Oh wow you removed a lot of material from the combustion chamber! Are you going with a piston with less dish? Did you by chance measure them before and after??
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I think it just looks like I removed a lot from the picture but I actually didn't do any grinding on the chamber just buffed it with 320 grit. I started to use a angle grinder with a flat disc for a few seconds but after I noticed it put a couple little nicks in the metal I stopped and just decided to buff it. All the material on the bench is from the ports mainly intake, the exhaust was already a perfect fit to the new gaskets.Oh wow you removed a lot of material from the combustion chamber! Are you going with a piston with less dish? Did you by chance measure them before and after??
Sweet! I've been studying that diagram getting ready to do the same. Looks like you got the deluxe kit, a good idea I think. Shouldn't be too bad.Oh yeah this looks like a lot of fun!
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I think I would like to try to tune it myself. Unfortunately there isn't a AWD dyno close by so I will get it dialed in as much as possible then probably take it to the dyno which is an hour and a half away.Are you going to tune it on your own, or take it to a shop?
That is a really big leap forward in the aftermarket ecu world. Good to hear.It is much much easier to tune with VE and the auto tuning the new Haltechs have. You will be fine to road tune!
Oh yeah this looks like a lot of fun!
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So after a bit of research and going over the factory electrical diagram and matching everything up this is what I came up with.
I do have a few unresolved questions I'm hoping to get some feedback on.
1. Will the knock sensors both still operate correctly off the factory ECM because I do not see how that would work with the Haltech.
2. According to the Haltech wiring instructions the R/Y wire from the fuse block goes to the ignition coil positive and the R/L wire goes to supply power to the injectors. According to the factory wiring diagram the injectors and coil are on the same circuit B/R wire which also feeds the igniter. So I am guessing I just use one of the two Haltech wires to power the entire circuit.
3. On the throttle position sensor there is a Pin labeled IDL1 but on the Haltech there is only the standard positive, ground and signal wires. Do I need to hook up the IDL1?
4. With the new system I will be using a single wideband O2 sensor and will eliminate the post cat 02 sensor. I am assuming I will get a CEL due to this but since the factory ECM will not be controlling engine anymore this should not be an issue.
5. The Haltech has closed loop Idle speed control built-in with self learning. I am not sure how that works with the factory Idle air control valve as there is no where to hook the wires up to the new system. Plug E4-A pins 4-7.
6. On the igniter I have the IGT signal being controlled by the Haltech #1 ignition driver. With the factory igniter it has the IGF signal going back to the ECM to let it know it has spark. Since I am pulling the IGT signal away from the factory ECM and giving it to the Haltech I am assuming I can ignore the IGF signal as the igniter will be controlled by the Haltech.
7. On the crankshaft positioning sensor the signal is the NE signal. I have the signal wire which is plug E6-B pin 5 wire color BR going to the Haltech pin 31 Y. I also noticed that in the distributor there is a white wire with the NE signal and wanted to make sure that is not the wire I need. Also in the distributor where I am picking up the cam position signal G1 there is a second cam position sensor signal G2 and not sure if I need that.
8. According to the Haltech wiring for the crank and cam sensors there is a cam+ & cam- as well as a signal ground. Same with the crank, not sure what the difference is between the sensor ground and the signal ground.
I will be calling Haltech tomorrow to hopefully get some of these questions answered.
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Ryan, thanks for the input.Let me see if I can help with a few of these.
1) The stock knock sensors will still work, you can still use the Scangauge to read them, but they will not be able to do anything as far as retarding timing. I believe only the Haltech 2500 allows standalone knock sensors.
2) So since you have a distributor and are not firing individual coils (unless you want to make that change) you are only required to power the single coil on our truck and it will still fire the plugs via the distributor.
3) I can not answered this question I do not remember how we hooked up the TPS, I don't think there were any issues.
4) Correct this is not an issue you will be getting your accurate data from the wideband O2, so the narrow band is just plugging a hole in the exhaust.
5) I left the stock IAC valve in place and let it control the idle.
6) I think you will need to feed this back to the ECU so it can get RPM?
7) I would have to pull apart my interior to look at the wiring harness. sorry.
8) I know you can trigger off both + and - so I think you just need to pick one and stick with it.
Hopefully Haltech can give you some good pointers!