What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (25 Viewers)

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As I’m trying to adapt to life in a 200, I found myself missing the coin pocket to ram mount conversion that I did in my 100. First world problems for sure. It took a bit of bravery on my part as a replacement bezel assembly wouldn’t be cheap if this doesn’t work out.

I removed the shifter bezel and center console assembly and drilled some holes. The forward hole lines up with an existing screw so that one was easy. Remove the self tapping screw and drill completely through the assembly. Lined up the second hole using the ram mount and found an acceptable spot for a second screw. I used some stainless steel 8-32 countersunk screws with large area washers and self locking nuts on the bottom side.

So far it appears to be very stable. I’ll take it on a dirt road run this afternoon to see if there’s any shaking going on. While it makes the seat temperature control knob a bit harder to see, it really doesn’t make it any harder to use. The hand brake clears as well.

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I did the same thing too, kind of. It worked great and never had any issues. The hardest part was drilling into the dash.

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Oil change, oem filter and Kirkland 0W-20.
Getting better at removing and reinstalling the drivers side skid plate. A cursory inspection of the underside shows my skids are putting in work which makes me happy! Also with the 33’s i don’t need to jack the truck up at all which is great.
 
Didn't take a lot of pictures but here's a few -

First, brake refresh at 45K miles. New pads and rotors all around, plus I rebuilt the rear calipers because of a sticky piston. Rears are wearing much faster than the fronts. I do live on top of a little mountain so going up and down all the time wears the brakes out - one neighbor told me he had to replace his wife's brakes after 10K. I told him to tell her to learn about downshifting. haha

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Next time around I'll probably just buy new OEM calipers. Wasn't too difficult to rebuild the rears but it is time consuming vs just swapping them out.

Next up was undercoating to get ready for the winter. I've used fluid film in a can for the last few years but was recommended this black woolwax and wanted to try it out. Used one gallon per vehicle, sprayed via compressor and gun. Got the 200 and Tundra done and still need to do the 80. Messy process but this woolwax looks like it's going to stick better and provide better coverage than fluid film.

MsHm7pZ.jpg


Looks like I raptor lined the shocks on my Tundra:

otM9VGL.jpg


After that I swapped on the winter wheels/tires and gave it a solid deep clean. Not too many pictures throughout as it was a 10+ hour process and I just wanted to get through it...

kgzYANY.jpg


I'm still perfecting my process - still have a lot to learn about detailing - but this time around I did:

- Iron remover
- Foam cannon
- Hard water stain remover
- First hand wash with dawn soap
- Clay bar
- Second hand wash with automotive soap
- Touch up paint/rock chips
- Sealant
- Wax

HgyAAkR.jpg


Every time I see a white HE I wish I would have gone that route but oh well. I will say black does clean up real nice when you put some effort into it

Aw7qiBJ.jpg
 
black looks the best when clean. But my God, it takes a lot to keep it that way. I don't know how hard your water is in UT, but there's a way you can pass your water through a softener type media in an upright cylinder to make it effectively DI water. This reduces water spots to almost nothing and helps keep your foam cannons shooting foam on your car better than a car wash! I just used mine for the first time this weekend with great results. It's a real B to setup, but once it's setup you can use it for anything you feel froggy to clean.
Didn't take a lot of pictures but here's a few -

First, brake refresh at 45K miles. New pads and rotors all around, plus I rebuilt the rear calipers because of a sticky piston. Rears are wearing much faster than the fronts. I do live on top of a little mountain so going up and down all the time wears the brakes out - one neighbor told me he had to replace his wife's brakes after 10K. I told him to tell her to learn about downshifting. haha

Q34NiqQ.jpg


Next time around I'll probably just buy new OEM calipers. Wasn't too difficult to rebuild the rears but it is time consuming vs just swapping them out.

Next up was undercoating to get ready for the winter. I've used fluid film in a can for the last few years but was recommended this black woolwax and wanted to try it out. Used one gallon per vehicle, sprayed via compressor and gun. Got the 200 and Tundra done and still need to do the 80. Messy process but this woolwax looks like it's going to stick better and provide better coverage than fluid film.

MsHm7pZ.jpg


Looks like I raptor lined the shocks on my Tundra:

otM9VGL.jpg


After that I swapped on the winter wheels/tires and gave it a solid deep clean. Not too many pictures throughout as it was a 10+ hour process and I just wanted to get through it...

kgzYANY.jpg


I'm still perfecting my process - still have a lot to learn about detailing - but this time around I did:

- Iron remover
- Foam cannon
- Hard water stain remover
- First hand wash with dawn soap
- Clay bar
- Second hand wash with automotive soap
- Touch up paint/rock chips
- Sealant
- Wax

HgyAAkR.jpg


Every time I see a white HE I wish I would have gone that route but oh well. I will say black does clean up real nice when you put some effort into it

Aw7qiBJ.jpg
 
black looks the best when clean. But my God, it takes a lot to keep it that way. I don't know how hard your water is in UT, but there's a way you can pass your water through a softener type media in an upright cylinder to make it effectively DI water. This reduces water spots to almost nothing and helps keep your foam cannons shooting foam on your car better than a car wash! I just used mine for the first time this weekend with great results. It's a real B to setup, but once it's setup you can use it for anything you feel froggy to clean.
Nice, yeah the water is hard here. I need something like that - got a link?
 
Hey all, i picked up a 2009 200 and have been contemplating a drawer/ sleeping platform option. The adgu is sweet but.. im thinking of easily removable storage bins that would be equal height to the folded down middle row. Third row has been removed.
Something like these outdoor crates in the base camp series seem doable?
They are 12" tall and should be close to the folded down middle row.
Throw em in when needed with an exped on top?
 
Hey all, i picked up a 2009 200 and have been contemplating a drawer/ sleeping platform option. The adgu is sweet but.. im thinking of easily removable storage bins that would be equal height to the folded down middle row. Third row has been removed.
Something like these outdoor crates in the base camp series seem doable?
They are 12" tall and should be close to the folded down middle row.
Throw em in when needed with an exped on top?
I’d be surprised if that was strong enough or wide enough to comfortably lie on. They are only 14” wide, I guess you’d be considering trying to clamp 2 together?

I’d consider building a cheap platform with a 2x4 frame and a piece of 3/4 ply wood. Others have had success with that. Or mimic the ADGU and use some 8020 for the frame. That stuff is getting cheap on Amazon.
 
Nice, yeah the water is hard here. I need something like that - got a link?
Not cheap. But it does go on sale occasionally. I think I can get around 800 gallons through it before I need to replace the media.

 
Hey all, i picked up a 2009 200 and have been contemplating a drawer/ sleeping platform option. The adgu is sweet but.. im thinking of easily removable storage bins that would be equal height to the folded down middle row. Third row has been removed.
Something like these outdoor crates in the base camp series seem doable?
They are 12" tall and should be close to the folded down middle row.
Throw em in when needed with an exped on top?
In my experience crates make a poor platform for sleeping. And width wise, you will want to use the 60% fold down portion of the seat back. Cut some heavy plywood so that the outer edge conforms to the inside wall of the vehicle. I used plywood panels for support partitions that enabled storing bins etc. design it so it’s easily removable.
 
there's a way you can pass your water through a softener type media in an upright cylinder to make it effectively DI water. This reduces water spots to almost nothing and helps keep your foam cannons shooting foam on your car better than a car wash! I just used mine for the first time this weekend with great results. It's a real B to setup, but once it's setup you can use it for anything you feel froggy to clean.

I have a CR Spotless DI-120 system and it's actually quite easy to use..

I generally only use it for the final rinse to extend resin life. (Think of resin as the filter to remove the dissolved mineralsin these systems.) I do the washing with tap water and take care not to let any surfaces dry while I'm actively washing, but then switch to the spotless system and rinse thoroughly at the end. Then a leaf blower to remove most of what's sitting, back into the garage, and I can let it air dry without any detectable spots.

Also for the record I generally don't mess with all of this on my white cruiser. But my daily is dark and still has good paint, I want to keep it that way.
 
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Anybody have one of these in the 200?
Basic platform without the boxes to be level with the folded down second row. To create an exped platform.

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