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Ah! My apologies, I’m not electrically inclined, so to speak. I see now. So testing the wires at the starter should be able to tell me that, right?
Well the only reason I asked that question is because one of my door locks is broke, and Lexus wants $350 for ONE new one. And I think the PS side might be broke too. But I’m thinking my ignition had already been switch before cause even the tailgate when I try to turn with the key, won’t. So it’d be cheaper to go with Toyota if all my door locks need to be replaced lolTechnically yes but let's make sure you rule out the ign switch first. If you're indeed getting click click click on a consistent basis, then perhaps you need to do something like the link above shows. Someone above simply bought a Painless wiring hot shot kit and had his mechanic install it in order to fix the click click click issue.
Mine was more like behind the climate controls. Remove the dashboard kick panel under the steering column and look at what you've got. I think some of the dealer/port-installed alarms were installed using nice wiring harnesses that sandwiched in between the vehicle wiring harness plugs. Mine was installed in the more traditional way: cut the wire, crimp on extensions, and run them to a relay.The relay for the kill-relay, would that be under the dash by your left knee? That little panel.
Yes. And you're right, people are using solenoids when they should be using relays.Is adding a solenoid more common than I think it is?
There's a recent thread on lock interchangeability. I believe you can buy an entire lock set from Partsouq or Amayama, but the rear liftgate lock won't work for US rigs.Well the only reason I asked that question is because one of my door locks is broke, and Lexus wants $350 for ONE new one. And I think the PS side might be broke too. But I’m thinking my ignition had already been switch before cause even the tailgate when I try to turn with the key, won’t. So it’d be cheaper to go with Toyota if all my door locks need to be replaced lol
In general, wire does not increase in resistance due to age. The connections can corrode and fatigue due to age and contamination.Our wires are tired and not able to handle the typical starting current that the aging starter solenoid requires.
Ah okay, thank you for letting me know that. Gives me more of an idea where things "should" be or might be. Thanks for that thread too.Mine was more like behind the climate controls. Remove the dashboard kick panel under the steering column and look at what you've got. I think some of the dealer/port-installed alarms were installed using nice wiring harnesses that sandwiched in between the vehicle wiring harness plugs. Mine was installed in the more traditional way: cut the wire, crimp on extensions, and run them to a relay.
That would be great if so. Because I might have to because Lexus wants $350+ for one door lock cylinder. Don't really wanna pay that much. Not to keep repeating myself. But if I replace with new Toyota one, that means new ignition switch.There's a recent thread on lock interchangeability. I believe you can buy an entire lock set from Partsouq or Amayama, but the rear liftgate lock won't work for US rigs.
Thank you, I will try to diagnose this tomorrow after work.In general, wire does not increase in resistance due to age. The connections can corrode and fatigue due to age and contamination.
The starter solenoid is a logic path, and is typically low current. The high current side is the direct connection between the battery and the starter motor contact.
The starter logic path is very simple on these trucks and is easily diagnosed.
The starter logic path is as follows: Battery +, fusible link AM1, fuse AM1, ignition switch, neutral start switch, starter.Thank you, I will try to diagnose this tomorrow after work.
Is this red circular thing part of what you removed for the alarm? I don’t see any wires going through the firewall. I think some of it has been removed already.I removed my alarm first thing, there was plugs and splices that had to be removed. First pic is what was under the hood. Then the brain rest was under the seat, in the kick panel and under the dash. Pulled the seat, and lower dash and kick panel out.
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I think so too, I looked up the company and saw they made beepers for cars. Took that out too. So far it’s been ripped out for a few hours and hasn’t not started.The red circular thing looks like a piezoelectric beeper for the alarm. It's not OEM.
YesIs this red circular thing part of what you removed for the alarm? I don’t see any wires going through the firewall. I think some of it has been removed already.
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