What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (47 Viewers)

[gasman4u]

Rear, Center and Front Diff, greased U joints and slip drive shafts. Used Supertech 75w90, with a splash of 75w140, maybe 20 %, for shear resistance and viscosity durability. Previous owner stated he had this done at 100k, I would say that he did it, based on the condition of the fluid and magnets.

I am normally a Valvoline person, but after looking toward a cheaper alternative. Especially now that Valvoline is owned by Aramco not a USA company anymore...............but I digress.

I did not remove the front diff drain plug. Very stuck and stripped.

I am sure I am not the only one to have this issue.....Does anyone have any tips on getting the front diff plug out, and is there a better replacement than the factory allen key garbage?

I can't find the thread, but that front diff plug is a real m@therf*(ker.....I used aerokroil and a plastic deadblow hammer for mine. Everytime. This is despite my changing it for the Kaon version of the drain plugs. Take your time.

I make the caveman discovering fire sound each time mine loosens for the first bit.

 

[bloc]

Rear, Center and Front Diff, greased U joints and slip drive shafts. Used Supertech 75w90, with a splash of 75w140, maybe 20 %, for shear resistance and viscosity durability. Previous owner stated he had this done at 100k, I would say that he did it, based on the condition of the fluid and magnets.

I am normally a Valvoline person, but after looking toward a cheaper alternative. Especially now that Valvoline is owned by Aramco not a USA company anymore...............but I digress.

I did not remove the front diff drain plug. Very stuck and stripped.

I am sure I am not the only one to have this issue.....Does anyone have any tips on getting the front diff plug out, and is there a better replacement than the factory allen key garbage?

Yes hit it solidly around the edge with a hammer and that’ll compress the copper crush washer that sticks. You can also try driving an oversized torx bit into the wallowed out hex hole for more help, but hammering around the edge really works.

There is a Lexus part that fits and has a 14mm external hex.. 90341-24016

 

[weaponoffreedom]

Can't remember who on here suggested it, but give the drain plug a good whack with a ball peen hammer or similar. There's a copper washer that gets stuck. I did that and it miraculously loosened.

I am going to give it a shot. I already rounded it out. But I have a nut and a welder......

 

[2021LC200owner]

Just applied for a personalized plate for my '21 Cruiser. Enthusiasts should know what it means. "LAST200"

 

[FJRanger]

Nice, almost went with that one myself. But decided on 21 URJ in the end.

 

[sedole]

Dr.KDSS BOTCK. Super beefy piece of kit and a truly bolt on affair. Wanted a shorty version but they were out of stock, so I bought one of the discounted gold powdercoated ones and turned it into a shorty myself. Truck handles corners notably better and stays significantly more composed over bumps/dips and hard braking. Rear wheels now have pretty even "poke" left to right with the body. Panhard bar is pretty much back to factory angle on my LX.

 

[Nothinghead]

Dr.KDSS BOTCK. Super beefy piece of kit and a truly bolt on affair. Wanted a shorty version but they were out of stock, so I bought one of the discounted gold powdercoated ones and turned it into a shorty myself. Truck handles corners notably better and stays significantly more composed over bumps/dips and hard braking. Rear wheels now have pretty even "poke" left to right with the body. Panhard bar is pretty much back to factory angle on my LX.

View attachment 3756099

How much lift do you have? Should the bar be perfectly horizontal and parallel to the axle/ground? I'm on stock springs with maximized sensor lift in the rear and so I'm unsure which option would be best for me. I believe I'm less than 2" over stock so I don't know if I would even benefit from this.

 

[sedole]

How much lift do you have? Should the bar be perfectly horizontal and parallel to the axle/ground? I'm on stock springs with maximized sensor lift in the rear and so I'm unsure which option would be best for me. I believe I'm less than 2" over stock so I don't know if I would even benefit from this.

I've got about 2.75" lift compared to stock AHC. And I don't think perfectly horizontal is needed at least in this instance. I don't recall my bar being perfectly horizontal to the ground when I still had AHC. Although I could be wrong, it's been a while now. My thinking was 1) at this relocation distance my wheels are even left to right in the wheel wells, whereas they were quite skewed before. And 2) since I no longer have auto load leveling, I'd rather the bar dip closer to level upon load rather than reverse angle if i was completely parallel to begin with.

I don't know that I'd bother if I just had a sensor lift tbh.

Here's a picture of the angle before the kit was installed. A bit steeper.

 

[skrypj]

Rear, Center and Front Diff, greased U joints and slip drive shafts. Used Supertech 75w90, with a splash of 75w140, maybe 20 %, for shear resistance and viscosity durability. Previous owner stated he had this done at 100k, I would say that he did it, based on the condition of the fluid and magnets.

I am normally a Valvoline person, but after looking toward a cheaper alternative. Especially now that Valvoline is owned by Aramco not a USA company anymore...............but I digress.

I did not remove the front diff drain plug. Very stuck and stripped.

I am sure I am not the only one to have this issue.....Does anyone have any tips on getting the front diff plug out, and is there a better replacement than the factory allen key garbage?

I almost got Valvoline just because of the easy pour pouches, but ended up doing Supertech like you.

 

[weaponoffreedom]

I almost got Valvoline just because of the easy pour pouches, but ended up doing Supertech like you.

The squeeze bottles a great. Over the years I have used nearly everything. And have seen no difference from over the counter stuff, to boutique oils like Amsoil. I think I am going to start using Supertech in everything. Oils today are so much better than they ever have been, and Supertech brand is made by Warren, Mobil, or Pennzoil. All are good blenders. Base additive packages, only come from 4 different places, to all the blenders to include AMsoil Redline and others.

I also noticed that the manual does not require synthetic gear lube, just states GL5. Maybe that is why they want 30k drain intervals? Not sure. But I would use Supertech with confidence, and change it at 30k.

 

[TeCKis300]

How much lift do you have? Should the bar be perfectly horizontal and parallel to the axle/ground? I'm on stock springs with maximized sensor lift in the rear and so I'm unsure which option would be best for me. I believe I'm less than 2" over stock so I don't know if I would even benefit from this.

The panhard at factory ride height IIRC is about 2-3 degrees down angle. As @sedole mentioned, this biases for compression travel, which is the more common in everyday driving.

I'm sensor lifted about 1.25" in the rear and I'm kind of in the same position as you. I have an Eimkeith PCK bracket on my worktable. Debating if I want to install it Part of that it is that I don't want to overcorrect, and because at full compression, it will cause more displacement that my 37s may get into the fenders.

 

[skrypj]

The squeeze bottles a great. Over the years I have used nearly everything. And have seen no difference from over the counter stuff, to boutique oils like Amsoil. I think I am going to start using Supertech in everything. Oils today are so much better than they ever have been, and Supertech brand is made by Warren, Mobil, or Pennzoil. All are good blenders. Base additive packages, only come from 4 different places, to all the blenders to include AMsoil Redline and others.

I also noticed that the manual does not require synthetic gear lube, just states GL5. Maybe that is why they want 30k drain intervals? Not sure. But I would use Supertech with confidence, and change it at 30k.

If I am changing my diff oil every 30k I am using the cheapest good option I can find.

 

[weaponoffreedom]

If I am changing my diff oil every 30k I am using the cheapest good option I can find.

I agree. As long as it meets the specs. And there is no evidence that Supertech is not just as good and the brand name stuff like Valvoline or Mobil1. That being said, If I would find brand names at 10 bucks a quart, I would go that route.

 

[TeCKis300]

What happened to moderation and a balanced approach. I've found it rarely beneficial to chase most, best, least, etc.

I tow heavy but I don't tow everyday. So while I'll change fluid closer to severe duty cycle, I don't change at 30k. I'll use a good fluid, but boutique and cheapest fluids don't appeal to me.

 

[2021 LC200]

I use Ravenol from Germany readily available via blauparts state side. Should be decent quality, comes in squeeze bottles with a hose and is reasonable priced.

Online example picture

 

[gasman4u]

Use whatever floats your boat. As you've found, there are P for plenty of options.

I used to be pure Amsoil all the way, but have slowly transitioned to HPL for all lubes. I've got HPL diff life in mine, and when the t case comes due it'll have the HPL 75W vs the magic canned stuff from Toyota.

Having solid data points to back up choices is what matters for others looking into this in the future.

 

[PDoyle]

Did someone type tow.... I think the best for the transfer case is Fully synthetic 75W90.

 

[supercarrera]

I'm probably wrong, but my thinking is that gear oil is gear oil. It probably doesn't matter that much what you run, unless it's forever and you're never going to change it.

I just watched an awesome youtube regear video with the CEO of ECGS and he recommends 140 weight non-synthetic so who knows?

 

[jlm43]

As I’m trying to adapt to life in a 200, I found myself missing the coin pocket to ram mount conversion that I did in my 100. First world problems for sure. It took a bit of bravery on my part as a replacement bezel assembly wouldn’t be cheap if this doesn’t work out.

I removed the shifter bezel and center console assembly and drilled some holes. The forward hole lines up with an existing screw so that one was easy. Remove the self tapping screw and drill completely through the assembly. Lined up the second hole using the ram mount and found an acceptable spot for a second screw. I used some stainless steel 8-32 countersunk screws with large area washers and self locking nuts on the bottom side.

So far it appears to be very stable. I’ll take it on a dirt road run this afternoon to see if there’s any shaking going on. While it makes the seat temperature control knob a bit harder to see, it really doesn’t make it any harder to use. The hand brake clears as well.

 

[skrypj]

What happened to moderation and a balanced approach. I've found it rarely beneficial to chase most, best, least, etc.

I tow heavy but I don't tow everyday. So while I'll change fluid closer to severe duty cycle, I don't change at 30k. I'll use a good fluid, but boutique and cheapest fluids don't appeal to me.

In regards to what? The service interval or the fluid. I havent actually looked up what the service interval is supposed to be, I just did it because my truck was closing on 60k miles. Not sure when I will do it next.

I consider Supertech full-synthetic gear oil to be a decent fluid, which is also cheap. You're just not paying the name brand tax.

Edit: Just looked at my service manual and they seem to suggest differentials should be every 15k miles when towing, t-case every 30k miles, and transmission every 60k miles. At this point I would say about 50% of this trucks miles are towing