Procedure for replacing 100 series(98 and up) starter contacts (2 Viewers)

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Sorry @sleepgsr not trying to "down" you. But this may helps those that follow you.

First ditch the K&N air box. Get OEM back in there. They do much better job of filtering and metering air intake.

Number one mistake a DIY or even some shops often make. Not cleaning top of engine first.

I clean the top of engine first thing; Between intake manifold and heads. I do this with high pressure water and/or HP air. I wash engine with front higher than rear, so water drains out rear of block (engine valley drains).Then run engine to dry. We do not want any foreign objects (dust, dirty, grim, sand, leaves, etc) dropping into intake ports of heads. This is #1 cause of engine compression lose and/or smoking in the 2UZ-fe.

Next I relieve fuel pressure and then disconnect negative post of battery (first).

Personally I do not pull the fuel dampener off the fuel rail. I'd just need more seal/washers gasket of two types, if done. I remove fuel line from fuel filter.

Using blue tape and FIPG on starter wires not good. Replace the clips if broken, Toyota sell them. If that was the hot lead (+) which is in a plastic housing with cap, will be a pain. I heard "hopefully has to never come back out". Next guy's doing job, is going the have fun & words...LOL

Trick is to detach and attach (+) wire lug and nut as starter pulled or inserted, but not all the way out or in. Starter rolls into position. You can do the 12mm bolt at same time.

A very big mistake. You did not (show) cleaning gaskets surfaces (heads & intake). Reusing any gasket is never done. That is asking for vacuum leak. Best too vacuum out paper towels from intake ports of heads and then ports themselves. Do this after cleaning gasket surface, while paper towel still in place. Shop towels work well, as they're lint free. You do not want even lint getting on cylinder walls.

I'd replace:
Replace intake gaskets.
Replace throttle body gasket.
Replace fuel damper gaskets, if removed.
Use a torque wrench.

This is not and engine I'd want!
 
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Thanks! - The clip that was broken was the signal wire, not the + lead
Using blue tape and FIPG on starter wires not good. Replace the clips if broken, Toyota sell them. That was the hot lead (+) which is in a plastic housing with cap. I heard "hopefully has to never come back out". Next guy's doing job, is going the have fun & words...LOL

Trick is to detach and attach (+) wire lug and nut as starter pulled or inserted, but not all the way out or in. Starter rolls into position. You can do the 12mm bolt at same time.
 
Has this happened to anyone?
I've followed the OPs instructions and they worked great, up until removal of the starter. When I tried to pull the starter out, it was frozen in the block. The PO didn't put never-seize around the shroud. I tried liquid wrench buy to no avail.
Finally I got a pry bar and was able to pry it off but I ended up cracking the starter and leaving the shroud, that covers the gear, stuck in the mounting hole.
It seems to be made of aluminum. Does anyone have any tips to get it out? Heat? Dremel? Sawzall?
 
So to be clear. A part of the starters gear box housing is frozen in the blocks starter mounting hole to flex plate. That you have both securing bolts out and no remains on the face of block, just in the hole?

Does seem there was a case of stuck start reported in the forum. You'll need to use search!

I've never heard of anyone adding anti-seize to starter housing. But in your neck of the woods, I suppose not a bad idea. Especially if block drains become blocked and water sit in valley.

Penetrating oil, heat and chisel may be your friends here. If using a torch (open flame), be sure to shield off flame and have fire extinguisher handy. Induction coil may be better option for heat source. Those with proper attachment are said to be great at directing heat and fast. The cast-iron block and aluminium parts will expand at different rates, and break loose. Then get out the chisel. Be like a surgeon and don't go nuts on the block. Last thing you'd want is a busted block.

Use care to not get pieces in between engine and flex plate or in bell housing. Clean out any you do, from lower inspection plate.
 
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So to be clear. A part of the starters gear box housing is frozen in the blocks starter mounting hole to flex plate. That you have both securing bolts out and no remains on the face of block, just in the hole?

Correct, bolts are out. There are some remains of the aluminum from the starter on the face of the block, but nothing enough to grab and pull out, 95% of whats left is in the hole.

I've been using a pneumatic chisel but haven't had much luck. I'll send pics for clarity after the weekend, I can't get back to it til next week, I'll try heat then.

Thanks for the response.
 
I'd keep soaking in the meantime!

You may end up grinding out. You could then remove lower inspection cover and flush debris, with a water hose from above before & after blowing with HP air. Just try to run ASAP, to fling of moisture from flexplate and TC.
 
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I’m in the process of doing this among other maintenance items. I have some carbon build up in the manifold. I didn’t get a pic but it looks similar to what’s in the ports of the head. Should I try to clean this? Also is it recommended to remove the the throttle body and clean it out?
025ABC8E-EB6D-4FD7-80A9-3B41AA4D3B3A.jpeg
 
@2001LC I didn't read this thread prior to taking on this project. My mistake. However I did blow out a fair amount of debris from around and under the manifold, using compressed air. After I got the manifold removed, there was still quite a bit of sandy dirt in the valley. Should I attempt to clean out any debris that my have gotten in the ports? If so what method is recommended. I was thinking maybe using compressed air in the ports? Thanks in advance
 
I’m in the process of doing this among other maintenance items. I have some carbon build up in the manifold. I didn’t get a pic but it looks similar to what’s in the ports of the head. Should I try to clean this? Also is it recommended to remove the the throttle body and clean it out? View attachment 2441500
That is about the cleanest intake port I've seen. Looks to me to have been cleaned. If your's look like that not much to clean.

Some do clean with gasoline or some solvent like CRC or BG throttle body cleaner. I do not clean the ports of gunk or carbon. As I do not want to drop anything down the ports. I just vacuum out any dust that I may have dropped in. I use 44K, seafoam and others while engine running to clean.

I do like cleaning the throttle body while out. In the 98-02 I do open the butterfly by hand.

I do not like opening the butterfly of the non throttle cable 03-07. I clean thoat of T-body while off the manifold. Then I finish cleaning after assembly. By turning IG key on and hold down gas pedal. That is so, there is no chance I damage electronic throttle controls, by open butterfly by hand.
@2001LC I didn't read this thread prior to taking on this project. My mistake. However I did blow out a fair amount of debris from around and under the manifold, using compressed air. After I got the manifold removed, there was still quite a bit of sandy dirt in the valley. Should I attempt to clean out any debris that my have gotten in the ports? If so what method is recommended. I was thinking maybe using compressed air in the ports? Thanks in advance


Yes, the very best you can.
I use a shop vacuum to clean the area up. I have a set of smaller and smaller hoses I attach, to get into ports and down around valve seats.
 
That is about the cleanest intake port I've seen. Looks to me to have been cleaned. If your's look like that not much to clean.

Some do clean with gasoline or some solvent like CRC or BG throttle body cleaner. I do not clean the ports of gunk or carbon. As I do not want to drop anything down the ports. I just vacuum out any dust that I may have dropped in. I use 44K, seafoam and others while engine running to clean.

I do like cleaning the throttle body while out. In the 98-02 I do open the butterfly by hand.

I do not like opening the butterfly of the non throttle cable 03-07. I clean thoat of T-body while off the manifold. Then I finish cleaning after assembly. By turning IG key on and hold down gas pedal. That is so, there is no chance I damage electronic throttle controls, by open butterfly by hand.



Yes, the very best you can.
I use a shop vacuum to clean the area up. I have a set of smaller and smaller hoses I attach, to get into ports and down around valve seats.
Is it best to remove the throttle body from the manifold for cleaning? Also can you share you vacuum set up? Are you against my idea of just trying to blow anything out of the ports/or combustion chamber, with compressed air? Or only vacuum?
 
I do remove Throttle body. As for one, it reduces weight of intake manifold. I also do not remove water hoses from throttle body. That way I do not need to drain coolant. I also replaced all gaskets!

I do not use compressed air, once intake manifold out. That would blow dust and sand into places I do not want too.

"I have a set of smaller and smaller hoses I attach, to get into ports and down around valve seats." Basically My shop vac hose is too large to fit into intake ports. So I just find old hoses of various sizes around the house/shop/garden. I plug one into the other, until I've tapered down small enough to fit where I need to vacuum.
 
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I do remove Throttle body. As for one, it reduces weight of intake manifold. I also do not remove water hoses from throttle body. That way I do not need to drain coolant. I also replaced all gaskets!

I do not use compressed air, once intake manifold out. That would blow dust and sand into place I do not want too.

"I have a set of smaller and smaller hoses I attach, to get into ports and down around valve seats." Basically My shop vac hose is too large to fit into intake ports. So I just find old hoses of various sizes around the house/shop/graden. I plug one into the other, until I've tapered down small enough to fit where I need to vacuum.
I guess my theory was that if I could get enough compressed air into the chamber, eventually any dirt particles would bounce around enough to finally work their way out. Again theory. I may some hoses I could bottle neck down to get into the port area. Thanks again
 
Blowing ports out with HP air; Dust may stick to oily valves seats & steams, cylinder walls and piston tops. Sand/dust may get lodged in between piston and cylinder walls.

It as bad as running engine with no air filter or just a bad air seal to intake.

Had I open this thread. I edit OP to 1st read in bold print: Clean top of engine very first thing.

I'd also change the tile to 98-02. Or at least note Toyota does not sell contacts and plunger for 03- ;)
 
Has this happened to anyone?
I've followed the OPs instructions and they worked great, up until removal of the starter. When I tried to pull the starter out, it was frozen in the block. The PO didn't put never-seize around the shroud. I tried liquid wrench buy to no avail.
Finally I got a pry bar and was able to pry it off but I ended up cracking the starter and leaving the shroud, that covers the gear, stuck in the mounting hole.
It seems to be made of aluminum. Does anyone have any tips to get it out? Heat? Dremel? Sawzall?

Happened to me. Here is the story and fix.

 
Happened to me. Here is the story and fix.


Thanks for the post. Did you end up getting any pieces into the bellhousing? I might flush it out to be on the safe side.
 
Thanks for the post. Did you end up getting any pieces into the bellhousing? I might flush it out to be on the safe side.

No sir, I plugged the opening with rags while I drilled, ground and knocked the broken piece out. I also stopped periodically during the process to clean up metal shavings to make sure everything stayed clean.
 
So I broke the small black connector on the side of the starter. The locking tab on the housing to be specific. I have ordered the housing. Are there any write ups on how to replace the housing. Most you tube clips of similar connectors show using pushpin, safety pin etc to unlock then change out. Is this the same? Part should be in today at the dealer.

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