Intermittent Starting Problems

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StaticTorque

StaticTorque

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As of lately my LC has been temperamental when it comes to starting. Id turn the key, get all my lights would turn on, radio worked, everything would work. But it wouldn't try to turnover. So everyone had thought my starter was bad. And it did seem like the starter was going out. So I pulled the old one out, which ended up being a 1.4kw starter... So I put in a new reman Denso 2.0kw from RockAuto. Seemed to have fixed my problem... Well a week later today I just filled up with gas, and I went to go start it, and it did the exact same thing.

Right now I'm kind of lost on what it could be. I know that the factory alarm system tends to cause major problems after the years its been in my LX. But during the time it wouldn't start, I went under the driver seat and unplugged all 3 connectors to the alarm brain. Went to go try again, and same results. The only other lead I have is checking all the grounds in the engine bay. The motor was replaced before I bought it, but had a few K's on it after I bought it.

Any leads or ideas I should read up on or try, please let me know down below.

Is there a wiring diagram I can look at to try and chase down all the ground wires? Would it be in the FSM here on Mud? Or do I need to go to like Partsouq and look around on their site?

Thank you Mud users for all your continued help and support. :cheers:
 
WCBlueSky

WCBlueSky

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Will it start in Neutral when it won't start in Park? Could be the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS).

 
StaticTorque

StaticTorque

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Will it start in Neutral when it won't start in Park? Could be the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS).

No it will not. I just tried this when I was sitting at home after I tried unplugging the Alarm system. The transfer still being in H wouldn't matter correct? I also forgot to mention I put a jump pack on and it didn't change the outcome or anything else.
 
M

Mjones

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I have an old security system that I think may be causing a very similar scenario on mine. I don't use the security system (a remote that chirps horn once when arming and twice for disarming). I also have a hidden button/switch mounted below the bottom of the steering column between some molding and the fuse panel. For years I never even noticed this button being present until pulling the dash when replacing the stereo system. Since I don't use the alarm system I figured it was some valet button.

But this past year I'm getting intermittent 'won't start' symptoms similar to yours. I beleive the security system is related. It's becoming more frequent and annoying. I've discovered that when I want to leave the car in a dead mode I can press the kill switch once and it won't start. Press is again and can get it to start.

What's happening in the last year is it's intermittently simply not starting. I can fiddle with the switch and get it started after holding it 3 second or some sequence of presses. It's happening enough I need to rip out the entire alarm system but not sure how to make sure I get all of it out and back to original.

I'll dig into mine at some point and report back if I can make any improvements.
 
StaticTorque

StaticTorque

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So I went to go check my grounds that I could find off the FSM. Haven't found much but here's what I found. They all look good to me?
TempImage6aUlHH


TempImageZn73Ie


TempImageuuDAIs


TempImageESeDL4
 
BILT4ME

BILT4ME

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As of lately my LC has been temperamental when it comes to starting. Id turn the key, get all my lights would turn on, radio worked, everything would work. But it wouldn't try to turnover. So everyone had thought my starter was bad. And it did seem like the starter was going out. So I pulled the old one out, which ended up being a 1.4kw starter... So I put in a new reman Denso 2.0kw from RockAuto. Seemed to have fixed my problem... Well a week later today I just filled up with gas, and I went to go start it, and it did the exact same thing.

Right now I'm kind of lost on what it could be. I know that the factory alarm system tends to cause major problems after the years its been in my LX. But during the time it wouldn't start, I went under the driver seat and unplugged all 3 connectors to the alarm brain. Went to go try again, and same results. The only other lead I have is checking all the grounds in the engine bay. The motor was replaced before I bought it, but had a few K's on it after I bought it.

Any leads or ideas I should read up on or try, please let me know down below.

Is there a wiring diagram I can look at to try and chase down all the ground wires? Would it be in the FSM here on Mud? Or do I need to go to like Partsouq and look around on their site?

Thank you Mud users for all your continued help and support. :cheers:
Unplugging the alarm just under the seat will not "bypass" the alarm. It definitely will not start if you unplug it like that.
You must completely remove and replug the entire harness to get it out of the system.

I would also consider the battery cable connections, cables, and fusible links.

Also check the plug on the top of the distributor.
 
StaticTorque

StaticTorque

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I have an old security system that I think may be causing a very similar scenario on mine. I don't use the security system (a remote that chirps horn once when arming and twice for disarming). I also have a hidden button/switch mounted below the bottom of the steering column between some molding and the fuse panel. For years I never even noticed this button being present until pulling the dash when replacing the stereo system. Since I don't use the alarm system I figured it was some valet button.

But this past year I'm getting intermittent 'won't start' symptoms similar to yours. I beleive the security system is related. It's becoming more frequent and annoying. I've discovered that when I want to leave the car in a dead mode I can press the kill switch once and it won't start. Press is again and can get it to start.

What's happening in the last year is it's intermittently simply not starting. I can fiddle with the switch and get it started after holding it 3 second or some sequence of presses. It's happening enough I need to rip out the entire alarm system but not sure how to make sure I get all of it out and back to original.

I'll dig into mine at some point and report back if I can make any improvements.
I have the original alarm system in there. I feel like I've eliminated the alarm being the problem because I unplugged the brain...? But maybe since I did that, THAT also made it not start. I don't have any kind of kill switch installed or anything along those lines. Plan on putting aftermarket Alarm and remote start system in it.
 
ARFCOM15

ARFCOM15

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Agree with @BILT4ME - previous owner of my LC put in a direct start button because of a failing alarm. I removed the alarm and it no longer needs the direct start. Alarm first if you suspect that and then start on the basics.
 
StaticTorque

StaticTorque

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Unplugging the alarm just under the seat will not "bypass" the alarm. It definitely will not start if you unplug it like that.
You must completely remove and replug the entire harness to get it out of the system.

I would also consider the battery cable connections, cables, and fusible links.

Also check the plug on the top of the distributor.
Welp.. I didn't see this before I replied to @Mjones lol Replug the harness? What do you mean by that? Sounds like you just reinstall it to me. I'm a noob so bare with me here lol. I'm going to get the battery tested after work tomorrow if it will start. I have a couple spare fusible links so I might try and swap that out too. Wouldn't hurt.
 
BILT4ME

BILT4ME

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Welp.. I didn't see this before I replied to @Mjones lol Replug the harness? What do you mean by that? Sounds like you just reinstall it to me. I'm a noob so bare with me here lol. I'm going to get the battery tested after work tomorrow if it will start. I have a couple spare fusible links so I might try and swap that out too. Wouldn't hurt.
The alarm harness is a plug-n-play setup that is literally plugged into the factory harness in between standard plugs for the system.

Start under the seat, unplug each plug, then plug the two now loose ends into each other, then move to the next plug in the harness and do the same until the entire harness is out and the factory harness is plugged back into itself.

Every plug is different so you cannot cross-plug the system. It took me about two hours of serious digging to completely remove mine. I pulled the driver's seat to make it all easier.
 
StaticTorque

StaticTorque

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The alarm harness is a plug-n-play setup that is literally plugged into the factory harness in between standard plugs for the system.

Start under the seat, unplug each plug, then plug the two now loose ends into each other, then move to the next plug in the harness and do the same until the entire harness is out and the factory harness is plugged back into itself.

Every plug is different so you cannot cross-plug the system. It took me about two hours of serious digging to completely remove mine. I pulled the driver's seat to make it all easier.
Oh! okay! I think I get what you mean now. Doesn't sound as complicated as I thought. Thank you, I will be giving this a try.
 
StaticTorque

StaticTorque

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If I remove the whole alarm system, which I’m assuming is that RS3000, will I still be able to lock my doors by turning the key in the door?
 
jonheld

jonheld

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Is there a wiring diagram I can look at to try and chase down all the ground wires? Would it be in the FSM here on Mud? Or do I need to go to like Partsouq and look around on their site?
All the information on every single system is explained in detail in the FSM and EWD, which you can download free-fer-nothin in the resources section.
 
BILT4ME

BILT4ME

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If I remove the whole alarm system, which I’m assuming is that RS3000, will I still be able to lock my doors by turning the key in the door?
Yes.

One twist in the DS door will open the driver door only. Two twists will open all.
One twist in the passenger door opens all.

At least that's the way it's SUPPOSED to work.
 
MoJ

MoJ

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Not all of the dealer/port installed (what some call “factory”) alarms are completely plug and play. Be prepared to fix some splices.
 
PZLCruiser

PZLCruiser

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I immediately thought ground wires. Double check your grounds. One on the trans too. Might look good on the ends but bad further in the wire. Some one here on mud sells a good kit.
 
Rusty Marlin

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Have you done any recent electrical work were you pulled the terminals off the battery?
I went through this earlier this summer after installing my winch. Turned out the main power cable for the winch was rotated just right (wrong) and was preventing the positive post from seating all the way. It was tight when wiggled, but wasn't right. My son noticed it after we were cleaning the battery. I tried to start the rig and the water in the gap around the terminal steamed off. Felt like a total DOOFUSS, but everything is good now.
 
MoJ

MoJ

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Any particular year ranges or different ports?
No idea. I’ve never ran across one or read about one that was not spliced or tapped. All three of my 80’s had sketchy taps…like shockingly bad. The two I’ve helped friends with removing were the same. Years spanning 93-97.
 
BILT4ME

BILT4ME

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No idea. I’ve never ran across one or read about one that was not spliced or tapped. All three of my 80’s had sketchy taps…like shockingly bad. The two I’ve helped friends with removing were the same. Years spanning 93-97.
My 96 was clean as a whistle. Literally unplug about 6 plugs, plug them back together.

I traced one wire that was very neatly ran across the under dash, then across the console and over the glove box. Turns out it was just the gray antenna wire with no termination. I could have either cut it off or yanked on it to get it out, but I dissected my entire dash to surgically remove it.
 

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