Intermittent Starting Problems (1 Viewer)

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Just install the solenoid and be done with it. As was mentioned above, it's an aging wire harness that is causing your problem. Been there, done that and haven't had an issue since.
 
Ah! My apologies, I’m not electrically inclined, so to speak. I see now. So testing the wires at the starter should be able to tell me that, right?

Technically yes but let's make sure you rule out the ign switch first. If you're indeed getting click click click on a consistent basis, then perhaps you need to do something like the link above shows. Someone above simply bought a Painless wiring hot shot kit and had his mechanic install it in order to fix the click click click issue.
 
Technically yes but let's make sure you rule out the ign switch first. If you're indeed getting click click click on a consistent basis, then perhaps you need to do something like the link above shows. Someone above simply bought a Painless wiring hot shot kit and had his mechanic install it in order to fix the click click click issue.
Well the only reason I asked that question is because one of my door locks is broke, and Lexus wants $350 for ONE new one. And I think the PS side might be broke too. But I’m thinking my ignition had already been switch before cause even the tailgate when I try to turn with the key, won’t. So it’d be cheaper to go with Toyota if all my door locks need to be replaced lol
 
The relay for the kill-relay, would that be under the dash by your left knee? That little panel.
Mine was more like behind the climate controls. Remove the dashboard kick panel under the steering column and look at what you've got. I think some of the dealer/port-installed alarms were installed using nice wiring harnesses that sandwiched in between the vehicle wiring harness plugs. Mine was installed in the more traditional way: cut the wire, crimp on extensions, and run them to a relay.

You're looking for something like what's shown in this thread:

Is adding a solenoid more common than I think it is?
Yes. And you're right, people are using solenoids when they should be using relays.

Personally, I clean every connector I come across with De-Oxit, then I pack them with silicone dielectric grease. In my opinion, the stock configuration is fine if you take care of any corrosion. Eventually, I suppose the wiring itself will begin corroding, but I don't live at the beach and this isn't a GM product, so it hasn't been a problem.
 
Well the only reason I asked that question is because one of my door locks is broke, and Lexus wants $350 for ONE new one. And I think the PS side might be broke too. But I’m thinking my ignition had already been switch before cause even the tailgate when I try to turn with the key, won’t. So it’d be cheaper to go with Toyota if all my door locks need to be replaced lol
There's a recent thread on lock interchangeability. I believe you can buy an entire lock set from Partsouq or Amayama, but the rear liftgate lock won't work for US rigs.
 
Our wires are tired and not able to handle the typical starting current that the aging starter solenoid requires.
In general, wire does not increase in resistance due to age. The connections can corrode and fatigue due to age and contamination.

The starter solenoid is a logic path, and is typically low current. The high current side is the direct connection between the battery and the starter motor contact.

The starter logic path is very simple on these trucks and is easily diagnosed.
 
Mine was more like behind the climate controls. Remove the dashboard kick panel under the steering column and look at what you've got. I think some of the dealer/port-installed alarms were installed using nice wiring harnesses that sandwiched in between the vehicle wiring harness plugs. Mine was installed in the more traditional way: cut the wire, crimp on extensions, and run them to a relay.
Ah okay, thank you for letting me know that. Gives me more of an idea where things "should" be or might be. Thanks for that thread too.
There's a recent thread on lock interchangeability. I believe you can buy an entire lock set from Partsouq or Amayama, but the rear liftgate lock won't work for US rigs.
That would be great if so. Because I might have to because Lexus wants $350+ for one door lock cylinder. Don't really wanna pay that much. Not to keep repeating myself. But if I replace with new Toyota one, that means new ignition switch.
In general, wire does not increase in resistance due to age. The connections can corrode and fatigue due to age and contamination.

The starter solenoid is a logic path, and is typically low current. The high current side is the direct connection between the battery and the starter motor contact.

The starter logic path is very simple on these trucks and is easily diagnosed.
Thank you, I will try to diagnose this tomorrow after work.
 
I used something like this and never replaced the ignition module.
AA71E6E3-5478-41D6-9E77-BD9CCD0926F0.jpeg

the ignition module is wired to trigger this.
I don’t remember the part number as there are lots of variations in duty and amper. I wanna say I used an intermittant duty type? I have another continuous duty type running my air compressors
 
Thank you, I will try to diagnose this tomorrow after work.
The starter logic path is as follows: Battery +, fusible link AM1, fuse AM1, ignition switch, neutral start switch, starter.
The load side of the starter motor contact is a direct connection to the battery positive terminal.
The RS3000 alarm interrupts the logic path between the ignition switch and the NSS with a simple relay closure.
The starter ground path both for logic and load is through the case that's mounted to the bellhousing.
 
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I made my own "hot shot" relay. No more issues since doing that. I also have a short jumper i can easily connect straight to battery to start in a pinch. I had most of the material on hand, so i was out $10 total. No problems since.

 
I removed my alarm first thing, there was plugs and splices that had to be removed. First pic is what was under the hood. Then the brain rest was under the seat, in the kick panel and under the dash. Pulled the seat, and lower dash and kick panel out.

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Is this red circular thing part of what you removed for the alarm? I don’t see any wires going through the firewall. I think some of it has been removed already.

AF6DC152-7587-4D61-B7FC-8E20C4F8764C.jpeg
 
The red circular thing looks like a piezoelectric beeper for the alarm. It's not OEM.
I think so too, I looked up the company and saw they made beepers for cars. Took that out too. So far it’s been ripped out for a few hours and hasn’t not started.
 

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