1999 LX470 Disaster-Advice Needed (1 Viewer)

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Okay...nothing definitive on the scope...have agreed to getting the motor replaced with a used one...will see what else might come of this as we moved forward...I will be getting the piston and the rod out of the blown up motor.
 
There are a few threads here on the fact that not all 4.7s are created equal. An early Japanese made series 100 4.7 is generally considered a very good one.
 
Okay...nothing definitive on the scope...have agreed to getting the motor replaced with a used one...will see what else might come of this as we moved forward...I will be getting the piston and the rod out of the blown up motor.
You will want to examine the valve faces for that cylinder, and the flywheel.
 
I just want my truck back...and running right...
 
I just want my truck back...and running right...

Understood, but you also need to see the condition of your flexplate and the forward facing surfaces of your torque converter. IF something went down there (and not one of your cylinders/head)...there could be damage in that area.

It will not hurt your case to have as much information and documentation as possible.
 
Understood, but you also need to see the condition of your flexplate and the forward facing surfaces of your torque converter. IF something went down there (and not one of your cylinders/head)...there could be damage in that area.

It will not hurt your case to have as much information and documentation as possible.

IMO this should be done by another shop.
 
There are a few threads here on the fact that not all 4.7s are created equal. An early Japanese made series 100 4.7 is generally considered a very good one.
I've heard that, and I've also heard that a 4.7 from a Tundra is also a very good engine...maybe a bit less $$$$ than an LX version.

Steve
 
If your mechanic didn't take the time to block off the intakes....it would be easy to drop something down one. I would sure want to see the piston and rod from that cylinder.

View attachment 1726885

Oh... I have a sad feeling Mssr Flintknapper has a point...
 
Long block will be ordered on Monday...
 
I may have missed it, but did anyone check to see if the engine was locked up before the starter was changed?
I've seen that exact thing done twice in a shop I worked in years ago.
Mabey this is just a case of the mechanic not wanting to eat the cost of an un-necessary starter replacement. ( and look like a moron!)
 
I may have missed it, but did anyone check to see if the engine was locked up before the starter was changed?
I've seen that exact thing done twice in a shop I worked in years ago.
Mabey this is just a case of the mechanic not wanting to eat the cost of an un-necessary starter replacement. ( and look like a moron!)

Vehicle wouldn't 'start' presumably because of a faulty starter. OP had it towed to mechanics shop.

After the starter was replaced...the mechanic ran the engine ("for 8-10 minutes") before the noise was heard and the engine shut off.

Now...that is not to say that a part of the bendix gear (from the old starter) had not broken off and gone down between the flexplate and engine block. BUT...if that were the case, surely it would have been noticed (missing piece) by the mechanic that removed the starter and once noticed...the prospect of WHERE that part went (if it was not readily retrieved) was considered.

A lot of unanswered questions it seems.
 
Vehicle wouldn't 'start' presumably because of a faulty starter. OP had it towed to mechanics shop.

After the starter was replaced...the mechanic ran the engine ("for 8-10 minutes") before the noise was heard and the engine shut off.
That's what I mean, Click of the solenoid can be other things besides a bad starter.
What I was getting at was that a locked up engine will just click like a dead starter. Maybe the mechanic thru a new starter on it with out actually diagnosing it, then discovered the locked up engine and is trying to cover the cost of the and starter labor by saying he actually had the engine running after the starter install before it blew.
 
The engine did run...it was still warm when I got there...and the fact that it pushed a rod through the oil pan is not lost on me. We ordered a used motor and will begin the replacement on Monday...Here is a pic of the starter...the housing broke upon removal. @flintknapper, yes, tons of unanswered questions. Once the motor is out, I will take a look inside the cylinders...hopefully that will shed some light on the situation. I am still not too happy about the motor being blown up...so I just have to grin and bear it. I guess IF there a silver lining...it makes baselining the new engine easy...

IMG_1235.JPG
 
The engine did run...it was still warm when I got there...and the fact that it pushed a rod through the oil pan is not lost on me. We ordered a used motor and will begin the replacement on Monday...Here is a pic of the starter...the housing broke upon removal. @flintknapper, yes, tons of unanswered questions. Once the motor is out, I will take a look inside the cylinders...hopefully that will shed some light on the situation. I am still not too happy about the motor being blown up...so I just have to grin and bear it. I guess IF there a silver lining...it makes baselining the new engine easy...

View attachment 1729498
Yes, order up a timing belt kit and do that before you stab the replacement!
 
Someone 'pried' on the nose of that starter and the housing broke. It is a 'fresh' break as evidenced by the clean metal.

So much about this...that isn't right.
 
Someone 'pried' on the nose of that starter and the housing broke. It is a 'fresh' break as evidenced by the clean metal.

So much about this...that isn't right.

This picture of the starter tells a thousand words. I don't remember having to pry it out when replacing. Shard in cylinder, is my bet.
 
First thing to do when that motor arrives at the shop is put a bar on the crank balancer nut and make sure it turns freely. Before they even take it off the delivery truck!

Edit: make sure the new motor spins a full 360° at least.
 
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