What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (28 Viewers)

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So I got hit in rear in Houston back on 10/11. So my LC200 was dropped off to Caliber to get repaired. It has been some what of a pain ordeal. When I got home 2 hours after accident, I live in Round Rock, I called my carrier State Farm and reported the incident. The next day State Farm called me saying that Allstate, person that hit me, Insurance and no claim was yet opened and they could not open one on my behalf. So on Monday I called Allstate and filed claim. The next day all state calls me back and informs me that Allstate will not be covering the claim as driver was in capacity as Uber driver and his insurance did not cover that. I called back State Farm and they explain how I could contact Uber to report the incident. I did that and Progressive called me as they are Insurance of record for Uber I guess. They then tell me I have to take my vehicle to one of their repair centers. I have been forced once in past to use Progressive repair and lets just say not ever doing that again. I called State Farm back explained told them I pay for full coverage and I am making it their problem. State Farm let me pick my repair shop from their network and I dropped off my LC yesterday. Bumper and Tailgate damage is what I can see. Now I wait. I will have to pay the 250 deductible but once State Farm goes after Progressive I may get that money back. View attachment 3752485

This is why I whine every month about paying insurance. They are always such a pain.
 
This is why I whine every month about paying insurance. They are always such a pain.

This is why I pay a little extra to go with an insurance company that takes care of their customers. For help finding one call a high-end auto body shop and ask who makes their life easy.

But yes paying a company to be treated like that stings.
 
Wow, that is way low mileage after 11 year or so. Perhaps less Chevy Bolt (such an odd second car for a Land Cruiser owner...) and more LC is in place. I guess the turn side is that in say 2050, when the 200 series will likley be a collector vehicle, you will have one of the lowest mileage 200's around.
The bolt is a great compliment to the 200. It’s the opposite in many ways. For example, I can drive 130 miles for $3.50 and I can buy a 2018 with 20k miles for $17000 and don’t care if it gets destroyed by road salt and my kids.
 
In Texas, you can choose any body shop you want. The insurance company can't tell you where to go. They may recommend a shop but the final decision is yours. A quote from the Morgan Legal Group PLCC in Houston: "Yes, Texas law gives you the right to choose which body shop you have repair your vehicle. Following a car accident, you have the right to have your car repaired by a reputable shop and you have the right to pick the shop as well. The insurance company may recommend a car repair shop; however, the final decision of where you go is up to you."
 
This is why I pay a little extra to go with an insurance company that takes care of their customers. For help finding one call a high-end auto body shop and ask who makes their life easy.

But yes paying a company to be treated like that stings.
Good idea.

I have a great relationship with my local State Farm.

Most of the time anyway.

I have not had to file a claIm in years. I hope to keep it that way.
 
Sorry if I made it seem like State Farm was not helpful. State Farm tried to open the claim with Allstate but Allstate said I had to call them or person with policy. State Farm has for most part been excellent for past 30 years as carrier. Happily I have only had 2 occasions to use them. I do not want to image how much money I have paid them over that past 30 years. Part that still kind of annoys me is that driver that hit me never reported anything to Allstate, Uber or Progressive. At least when they contacted him he told truth about accident.

On a more positive note when I get the LC back it will be time for 100k service. I looking at spark plugs, accessory drive belt, coolant drain and replace, transmission fluid drain and replace, oil change 5w30, filter, tire rotation, power steering fluid replace, brake job most likely and replace fluid, was thinking of shocks but not sure on that.
 
Used Cerakote headlight restorer . The best so far. Let's see how long it lasts.


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The go-to shop in my city has learned not to do business with State Farm. They recommended Amica or Nationwide.

Maybe it’s different in other states.
 
I do not want to image how much money I have paid them over that past 30 years.
Tell me about it! I've been paying for some combination of auto insurance on two to five vehicles at a time, up to four motorcycles at a time, home, life, boat(s), and umbrella for 55 years now. And I've never made a claim in all that time other than two Honda windscreens. Just a Quick Look through Quicken shows $54k in premiums in just the past ten years...
 
Tell me about it! I've been paying for some combination of auto insurance on two to five vehicles at a time, up to four motorcycles at a time, home, life, boat(s), and umbrella for 55 years now. And I've never made a claim in all that time other than two Honda windscreens. Just a Quick Look through Quicken shows $54k in premiums in just the past ten years...
I’ve seriously considered reducing my insurance to the bare minimum except for liability, but liability is what costs a huge chunk of it anyways.
 
I need to look at this. Hopefully a higher deductible can make a difference.
It doesn’t. Mine is like $1500 right now an it might have dropped my premium $75 or something.

I could replace my cars no problem, but the issue I faced was that the insurance on the actual cars was minimal. It’s the insurance for you as the driver and the damage you could do to property or another person that costs a lot. So even if you carry no coverage on your car it barely drops the premium.
 
I have been working on my “mall crawler” build. Added a naturnest Polaris plus RTT and 270 awning today. To make this work, I removed the factory roof rails and went with the Rhino Rack vortex cross bars and mounts. Used Rhino Rack awning bracket to add the awning (had to redrill slightly). I am working on a rear platform/storage area from T-Nutz extruded aluminum (not quite done). Set power fridge is powered by a Ecoflow Delta 2 with the alternator charger. This rig will be (mostly) stock by day and very capable and off-road worthy by night.

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So I got hit in rear in Houston back on 10/11. So my LC200 was dropped off to Caliber to get repaired. It has been some what of a pain ordeal. When I got home 2 hours after accident, I live in Round Rock, I called my carrier State Farm and reported the incident. The next day State Farm called me saying that Allstate, person that hit me, Insurance and no claim was yet opened and they could not open one on my behalf. So on Monday I called Allstate and filed claim. The next day all state calls me back and informs me that Allstate will not be covering the claim as driver was in capacity as Uber driver and his insurance did not cover that. I called back State Farm and they explain how I could contact Uber to report the incident. I did that and Progressive called me as they are Insurance of record for Uber I guess. They then tell me I have to take my vehicle to one of their repair centers. I have been forced once in past to use Progressive repair and lets just say not ever doing that again. I called State Farm back explained told them I pay for full coverage and I am making it their problem. State Farm let me pick my repair shop from their network and I dropped off my LC yesterday. Bumper and Tailgate damage is what I can see. Now I wait. I will have to pay the 250 deductible but once State Farm goes after Progressive I may get that money back. View attachment 3752485
s***. What was the culprit? Pick-up truck or another SUV? Damage seems high to have been a smaller car.
 
Rear, Center and Front Diff, greased U joints and slip drive shafts. Used Supertech 75w90, with a splash of 75w140, maybe 20 %, for shear resistance and viscosity durability. Previous owner stated he had this done at 100k, I would say that he did it, based on the condition of the fluid and magnets.

I am normally a Valvoline person, but after looking toward a cheaper alternative. Especially now that Valvoline is owned by Aramco not a USA company anymore...............but I digress.

I did not remove the front diff drain plug. Very stuck and stripped.

I am sure I am not the only one to have this issue.....Does anyone have any tips on getting the front diff plug out, and is there a better replacement than the factory allen key garbage?
 
Rear, Center and Front Diff, greased U joints and slip drive shafts. Used Supertech 75w90, with a splash of 75w140, maybe 20 %, for shear resistance and viscosity durability. Previous owner stated he had this done at 100k, I would say that he did it, based on the condition of the fluid and magnets.

I am normally a Valvoline person, but after looking toward a cheaper alternative. Especially now that Valvoline is owned by Aramco not a USA company anymore...............but I digress.

I did not remove the front diff drain plug. Very stuck and stripped.

I am sure I am not the only one to have this issue.....Does anyone have any tips on getting the front diff plug out, and is there a better replacement than the factory allen key garbage?
I had to weld a nut on mine. Twice. Once when I was baselining, and once after a shop did lockers and I needed to change the run in oil. I now just run a bolt that has the nut pre-welded on.
 
I had to weld a nut on mine. Twice. Once when I was baselining, and once after a shop did lockers and I needed to change the run in oil. I now just run a bolt that has the nut pre-welded on.
I suppose you unhooked the battery when welding? Did you do anything to protect the modules or ECM?
 
Rear, Center and Front Diff, greased U joints and slip drive shafts. Used Supertech 75w90, with a splash of 75w140, maybe 20 %, for shear resistance and viscosity durability. Previous owner stated he had this done at 100k, I would say that he did it, based on the condition of the fluid and magnets.

I am normally a Valvoline person, but after looking toward a cheaper alternative. Especially now that Valvoline is owned by Aramco not a USA company anymore...............but I digress.

I did not remove the front diff drain plug. Very stuck and stripped.

I am sure I am not the only one to have this issue.....Does anyone have any tips on getting the front diff plug out, and is there a better replacement than the factory allen key garbage?
Can't remember who on here suggested it, but give the drain plug a good whack with a ball peen hammer or similar. There's a copper washer that gets stuck. I did that and it miraculously loosened.
 

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