There are so many choices. When I started mine up for the first time, I hooked up a pressure gauge to the oil sender port just for piece of mind. When I connected the sender back up it reads on the low side. I think in the future I will install a actual gauge.
 
Rick ....... big props. For a "do-it-yourself" guy you've done a fantastic job. Clean work and attention to detail, that ranks highly.

This is what owning a 40 is all about.

Keep it up!

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
 
Recently purchased a few items to refurbish. Not sure of the long term effects, but initially it did the trick.....and that is soaking these switches in Evaporust. Then cleaned them with water, took my air hose and blew them dry, then coated with WD-40.

Below, the middle two switches (Hazard & Heater) have already soaked over night, but the light and wiper haven't.
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After all them have been soaked and cleaned up.
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I was amazed at how well the Evaporust really cleaned these items. Note, I did repaint the knob lettering.
 
Wow looks great!

Ive been hoarding random switches over the years and plan to refurbish them over the winter. I would love to see what this evaporust looks like if you dont mind.
 
Uhhhh you removed all that patina... the guys at the antiques roadshow are going to let you know how worthless they are now

Lol

:)

Yep, they may.....but dust, dirt and grim in a switch doesn't lend itself to be a reliable electrical conductor. Besides, say what they will, all I did was remove the rust which I don't think came from the Toyota factory?

I got'cha brother! But me likes working with clean parts.
 
Wow looks great!

Ive been hoarding random switches over the years and plan to refurbish them over the winter. I would love to see what this evaporust looks like if you dont mind.
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I just used CLR rust remover to clean clamps, nuts and bolts but maybe the stuff you used would do a better job... did you rig anything to agitate the solution?
 
Looks good I’ve had great luck with evaporust. I have clear coated a few things after getting the corrosion off in it.. I didn’t know what else to do besides platting the morning painting them. I started using some old evapo to clan bolts. I forgot about the ash tray screws and 2 years later just the heads remained when I cleaned out the container, I looked up and down my garage and could never find them.

You brought those switches to the next level.

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