Does anyone know the part number for the green coolant temperature sensor connector? I damaged it I'd like to replace it before it completely fails.
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Procedure for replacing 100 series(98 and up) starter contacts (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter rph74
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8942220010 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor: 1998/01-2000/04
9043012005 - Gasket
Edit: @flintknapper raises a good question. On second read it looks like you're wanting the connector part number, in which case you'll need the part below.
9098011062 - Connector
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Are you looking for the sensor itself....or just the connector (off the wiring to it)?
Welp, guess it's good I ordered all the rebuild parts, because starter would kick in yesterday. Was parked deep in snow over gravel, down a long access road to trails to go XC skiing. Hit it a few time with some long socket extensions and a ball peen and it fired right up.
I just installed a fresh battery, but it had been starting hard the last 2 weeks. I was lying to myself and saying it was just all the cold snowy weather and not driving, but I knew the starter was going.
Got the old reman starter out. It was full of carbon, all the seals dried out, bearings shot, grease all caked up. Stripped a screw when trying to access the gears. Bought all the parts to rebuild, but ordered a reman from my local dealer this morning, fearing it would be more than just replacing the contacts.
Injectors going out tomorrow for service.
Injectors going out tomorrow for service.
Found much the same when I removed mine. And THIS is exactly why I buck against those who 'parrot': "All it needs is contacts"
Or with the alternator: "Just put brushes in it".
You DON'T know until you tear it down....what it really needs.
Like you....I bought a replacement starter, THEN rebuilt the old for a spare and actually carry it IN the vehicle.
Good job Sir.
After you rebuild be SURE to 'bench test' your work.
I agree. Already did that dance with my alternator and new brushes, only to pull it and replace when it died.
The bearings are shot on my armature and my clutch; I could try to pull and replace, or clean and repack in situ, but there is still wear on my clutch gears and a seal that doesnt seem like there is a replacement for. I stripped the screws holding in the clutch and idle gear, even with an impact screw driver and a PH3 bit. I tried some Vicegrips on the tip of the screw, but no luck. I didn't want to mangle too much of I was going to return for the core refund.
So I'd have to do some real work to get the stripped screws out, spend a few bucks on new hardware and bearing, to rebuild a worn starter that's a reman from 2009. At that point I'm at around $60 in new parts to rebuild my starter and out the $60 core charge from my dealer. So that's more than the $111.72 for a Toyota reman from my dealer. I'm just gonna button up my old one and drop it off for the core refund.
BTW, ordered parts yesterday and just got an email that they are at my dealer, starter included. Conicelli Toyota has some of the best pricing around via their online store and 15 mins from my house. I have another dealer 5 mins from me, but they charge tombstone (double retail) pricing and no online store.
If anyone want my parts for a rebuild (plunger, terminal kits, gaskets, breathers) I'd gladly ship them for free, for what I paid from Partsouq.
Just wanted to give my thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread. This job kicked my ass more than it should have but was able to get it all done with y'alls help.
Got my truck all buttoned up and running last night in my barn. Need to take it for a test drive this morning. Getting the starter mounting bolts in and out was a pain. I removed the hood struts and ratchet strapped the hood to the joists in my barn, so I could lean over/climb in my engine bay. Hardest part for me was replacing the broken/cracked connectors for the injectors. The plastic that locks in each pin does not want to release. Even with the @NLXTACY pin tool, the plastic catch hardly moved. Replaced 4 and had to destroy 3 to get the pins out. Ended with putting my hooked dental pick through my finger and out the other side.
Split my intake manifold and soaked up all the oil with shop towels and then a full scrub with a mix of brushes, Scotchbrite, and a few cans of intake cleaner. Full soapy scrub down with dish soap, before a super hot bath, and compressed air dry. Full spa treatment. Figured I was in there, so clean it out. Way easier than diesels I've owned. Makes me wish I had a full size parts washer for car and bicycle parts.
Got my injectors back from Chuck at FIS and they were in good shape. I already had all the seals I purchased a while ago and that was probably all I needed. Getting them cleaned and tested was a nice piece of mind though. I spent probably an hour trying to get my connector to snap into my #6 injector. Though I replaced the connector wrong or bent a pin. Found the little triangular nub that the connector snaps on to is worn off. I probably broke it off when trying to remove the frozen on connector. I really don't want to take everything apart again, so I'll keep an eye on it. The connectors friction fit on the injectors will with the rubber seal inside them, so I dont think it will move.
All the wealth of experience on this forum and sharing is wonderful. I probably would have tackled this anyway, but after reading everything here I felt like I could do most of this like I'd done it a million times before. The tips of cleaning the engine before hand, vacuum hose mods for cleaning the nooks and crannies, what NOT to do, removing hood struts to gain more access, and little tricks made it an easy task. Granted I took two weeks to do this, between waiting on injectors, ordering extra parts I forgot, and my job and family. If a was doing it again & had all parts ready to go, I would say a full day to perform all the labor I undertook. Typical 100 series job: time consuming and many little unexpected things pop up along the way, but not overly technical.
Split my intake manifold and soaked up all the oil with shop towels and then a full scrub with a mix of brushes, Scotchbrite, and a few cans of intake cleaner. Full soapy scrub down with dish soap, before a super hot bath, and compressed air dry. Full spa treatment. Figured I was in there, so clean it out. Way easier than diesels I've owned. Makes me wish I had a full size parts washer for car and bicycle parts.
Got my injectors back from Chuck at FIS and they were in good shape. I already had all the seals I purchased a while ago and that was probably all I needed. Getting them cleaned and tested was a nice piece of mind though. I spent probably an hour trying to get my connector to snap into my #6 injector. Though I replaced the connector wrong or bent a pin. Found the little triangular nub that the connector snaps on to is worn off. I probably broke it off when trying to remove the frozen on connector. I really don't want to take everything apart again, so I'll keep an eye on it. The connectors friction fit on the injectors will with the rubber seal inside them, so I dont think it will move.
All the wealth of experience on this forum and sharing is wonderful. I probably would have tackled this anyway, but after reading everything here I felt like I could do most of this like I'd done it a million times before. The tips of cleaning the engine before hand, vacuum hose mods for cleaning the nooks and crannies, what NOT to do, removing hood struts to gain more access, and little tricks made it an easy task. Granted I took two weeks to do this, between waiting on injectors, ordering extra parts I forgot, and my job and family. If a was doing it again & had all parts ready to go, I would say a full day to perform all the labor I undertook. Typical 100 series job: time consuming and many little unexpected things pop up along the way, but not overly technical.
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
You should find a new dentist.
First, just want to say thanks to everyone for all the info here! I started today and things were going really smooth until the actual removal of the manifold. It lifts up on all sides but seems to get stuck on the rear passenger side stud. The guy helping me is a really experienced mechanic and we could not get it to come off. I attached a picture, but we're at a loss. We've tried every angle possible. It feels like we're missing something, but it's completely lose all the way around. It looks like the hole is too small to go over the stud or something, but that wouldn't make any sense. Any input would be appreciated! It was so frustrating that doing the timing belt was the easiest part of the day!
Make sure the small bolt holding wire harness housing on drive side, is out. Then push wire housing back ~ 1" to get out of the way. Then lift out intake manifold (IM). IM is tight and heavy, so workout gently. If IM get hung up on engine hoist hooks, bend the hooks outward a little.
Super important:
But before removing IM. Put nuts and bolts back in on each side and tighteen. Then blow off dirt from both sides of IM.
I wash with power washer, than blowing with air while wet engine running. Than blow off again once dry, and again before removing nuts and bolts. You can't be to clean here.
I make sure when assembling. To vacuum out each head intake port, of every grain of sand. I get up on engine with flashlight, and shop vac. I get every speck, I can out of intake ports.
Removal of intake manifold is the number one cause of bad compression. WHY! dust/sand getting into intake ports, due to lack of cleaning before removal and before assembly. This sand then enters the combustion chambers and damage rings and cylinder walls.
Super important:
But before removing IM. Put nuts and bolts back in on each side and tighteen. Then blow off dirt from both sides of IM.
I wash with power washer, than blowing with air while wet engine running. Than blow off again once dry, and again before removing nuts and bolts. You can't be to clean here.
I make sure when assembling. To vacuum out each head intake port, of every grain of sand. I get up on engine with flashlight, and shop vac. I get every speck, I can out of intake ports.
Removal of intake manifold is the number one cause of bad compression. WHY! dust/sand getting into intake ports, due to lack of cleaning before removal and before assembly. This sand then enters the combustion chambers and damage rings and cylinder walls.
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Thanks! I did remove that bolt for the wiring harness. It's also not getting caught on the engine hooks, that's why it's so confusing, it doesn't seem like it's caught on anything! It just stops right at the top of the stud. That's a good reminder about cleaning, I did before but that was when I first started before all the trouble.
Well we finally got it. The stud was bent so we just removed it and have another one on the way. After finally getting the starter out it seems like it was l for nothing! I took it to get tested and they said it engages but is really low voltage. My problem originally is that I turned the key and nothing happened. The lights and accessories came on but that's it. No crank, no noise, nothing. It is moving fuel, so its not that. All the fuses have power, so that's why we thought maybe the starter. So if anyone has an idea I'm all ears! I'm going to get the alternator checked tomorrow. Unfortunately it seems like some electrical problem that isn't going to be easy to find.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
This thread seems like the definitive source for help when replacing the 100 series starter!
Thanks to all who contributed before me.
I had the pleasure of doing this on my '99 LX - 208k on the clock.
It looks like the original pictures in this thread have come and gone a few times. I really benefit from pictures - sometimes they are worth a 1000 words! So I took a few to add here, on the chance they can help others...
I did not take pictures of first steps. Since my LX has working AHC suspension, I set the height to L, then disconnected the battery. Then I bled the front tires down to 10 PSI. This made the engine compartment more accessible.
Thanks to all who contributed before me.
I had the pleasure of doing this on my '99 LX - 208k on the clock.
It looks like the original pictures in this thread have come and gone a few times. I really benefit from pictures - sometimes they are worth a 1000 words! So I took a few to add here, on the chance they can help others...
I did not take pictures of first steps. Since my LX has working AHC suspension, I set the height to L, then disconnected the battery. Then I bled the front tires down to 10 PSI. This made the engine compartment more accessible.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
I removed the air handling assembly from the passenger fender to the throttle body. That is a good place to sit in and remove the intake and then start messing with the starter.
I took pictures of disconnecting all the various hoses, no need to post those I don't think.
I really appreciate how easy it was to reach down and loosen the fasteners on the actual intake. I ran my telescopic magnet in next to the 12mm socket so I could retrieve fasteners before they fell into the Valley of Darkness...
I took pictures of disconnecting all the various hoses, no need to post those I don't think.
I really appreciate how easy it was to reach down and loosen the fasteners on the actual intake. I ran my telescopic magnet in next to the 12mm socket so I could retrieve fasteners before they fell into the Valley of Darkness...
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
I did have the quick disconnect for the ground wire at the back of the intake:
